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DB25 Soldering Tips?
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Fishy1500
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#31
26th February 2009
Old 26th February 2009
  #31
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How do you guys usually go about handling the silvery drain wire and the copper shielding? Do you just wrap them together then solder them to the respective db25 ground pin?

Also, I was just wondering where you guys typically go to buy metal hoods for your db25 connectors?
#32
12th April 2009
Old 12th April 2009
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I'm glad I found this post. I was just calculating the cost for the new studio wiring (converters, console, patchbay etc) I suddenly realized I had overlooked the sub-D 25 connectors. As someone else mentioned, the mogami premade ones are ridiculously expensive! Fortunately for me I only have to make 8 sub-D snakes for the converters. The only problem is I haven't done it before..
I can solder fine but the crimping idea sounds nice. I'll have to see if I can find the parts in my area though..
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#33
13th April 2009
Old 13th April 2009
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By the number of people in this thread agreeing that it's difficult and time consuming, you can make a fair assessment over whether it's a good use of your time vs. money.

My best trick is to avoid dealing with the DB25 end entirely. Buy a snake that's twice as long as you need, and has DB25 on both ends. Cut it in half. Solder XLR or TRS connectors onto the cut ends as necessary, and be done. You now have two DB25-XLR or DB25-TRS snakes.

This will save you a lot of money over buying fully assembled snakes, but won't be a gigantic pain in the ass like terminating your own DB25s is.
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#34
13th April 2009
Old 13th April 2009
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by ulysses View Post
By the number of people in this thread agreeing that it's difficult and time consuming, you can make a fair assessment over whether it's a good use of your time vs. money.

My best trick is to avoid dealing with the DB25 end entirely. Buy a snake that's twice as long as you need, and has DB25 on both ends. Cut it in half. Solder XLR or TRS connectors onto the cut ends as necessary, and be done. You now have two DB25-XLR or DB25-TRS snakes.

This will save you a lot of money over buying fully assembled snakes, but won't be a gigantic pain in the ass like terminating your own DB25s is.
Thanks ulysses, that is a good tip. However, it's still 600 bucks for 3 20ft D-sub to D-sub. I'm going to diy all the mogami cables for the console, patch bay and a bunch of mic cables (by soldering) I might as well do the 6 D-subs' too. I only have to do 6, not 20 like another poster. 600 bucks is like 1/3 of the cabling budget. I don't mind trying it out. (I also have plenty of time on my hands as the studio is another 6/7 months from opening)

@ the other posters
I'm sure I can figure it out but I would like to see some pictures of DIY'd D-sub's that people here did.
#35
14th April 2009
Old 14th April 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HookedOnHardware View Post
I'm sure I can figure it out but I would like to see some pictures of DIY'd D-sub's that people here did.
Here 'ya go. Some of my "roll your own" cabling.
Attached Thumbnails
DB25 Soldering Tips?-ext4.jpg   DB25 Soldering Tips?-db25int4.jpg  
#36
14th April 2009
Old 14th April 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HookedOnHardware View Post
Thanks ulysses, that is a good tip. However, it's still 600 bucks for 3 20ft D-sub to D-sub. I'm going to diy all the mogami cables for the console, patch bay and a bunch of mic cables (by soldering) I might as well do the 6 D-subs' too. I only have to do 6, not 20 like another poster. 600 bucks is like 1/3 of the cabling budget. I don't mind trying it out. (I also have plenty of time on my hands as the studio is another 6/7 months from opening)

@ the other posters
I'm sure I can figure it out but I would like to see some pictures of DIY'd D-sub's that people here did.
Yeah its $600 because the cost of the Mogami cable is $540 of it!! Really, its the cost of the cable itself, not the cost of the connectors. Doing the "cut the db25 cable" is a GREAT way to go!!!!
#37
14th April 2009
Old 14th April 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyt View Post
Yeah its $600 because the cost of the Mogami cable is $540 of it!! Really, its the cost of the cable itself, not the cost of the connectors. Doing the "cut the db25 cable" is a GREAT way to go!!!!
I also think the cutting the cable in half is a brilliant solution. If I had to make a lot of DB25 cabling I'd certainly look into that.
Here's my normal cost structure:
I watch Ebay and stock up on Mogami snake cable when it comes up at a good price. Very handy for making cabling when I need it. For three 20 ft DB25 cables it would cost me less than $60 in Mogami (I pay $3 ft max incl. shipping for 24 pair, often way less. Once got all the Mogami out of a closing studio for $100, about 200ft). Probably $9 for the DB25's and let's say $60 for 24 xlrs. Add in $5 for shrink and solder and another $25 for whatever I've overlooked and it totals around $160. That leaves $440 for my labor.
I wouldn't say mine are as rugged as ones made by a regular supplier so I don't think you'd want to have roadies tugging on them but for in house use they have never failed and the savings helps me keep my bottom line a lot healthier.
Besides, it's sorta a meditative thing to get into rollin' yer own.
#38
14th April 2009
Old 14th April 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyt View Post
Yeah its $600 because the cost of the Mogami cable is $540 of it!! Really, its the cost of the cable itself, not the cost of the connectors. Doing the "cut the db25 cable" is a GREAT way to go!!!!
True, doing it DIY would save me about a 100 bucks but I would learn how to properly solder a sub-d connector. I've learned how to do everything from soundproofing to room measurements so this would just add on to my knowledge. I might do the cut in half but I would like to at least attempt it once
Thanks again for the tip.
#39
14th April 2009
Old 14th April 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HookedOnHardware
Thanks ulysses, that is a good tip. However, it's still 600 bucks for 3 20ft D-sub to D-sub.
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyt
Yeah its $600 because the cost of the Mogami cable is $540 of it!! Really, its the cost of the cable itself, not the cost of the connectors. Doing the "cut the db25 cable" is a GREAT way to go!!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by HookedOnHardware View Post
True, doing it DIY would save me about a 100 bucks but I would learn how to properly solder a sub-d connector. I've learned how to do everything from soundproofing to room measurements so this would just add on to my knowledge. I might do the cut in half but I would like to at least attempt it once
Thanks again for the tip.
I'm having a heck of a time figuring out everybody's math here. Are we talking db25 connectors here? If so, 3x20ft=60ft of Mogami and at $2.56/ft (Markertek) that is $153.60 for the cable. What am I missing here?
#40
14th April 2009
Old 14th April 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Sutton View Post
I'm having a heck of a time figuring out everybody's math here. Are we talking db25 connectors here? If so, 3x20ft=60ft of Mogami and at $2.56/ft (Markertek) that is $153.60 for the cable. What am I missing here?
x 6 for my needs (A 30 foot mogami sub-d to sub-d was 200 bucks on a website I found. Three of those to convert into 6 15 foot sub-d/jacks would be 600 for the bunch)
#41
14th April 2009
Old 14th April 2009
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I guess my question is why you'd be using Mogami for an installed snake in a studio environment. Mogami is expensive cable because it's a specialized cable. It's made to be very limp and flexible. That's great for stage use, and out in the studio room where you want cables to lie flat so your clients don't trip over them. Behind your equipment racks it serves no useful purpose at all. I suspect people use it because they've somehow gotten the impression that Mogami cable is a premium cable with some intangible betterness as compared to other brands of cable. Rather than looking at the brand name, I'd suggest you compare cable based on the fairly straightforward performance parameters. Bulk resistance and bulk capacitance, shield coverage and style, insulation material (which affects what it does while you're soldering), and price should all be considered along with cable assembly stiffness. To the best of my knowledge, most electrons are still illiterate so it really doesn't matter what name is screenprinted on the cable jacket as they pass by. I'm partial to Belden cable because they're very straightforward about performance data instead and don't try to sell snake oil. They also make some very good cable.
#42
15th April 2009
Old 15th April 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ulysses View Post
I guess my question is why you'd be using Mogami for an installed snake in a studio environment.
Hi Justin,
For me the reason is that it is the easiest cable that I found to work with, that still sounds good, and over the years I've collected the tools and techniques that suit my way of working. It's as much about comfort factor as anything. Others prefer Belden etc but everytime I have tried something else I always return to Mogami. For some perspective, I've been doing this for over 40 years and the first twenty I must have used dozens of different wire types, companies, specs etc and when I settled on Mogami about twenty years ago life at the old soldering station just got a whole lot better.
Cheers, Rick
#43
15th April 2009
Old 15th April 2009
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The most important factors are that you can solder it easily without destroying it, and that it doesn't break while you're using it. So use what you're comfortable with.
#44
15th April 2009
Old 15th April 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ulysses View Post
I guess my question is why you'd be using Mogami for an installed snake in a studio environment. Mogami is expensive cable because it's a specialized cable. It's made to be very limp and flexible. That's great for stage use, and out in the studio room where you want cables to lie flat so your clients don't trip over them. Behind your equipment racks it serves no useful purpose at all. I suspect people use it because they've somehow gotten the impression that Mogami cable is a premium cable with some intangible betterness as compared to other brands of cable. Rather than looking at the brand name, I'd suggest you compare cable based on the fairly straightforward performance parameters. Bulk resistance and bulk capacitance, shield coverage and style, insulation material (which affects what it does while you're soldering), and price should all be considered along with cable assembly stiffness. To the best of my knowledge, most electrons are still illiterate so it really doesn't matter what name is screenprinted on the cable jacket as they pass by. I'm partial to Belden cable because they're very straightforward about performance data instead and don't try to sell snake oil. They also make some very good cable.

It's an obvious answer: Because all the pro's use it!!

I'm kidding of course. I don't like people inplying about just going for name though. Everyone does to some extent but not just because it says Mogami. For me there are several reasons, I like mogami. I always get Asus motherboards because I know and trust them. I always get Samsung tft screens because I know and trust them. The list could go on.
In addition, I'm completely wiring a new studio. I'd rather do it the way I want it the first time as opposed to going a bit cheaper but wanting to upgrade later to suit my preferences.
Regarding the cost: I'm spending about 40k of the available budget worth of stuff (mostly outboard gear, monitors, cables etc) at a single distrubutor. They are going to give me a sweet discount because of that. After substracting the discount from the original amount spent, I'm basically getting the mogami cables and some gear for free which suits me just fine.
#45
15th April 2009
Old 15th April 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyt View Post
Yeah its $600 because the cost of the Mogami cable is $540 of it!! Really, its the cost of the cable itself, not the cost of the connectors. Doing the "cut the db25 cable" is a GREAT way to go!!!!
The ready made db25's don't seem to be available at the distributor I'm getting the cabling from (already limited in my area). They only sell mogami cable by the meter. It's fine. I'll buy a few extra plugs to practice with. I have enough time on my hands before it has to be done.
#46
19th May 2009
Old 19th May 2009
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Very helpful thread

Thanks everybody this thread has helped me as I am getting ready to do a huge project for a new studio. The guy is insisting on hand made cables. I have been making his cables for a long time and he refuses to use anything else. So he needs 25 different cables with the DB25 on one end and some of them with it on both ends. I have worked with 9 and 15 pin connectors before so I am pretty confident I can do this no problem but I know it will be a pain in the butt to say the least. So my main question is which DB25 connector is the best to use for hand made audio cables?

Thanks!
#47
20th May 2009
Old 20th May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solderfumes View Post
Thanks everybody this thread has helped me as I am getting ready to do a huge project for a new studio. The guy is insisting on hand made cables. I have been making his cables for a long time and he refuses to use anything else. So he needs 25 different cables with the DB25 on one end and some of them with it on both ends. I have worked with 9 and 15 pin connectors before so I am pretty confident I can do this no problem but I know it will be a pain in the butt to say the least. So my main question is which DB25 connector is the best to use for hand made audio cables?

Thanks!
Welcome to GS.

My reply probably won't be too helpful (in terms of being specific) but any DB25 gold connector should be fine. You might come across certain brands if looking for a specific type e.g. a crimp able connector.
Then again, what do I know
#48
20th May 2009
Old 20th May 2009
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Guys, I ordered a couple of these premium DB25-->XLR fans from these guys on EBay and it turns out they do really good work. I checked the soldering and it's first rate. I ended up ordering 15 DB25 cables total from them. Could save you some time if you didn't want to buy the crimper and go that route:

eBay Store – Pro Audio LA So Nice Cables: Search results for.

Jared & Jason at Pro Audio LA. proaudiola@gmail.com

Email them Jared or Jason directly if you want to avoid the EBay fee overhead. Great guys to deal with. thumbsup

Spindrift

#49
20th May 2009
Old 20th May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spindrift View Post
Guys, I ordered a couple of these premium DB25-->XLR fans from these guys on EBay and it turns out they do really good work. I checked the soldering and it's first rate. I ended up ordering 15 DB25 cables total from them. Could save you some time if you didn't want to buy the crimper and go that route:

eBay Store – Pro Audio LA So Nice Cables: Search results for.

Jared & Jason at Pro Audio LA. proaudiola@gmail.com

Email them Jared or Jason directly if you want to avoid the EBay fee overhead. Great guys to deal with. thumbsup

Spindrift

Affiliated?
#50
20th May 2009
Old 20th May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HookedOnHardware View Post
Affiliated?
Actually, no. Just like to help the little guys out.

You know, rewarding the smaller entrepreneuring types who are trying to make a go of it.
#51
20th May 2009
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Quote:
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Actually, no. Just like to help the little guys out.

You know, rewarding the smaller entrepreneuring types who are trying to make a go of it.
No prob. Just checking
#52
21st May 2009
Old 21st May 2009
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Just to repeat what has been suggested before. If you are using crimp connections or screw-capture type connections (ie: Phoenix or Banana) DO NOT pre-tin the cables. Over time, movement and vibration will compress the solder and leave you with a loose connection. Go ahead, ask me how I know. :-)
#53
21st May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HookedOnHardware View Post
No prob. Just checking
Believe me, the gear-peddlers on here are thick and it makes sense to check.

Here's a pic of my rack wired up from another thread:

Separating AC Power from Mic Pre Rack...(Image)

Last edited by Spindrift; 21st May 2009 at 04:27 AM.. Reason: Added link
#54
31st May 2009
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Which DB-25 connectors (Brands) do you find reliable and easy to assemble?
#55
8th June 2009
Old 8th June 2009
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Consider buying a long db25 to dbs25 snake then chopping it in half. These snakes are inexpensive due to the fact that there are only 2 connectors. Solder xlrs to the chopped ends and you have 2 snakes for less than the price of 1 dsub to xlr snake. Hand soldering xlrs is an easily accomplished and reliable connection, but those dsub ends are another story.

Jon Erickson
#56
8th June 2009
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#57
9th June 2009
Old 9th June 2009
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Its a bad, dark picture, and I haven't shrunk the last of the shrink tubing yet... but unfortunately the only pic I took - I'll try to snap some more (and closer) pics later.

In the process of doing a ton of DB25s (on Mogami). I'm soldering them, no crimping. ::knock on wood:: The soldering has been going really well and very quickly; no bent pins, no problems with continuity, no "leaks" between any adjacent leads, strain relief is fitting nicely, I'm not forgetting to slide shrink tubing on the cable before I start soldering hah.... that always stinks...

For the record - I have been ordering from Redco (whom I am very happy with). I am saving hundreds of dollars by buying bulk cable and connectors and soldering myself, rather than buying double length and cutting in half. Let's say I need two 25 foot, 24-channel Mogami snakes with 3 DSUBs on one side of each (blunt on the other). I'd have to buy a 50 foot snake with DB25's on either end - that's $670. To buy 50 foot of 24 channel snake by itself, its $375, and the DSUBs are a few bucks a piece.
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#58
9th June 2009
Old 9th June 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smithcok View Post
Let's say I need two 25 foot, 24-channel Mogami snakes with 3 DSUBs on one side of each (blunt on the other). I'd have to buy a 50 foot snake with DB25's on either end - that's $670. To buy 50 foot of 24 channel snake by itself, its $180, and the DSUBs are a few bucks a piece.
I don't understand the math. On the Redco site Mogami 24 channel snake is listed at $7.50 per foot. 50 feet would be $375. Still a saving but the $180 is closer to the price that I pick up used Mogami for .
#59
9th June 2009
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^^Yes I graduated 4th grade Math... with a D-

Corrected!
Yeah, savings of a few hundred, not 80% off

Further edit - I figured out what my brain did - I multiplied $7.50 by the number of channels... 24... instead of the length of 50
#60
9th June 2009
Old 9th June 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smithcok View Post
Its a bad, dark picture, and I haven't shrunk the last of the shrink tubing yet... but unfortunately the only pic I took - I'll try to snap some more (and closer) pics later...
I tweaked your picture and uploaded a brighter image to your post for you.
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