Audio snakes: outer housing.

max cooper · 2nd July 2005, 04:43 PM

I'm making some sets of D-SUB/XLR cables for my Apogees, and I'm wondering what the standard ways of wrapping the cables are. I'm guessing that rubber housing used on audio snakes is manufactured around the inner cables; otherwise I don't see how you could get the cables through. I've tried big heat shrink
tubing, but it wrinkles too much; unless there's something other than the 3M stuff that stays pliable after it's been shrunk.

I really don't want to put zip-ties every couple of feet.

paully · 2nd July 2005, 10:56 PM

Hey Max,

How long is the snake, how many cables, and approximate inside diameter needed? If it's out of sight, tie straps ain't a bad deal. Our drummer had a cymbal stand come loose, go over, and cut cleanly through a 24 channel snake, taking out 6 or 8 cables. That was the expensive end of that 'enclosed' snake. Heat shrink all pretty much shrivels, and doesn't look to good. Don't rule out things like (flexible) garden hose; tough and relatively cheap. Empty BX wire casing (Greenfield) can be had in various diameters at Home Depot, etc. It also makes for a secondary shield. Contact cable manufacturers like Belden to get a line on slightly oversized casing that you can pull through. Tell them what your doing. They can be very helpful if your humble

. Good luck, Paul

max cooper · 4th July 2005, 05:30 AM

Yeah, you're right. Having the capability to replace a line is nice. Thanks!

brianroth · 4th July 2005, 08:58 AM

If you don't want to use ty-raps, you can always make up some short lengths of shrink tubing and use them in lieu of ty-raps.

I did that with some of the tiny leads from a P&G fader recently:

http://members.cox.net/brianaroth/IMG_0726.JPG

Bri

paully · 4th July 2005, 08:05 PM

Max,

If you want real casing, consider heat shrink that is a little oversized, so that you can snake/pull the wire bundle through. Then leave the tubing unshrunk(is that a word?). Should look great, plus chemical resistance. You have to know the approximate maximum diameter of the bundle. Practice on something like copper tubing that you can measure the ID of. Then take a look here for choices.

SITE: http://www.seacoastheatshrink.com/

The black flexible stuff looks nice. Just buy oversized, and don't bother shrinking. If problems develop, you can always pull the bad wire and snake a new one!

PRODUCTS: http://www.seacoastheatshrink.com/pmhtfrinfo.html

Good luck, Paul

max cooper · 6th July 2005, 04:16 PM

Paul:

Great link; my head's spinning!

I think I'm going to have to call these guys about this. From the looks of their product listing, some of their tubing ought to shrink down to a more flexible material.

I did a little experiment with flattening out the heat shrink and snipping little openings on each of the 'folds'. Seems to make the tubing more flexible.

Cheers!
max

tINY · 6th July 2005, 08:12 PM

If you want it to look good, you can get the expandable braided sleeving and ty-wrap the ends. It's usually made of polyester and gives a great finish to cables that you want protected and looking sharp.

http://cableorganizer.com/braided-sleeving/
http://www.cablemarkers.com/braimain.htm
http://www.nelcoproducts.com/shoppin...dable+Sleeving

-tINY

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2nd July 2005, 04:43 PM	#1
max cooper Lives for gear Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: tx Posts: 8,819	Audio snakes: outer housing. I'm making some sets of D-SUB/XLR cables for my Apogees, and I'm wondering what the standard ways of wrapping the cables are. I'm guessing that rubber housing used on audio snakes is manufactured around the inner cables; otherwise I don't see how you could get the cables through. I've tried big heat shrink tubing, but it wrinkles too much; unless there's something other than the 3M stuff that stays pliable after it's been shrunk. I really don't want to put zip-ties every couple of feet.

4th July 2005, 08:58 AM	#4
brianroth Lives for gear Join Date: May 2005 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 1,022	If you don't want to use ty-raps, you can always make up some short lengths of shrink tubing and use them in lieu of ty-raps. I did that with some of the tiny leads from a P&G fader recently: http://members.cox.net/brianaroth/IMG_0726.JPG Bri __________________ Brian Roth Technical Services Oklahoma City, OK www.BrianRoth.com

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2nd July 2005, 10:56 PM	#2
paully Lives for gear Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Northern New Jersey Posts: 535	Hey Max, How long is the snake, how many cables, and approximate inside diameter needed? If it's out of sight, tie straps ain't a bad deal. Our drummer had a cymbal stand come loose, go over, and cut cleanly through a 24 channel snake, taking out 6 or 8 cables. That was the expensive end of that 'enclosed' snake. Heat shrink all pretty much shrivels, and doesn't look to good. Don't rule out things like (flexible) garden hose; tough and relatively cheap. Empty BX wire casing (Greenfield) can be had in various diameters at Home Depot, etc. It also makes for a secondary shield. Contact cable manufacturers like Belden to get a line on slightly oversized casing that you can pull through. Tell them what your doing. They can be very helpful if your humble . Good luck, Paul

4th July 2005, 05:30 AM	#3
max cooper Lives for gear Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: tx Posts: 8,819	Yeah, you're right. Having the capability to replace a line is nice. Thanks!

4th July 2005, 08:05 PM	#5
paully Lives for gear Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Northern New Jersey Posts: 535	Max, If you want real casing, consider heat shrink that is a little oversized, so that you can snake/pull the wire bundle through. Then leave the tubing unshrunk(is that a word?). Should look great, plus chemical resistance. You have to know the approximate maximum diameter of the bundle. Practice on something like copper tubing that you can measure the ID of. Then take a look here for choices. SITE: http://www.seacoastheatshrink.com/ The black flexible stuff looks nice. Just buy oversized, and don't bother shrinking. If problems develop, you can always pull the bad wire and snake a new one! PRODUCTS: http://www.seacoastheatshrink.com/pmhtfrinfo.html Good luck, Paul

6th July 2005, 04:16 PM	#6
max cooper Lives for gear Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: tx Posts: 8,819	Paul: Great link; my head's spinning! I think I'm going to have to call these guys about this. From the looks of their product listing, some of their tubing ought to shrink down to a more flexible material. I did a little experiment with flattening out the heat shrink and snipping little openings on each of the 'folds'. Seems to make the tubing more flexible. Cheers! max

6th July 2005, 08:12 PM	#7
tINY Lives for gear Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Orygun Posts: 5,847	If you want it to look good, you can get the expandable braided sleeving and ty-wrap the ends. It's usually made of polyester and gives a great finish to cables that you want protected and looking sharp. http://cableorganizer.com/braided-sleeving/ http://www.cablemarkers.com/braimain.htm http://www.nelcoproducts.com/shoppin...dable+Sleeving -tINY