![]() | All Advertisers |
| Member Services Directory | Classifieds | Reviews | Jobs | Deal Zone | Merchandise | Marketplace | Books, DVDs & Gadgets | Video Vault | Tips & Techniques |
| |||||||
New Reply | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| | #1 |
| Gear nut | Newb Q: solder won't adhere to switch case I have replaced a DPDT coil cut/phase reversal switch on a guitar circuit in an old guitar. On the old switch, the common ground wire connects to one of the poles but was also soldered to the side of the switch before continuing on to another DPDT switch. Currently, I have the 20 guage common ground wire bent in such a way that contact is made to the side of the switch, but I can't get the solder to stick to the outside of the switch. While I have succesfully been soldering for the last 2 weeks, and have come up to speed on tinning, cleaning the tip etc with my brand new Hakko 936, I don't yet have any flux paste. Will applying flux paste to the casing of the switch help the solder stick? I've already made sure the casing is clean (scrubbed a bit with sandpaper). What's the common solution when you run into an alloy that simply won't adhere to solder, and which you don't want to overheat due to fear of damaging the internal components? Is Flux the answer? Is there a kind of flux that is recommended for soldering to audio trim pot casings? (like would acid based be best for this scenario, whereas non-acid base types would be safer for boards). Lastly, any recommendations on a good tip for larger soldering jobs such as this (like cables, etc), where large dollups of solder are required? Recommended shape and diameter? I'm sure I'd be fine just getting a bigger tip based on the hakko site's recommendation, but knowing what people use and find practical would be helpful. thanks |
| | |
| | #2 |
| Gear Guru Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Orygun
Posts: 10,206
| It won't stick because it's not getting hot enough. Sometimes flux paste helps, but not by much. Get the bigger tip, and heat up the case until the solder flows. The reason that it doesn't heat up as well is because the back of a pot is a pretty good heat sink - so, it cools down quickly to. -tINY |
| | |
| | #3 |
| Gear nut | Thanks Tiny. I'm off to Fry's tomorrow. |
| | |
| | #4 |
| Gear Guru Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Orygun
Posts: 10,206
| Have fun in Willsonville... -tINY |
| | |
| | #5 |
| Gear maniac Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: MD
Posts: 174
| Also make sure the area is clean. Especially if you've "greased" it up by touching and rubbing the area too much with your hands. |
| | |
| | #6 |
| Gear nut | yeah I ran into the finger grease issue already... RS's helping hands are great for that. so is rubbing alchohol, sandpaper and a metal file. I need a mask though... despite more than adequate ventilation, it seems like rosin really makes my allergies go nuts. |
| | |
New Reply
Facebook
Twitter
LinkedIn
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| What Solder to use? | johnjm22 | Geekslutz forum | 11 | 31st August 2006 10:52 AM |
| Cut and Solder a midas Board??? | kurtr2 | High end | 4 | 21st October 2005 04:16 AM |
| How would I solder this kind of cable...? | altoidboy | Geekslutz forum | 3 | 1st April 2005 11:46 PM |
| Solder | A Fak | High end | 2 | 30th January 2005 05:05 PM |
| What solder to get? | Wally Joe | So much gear, so little time! | 10 | 14th January 2004 10:38 PM |
| |