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| | #1 |
| Lives for gear Joined: May 2005 Location: Tennesse Valley, AL
Posts: 706
Thread Starter |
Why do some suggest building with Steel enclosures rather than aluminum? Other than the cost, is there another reason? Thanks, Andrew Hull |
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| | #2 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2006 Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 2,065
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I used in my amps aluminum screens to reflect IR rays from toobs, they also serve as hard ribs, the result is lighter construction to carry from a concert to a concert. Steel is a magnetic material, so it may be used when magnetics feelds needs to be taken in mind. It all depends on physics laws, nobody yet invented some that sir Isaac Newton had labeled.
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| | #3 |
| Lives for gear Joined: May 2005 Location: Tennesse Valley, AL
Posts: 706
Thread Starter |
Thanks! So, if the unit in question needed to house a transformer, i.e. power or otherwise, I'd be safer going with steel, to control external/inernal magnetic interference. Otherwise, for simple summing, or switching, aluminum would be fine. Thank you again for the reply. |
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| | #4 |
| Lives for gear |
Consider this; Mu Metal is used in the High end transformers for its superior magnetic rejection and contains around 15% steel, far better than 100% steel and far more expensive. Copper wire is used for sheilding and works very good. Steel is far cheaper than aluminum and 3 times the weight... I use aluminum on all my rack and supply enclosures. Sheilding is all about design,layout ect... |
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| | #5 |
| Lives for gear Joined: May 2005 Location: Tennesse Valley, AL
Posts: 706
Thread Starter |
thanks JMK! I am familiar with your work, my boss really likes your pres. Thank you for clearing that up a little bit, I'm just a noob to this stuff, and trying to walk before I crawl... ![]() I'm taking some formal courses right now, but I'm a looooonnnng way off from understanding a lot of this stuff. Thanks again for your input, it is very much appreciated. Andrew Hull |
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| | #6 | |
| Lives for gear | Quote:
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| | #7 |
| Lives for gear Joined: May 2005 Location: Tennesse Valley, AL
Posts: 706
Thread Starter |
Johnny Sandlin
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| | #8 |
| Lives for gear |
You can drill/rivet alumiunum easier.
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| | #9 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Mar 2003 Location: Minneapolis and Wiesbaden
Posts: 1,452
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Aluminum is lighter, much easier to machine, and it won't rust even if you leave it unfinished. But it also costs more and won't provide the magnetic shielding that steel does. Steel is much stronger and heavier for a given thickness, costs less per pound, and provides magnetic shielding advantages. But it's also far more difficult to machine, prone to corrosion and more difficult to apply a professional-looking finish. In our passive summing device, we use a steel chassis primarily because of the shielding properties and for ruggedness. But we also like that it adds heft to a rather small and light box. It feels good. This chassis is cut with a laser, folded and welded with industrial machines. We don't have to worry about ease of machining. The powdercoated finish protects it from corrosion. Our first four prototypes were machined by me, and I used aluminum. For DIY projects aluminum is the way to go, absolutely. The ease of machining is by far the highest concern.
__________________ Justin Ulysses Morse Roll Music Systems Minneapolis, MN Put a bottle of juice in your Lunchbox. |
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| | #10 |
| Lives for gear |
As far as strength goes depends on what type of aluminum. 7075 is stronger than some steel yet is still 1/3 the weight. I prefer aluminum for machining over steel any day. Yes it will not rust... |
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| | #11 |
| Lives for gear | |
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| | #12 | |
| Lives for gear Joined: May 2005 Location: Tennesse Valley, AL
Posts: 706
Thread Starter | Quote:
Thanks for the additional info guys! | |
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