Originally Posted by r0ck1r0ck2
anyone have any advice on this...
got a banging voltage convertor..
now i'm faced with converting the cycles per second..
for these eventasp8's and this lynx aurora..probably a few other things as well..
funny..the apogee rosetta will have no troubles with the hz change whatsoever...
as does my old gibson skylark..
so a 40+ yr old device will handle the hz better than a 4yr old device..
A quick word about what this is about.
In conventional power supplies, the mains is rectified (that means the negative parts of the main cycle are flipped over to become positive). This gives 50 or 60 positive pulses per second. These pulses are used to charge up capacitors that store the charge between top ups. If you put a 'scope on the capacitor, you will see a sawtooth waveform that shows the top of the pulse, then the voltage diminishing as the current is drawn by the unit.
If the PSU is a wallwart, it might have only the transformer in it. Or it might have the rectifier and capacitors as well. Or it might even have a voltage stabiliser in it that removes the sawtooth ripple before it gets into the following gear.
Two different problems can arise in changing from 60Hz to 50Hz.
1 The number of pulses per second decreases. If the gear draws constant current, then the transformer must deliver more current on each 50Hz pulse than it would at 60Hz. Under-rated transformers can get hot coping with this. You can tell but measuring the temperature on the transformer if you are going to get a problem. Your finger should do. But don't kill yourself in the process by touching the mains power terminals.
2 On the capacitor, the voltage dip will get deeper at the bottom of each cycle, since current is flowing out of it for longer. This increases the ripple. The result can be that it becomes more audible. Your ears can test for that.
The capacitor can get stressed. You nose will tell you that one, though your finger might give a warning. There might also be a resistor in the way somewhere that gets a bit warmer than designed for.
The stabilising circuit that follows might find that the voltage coming in drops below the voltage planned to go out. So ripple appears on the output of the stabilised supply. While this won't usually break the gear, the resulting noise might want to make you bin it.
The ear test will give you instant feedback. The finger test needs a few minutes for heat to build up, but power can be removed before self-destruction begins.
Try these to see if you really need to do anything to make the gear run at 50Hz.fuuck