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| | #1 |
| Gear maniac Joined: Aug 2006 Location: DC Megalopolis
Posts: 232
Thread Starter | Replacing Tascam VU Meter Bulbs?
Specifically the large style ones, like in a 122 Cassette deck. I've had a lot of Tascam gear with large VU's, but never had to replace a bulb, but last weekend one went out in my 122 deck. Yeah who uses a cassette deck anymore, right? Well it makes for nice looking rack porn so I'd like to fix it. Also - my BR-20T has similiar meters so I'd probably just buy 4 - 6 bulbs for later on in case the ones on the BR-20T went out. Unlike the soldered in style on my A&H System 8, these look almost like "fuses" that pop in a holder. I remember these same kind of bulbs being in my old Model 3 board back in the 70's and 80's. Are these hard to replace? Hard to get to? I'm just looking for some pointers before I go taking the thing apart... Thanks in Advance Analogeezer |
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| | #2 |
| Gear maniac Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Down Under a Table
Posts: 161
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I'm not sure about the 122 specifically, but I used to have an M-600 console that used a similarly described "Fuse Looking" light. JKL had them, but they were like $13 a piece. OUCH!
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| | #3 | |
| Gear maniac Joined: Aug 2006 Location: DC Megalopolis
Posts: 232
Thread Starter | Quote:
Do you know how you get to them? Disassemble the meter I take it but any tips would be greatly appreciated. Analogeezer | |
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| | #4 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Apr 2006 Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,728
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Try Tascam spare parts in the US. If you know the voltage and current you can use a solder in globe and just solder it to the holder if you can't find the original. I replaced my M700 bulbs with leds because the originals were hard to find and expensive. Now I have blue and red meters. If they are similar construction the vu meter case should click open (do it carefully) and they are easy to get to from there. |
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| | #5 | |
| Gear maniac Joined: Aug 2006 Location: DC Megalopolis
Posts: 232
Thread Starter | Quote:
My A&H System 8 has a real primitive bulb replacement procedure, you pull about a million screws out of the back, then pull off these bars that hold the meters into the front panel, then take the clear tape off that holds the clear plastic front onto the back, then remove the old bulb and solder in a new one. I've done a few on it, need to do some more. At some point I'd love to do the LED mods for that desk but I've not found a source that really explains how to do this, the lights in the desk are 8volt, "wire ended" and only seem to be available from A&H. Analogeezer | |
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| | #6 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Sep 2004 Location: UK
Posts: 4,822
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Hi Buy a selection of different types of probably yellow LEDs and play with different currents through them to get a suitable illumination. You probably want to wire about 3 or 4 in series maybe with a bit of tissue to get a decent spread of light. Once you have done this 'RnD' part you can change them quickly later on. Matt S |
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| | #7 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Apr 2006 Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,728
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Here's a link to the thread on my console. I explain in there how I did mine. It may be different to your layout but the theory of calculating the reistors needed is the same. Tascam M700 de/recommission journey meter pic: http://www.gearslutz.com/board/attac...ey-meter04.jpg Matt's idea of altering the current for illumination level is a good one. Had I a little more experience when I did these I would have mounted a trimpot resistor outside the meter casing on the supply line so I could adjust the led brightness and it would have also saved me the trouble of fitting the resistors into the meter case. But hey, I'm always learning. My console is the grownup's version of those "2001 science projects" kits. I also used fairly narrow beam leds, but you can get ones with wider illumination angles to avoid what I call "the searchlight phenomenon". Even with it I still like the look of my meters. I may revisit the setup oneday. Ahh...oneday... |
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| | #8 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Sep 2004 Location: UK
Posts: 4,822
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Hi I suppose a string of the surface mount leds on a bit of 'veroboard' then with some tissue to diffuse the light could look good, if a PITA to assemble. Mount the resistor external so you can play with the brightness. You can get leds for 'sidelighting' LCD displays, not really looked at what is available though. Matt S |
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| | #9 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Apr 2006 Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,728
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Or how about splitting of the signal feed to the meter, amplifying it and sending it to some of those dual colour leds so that the meters are green normally but change to red on signal peaks. Ok maybe that's a bit over the top. It would be easy to tell out of the corner of your eye when something was peakin though. I have been looking for some of those leds but ones that are blue normally then change to red on higher current. Only found green and red though. Don't Purple make a little pcb of leds you can use instead of globes in Urei gear?
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| | #10 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2004 Location: Northern New Jersey
Posts: 562
| Contact Us On some Tascam meters that use the same bulbs found inside those 'fuse-type' cases, I'd carefully break the glass and remove the bulb and leads. If it was too bright when soldered into the meter, I'd disconnect one end and put a 1/4W resistor in series with the bulb.. I think around 10 ohms? Not sure you can easily do the same mod with the whole snap in bulb if it's too bright. Best, Paul
__________________ WADAYAKNOW.. For the first time in my life, I'm wrong again! |
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