iron oxide is bigger than iron, so corrosion can spread on things like car sheet metal by cracking the metal deeper and exposing it to air/moisture/etc. this is not the case with aluminum. is the same true of nickel?
I know that we use a Nickel plate over copper and then plate gold on top of that for "hard gold" contacts on CPU sockets. It's definitely stable, durable stuff.
In fact, undercutting from the copper eroding faster than the nickel is a constant hassle in this process. Besides, Have you seen the old nickel plated revolvers? It eventually just wears off after a lifetime of hard use.
Crimped terminations may well be better than soldering, but I wouldn't bet on that when the crimps are made with tools/dies that may not perfectly match the pin, and by someone with little previous experience. Another reason I prefer solder-pot pins. Not to mention the fact that solder-pot pins tend to be SOLID "screw-machine" parts, and the crimp terminals tend to be thin STAMPED metal that are not nearly as strong. Especially for heavy use like stage boxes/snakes, etc.
...but I wouldn't bet on that when the crimps are made with tools/dies that may not perfectly match the pin, and by someone with little previous experience.
The crimp tabs all vary slightly in their dimensions, so this comment would suggest that each $.05 contact part number requires its' own $500 crimp tool. Not that it would surprise me, but is that the understanding in the industry?
I've heard it is a mess using the wrong crimper, but how close do you have to be? After all, all we are doing is curling the tabs in toward each other and then compressing them into the conductor. I would think there would be a range of acceptable die dimensions.
As S21 says, you must take care to NOT deform the pin when crimping or it won't fit properly into the connector shell. Unless you use a good crimping tool with the proper die set, crimping isn't nearly as easy as it sounds. You could wind up with a big, expensive mess.