cutting steel project box- what too?

[electric]

hi all,
what tool is used to cut holes for connectors in a steel rack chassis for a diy project? i need to cut holes in the back of a rack for 3 dsub connectors and 4 xlr. is there a simple tool that can help you do this?

electric

[2leod]

How thick is the steel? A stepped sheet metal drill like this works pretty slick on medium to heavy guage sheet. You'll need to file out the holes square for the dsub. You should be able to pick one up at your hardware store or automotive supply.

[electric]

looks like front and back are 16 guage aluminum. sides are 20 guage steel. (supposedly).


do you make outlines, drill holes and then pound out with a hammer or something like that? then file down? also what type of file would you use. i am completely clueless on this stuff.

[Brad Blackwood]

http://www.greenlee.textron.com/

Greenlee makes hole-punching tools that cleanly cut holes in metal. Bought one to build some equipment and it cuts perfect holes without bending the metal, etc.

About $35.

[2leod]

Are you referring to the knockout punch sets, Brad? Those are really good and easy to use... they have two pieces, a die and a punch with a bolt between them. You drill a hole the size of the bolt and the die goes on the back of the sheet with the bolt threaded to the die through the punch at the front of the sheet and the hole you've drilled. As you tighten the bolt the punch pierces through the sheet and makes the hole to that size. No fuss, no muss. The stepped drill bit, which you should be able to pick up for under ten dollars, you use with your drill (centre punch where the centre of the hole will be) and you just keep drilling untill you get to the size you need. Screw the connectors to the sheet with self tapping screws. Depending on the size of your D-sub you might need to make two holes and use tin snippers between them to get a rectangular hole, or file the edges of the hole with a square file until the D-sub fits. If this seems a bit much for you to handle yourself you might want to take the chassis down to a metal fabricating shop, they'd be able to get you holed up in no time!

[electric]

thanks guys. great info.

[electric]

checked out greenlee punches for db25 holes....very expensive. the one i saw was $400! the special die shape must be what make it expensive. i think the cheap $35 ones are for circular holes (which i need also for xlr). looks like my best bet is a metal fab shop.

regards,
electric

[ulysses]

Originally posted by electric
what tool is used to cut holes for connectors in a steel rack chassis for a diy project? i need to cut holes in the back of a rack for 3 dsub connectors and 4 xlr. is there a simple tool that can help you do this?

There are a whole lot of tools that come in handy, but the cost adds up pretty quickly. Ideally, a milling machine would be the elegant method for doing custom metal work like those D-sub holes on a custom basis. A drill press, a file, an accurate drawing of the hole you want, and a whole lot of patience and elbow grease can also get it done. The greenlee chassis punches are great, but they are expensive unless you need a hole the size of a 1" conduit (which ain't 1", by the way). Those stepper bits can be very useful when you don't want to shell out for a whole bunch of different punches, but they're not a lot of fun to use. The one I use cost about $35. You'll also be really happy when you spend $30 at Home Depot for an automatic centering punch and a set of deburring tools. They changed my life. Accurate measuring tools are essential too (a digital caliper is on my wish list). And topping off the list is a decent printer and a can of spray adhesive. If you glue a print-out of your hole to the workpiece, you can just keep filing until the connector fits. I don't know what you call the kind of files for this kind of work, but I know them when I see them. You're in Minneapolis, why don't you stop by for a visit and I'll show you my studio and shop. It sounds like you're building a clone of my box, so maybe you'd like to see inside one.

[Brad Blackwood]

Of course, you should try this - http://www.frontpanelexpress.com

[ozoftheelements]

i am actually into day three of my rack chassis for a quad eight pre/eq. The nice lady at tanner electronics told me to use a dremel tool. i bought one for 60$ at the only place in the world that sucks for ass than FRY's : Home depot. I was able to use up about 20 blades and two mendrels in order to cut my horribly disfigured and ganky holes. I am not, nor have never been a handy man, but hell once the connectors and pre are mounted the gankiness of the holes will be for only me to know. So, i guess the dremel tool is not that bad (worked great on some drywall, and also polished my watch beautifully) but be sure to buy lots of blades. I had to go to F*&*&in Home Depot 55 F#$^!@IN! TIMES this weekend.
P.s.
if i had bought the cheaper chassis(i had the 16/20 gauge like you) it would have been pretty easy w/ the dremel.

[ulysses]

Originally posted by ozoftheelements
i am actually into day three of my rack chassis for a quad eight pre/eq. The nice lady at tanner electronics told me to use a dremel tool. i bought one for 60$ at the only place in the world that sucks for ass than FRY's : Home depot. I was able to use up about 20 blades and two mendrels in order to cut my horribly disfigured and ganky holes. I am not, nor have never been a handy man, but hell once the connectors and pre are mounted the gankiness of the holes will be for only me to know. So, i guess the dremel tool is not that bad (worked great on some drywall, and also polished my watch beautifully) but be sure to buy lots of blades. I had to go to F*&*&in Home Depot 55 F#$^!@IN! TIMES this weekend.
P.s.
if i had bought the cheaper chassis(i had the 16/20 gauge like you) it would have been pretty easy w/ the dremel.

Oh, that brings up one other very important point: If you're half-assing your own metal work, stick with aluminum!

The difference between aluminum and steel, in terms of how much work it is to cut, how many tools you break or wear out, and how nice your holes ultimately turn out, is not subtle. After all, the tools are made of steel.

[ozoftheelements]

yep cutting aluminum would have been prettier, but i've been to the depths of hell and now i will apreciate the light.

[electric]

found a metal fab outfit in town that will take my tiny little miniscule project. said they could do it for $60. (1 hr of labor.) probaby would be money well spent.

i dont want to kiss away a weekend for cutting through some goddam steel.

[ozoftheelements]

i spent 60$ on dremel blades. good thing i didn't cancel any sessions. thats the way to go. **** DIY metalshop!

[chrisjin]

yea DIY metalshop is not too happening...I've gotten adventerous a couple of times though..I really half-ass it, but it works...If your really impatient and you just need a couple holes, heres my approach

I just go to orchard supply and get one of those diamond bits at about 1/4 inch and drill a hole all the way through first....about $10...takes a few minutes to get through....then I get a couple hole driller things with teeth around the edge that are attached to a drill bit thats in the center (I don't know what you call them) ..they are about $6 each...you can't just start off with those because you have to use the diamond bit first to cut through....

then I just go for it with that...usually takes about five to ten minutes to get through and you blow out one of the drill bit things per hole...but

damn I'm just realizing how ghetto that is...oh well...It worked

I only needed two holes

[electric]

hey Justin-
thanks for the feedback. where is your studio in minneapolis? i would definitely stop by some time.

jon

[Jason Poulin]

uni-bit...

knock out set...

whole saw...


Jason