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		<title>Gearslutz.com - Geekslutz forum</title>
		<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[A forum for techie geekie nerds! Debate diodes, talk tubes & evaluate the potential of potentiometers! Moderated by EveAnna Manley of Manley Labs, CA, USA and Tim Farrant of Buzz Audio, Wellington, New Zealand]]></description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 16:27:23 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Gearslutz.com - Geekslutz forum</title>
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			<title>How to wire input and output xformer to old preamp?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846744-how-wire-input-output-xformer-old-preamp.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 11:05:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi Slutz. I've got some old preamps that i've built a wooden rack case for. Its intended to be used live and in my home studio.  
At this moment its just unbalanced in/out but i have some nice old...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi Slutz. I've got some old preamps that i've built a wooden rack case for. Its intended to be used live and in my home studio. <br />
At this moment its just unbalanced in/out but i have some nice old transformers i would like to use with them<br />
<br />
For input i'd like to wire up a Lundahl SR504a (200-2000 ohm) and the output is a vintage philips 600:600 transformer. Ive tested the output with a line signal and it soumds fantastic, nice low mids and hifq rolloff/softening.<br />
<br />
The preamp has one unbalanced input switchdble between high ohm snd low ohm. 32kohm and 8kohm respectively. <br />
Input x is 2kohm, would i be better of using the high ohm input. Ive read this type of config creates s bridging that allows more voltage across?<br />
<br />
Do i just put the - signal from x to ground or just unused?<br />
<br />
There is two outputs from the preamp, one 4ohm and one 8ohm. The latter is supposed to be for xformer use. Would that be a big mismatch for my 600:600 transformer? <br />
<br />
Thanks for your time!<br />
Br Hans</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Hans A</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846744-how-wire-input-output-xformer-old-preamp.html</guid>
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			<title>Studiomaster Sessionmix 16:2 Infomation</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846729-studiomaster-sessionmix-16-2-infomation.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 09:20:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am cleaning up an English made STUDIOMASTER SESSION MIX 16:2 mixer for a friend. When I opened it I found that someone had 'worked' on it in the past, made a bit of a mess it too. My plan is to...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am cleaning up an English made STUDIOMASTER SESSION MIX 16:2 mixer for a friend. When I opened it I found that someone had 'worked' on it in the past, made a bit of a mess it too. My plan is to restore it to original so that he can use it to sum outside of the box.<br />
<br />
I have scoured the internet for any information, especially user and service manuals. To date my efforts have only turned up a schematic of questionable accuracy.<br />
<br />
I am hoping that someone may have some documentation, user manuals, service manuals or may just be familiar with the inside of the console.<br />
<br />
Any info that people have would be much appreciated.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>The_Reverend</dc:creator>
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			<title>U373bk</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846710-u373bk.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 06:30:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello 
Yet another broken vintage limiter: 
(No I won't ask for schematics, someone else already did) 
 
I own two Telefunken U373bk, racked for stereo use, following ser#, matched pair, newly...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello<br />
Yet another broken vintage limiter:<br />
(No I won't ask for schematics, someone else already did)<br />
<br />
I own two Telefunken U373bk, racked for stereo use, following ser#, matched pair, newly recapped, beautyful &quot;vinyl&quot;-like sound.<br />
<br />
But one of the channels is failing sometimes:<br />
it tends to clip in a certain way when pushed with too much energy, especially in the bass/lo mids. The sound is &quot;breaking down&quot; somehow, not really distorting, but fluttering, like someone pulled the mains plug for 200ms at each transient...<br />
It happens even at moderate levels, mostly with percussive material. The effect is the same, when I link both units (pin 16).<br />
The sound is different depending on working mode. It happens, in my opinion, AT or AFTER the compression stage.<br />
The circuit seems to produce short periods of DC/very low frequency attacks on the output, even when the source signal has a cutoff at 250Hz.<br />
<br />
Any ideas? Anyone knows these units?<br />
I can send all kinds of measurements, sound files etc... trying to find an experienced tech who is good with vintage circuits, but that could become a difficult task here in Graz/Austria ;)<br />
<br />
Any help or suggestions appreciated!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>RSFiesta</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846710-u373bk.html</guid>
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			<title>Bass Amp Schematic needed</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846675-bass-amp-schematic-needed.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 02:21:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, 
I'm new to this forum. I'm planning to build a Bass Amp for my personal use. The speaker I've chosen comes from Sony hi-fi and has a rating of 75watts 8 ohms. 
What should be the wattage of the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
I'm new to this forum. I'm planning to build a Bass Amp for my personal use. The speaker I've chosen comes from Sony hi-fi and has a rating of 75watts 8 ohms.<br />
What should be the wattage of the circuit for that speaker? Kindly provide me a schematic for that.<br />
P.S I dont want a bass amp specifically. It should be a guitar amp schematic.<br />
<br />
Thankyou</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>saadabdulrahim</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846675-bass-amp-schematic-needed.html</guid>
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			<title>Novation Bass Station (Original) No Sound Help!</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846606-novation-bass-station-original-no-sound-help.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 20:57:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello! 
 
Let me first state very clearly that this is NOT anything to do with the keyboard having different midi send/receive channels. I have been through the user manual, and what info I can find...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello!<br />
<br />
Let me first state very clearly that this is <i>NOT anything to do with the keyboard having different midi send/receive channels.</i> I have been through the user manual, and what info I can find online many times. :P<br />
<br />
The unit powers up nicely, lights come on, I can change presets, adjust LFO speeds etc (Verified by differences in blinking lights). The issue is that there is is no sound at all coming out of the unit. Even when the unit is cranked up, there is no noise, hum, etc coming into the mixer. I've opened the unit up, and there is no voltage coming from the PCB board where the 1/4&quot; connector is soldered to.<br />
<br />
I'm wondering if anyone has any experience finding problems in analogue synth circuitry, or anyone with specific info about what to look for in these particular units? I have near zero experience isolating issues on circuit boards. Also, there is no evident burn marks on any capacitors or resistors that I could easily detect.<br />
<br />
Any suggestions on how I can bring this old thing back to life would be greatly appreciated.<br />
<br />
Cheeers</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>etherealflare</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846606-novation-bass-station-original-no-sound-help.html</guid>
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			<title>Soundcraft Vienna II</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846574-soundcraft-vienna-ii.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 18:31:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Once again I seem to have saddled myself with a piece of gear that is driving me crazy. I replaced the D&amp;R that was giving me grief with a Soundcraft Vienna II, a huge sucker that is now giving me...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Once again I seem to have saddled myself with a piece of gear that is driving me crazy. I replaced the D&amp;R that was giving me grief with a Soundcraft Vienna II, a huge sucker that is now giving me grief. I'm not a tech at all and need to take stuff to people to fix, but this console is huge and heavy and it's on a second floor. I'm trying to work out where my problem might lie so I can take components to someone to fix.<br />
<br />
The console has two problems, some noise and it shuts down eventually.<br />
The power supply  a Soundcraft 950 will shut down one side, the B side, after the console has been on for sometimes and hour, sometimes a day, sometimes 3 minutes. It will often shut down when the amp connected to the CR outs is switched on. The power supply does not blow fuses it just pops one side off. It will then turn back on and sometimes remain on but mostly once it's popped off it doesn't usually stay on long after that until it is allowed to cool off for quite a while. The side which goes off seems to run hotter than the side which doesn't but I wouldn't say it gets really hot.<br />
<br />
The power supply will run for days if the board is not hooked up to it.  The power comes in, to the console, from the power supply, on a dual cable and that goes to a central circuit board which distributes power to the console. The +-17v stuff runs power to the various channel strips and busses and auxes and master out put and the VCAs . The meters get 48v and phantom<br />
gets 7.5. The 17v stuff goes to 3 looms and they power different areas. Loom A powers channels 1- 16 and half the master section and when I disconnect it the board will run reliably.<br />
<br />
I've pulled all of the channels from 1-16 and when you get down to the one left, the board will run. If I add a few back in the power supply will eventually shut down on the B side. No specific input channel causes the problem, I've switched them all in and out in order to test that. This seems to suggest that whatever is causing the problem is in either the power supply or that circuit board that distributes power and particularly the part of the circuit board that powers loom A. Does that make sense so far?<br />
<br />
The noise is something else I believe, it starts when the console is powered up and is a static distortion mainly on the right. If I lift out the master section module and touch the loom that is fed by the inserts on the main  stereo out the noise goes away, sometimes touching the wires that feed the stereo VU meters, on the output, causes the noise to go away, A good wrap with a knuckle on the master module near the main led meters will stop the noise. Once the noise goes away it'll come back a few times, then it is gone until the board is turned off then on again. I've sprayed the insert jacks and ran a 1/4 plug in and out of them to see if any corrosion is causing the problem, but they look clean as a whistle.  Any help figuring out where to look or ideas about what could rectify these problems is appreciated. <br />
<br />
Also if anyone who has any idea where I might find parts for a Vienna II I'd appreciate a heads up. I have done some searches but mainly find consoles that are still working. Take care, Logan</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Logan</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846574-soundcraft-vienna-ii.html</guid>
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			<title>Otari mx5050 mkIII-8 calibrating advice</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846570-otari-mx5050-mkiii-8-calibrating-advice.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 18:05:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have read a fair amount of the other posts on Otari calibration, but not many address my issues. 
 
Before loading on and calibrating to the MRL tape, i want to set the input levels and SRL levels...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have read a fair amount of the other posts on Otari calibration, but not many address my issues.<br />
<br />
Before loading on and calibrating to the MRL tape, i want to set the input levels and SRL levels on the back to read at 0 on the UV meter. i had the machine serviced recently and supposedly the VU meters were set.<br />
<br />
1.) In which order should i set each respective level. One idea was to run 10kHZ tone and manually turn SRL knob on front to 12o'clock and then adjust input level until it hits 0 on VU. Then disengage SRL and adjust SRL pot on back until VU equals 0.<br />
<br />
Does that sound right?<br />
<br />
2.) I am running a signal generator out of pro tools which i read runs at dBFS, so i set the tone to -18dBFS(that equals +4dBu or thereabouts right?. 8 outputs from my fire face 800 are each running into each channel at +4dBu output level setting.<br />
<br />
Does that sound right? Cause when i do all of that, it shows up at different levels when i monitor it in daw. Should i give up on checking output levels in daw and just get a meter?<br />
<br />
Thanks and sorry for long inquiry.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>falcon mitts</dc:creator>
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			<title>designing a portable power amp for 30 watt speaker</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846450-designing-portable-power-amp-30-watt-speaker.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 08:18:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[well this is new for me, i'm usually over on the live sound forum ;) 
 
I've got a spare 30 watt 8ohm speaker sat around that I took from an old radio years ago. I go camping a lot and miss my music....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>well this is new for me, i'm usually over on the live sound forum ;)<br />
<br />
I've got a spare 30 watt 8ohm speaker sat around that I took from an old radio years ago. I go camping a lot and miss my music. anyone on here got any idea if I could find/make a circuit or amp that I could power with batteries to play an ipod etc through?<br />
any help or ideas would be awesome.<br />
<br />
cheers guys<br />
Andy</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>crazydrum95</dc:creator>
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			<title>Tuning a Plate Reverb ?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846424-tuning-plate-reverb.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 05:21:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[hi, 
 
Does anyone here have a "scientific" way to tune a plate reverb ? 
I bought a tuning gauge from JCC &amp; Associates a few years back but have never really been able to figure out how to use it...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hi,<br />
<br />
Does anyone here have a &quot;scientific&quot; way to tune a plate reverb ?<br />
I bought a tuning gauge from JCC &amp; Associates a few years back but have never really been able to figure out how to use it (anyone here have any experience with one ?).  Would a torque wrench aid in tuning a plate ?<br />
The plate in question is an Audicon Plate II.<br />
<br />
thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>electraphonic</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846424-tuning-plate-reverb.html</guid>
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			<title>Multivox mx-312, internal pics needed!</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846315-multivox-mx-312-internal-pics-needed.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 20:38:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hi all, 
 
last time I opened my Multivox mx-312 multi echo (also known as Evans se-780) 
I noticed there were several wires between the two circuit boards behind the front panels loose, I believe...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hi all,<br />
<br />
last time I opened my Multivox mx-312 multi echo (also known as Evans se-780)<br />
I noticed there were several wires between the two circuit boards behind the front panels loose, I believe because of bad wire stripping of soldering. the problem now is, I have no clue which wire goes where. The machine is a bit messy inside, and the service manual I bought online was not helpful at all.<br />
<br />
Does someone here has one of these machines, and would like to check theirs and make a few pics of the solder side of both boards?<br />
<br />
thanks,  Jim<br />
<br />
<img src="http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/6609/multivoxfrontek8.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>elektrovolt</dc:creator>
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			<title>vintage Fender PA100 tube problem</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846305-vintage-fender-pa100-tube-problem.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 19:50:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a Fender PA100 and just replaced the 6L6 GC tubes after my brother thrashed it until it didnt work. When i switched it from STANDBY to  ON a little blue fire sparked in each of them, but I've...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a Fender PA100 and just replaced the 6L6 GC tubes after my brother thrashed it until it didnt work. When i switched it from STANDBY to  ON a little blue fire sparked in each of them, but I've heard that can be normal. However the tubes also generate bright red hot spots and begin to get way too hot. I pulled the amp out and the only thing i can find visually is a burnt resistor above one of the tube sockets. There are two there, this is the larger 470ohm 1watt 5% ceramic comp. resistor. My questions are<br />
<br />
1. Will one burnt resistor cause all four tubes to act this way<br />
2. The groundpost from the plug is broke off, can this contribute to the issue<br />
3. I found a 2.2meg 1 watt resistor, can it be used to replace it<br />
<br />
thanks for any input</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>awediophile</dc:creator>
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			<title>Is this a reasonable kludge?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846184-reasonable-kludge.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 10:28:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I bought a used monitor/amp system from the UK a couple of years ago - one of the old BBC Rogers LS5/8/Quad AM8/16 setups.  Both amps were recapped by the seller before delivery.  The amps themselves...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I bought a used monitor/amp system from the UK a couple of years ago - one of the old BBC Rogers LS5/8/Quad AM8/16 setups.  Both amps were recapped by the seller before delivery.  The amps themselves are a bi-amp system, with proprietary crossovers built in, based on the Quad 405-2.  The speakers are big.<br />
<br />
These were for my studio down here in SW France.  I wasn't able to try them out for a few months.  When I did, they worked well (they're for tracking - fun, not expected to be accurate), except one of the amps would somewhat randomly trip the main circuit breaker for the outlets in the studio - not the individual breaker, the master for the outlets.  No audible signs beforehand, no untoward heat generated.  If the breaker is reset, the amp will trip it again within a few minutes, but sounds fine until then.<br />
<br />
I'm seriously out in the middle of nowhere here.  Finding someone good to chase down an intermittent problem and getting the amp to them has proved more difficult than I thought - pretty much impossible in France, close to it in the UK (so far).  <br />
<br />
I've also been told anecdotally that French electrical systems are more &quot;sensitive&quot; to ground faults than in the UK - and that the tech who recapped the amps did a 4-hour burn-in when he finished his work, with no problems.  Although I'd prefer 24 hours, the implication is that the amp worked fine on UK mains, but not in France.  240V for the UK, 230V for France, if that makes any difference.<br />
<br />
I thought I might try a good 1000VA isolation transformer on the AC supply to the amp to see if that might enable the amp to work here.  It doesn't solve the actual problem, but it might get things running - and maybe whatever's wrong in the amp will actually go wrong permanently, making it easier to fix (I know this is tortured logic, but...)  I'd have to buy the iso transformer, but I've found one on ebay in France that I can get for about €100.<br />
<br />
Given that the problem occurs after a couple of hours of run time (and it doesn't matter whether signal is being passed, low volume, high volume, etc.) and then will reoccur within minutes after it occurs for the first time, it sounds to me like a bad cap - possibly in the power supply?  I have some PS caps on hand that will fit the amp, and could try those.<br />
<br />
Anyone have any thoughts?  Is my idea of the iso transformer completely wrong?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>myles</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846184-reasonable-kludge.html</guid>
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			<title>Sony C48 mic mount thread adapter</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846116-sony-c48-mic-mount-thread-adapter.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 02:51:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm looking for any information on the thread adapter insert on the base of a Sony C48 mic. I have a 5/8 american version pictured on the left as well as a euro thread pictured on the right, but...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm looking for any information on the thread adapter insert on the base of a Sony C48 mic. I have a 5/8 american version pictured on the left as well as a euro thread pictured on the right, but can't find any information on whether these are sony specific parts or available elsewhere. Tried calling Sony (bad idea) and they couldn't even look at a schematic. Basically, I need another 5/8 adapter.<br />
<br />
I saw a thread on the Sony C37P mic as being 1/2&quot; pipe thread but this doesn't seem to be that... any insight would be appreciated!</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>fastfwdd</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846116-sony-c48-mic-mount-thread-adapter.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Is chaining power conditioners a bad idea?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846100-chaining-power-conditioners-bad-idea.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 23:46:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Is it hazardous to plug two or three power conditioners in series?   
I was thinking why not a bandpass filter for the power line?  But maybe the reactivity is bad?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Is it hazardous to plug two or three power conditioners in series?  <br />
I was thinking why not a bandpass filter for the power line?  But maybe the reactivity is bad?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>OpusOfTrolls</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846100-chaining-power-conditioners-bad-idea.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>What is the difference between a discrete opamp vs just transistors</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846035-what-difference-between-discrete-opamp-vs-just-transistors.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 17:02:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm wondering what are some of the differences, advantages/disadvantages, between a mic preamp that uses a 2520 or the neve ba type gain block, vs some older discrete preamps like langevin or sphere...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm wondering what are some of the differences, advantages/disadvantages, between a mic preamp that uses a 2520 or the neve ba type gain block, vs some older discrete preamps like langevin or sphere or early adm that only use maybe 4-6 transistors.  While the doa can have 11 or even 13 transistors in it.<br />
I have some cards that *could* work as a mic pre, but I'm wondering if maybe it's better suited to be a bus/line amp, since there are only a few transistors actually.  Maybe that has more to do with the input impedance of the transformer rather than how much gain it can make, I'm not sure.<br />
Some of the very early ADM channels (700 series) do not have their op amp, just some transistors peppered through the channel strip, while the later 770 series uses their AD202 (opamp).  What is the difference there?  Thank you for the education.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>danly</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/846035-what-difference-between-discrete-opamp-vs-just-transistors.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[How can I verify this caps' polarity?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845810-how-can-i-verify-caps-polarity.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 12:44:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[hey folks, so im repairing the below Ward Beck preamp, and two of the caps appear to contradict the schems, in terms of polarity. they are C5 and C13: 
 
page 9- 
 
<a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hey folks, so im repairing the below Ward Beck preamp, and two of the caps appear to contradict the schems, in terms of polarity. they are C5 and C13:<br />
<br />
page 9-<br />
<br />
<a href="http://wbsps.ca/PDFs/Ward-Beck%20Systems%20-%20M441M%20-%20Channel%20Amplifier%20-%20www.WBSps.ca.pdf" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://wbsps.ca/PDFs/Ward-Beck%20Sys...w.WBSps.ca.pdf</a><br />
<br />
they are tantalum caps. when facing the lettering, the + is usually the right leg. this would contradict the placement in the schems. <br />
<br />
how can i verify which way is right? thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>rjd2</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845810-how-can-i-verify-caps-polarity.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Avalon 737 tech!!!</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845780-avalon-737-tech.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 06:35:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, 
I have an Avalon 737 that needs help. It passes audio but after about 30 seconds when the relay pops in it looses audio. I am looking for a good tech to get it up to shape. I know Avalon's...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
I have an Avalon 737 that needs help. It passes audio but after about 30 seconds when the relay pops in it looses audio. I am looking for a good tech to get it up to shape. I know Avalon's support is not as good as it should be which several friends informed me of. Does anyone know a good tech who can get the 737 back up to shape?<br />
Thanks....</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>SIXTWOFOUR</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845780-avalon-737-tech.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Problems with DBX 165's]]></title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845769-problems-dbx-165s.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 03:58:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi there, 
 
I have two DBX 165 compressors with a couple of issues that I haven't been able to correct and thought of checking if anyone could point me in the right direction. 
 
Unit # 1 
 
All...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi there,<br />
<br />
I have two DBX 165 compressors with a couple of issues that I haven't been able to correct and thought of checking if anyone could point me in the right direction.<br />
<br />
Unit # 1<br />
<br />
All functions work and it is compressing, however if I set threshold to -30 I can't get passed -10. These units usually compress very hard but this particular unit does not. <br />
<br />
Another issue is that meter only works in gain reduction. Although signal is passing and output is working, meter won't work in in our out mode. If I hold the gain reduction switch half way I can get the meter working in output mode.<br />
<br />
All caps and ic's are new, except for LM308 which I don't have in stock.<br />
<br />
I slaved this unit to a working 165 and it compresses fine if controlled by another unit.<br />
<br />
Unit # 2<br />
<br />
The problem with this unit is that although it compresses fine, if I switch to gain reduction the meter will stop moving and will stay fixed at whatever ratio selected in the compression knob. This only happens if the switch is in gain reduction mode. If I move to output or input the meter works just fine.<br />
<br />
Also if I engage the auto switch it will work fine.<br />
<br />
Like the first unit, this one is also recapped and has new ic's except for LM308. <br />
<br />
I swapped QA 1, 2 and 3 on both units to see if anything changed but so far no improvements.<br />
<br />
I appreciate if anyone could point me in the right direction.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>81series.com</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845769-problems-dbx-165s.html</guid>
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			<title>Oscilloscope for Protools?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845756-oscilloscope-protools.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 02:06:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I need a basic oscilloscope to observe trim adjustments in a few of my DIY builds.  Are there any reasonably accurate/reputable oscilloscope plugins for Protools?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I need a basic oscilloscope to observe trim adjustments in a few of my DIY builds.  Are there any reasonably accurate/reputable oscilloscope plugins for Protools?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>che_guitarra</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845756-oscilloscope-protools.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Advice on modding headphone cable.</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845754-advice-modding-headphone-cable.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 01:55:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Firstly, please excuse my ignorance, I am no expert at this kind of thing. 
I am looking at a new headphone amp for my Sennheiser HD800's. But the outputs are xlr, so I need to convert the current...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Firstly, please excuse my ignorance, I am no expert at this kind of thing.<br />
I am looking at a new headphone amp for my Sennheiser HD800's. But the outputs are xlr, so I need to convert the current 1/4 plug. (There are cables you can buy, but they start at $400, so I would like to avoid that, after hearing people have modded the stock cable)<br />
Firstly, there are 2 output options on the amp. Two 3 pin xlr's(left and right) or one 4 pin xlr. I am leaning toward the 4 pin xlr, as this seems easier (unless the other way would be better.)<br />
I am looking at this Nuetrik plug.<br />
<img src="http://store.haveinc.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/NEUNC4MXXBAG.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
When connecting the 4 wires to the plug, how do I know which one goes where?<br />
I know they are 2 stereo pairs, but does it matter what order they are connected?<br />
I'm getting someone to solder this for me, as I have no experience, but I want to give them the correct info.<br />
Also is there anything else to consider with mod? I don't want to get it wrong, as even the stock cable is about $250 to replace!<br />
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!howdy</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>TheBrightSide</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845754-advice-modding-headphone-cable.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Passive monitor switch - Advice on switch</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845750-passive-monitor-switch-advice-switch.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 01:09:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Gonna build a passive monitor switch, RCA connections only. 
Just a switch with mute button, no attenuation... 
 
Need some advice on the switch though : 
 
I'm gonna go for a 4 Pole 3 Position...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Gonna build a passive monitor switch, RCA connections only.<br />
Just a switch with mute button, no attenuation...<br />
<br />
Need some advice on the switch though :<br />
<br />
I'm gonna go for a 4 Pole 3 Position switch, but have two doubts :<br />
<br />
1. Shorting or non shorting ?? Some say it don't matter, others say a shorting is better allthough it causes &quot;pops&quot;, while a non-shorting doesn't ?<br />
<br />
<br />
2. I found some elma switches, but they are all rated 500mA...is that enough ?? I read some using 3A switches or higher, but can't find any Elma's with that kind of rating...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Thanks for the advice !</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>FrayE</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845750-passive-monitor-switch-advice-switch.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Servicing DBX 160 VU</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845732-servicing-dbx-160-vu.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Jun 2013 23:24:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am currently working on a DBX 160VU. The issue is that when put into the "gain change" metering the needle drops to about -15db as it's zero. Obviously it should be at 0. I already calibrated both...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am currently working on a DBX 160VU. The issue is that when put into the &quot;gain change&quot; metering the needle drops to about -15db as it's zero. Obviously it should be at 0. I already calibrated both the input and output metering to 0 so one would think I could just calibrate the gain change metering. I can not for the life of me find where to do that. I've checked both the schematics and calibration steps and it says to adjust resistor 51. The only problem with that is the schematics I have happen to be a xerox copy in pdf form and the area where R51 should be shown is half cut off. Inside the actual unit I can't find anything in that general area that looks like a variable resistor. There are a few along the side that are used for gain adjustments but not for the metering. There is also another in the center but this is not the correct one either. That being said I am at a loss of what to do. The unit functions properly. It passes signal, compresses and all that fun stuff just fine with the exception of the meter being off. The meter itself actually shows the gain reduction fine as well, it's just not zeroed...Can anyone shed some light on what it is I need to adjust? or perhaps there actually is something else wrong with the unit?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Buffstuffbuddha</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845732-servicing-dbx-160-vu.html</guid>
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			<title>Headphone amp issue</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845692-headphone-amp-issue.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Jun 2013 19:54:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I've been using this headphone amp for about a year and a half, its a Behringer HA400 unit, never had any problems with it until lately when it started making this fuzz noise in the right ear...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I've been using this headphone amp for about a year and a half, its a Behringer HA400 unit, never had any problems with it until lately when it started making this fuzz noise in the right ear channel whenever subbass is present. I ran different pairs of cans through all 4 outputs, no changes, not even when I messed around with the power cable and the input one. The interesting thing is it only starts acting up after a few hours of use, so if I turn it off and leave it then get back to it awhile later the noise will have disappeared.<br />
<br />
Any insight on what could this be due to ?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>ChrisBlackstarr</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845692-headphone-amp-issue.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Modular power supply for studio?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845663-modular-power-supply-studio.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Jun 2013 17:38:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Is there something like voodoo labs pedal power for devices that use internal power supplies? Like the power supply for a computer?  
 
I'd rather use one nice one power source than a bunch of...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Is there something like voodoo labs pedal power for devices that use internal power supplies? Like the power supply for a computer? <br />
<br />
I'd rather use one nice one power source than a bunch of different ones. I'd think it'd help with ground issues too. It'd be especially nice with my rack gear where I worry about the heat and age of all those power transformers more than anything.<br />
<br />
I'm thinking about using the pedal power for my drum machines and a few synths that use wall warts, but it'd be nice to get something that does it all. :)<br />
<br />
Thanks for any advice.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>foodeater</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845663-modular-power-supply-studio.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>RTS/Telex ADAM CS PSU repair?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845642-rts-telex-adam-cs-psu-repair.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Jun 2013 15:51:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello, 
Im looking for a tech that can rebuild a PSU for a TELEX Adam CS intercom system.  OR a source to buy a used one?  Bosch(telex) is telling me that ours is non repairable and that they are no...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,<br />
Im looking for a tech that can rebuild a PSU for a TELEX Adam CS intercom system.  OR a source to buy a used one?  Bosch(telex) is telling me that ours is non repairable and that they are no longer available.  Im kinda thinking that their service department doesn't do component level repairs.<br />
<br />
Any info is greatly appreciated as we are on borrowed time running on the back up which is just as old.  <br />
thanks!<br />
steve</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>beatsnblunts</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845642-rts-telex-adam-cs-psu-repair.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>PC Help Request</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845611-pc-help-request.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Jun 2013 12:49:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Long story short: My office PC, which was running XP Pro OS, got a corrupted and, sadly, unrepairable boot cycle. So, I installed a new C drive, loaded Win 7 Pro and tried to access my data from the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Long story short: My office PC, which was running XP Pro OS, got a corrupted and, sadly, unrepairable boot cycle. So, I installed a new C drive, loaded Win 7 Pro and tried to access my data from the old C drive. I have everything backed up in triplicate, so I'm not worried about anything except my email folder, which is TRAPPED IN OUTLOOK EXPRESS.<br />
<br />
I cannot open it. I, apparently cannot import it into Outlook unless I can open it. I found this article: <a href="http://www.slipstick.com/outlook/config/converting-addresses-to-or-from-outlook/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Converting Addresses to or from Outlook - Slipstick Systems</a> which I would love to apply except every attempt to open it is met with the error message: OUTLOOK EXPRESS COULD NOT OPEN BECAUSE MSOE DLL DID NOT LOAD. :facepalm: I don't have a clue why it won't load, <u>I can see the &quot;.dll&quot; listed </u>right under the Outlook Express application! So clearly, it's NOT missing! confoosed<br />
<br />
<br />
I tried installing Live Mail, which is the newer version of Outlook Express, hoping it would import there, thus allowing me to open it and export it into the full version of Outlook. But that didn't work either. I'm so desperate now, that I'm looking at these adds for downloads that SAY they can fix MSOE DLL problems. <a href="http://www.tomshardware.com/s/msoe+dll+accessible/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">msoe dll accessible</a>  But, I'm worried about just downloading a bunch of spyware and/or viruses. Has anybody here ever had to recover an email account? Do ANY of these programs actually work? It's going on a week now and I'm getting frantic! ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Keyplayer</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845611-pc-help-request.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Correlate transformer wattage with maximum levels?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845546-correlate-transformer-wattage-maximum-levels.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Jun 2013 02:33:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Looking at getting some inexpensive transformers for a DIY project. I really like how Jensen specs their line level transformers. A certain amount of THD at a certain level at a certain frequency....</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Looking at getting some inexpensive transformers for a DIY project. I really like how Jensen specs their line level transformers. A certain amount of THD at a certain level at a certain frequency. For example: <br />
<br />
Jensen JT-11-BMCF 600:600 .002% THD @ +27dBu @ 20Hz<br />
<br />
<br />
Then there is the low-endy stuff like Edcor. I'm looking for 600:600 that can handle +18dBu at least. They have stuff like this, give frequency response at 0dBu, but don't give a maximum level with distortion like Jensen.<br />
<br />
They do have 1/4W, 1/2W and 2 1/2W units, links below-<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.edcorusa.com/p/143/wsm600-600" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">EDCOR - WSM600/600</a><br />
<a href="http://www.edcorusa.com/p/116/pc600-600" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">EDCOR - PC600/600</a><br />
<a href="http://www.edcorusa.com/p/156/xsm600-600" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">EDCOR - XSM600/600</a><br />
<br />
Obviously the 2.5W unit is the biggest, would probably have the biggest core, and could then get a bit more low end before saturation....but is there anyway to really correlate maximum levels without testing the stupid things?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>gcp</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845546-correlate-transformer-wattage-maximum-levels.html</guid>
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			<title>realistic/moog mg-1, not the typical problem!</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845487-realistic-moog-mg-1-not-typical-problem.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 20:58:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[so I have done extensive research into the farthest corners of the webbernets here and can't find this one out: 
 
  my moog/realistic mg-1 tone sources constantly fire. no keys pressed, they drone. ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>so I have done extensive research into the farthest corners of the webbernets here and can't find this one out:<br />
<br />
  my moog/realistic mg-1 tone sources constantly fire. no keys pressed, they drone. <br />
<br />
also the audio in acts like the audio out, even though i did the mod correctly. and the audio out is weak even after i removed resistor 102 and jumped the connection. the master volume has no effect on the output of either.<br />
<br />
  the sliders all work, and the black goo has been eliminated, there's a bit of bleed, which i think is the faders going out (one thing at a time here). i did half of the caps (ran out of supplies) and that helped out a bit.<br />
<br />
<br />
  i heard something about pulling pin 8 out of the i.c.'s that usually fail on the bottom board by the keybed, which i had a tech do the substitution board for those ( 3 cd4520be's on a pcb), but i think it's not related to my problem. that had more to do with the poly section from what i read.<br />
<br />
<br />
   I'm lost, up shit creek without a paddle and a hole in the boat! my only ideas beyond replacing every damned i.c. in this thing is lifting pin 8, and replacing the faders, but i have a sneeky feeling it's something else.<br />
<br />
<br />
  it's already been in the shop once, i'd really prefer it not return.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>sameal</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845487-realistic-moog-mg-1-not-typical-problem.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Noisy BX-16 - is there a cure?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845468-noisy-bx-16-there-cure.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 19:36:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi there, 
 
Usually I hang around with the electronic guys next door, but this time I'm in  need of some technical help, so I thought I'd pop in... 
 
For live use I need 16 channels of mixer space...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi there,<br />
<br />
Usually I hang around with the electronic guys next door, but this time I'm in  need of some technical help, so I thought I'd pop in...<br />
<br />
For live use I need 16 channels of mixer space - my music is Ambient, and I don't use a computer. My Mackie 1402 isn't enough anymore, but the next size, the 1604, is laden with lots of features I don't need, and it's BIG and HEAVY.<br />
So I asked a friend, and he sent me his old (but in good condition) Boss BX-16 for testing. It turned out to be JUST the mixer I need, with JUST the features I need (hey, I can even live with two-band EQ, no problem).<br />
But it's SO noisy!<br />
Do you think a good tech could help in cleaning the output of the BX-16?<br />
Any parts that could be improved on, any parts that may need changing after so many years?<br />
Would it be any use trying it with a pair of DI boxes (I'd need those anyway for gigging)?<br />
<br />
If there is a cure I'll be willing to pay dearly for it, because I don't know of any mixer of this size with sixteen channels, basic EQ, two auxes, phones out and tape out (that's really all I need).<br />
If anyone knows a quieter alternative I'm all ears of course...<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot in advance for any help you can give!<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Bert</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Feinstrom</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845468-noisy-bx-16-there-cure.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Modular Synth interference please LOOK THIS 7 SEC VIDEO !!!</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845243-modular-synth-interference-please-look-7-sec-video.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 00:01:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello Gearslutz 
 
I am very glad to be part of the Gearslutz forum.kfhkh 
 
Here is my first post. 
 
Could someone please help me to resolve this problem.  wworriedhjghfgg 
 
 
Here is the video...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello Gearslutz<br />
<br />
I am very glad to be part of the Gearslutz forum.kfhkh<br />
<br />
Here is my first post.<br />
<br />
Could someone please help me to resolve this problem.  wworriedhjghfgg<br />
<br />
<br />
Here is the video link: <br />
<br />
<a href="http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=V9eFi-ioyi0" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">modular synth interference - YouTube</a> <br />
<br />
<br />
My modular synth oscillators pitch change a little ( fine tuning ) when I get close or far from the synth, when I approche my hand near the synth or when I touch the cables. look like it is more prononce when there is more cables plug in ( like they act like some kind of antenna ). <br />
<br />
My appartment building where I live is very high on the 10th floor, I also have other gear near the synth. <br />
<br />
Can this be interference or maybe the case inside is not whell protected/shilded or properly grounded... <br />
<br />
Does any users has report such problem.? <br />
<br />
I have some electronics knowledge but never came across this type of problem on any other synths. <br />
<br />
Do you know if I could use a power conditionning system ( like a furman ) can help ? <br />
<br />
<br />
Best regards</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>rqckmounted</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845243-modular-synth-interference-please-look-7-sec-video.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Sound Craft Large Console PSU</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845238-sound-craft-large-console-psu.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 12 Jun 2013 23:49:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm looking to replace all the Philips axial Caps on this power supply. I'm having a trouble finding a suitable replacement part for the unit. These are the capacitor part numbers 
 
 Philips 25V...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm looking to replace all the Philips axial Caps on this power supply. I'm having a trouble finding a suitable replacement part for the unit. These are the capacitor part numbers<br />
<br />
 Philips 25V 47uf T 030 KO W1<br />
 Philips 63V 10uf T 030 KO N1<br />
<br />
One of the caps is completely dead and two are near dead and the rest are all over the map as far as measurements go and of course the power supply fails under load. I also had no luck with the schematic for unit even though Sound Craft offers schematics for there other older power supplies.Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>ArtCkec</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845238-sound-craft-large-console-psu.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Altec 1592a mod</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845010-altec-1592a-mod.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 12 Jun 2013 03:48:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am looking at adding a couple of separated outputs from this mixer/amp to get a little more use out if it.   I know this will bypass the tone controls and master volume, im ok with that. 
 
Is it...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am looking at adding a couple of separated outputs from this mixer/amp to get a little more use out if it.   I know this will bypass the tone controls and master volume, im ok with that.<br />
<br />
Is it really as easy as just taking the output from the channels volume pot and connecting it to a new output jack?  Things are rarely as easy as they seem!<br />
<br />
Are there any other considerations or mods that should be done while at it? <br />
<br />
Any one with experience with these units? <br />
<br />
Great thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>enginefire</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/845010-altec-1592a-mod.html</guid>
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			<title>Controlling cv through soundcard</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844945-controlling-cv-through-soundcard.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 22:34:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Anyone know if it's possible to control a synth using a signal from a daw? 
 
What does a cv signal sound like? 
 
I don't really want to fork out £150 for a Kenton pro.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Anyone know if it's possible to control a synth using a signal from a daw?<br />
<br />
What does a cv signal sound like?<br />
<br />
I don't really want to fork out £150 for a Kenton pro.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Jonny3snareS</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844945-controlling-cv-through-soundcard.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Otari MX-5050 Capstan Lubricant</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844943-otari-mx-5050-capstan-lubricant.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 22:17:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I just picked up an Otari 1/2" 8 track, and as I am beginning to check it out and set it up I noticed that in the manual they call for Anderol #456 lubricating oil for the capstan. I was wondering if...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just picked up an Otari 1/2&quot; 8 track, and as I am beginning to check it out and set it up I noticed that in the manual they call for Anderol #456 lubricating oil for the capstan. I was wondering if anyone has a recommendation for an equivalent. I looked online and found the Anderol, but I really don't envision me using a 5 gallon bucket in my lifetime. (The minimum quantity available that I found.) <br />
Any suggestions and sources would be greatly appreciated. <br />
I bought this primarily to transfer my old tapes into PT. <br />
Thank you,<br />
   Steve McDonald</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>extendedplay</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844943-otari-mx-5050-capstan-lubricant.html</guid>
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			<title>Anybody modifies Urei la4 in europe?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844822-anybody-modifies-urei-la4-europe.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 13:23:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi everybody,  
I'm quite embarrassed as this is my first thread here on GS shiee, but i need to know whether:  
IS THERE ANYBODY WHO DOES MODIFY THE UREI LA4 HERE IN EUROPE? confoosed 
I know in the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi everybody, <br />
I'm quite embarrassed as this is my first thread here on GS shiee, but i need to know whether: <br />
IS THERE ANYBODY WHO DOES MODIFY THE UREI LA4 HERE IN EUROPE? confoosed<br />
I know in the US there're a lot, I could for sure mention the great job made by living legends like Eddie Ciletti, Jim Williams, Bobby Alach or on Ebay i saw Reviveaudio, but here in the old europe?<br />
If somebody has any contact please share it with me, I would be happy to service and modify my La4s...I'm based in Germany anyway and would be happy to save some money on shipping (shipping back and forth to us is quite expensive if you care about your gears) and overall to save the deal with customs, that's always a battle :facepalm:<br />
Many thanks in advance<br />
Have a nice day<br />
Gianni yingyang</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>ninGiaBoom</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844822-anybody-modifies-urei-la4-europe.html</guid>
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			<title>dbx 165 noisy - repair or replace vca?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844779-dbx-165-noisy-repair-replace-vca.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 08:24:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello! 
 
A friend showed me his vintage dbx165. Although working it is a lot more noisy than his other units so we figure there is something wrong with it. 
 
Another tech suspected the VCA-Black...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello!<br />
<br />
A friend showed me his vintage dbx165. Although working it is a lot more noisy than his other units so we figure there is something wrong with it.<br />
<br />
Another tech suspected the VCA-Black Box. (and i assume he already checked the supply)<br />
<br />
I have not yet looked into it to see if there is increased noise before or just after the VCA, but since the rest of the signal path seems to be made of 5532 opamps i could imagine that some transistor in the vca has gone bad.<br />
<br />
I have attached a picture, unfortunately the black box is not labled. You can estemate the size by the dip8 opamp above it.<br />
<br />
Anyone know exactly what this is?<br />
a 202? In the shematic for the 165A i found it sais 202r but i am not sure if this applies to all dbx165 units.<br />
<br />
Also, do you think it is reasonable to start swapping transistors in the vca module? Since gain reduction is working it might be that the gain cell with it´s mathed transistors is still working?<br />
Or should we try to get a replacement?<br />
Again, first i need to know what this box contains exactly.<br />
<br />
PS i have read about using modern THAT chips instead, but we want to keep it as orignial as possible.</div>


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	<td><a href="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/attachments/geekslutz-forum/348917d1370938910-dbx-165-noisy-repair-replace-vca-165a-schematic.pdf">165A Schematic.pdf</a> (73.5 KB)</td>
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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>jrp</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844779-dbx-165-noisy-repair-replace-vca.html</guid>
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			<title>Passive ribbons mic have xlr connection..</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844639-passive-ribbons-mic-have-xlr-connection.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 20:46:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>and yes the possibility of taking phantom power from a balanced cable If we mistake and maybe blow their ribbons.. 
 
Why they not have some unbalanced mono connection or unbalanced cable...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>and yes the possibility of taking phantom power from a balanced cable If we mistake and maybe blow their ribbons..<br />
<br />
Why they not have some unbalanced mono connection or unbalanced cable incorporated that not transmit the 48v ?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>ANALogic</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844639-passive-ribbons-mic-have-xlr-connection.html</guid>
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			<title>Tweed Champ 5F1 String Shock HELP!</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844570-tweed-champ-5f1-string-shock-help.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 16:43:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I bought a 1954 Fender Champ, 5F1 circuit, and in transit the fuse case broke.   So being i've worked on several amps in the past, I bought a new one and installed it.  One half of the power cable...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I bought a 1954 Fender Champ, 5F1 circuit, and in transit the fuse case broke.   So being i've worked on several amps in the past, I bought a new one and installed it.  One half of the power cable went to the power switch\volume knob, and the other to the top fuse case connection &amp; an Astron capacitor.  The second connection on the fuse case went to ground. <br />
<br />
All the connections are soldered right, but when I plugged in the amp, before I even turned on the switch I got a pretty serious jolt through the strings on my guitar, which I was holding when I plugged the power cable in.   Does anyone have an idea as to what could be wrong?  I don't even want to plug it in before I get some opinions, but the first thing I'll probably do is put a multi-meter on the chassis and check to see if there is voltage running through it.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>bubingaisgod</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844570-tweed-champ-5f1-string-shock-help.html</guid>
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			<title>What references do you know of for microphone design</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844440-what-references-do-you-know-microphone-design.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 02:50:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am looking for books, or online references for information about microphone design and production.Thanks!</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am looking for books, or online references for information about microphone design and production.Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Aaronf8</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844440-what-references-do-you-know-microphone-design.html</guid>
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			<title>My Tc M2000 went up in smoke</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844290-my-tc-m2000-went-up-smoke.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 12:52:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi! 
 
My M2000 died on me. 
I can see where the problem is. But I am having a hard time finding the right capacitor. 
 
The 3 other ones in the photo says 
"226 20K 650" So I guess it is the same...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi!<br />
<br />
My M2000 died on me.<br />
I can see where the problem is. But I am having a hard time finding the right capacitor.<br />
<br />
The 3 other ones in the photo says<br />
&quot;226 20K 650&quot; So I guess it is the same one as those I am looking for.<br />
<br />
Any one know where I can buy a new one, and witch one I need?</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Therion</dc:creator>
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			<title>Building a custom 500 series rack. PSUs.</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844255-building-custom-500-series-rack-psus.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 07:59:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Feel free to tell me I'm an idiot or something. But I want to build a custom 500 series enclosure into a piece of studio furniture. I can handle the soldering / connectors / chassis etc and are going...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Feel free to tell me I'm an idiot or something. But I want to build a custom 500 series enclosure into a piece of studio furniture. I can handle the soldering / connectors / chassis etc and are going to build some CAPI modules to go into it.<br />
<br />
Can I 'get away' with using / adapting relatively cheap PSU's off ebay like the ones below to supply the 16v and 48v supplies for the modules? - and if not why and would you have any suggestions for alternative PSU's.<br />
<br />
I'm in New Zealand and everything costs way too much money over here. Hence looking to go the DIY route if possible.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-3-3A-150W-AC-DC-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-/110979089561?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item19d6de8499" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">48V 3 3A 150W AC DC Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply | eBay</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PA-300-PA300-16V-2-4A-SWITCHING-Power-Supply-AC-ADAPTER-for-YAMAHA-/290923492071?pt=US_Power_Supplies&amp;hash=item43bc6432e7" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">New PA 300 PA300 16V 2 4A Switching Power Supply AC Adapter for Yamaha | eBay</a></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Craig32768</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Need help with ADAM Sub1 amp</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844208-need-help-adam-sub1-amp.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 01:12:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi Geekslutz! 
 
I have an ADAM Sub one subwoofer from many years ago, they're not made anymore. It is a 200W amp that powers (2) front-loaded 10" drivers. 
 
For as long as I have had it, the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi Geekslutz!<br />
<br />
I have an ADAM Sub one subwoofer from many years ago, they're not made anymore. It is a 200W amp that powers (2) front-loaded 10&quot; drivers.<br />
<br />
For as long as I have had it, the internal crossover has not been usable due to a hum that is inevitably there in the satellites (ADAM S3A's). Worse in the left side than in the right.<br />
<br />
I have, over the years, used bass management systems like the M&amp;K LFE4 and the Blue Sky BMC MK3 to use the sub in stereo and surround, although nowadays I'm not doing much surround.<br />
<br />
Thing is, I'm using an SSL Matrix console, and the above is another added layer of gear between me and the sound. Also, those controller's x-over points are fixed at 80Hz. My ADAM sub can x-over down to 50Hz., which is where I would love to be.<br />
<br />
Without boring you with the details, I've managed to figure out that the source of the hum is likely from the Sub One amp's transformer, in proximity to the X-over electronics..<br />
<br />
Is there anything I can do to remove/extend/isolate the transformer from the rest of the electronics, or alternatively, is there any way to put up a physical shield of some kind?<br />
<br />
I really like the results I get from the Sub One electronics, minus the hum of course, so any advice would be helpful. I will attach a couple pics of the amp here:</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Killahurts</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844208-need-help-adam-sub1-amp.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Amp cleans up on full volume</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844150-amp-cleans-up-full-volume.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 08 Jun 2013 20:19:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi there! 
 
Just finished a 18 watt plexi-style amp kit from tubeampdoctor. I sounds great, but when I had the opportunity to crank the thing it started acting wierd. Between, say, 8 to 9 on the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi there!<br />
<br />
Just finished a 18 watt plexi-style amp kit from tubeampdoctor. I sounds great, but when I had the opportunity to crank the thing it started acting wierd. Between, say, 8 to 9 on the volume knob it produces hissing/white noise, and at 10 the thing gets much quieter and cleans up :S<br />
<br />
I've checked all solder joints, they seem fine. Does anyone have a clue about what could be wrong?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>muppletification</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844150-amp-cleans-up-full-volume.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Fairchild 661tl Mod?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844138-fairchild-661tl-mod.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 08 Jun 2013 18:48:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Just got these! Fairchild 661tl gates? Read somewhere that they could be modded into little compressor units? 
 
 
 
Anyone know anyone that did? I got 'em for a good price so am interested to make...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Just got these! Fairchild 661tl gates? Read somewhere that they could be modded into little compressor units?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Anyone know anyone that did? I got 'em for a good price so am interested to make use of 'em..<br />
<br />
there's a link to some pics of the whole manual and someone else doing a racking job on one here: <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/31603983@N05/sets/72157629323894609/with/6878669895/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">fairchild 661TL - a set on Flickr</a><br />
<br />
<br />
But if anyone know's anything about the mod or can understand it from the manual in the pcs linked, i'd love to hear from you and be very grateful!<br />
<br />
<br />
Thanx.<br />
<br />
<br />
Zz.</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Agzilla</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844138-fairchild-661tl-mod.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Makbook Pro Ivy 2012 15" Audio Clicks and Pops during operation in Ableton and Logic]]></title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844056-makbook-pro-ivy-2012-15-audio-clicks-pops-during-operation-ableton-logic.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 08 Jun 2013 12:27:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Dear all 
 
I bought my MD Pro 15" on i7 Ivy Bridge some months ago. I am facing a disastrous problem which is a clicks and pops of audio when I am operting Ableton or Logic.  It does not depend on...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Dear all<br />
<br />
I bought my MD Pro 15&quot; on i7 Ivy Bridge some months ago. I am facing a disastrous problem which is a clicks and pops of audio when I am operting Ableton or Logic.  It does not depend on how many tracks I have open or how many instruments I am using. <br />
<br />
For example I may have one loop playing from one audio track with filter and reverb native plugins. Then I am adding a new plugin to the track and the audio makes a click. Then I drag and drop sample into the plugin and the audio makes click. So it seems like every time the system exchanges data with HDD audio makes click. I am sure that it may only be related to hardware problems, but it will be so hard to prove in Macstore that it is indeed a hardware problem. I do not know what to do. <br />
<br />
Did anyone experience anything similar.<br />
<br />
Or maybe I am getting something wrong and I should expect audio to click sometimes. <br />
<br />
I strongly remember that I did not have such problem in pervious Macs. e.g. my Macbook Pro 15&quot; 2006 or my Hackintosh built around Core 2 Quad Q9545. <br />
<br />
Please help.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>alexandrive</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/844056-makbook-pro-ivy-2012-15-audio-clicks-pops-during-operation-ableton-logic.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Vox vfs5</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843934-vox-vfs5.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 22:21:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a nice compact little VT30 that does most of what I need for a Guitar amp.  I only use about 3 patches, so I bought a VFS5 to make switching between songs in a performance easier (I'm already...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font face="comic sans ms"><font color="indigo"><br />
I have a nice compact little VT30 that does most of what I need for a Guitar amp.  I only use about 3 patches, so I bought a VFS5 to make switching between songs in a performance easier (I'm already tap-dancing on the pedalboard).<br />
<br />
But, the designers at Korg saved a few to many pennies on the system, I think.  In noisy electrical environments, I get occasional un-wanted patch changes....<br />
<br />
From what I can find so far, it looks like the &quot;bank&quot; selects a DC voltage and &quot;1-4&quot; momentarily drop the voltage to select a patch from the bank.  It also looks like there is no buffer on board the pedal - the crux of my inquiry....<br />
<br />
I have been unable to get any info on the Amp end of the interface.<br />
<br />
Here is what I found on the footswitch itself:<br />
<a href="http://www.whitelamp.com/public/vox_vfs5.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Vox VFS5 foot switch for Vox VT15 and Vox VT30 - schematic circuit diagram</a><br />
<br />
Has anyone sucessfully made this more robust?  As it stands now, the thing isn't reliable enough to use for a performance.  And, I'd rather not have to goto the amp between songs.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
-tINY<br />
<br />
</font></font></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>tINY</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843934-vox-vfs5.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>What is the Lowest Noise/ Cleanest sounding Op Amp I could use?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843855-what-lowest-noise-cleanest-sounding-op-amp-i-could-use.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 16:00:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, So I wanted to have a go at building a basic Pre-Amp this one to be precise <a href="http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Audio/lf071_mic.htm" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Op-Amp Microphone...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, So I wanted to have a go at building a basic Pre-Amp this one to be precise <a href="http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Audio/lf071_mic.htm" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Op-Amp Microphone Preamp</a> But i was wondering if I could get a better pre amp than the one used in this diagram?<br />
<br />
Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>complex</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843855-what-lowest-noise-cleanest-sounding-op-amp-i-could-use.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>T.bone sct800 mod</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843811-t-bone-sct800-mod.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 12:19:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, 
Just searching here some good advice on modding this cheap chinese mic. 
Tube swapt and transformer change it's on The way, but i need some advice on electronic side and maybe on power supply...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
Just searching here some good advice on modding this cheap chinese mic.<br />
Tube swapt and transformer change it's on The way, but i need some advice on electronic side and maybe on power supply modding<br />
<br />
Many thanks<br />
<br />
Alex<br />
<br />
Ps.<br />
once collected some good ideas I' ll post every mod info, pix and audio files!!!!:)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>alexdinunzio80</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843811-t-bone-sct800-mod.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Ramsa WP9110 Schematic</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843796-ramsa-wp9110-schematic.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 09:42:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all - does anyone have a schematic for a Ramsa WP9110 power amplifier? Thanks in anticipation if you do... 
Mark 
<a href="http://www.facebook.com/amptechservices" target="_blank"...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all - does anyone have a schematic for a Ramsa WP9110 power amplifier? Thanks in anticipation if you do...<br />
Mark<br />
<a href="http://www.facebook.com/amptechservices" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">www.facebook.com/amptechservices</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Amptech Services</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843796-ramsa-wp9110-schematic.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Building a outboard fader for delay throws</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843704-building-outboard-fader-delay-throws.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 23:21:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello all.  Looking for help with a project idea.  I want to build an outboard remote fader to use inline with a Yamaha CL5 mixing console.  I use this console for TV music broadcasts and I would...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello all.  Looking for help with a project idea.  I want to build an outboard remote fader to use inline with a Yamaha CL5 mixing console.  I use this console for TV music broadcasts and I would like to be able to have an external fader for guest/band engineers to control the &quot;throw&quot; to their vocal delay processor.  I do not want them on the console its self due to the traffic on it, scene changes and what not so a outboard passive fader box would be perfect.  The console has the following characteristics from the manual:<br />
<br />
Outputs:  Actual Source Impedance- 75ohms<br />
Inputs:  Actual Load Impedance- 10kohms<br />
<br />
I was instructed to use a fader with a 1k value to avoid loading of the output.  The thing I am not getting in my head is that the fader is unbalanced and the source and destination are balanced so I would have to use transformers on both sides of the fader...correct?  What values do I need the input/output transformers to be?<br />
<br />
Signal flow would be:<br />
Vocal mic bussed to CL5 output connector<br />
CL5 output connector to fader box<br />
fader box back into CL5 console input (mic/line input type)<br />
<br />
<br />
I am no the most geeky on these things but I think this would be a good project for me and very beneficial for my workflow.<br />
<br />
Thanks to all in advance!!<br />
<br />
~Doug</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>liquidrum</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843704-building-outboard-fader-delay-throws.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Numark HDX Transport Adjustment Tool?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843644-numark-hdx-transport-adjustment-tool.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 19:01:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi guys, this is my first post here and I hope it finds you well. You come highly recommended from the Numark support staff I spoke with. I have a question concerning one of my 2 Numark HDX units. It...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi guys, this is my first post here and I hope it finds you well. You come highly recommended from the Numark support staff I spoke with. I have a question concerning one of my 2 Numark HDX units. It has a disc stuck in it, and according to the manual<br />
<br />
<i>&quot;If a CD is stuck and will not eject when you press the EJECT button, power off the unit, and unplug the power cable. You’ll need a special tool which looks like flat-head a screwdriver with two prongs (Philips ECG part number CR1833T, transport adjustment tool). On the bottom of the unit there is an access hole under the CD player (next to the bar code label). Insert the tool and turn it clockwise. It will take a few dozen turns to fully eject a disc.&quot;</i><br />
<br />
That's all well and good, but after almost an hour on the phone with Numark, and emailing them too, it seems this part has ceased to exist. I realize the HDX is an older unit and not supported officially by Numark any longer, but the rep was still trying to help track down this part. It's frustrating because I think if I could get the disc out without destroying the unit it would be salvageable. Upon powering up the Numark logo spins, and this is due to firmware or hard drive corruption usually, but I think the disc is blocking it from going through the boot up process as well. The unit does not recognize being hooked up USB, and I have even removed the hard drive and done a chkdsk and even a format on it in hopes it would break the loop but no such luck. <br />
<br />
I come here, as I stated earlier, from the recommendation of the rep. Any information regarding this part, or an alternative tool that would be useful to eject the disc would be amazing. I appreciate your time, thanks for reading.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>dj_ToRMeNTeD</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843644-numark-hdx-transport-adjustment-tool.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Why new synths does not have new LED screens</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843538-why-new-synths-does-not-have-new-led-screens.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 13:14:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Can't understand why all those new synths that created this days still have screens of 20 years ago casio watches , when the mobile phones have  those great color detailed screens synths looks like...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Can't understand why all those new synths that created this days still have screens of 20 years ago casio watches , when the mobile phones have  those great color detailed screens synths looks like technologi of 20 years ago.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>DiGi_TaL</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843538-why-new-synths-does-not-have-new-led-screens.html</guid>
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			<title>Ampex MM1200 - stuck in rewind upon powerup</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843500-ampex-mm1200-stuck-rewind-upon-powerup.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 08:47:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi Slutz 
 
I have owned an Ampex MM1200 for over 10 years now and when I had my old studio I used it on every drum tracking session I had and it was well maintained. I had to put it a smaller studio...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi Slutz<br />
<br />
I have owned an Ampex MM1200 for over 10 years now and when I had my old studio I used it on every drum tracking session I had and it was well maintained. I had to put it a smaller studio where it did not get any use for the last 3 years. I have been dedicating some time to firing the old girl back up and working on some old 2 inch reels I have.<br />
<br />
I have cleaned it all up and checked all the fuses are good, plugged in the remote control which has the track record ready switches (see pic) and plugged in the varispeed.<br />
<img src="http://www.recordist.com/ampex/jpg/12remote.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
Everything lights up on the actual machine, but the supply reel just spins in rewind, even with no tape threaded through the tension arms. Moving the end-of-tape arm does not stop the reel spin. Trying it with a tape on, it wants to rewind but the takeup reel is braked.<br />
<br />
I also notice no lights are on my remote control box. I have triple checked the connectors on the box and the tape machine, both seem secure.<br />
<br />
I remember this sometimes occurred when there was something wrong with the opto sensor in the tension sensor assembly, so I open it up and found that the light bulb had blown. Replaced, but the rewind issue remains.<br />
<br />
I am going to get a tech out but thought I would post this here to see if there is anything someone can remind to try, I must admit I have forgotten a lot of the tweaks I used to do to get gremlins under control!<br />
<br />
Thanks for any advice.<br />
Adam B</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>SNJ Studio</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843500-ampex-mm1200-stuck-rewind-upon-powerup.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Dbx 160sl service manual</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843498-dbx-160sl-service-manual.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 08:24:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Can someone help me finding a service manual for a dbx 160sl. It needs calibration! 
 
Thanks 
Eric</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Can someone help me finding a service manual for a dbx 160sl. It needs calibration!<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
Eric</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>slagmans</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843498-dbx-160sl-service-manual.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Wiring question</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843363-wiring-question.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 05 Jun 2013 20:38:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi guys. 
 
I have a question about wiring my console to my balanced gear. 
 
The Chilton QM1 console I have is specified in the manual to have all mono jacks, which I assume also means the direct...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi guys.<br />
<br />
I have a question about wiring my console to my balanced gear.<br />
<br />
The Chilton QM1 console I have is specified in the manual to have all mono jacks, which I assume also means the direct outs, wired as follows:<br />
<br />
Tip - Live<br />
Ring - Common<br />
Sleeve - NC (Not Connected, I assume)<br />
<br />
Can anyone tell me more about this wiring scheme?  How do I connect it to my balanced gear which is wired like this?:<br />
<br />
Tip - Live<br />
Ring - Cold<br />
Sleeve - Common<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance!<br />
<br />
Cheers :)</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Mo Facta</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843363-wiring-question.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Analog Bit Depth</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843361-analog-bit-depth.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 05 Jun 2013 20:35:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Since atomic subparticles actually possess a discrete charge (e = 1.602 x 10^-19), am I correct in thinking that voltage in the analog world is actually quantized and therefore analog has an inherent...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Since atomic subparticles actually possess a discrete charge (e = 1.602 x 10^-19), am I correct in thinking that voltage in the analog world is actually quantized and therefore analog has an inherent bit depth relative to the signal level?<br />
<br />
Say you take a reference point of +24dBu. Is it correct to think that if I did some math and used the charge of a single electron to divide the corresponding voltage (12.276529876) by that charge (?) that I could take log(base2) of that number to calculate bit depth? Or am I way off here?<br />
<br />
Hoping you physicists/engineers can bring me up to speed on this... thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Arande2</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843361-analog-bit-depth.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Roland RE-201 Space Echo repair</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843345-roland-re-201-space-echo-repair.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 05 Jun 2013 19:51:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello board, 
 
I've got a RE-201 that's not working properly. Reverb works fine and but  echo will only passthrough the dry signal - no echo added. 
Mechanics work fine although tape heads need...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello board,<br />
<br />
I've got a RE-201 that's not working properly. Reverb works fine and but  echo will only passthrough the dry signal - no echo added.<br />
Mechanics work fine although tape heads need further cleaning and I'll change the tape loop.<br />
<br />
I'm suspecting there's something up with the echo board (bad caps?) and I'm getting help troubleshooting it.<br />
<br />
Now, to the (maybe dumb?) question, how do I open the unit to access the circuit boards? I found no information on this in the service manual.<br />
<br />
Do I need to unmount it from its casing or can I simply open it up from the top only? And whatever the answer, how? I feel I should rather ask here before going wild with the screwdriver.<br />
<br />
Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>gs1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843345-roland-re-201-space-echo-repair.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>best midi controller for beatmaker 2?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843038-best-midi-controller-beatmaker-2-a.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 19:07:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am just starting to get into the whole use of looping and such. 
 
I have an ipad mini and I use BeatMaker2, but I'm tired of doing it all without a controller. 
 
I like the akai synth station 49,...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am just starting to get into the whole use of looping and such.<br />
<br />
I have an ipad mini and I use BeatMaker2, but I'm tired of doing it all without a controller.<br />
<br />
I like the akai synth station 49, but the drumpad is only 3x3 whereas the BM2 pad is 4x4, so then I found the Korg microKontrol had 4x4. But I'm not sure about the Korg-BM2 interaction. I haven't found anyone saying that they have been able to do BM2 with the KmK.<br />
<br />
Even with the Akai SS49 I would need MidiBridge, so i don't mind doing some extras to make it work. But I don't want to drop a bunch of money and find that it doesn't work if y'all can tell me from experience.<br />
<br />
So, basic question: can the Korg microKontrol hook up to and work with an iPad mini using BeatMaker2?<br />
<br />
Secondary question: if not or if there is a better option, what is it?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>princevince13</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843038-best-midi-controller-beatmaker-2-a.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Panasonic SV 4100 DAT Hour meter</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843022-panasonic-sv-4100-dat-hour-meter.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 18:06:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
 
Does anybody know how to check the hours on a SV 4100 DAT machine. 
 
Please advise. 
 
Magnet</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
<br />
Does anybody know how to check the hours on a SV 4100 DAT machine.<br />
<br />
Please advise.<br />
<br />
Magnet</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>magnet</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/843022-panasonic-sv-4100-dat-hour-meter.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Problem change voltage UAD 1176Ln first issue</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842976-problem-change-voltage-uad-1176ln-first-issue.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 14:37:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi 
 
I have a problem with the IEC mains inlet of the Uad 1176 Ln 
 
The serial is 902 and this models dont have the switch in the rear panel like the new ones, the IEC if you put out you can see...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi<br />
<br />
I have a problem with the IEC mains inlet of the Uad 1176 Ln<br />
<br />
The serial is 902 and this models dont have the switch in the rear panel like the new ones, the IEC if you put out you can see that is 115v on the top and I need to change to 230v, on the sides you can see 250v in the left and 230v in the right but I can not put out the green plastic and change the voltage.<br />
<br />
I bought this in Usa and the seller dont sent me a manual and the manual that i can find is from new versions, so if somebody have the original manual or they know how to do it, I will be very grateful to whoever can help me.<br />
<br />
<br />
Thnak you and best regards</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Portubong</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842976-problem-change-voltage-uad-1176ln-first-issue.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Schematic for KRK E8 Monitors</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842867-schematic-krk-e8-monitors.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 02:51:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Does anyone have a schematic for the original E8 Expose' monitors from KRK?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Does anyone have a schematic for the original E8 Expose' monitors from KRK?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Panelhead</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842867-schematic-krk-e8-monitors.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>MPK Mini usb port replacement</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842866-mpk-mini-usb-port-replacement.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 02:40:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So got a mpk mini, and wouldnt you know it, the mini usb port breaks the saem day i get it hjghfgg  
 
SO I have 3 questions: 
 
1. Where can i find the right part for it? ievery one i have seen is...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So got a mpk mini, and wouldnt you know it, the mini usb port breaks the saem day i get it hjghfgg <br />
<br />
SO I have 3 questions:<br />
<br />
1. Where can i find the right part for it? ievery one i have seen is upside down compared to the one on the mini.<br />
<br />
2. is it even possible? <br />
<br />
3. Would someone like to fix it (for a price of course.)?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Lyncaster</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842866-mpk-mini-usb-port-replacement.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Speakon to XLR Adapter Query.</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842713-speakon-xlr-adapter-query.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 03 Jun 2013 16:42:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, I have just bought a new pa &amp; mixer with powered speakers. 
 
My old system used passive speakers with speakon cables that connected into a subwoofer. 
 
Now, my idea is to use the old passive...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, I have just bought a new pa &amp; mixer with powered speakers.<br />
<br />
My old system used passive speakers with speakon cables that connected into a subwoofer.<br />
<br />
Now, my idea is to use the old passive satellite speakers as monitors.<br />
<br />
So, I'm thinking speakon cable connected to the 'monitors' (well, old satellite speakers really), then into my mixer.<br />
<br />
So, I will need to use an adapter of some kind to connect the speakon cables to the xlr input on my mixer.<br />
<br />
So, that will be a speakon to XLR adapter if I'm right? The end of the adapter will need to have the male xlr pins to put into the female xlr input of my mixer?<br />
<br />
Is that correct? Will that work?<br />
<br />
If someone could point me to a link/pic of the adapter in question, I'd be really grateful!<br />
<br />
Thanks guys:-)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>scottishcammy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842713-speakon-xlr-adapter-query.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Otari MTR 90 I / II Swappable?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842458-otari-mtr-90-i-ii-swappable.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 02 Jun 2013 18:39:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I was wondering if anybody can tell me if any/all parts on a Otari MTR 90 MK I can be swapped out with a MK II? 
 
Thanks, 
 
Paul</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I was wondering if anybody can tell me if any/all parts on a Otari MTR 90 MK I can be swapped out with a MK II?<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Paul</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Paulonbass</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842458-otari-mtr-90-i-ii-swappable.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Otari MX-70 Complete Service Manual</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842393-otari-mx-70-complete-service-manual.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 02 Jun 2013 13:48:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello tape experts, 
Does someone have a complete Otari MX-70 PDF manual with schematics  for me? 
I downloaded a free manual but the last chapters are missing..... 
thanks in advance!</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello tape experts,<br />
Does someone have a complete Otari MX-70 PDF manual with schematics  for me?<br />
I downloaded a free manual but the last chapters are missing.....<br />
thanks in advance!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Twangcat</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842393-otari-mx-70-complete-service-manual.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>High quality Electrolytics/Resistors/Film Caps</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842354-high-quality-electrolytics-resistors-film-caps.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 02 Jun 2013 08:59:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Can someone tell me where to buy high quality parts for modding? I want to recap a couple of my interfaces, but I want to get some really good caps that will open things up a bit, and make the units...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Can someone tell me where to buy high quality parts for modding? I want to recap a couple of my interfaces, but I want to get some really good caps that will open things up a bit, and make the units sound much better.<br />
<br />
Also, does anyone know what Black Lion Audio is talking about when they refer to &quot;conversion decoupling&quot; ? I'm not sure I understand what that means, but I would love to know, maybe it's something that I can do when I'm upgrading my interfaces if it's not to hard. <br />
<br />
Thanks!!!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>JeromeMason</dc:creator>
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		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Power problems? Gear keeps blowing up!</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842323-power-problems-gear-keeps-blowing-up.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 02 Jun 2013 03:59:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi there, 
 
Lately I've been having some problems with gear I've got plugged in in my bedroom. I live in a fairly old house. The other day I noticed a strange electronic burning smell in my room...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi there,<br />
<br />
Lately I've been having some problems with gear I've got plugged in in my bedroom. I live in a fairly old house. The other day I noticed a strange electronic burning smell in my room then a day or two later my Motu 828mkIII wouldn't turn on. I took it down to a local repair shop and he replaced a few transistors and capacitors that had blown. He said it was a power related problem but I get the feeling he really doesn't know. <br />
<br />
So while he was fixing that I borrowed my friends 8pre and was doing some recording or whatever and my brand new golden page pre73 started smoking! Smoke was coming out the front of the unit! The clipping lights were also maxed out all the way to red like I was overloading the pre, but I wasn't. I noticed this before it started smoking. The unit still turned on however. Anyway, my friend who knows a lil bit about electronics identified a capacitor that had blown. We replaced it but still the same problem with the clipping. I took it back to the store I bought it from. Hopefully they can fix/replace it. <br />
<br />
To be on the safe side, I bought some surge/spike protecting power boards as seen <a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MS4037" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">here</a> but my motu 828mkIII just blew again! <br />
<br />
Anyway, I'm wondering what is causing this stuff to fail? I've had the motu for over a year and it's always been fine. My last house never had any problems like this, but then I've been using stuff at this house for over a year with no issues either. It's just lately these two units have blown. I don't know if it's OK to plug other stuff in or what. So annoying! It's also costing me a fortune. :facepalm: hjghfgg<br />
<br />
I live in Australia, so we have 240v power. I assume the principles are the same though.<br />
<br />
Thanks for reading and hopefully someone can shed some light so I can get back to recording my sweet rock music!<br />
<br />
Ham</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>mishisle</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842323-power-problems-gear-keeps-blowing-up.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA['67 Fender Showman question]]></title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842303-67-fender-showman-question.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 02 Jun 2013 02:01:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have this amp and have done some updates to it. Among them are a grounded power cable and removal of the death cap. However, I've noticed that I now get a hum when I hook it up to my Guild Starfire...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have this amp and have done some updates to it. Among them are a grounded power cable and removal of the death cap. However, I've noticed that I now get a hum when I hook it up to my Guild Starfire bass with Alembic Series II electronics. I'm wondering if perhaps I should reverse the  AC leads in the Showman. I didn't think there would be any polarity issues, but maybe there are given that the bass requires an AC power supply. When using a regular passive or battery powered bass, there are no issues.<br />
<br />
Worth a shot?<br />
<br />
TIA<br />
Edwin</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>edwinhurwitz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842303-67-fender-showman-question.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Fender Twin Reverb with reverb issue</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842262-fender-twin-reverb-reverb-issue.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 01 Jun 2013 21:26:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello 
 
I´m having a trouble with my 65 reissue Twin Reverb.  
The reverb is not working. I´ve done the following: 
 
- Tested reverb pan, measuring DC resistance and taping in the reverb send...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello<br />
<br />
I´m having a trouble with my 65 reissue Twin Reverb. <br />
The reverb is not working. I´ve done the following:<br />
<br />
- Tested reverb pan, measuring DC resistance and taping in the reverb send cable. All good, according to specs and a noise is audible when taping the wire. Also controlable with the reverb knob. So i presume that reverb recovery and reverb pan are ok.<br />
<br />
- Reverb recovery transformer also good and according to specs.<br />
<br />
Acording to Fender manual schematics test points:<br />
- Mesuring test point nº 6 ( Tube 2B plate, i got 195V rather then the 3,1V)<br />
- Mesuring test point nº 7 ( Tube 3 grid, i got 18mV rather then the 2,0V)<br />
- Mesuring test point nº 9 ( Tube 3 plate, i got 461V rather then the 67V)<br />
- Mesuring test point nº 13 ( Tube 4A plate, i got 190V rather then the 110mV)<br />
<br />
Should i change the 12AT7 tube?<br />
<br />
Anything on this?<br />
<br />
Thanks a lot guys<br />
Cheers<br />
Mário</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Mario Leite</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842262-fender-twin-reverb-reverb-issue.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Trident 80c External Talkback</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842046-trident-80c-external-talkback.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 31 May 2013 21:05:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey all, 
I'm trying to add in a 2Q system for use with our Trident 80c. 
 
I'm only trying to have the 2Q system activate the "Studio" talkback, not the "Slate" or "Aux".  
 
I'm using a DS2E relay...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey all,<br />
I'm trying to add in a 2Q system for use with our Trident 80c.<br />
<br />
I'm only trying to have the 2Q system activate the &quot;Studio&quot; talkback, not the &quot;Slate&quot; or &quot;Aux&quot;. <br />
<br />
I'm using a DS2E relay that is picking up 5v from the console. The relay in the 2Q is working fine and shorting the pins as it should, I have that coming into the console as well. I have the 2Q shorting the 2 pins together that then send 5v from the console to the DS2E. I have verified that the 5v is getting to the correct terminals on the DS2E.<br />
<br />
After this, I'm a bit lost. I'm not sure which terminals from the DS2E connect to which terminals on the &quot;Studio&quot; talkback switch.<br />
<br />
Anyone been through this or care to help me read the 80c's schematic? <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>cm231805</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842046-trident-80c-external-talkback.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Sony C37a XLR pinout?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842038-sony-c37a-xlr-pinout.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 31 May 2013 20:32:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys - we're trying to repair the XLR adapter for the output from the CP2 power supply to our C37a's. Unfortunately enough wires broke inside that we couldn't tell how it originally was. 
 
We...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys - we're trying to repair the XLR adapter for the output from the CP2 power supply to our C37a's. Unfortunately enough wires broke inside that we couldn't tell how it originally was.<br />
<br />
We tried pin-to-pin (pin 1 to pin 1 on xlr, 2 to 2 on xlr, etc) and huuuuuge 60hz noise is all the mic is outputting.<br />
<br />
From this schematic: <a href="http://www.rcrowley.com/SonyC37/images/diag.gif" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.rcrowley.com/SonyC37/images/diag.gif</a><br />
... I thought that the top middle pin (pin 2) is ground, but I'm unsure. Any help would be much appreciated.<br />
<br />
Also, what is that 3-pin connector called?<br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>rcb4t2</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842038-sony-c37a-xlr-pinout.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Need advice on possible ground issue with outbaord</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842037-need-advice-possible-ground-issue-outbaord.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 31 May 2013 20:23:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello, all. This is my first post on the forum. 
 
I was recently contracted to build a private studio, selecting gear and wiring it all up. Though I've been an engineer for about 12 years, my prior...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello, all. This is my first post on the forum.<br />
<br />
I was recently contracted to build a private studio, selecting gear and wiring it all up. Though I've been an engineer for about 12 years, my prior studio wiring experience is quite limited. This was by far, the biggest wiring job I have done.<br />
<br />
The studio is built on a private facility with an HD Native Thunderbolt as our main workstation. The outboard gear is a beautiful collection of boutique units, such as Shadow Hills, Mercury, etc. Also we have 4 10unit 500 racks, 3 from Purple, and 1 from API, with quite a nice variety of 500 toys to play with.<br />
Each of the 3 outboard racks are being powered by one of these:<br />
Furman P-1800 PF R | Sweetwater.com<br />
<br />
I've been having an issue that I've never seen at any other studio and I'm not completely sure why it's happening.<br />
<br />
When my outboard gear is turned on, but not patched in, it appears as if most of my units are overloading. The VU meters, whether lights or needles will spike, and sometimes even waver back and forth. Some of the 500 units will acutally make whining or clicking noises inside the units.<br />
For the mic pres, this is only in Mic mode. If I switch to line in, the problem goes away. For compressors, I just have to switch to bypass.<br />
<br />
So as long as I turn the units to line or bypass, it's not an issue.  Also, once the unit is patched in via the bay, the problem goes away.  Still, it's bothering me because I've never seen this happen anywhere else, and I'm concerned it may be a ground issue with the entire building. Again, this is my first time taking on a wiring job this big, so I'm not sure if there's a step I'm missing. I was under the impression that those little furman power conditioners would help with any clean/dirty power issues, but do I have to get a main power conditioner for the entire building?<br />
<br />
Any advice would be a big help. Thanks in advance, gearslutz!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>KaonoMedia</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/842037-need-advice-possible-ground-issue-outbaord.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Otari MX 70 brake problem</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841984-otari-mx-70-brake-problem.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 31 May 2013 16:00:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello Tape machine experts, 
 
I have recently bought an Otari MX 70 in good shape, but there's a problem with the take up reel brake. When spooling forward and pressing stop, the take up reel won't...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello Tape machine experts,<br />
<br />
I have recently bought an Otari MX 70 in good shape, but there's a problem with the take up reel brake. When spooling forward and pressing stop, the take up reel won't stop immediately and the tape is loosing its tension and isn't winding on the take up reel properly.<br />
<br />
Sorry for my English - but maybe you did understand waht I mean....<br />
<br />
Any suggestions for this problem?<br />
<br />
thanks in advance<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/dscf00058tsdx0j73z.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Twangcat</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841984-otari-mx-70-brake-problem.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>open gefell m94 capsule</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841964-open-gefell-m94-capsule.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 31 May 2013 14:31:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello, 
 
I own a M94 capsule that outputs no sound anymore. It used to work just fine... 
I measure 17 ohms between the connectors with a normal multimeter. Normal value? i thought it should be...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,<br />
<br />
I own a M94 capsule that outputs no sound anymore. It used to work just fine...<br />
I measure 17 ohms between the connectors with a normal multimeter. Normal value? i thought it should be infinite resistance (?).<br />
<br />
The body and psu are working fine, with my UM70 i got normal sound.<br />
<br />
Anybody know how these capsules can be opened? I would like to take a look if anything can be seen by eye.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>jrp</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841964-open-gefell-m94-capsule.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Dominator 720 tripping</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841947-dominator-720-tripping.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 31 May 2013 13:18:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My Dominator is tripping fuses of late,  
(250v Slo 3AG #F2534-ND Digi-Key) and I'm not sure where to start under the hood. Any suggestions for troubleshooting? 
Good cable, good AC 
 
Mark]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My Dominator is tripping fuses of late, <br />
(250v Slo 3AG #F2534-ND Digi-Key) and I'm not sure where to start under the hood. Any suggestions for troubleshooting?<br />
Good cable, good AC<br />
<br />
Mark</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>soundmark</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841947-dominator-720-tripping.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help! Signal dropping when preamp is in my patchbay (Tube transformer issue)</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841823-help-signal-dropping-when-preamp-my-patchbay-tube-transformer-issue.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 30 May 2013 22:04:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm looking for help, a friend has built a nice tube preamp that has a Jensen tube transformer output. When I plug the preamp in to my patchbay, the output level drops by about 30 db. I have never...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm looking for help, a friend has built a nice tube preamp that has a Jensen tube transformer output. When I plug the preamp in to my patchbay, the output level drops by about 30 db. I have never had an issue like this with any of my other preamps or other outboard gear.<br />
<br />
When I plug it straight in to my Burl B2 ADC via XLR to XLR cable I get a proper level (about -8db). My patchbay is balanced, but my friend thinks that somewhere in my patchbay it un-balances and then balances again, which is causing an impedance issue with the preamp's output transformer. <br />
<br />
I have tried connecting Pins 3 and 1 on my output cable, this does not change the level.<br />
<br />
I am sending tones from a Swizz Army cable tester- mic level -50 db. Straight into the Burl, I get -8db. Through my patchbay it's about -36db.<br />
<br />
Can anyone chime in with any ideas that might help? Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>zulusound</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841823-help-signal-dropping-when-preamp-my-patchbay-tube-transformer-issue.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help! Signal dropping when preamp is in my patchbay (Tube transformer issue)</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841821-help-signal-dropping-when-preamp-my-patchbay-tube-transformer-issue.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 30 May 2013 22:00:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Sorry for the double post, posted it in the wrong spot. 
 
I'm looking for help, a friend has built a nice tube preamp that has a Jensen tube transformer output.  When I plug the preamp in to my...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Sorry for the double post, posted it in the wrong spot.<br />
<br />
I'm looking for help, a friend has built a nice tube preamp that has a Jensen tube transformer output.  When I plug the preamp in to my patchbay, the output level drops by about 30 db.  I have never had an issue like this with any of my other preamps or other outboard gear.<br />
<br />
When I plug it straight in to my Burl B2 ADC via XLR to XLR cable I get a proper level (about -8db).  My patchbay is balanced, but my friend thinks that somewhere in my patchbay it un-balances and then balances again, which is causing an impedance issue with the preamp's output transformer. <br />
<br />
I have tried connecting Pins 3 and 1 on my output cable, this does not change the level.<br />
<br />
I am sending tones from a Swizz Army cable tester- mic level -50 db.  Straight into the Burl, I get -8db.  Through my patchbay it's about -36db.<br />
<br />
Can anyone chime in with any ideas that might help?  Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>zulusound</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841821-help-signal-dropping-when-preamp-my-patchbay-tube-transformer-issue.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Cleaning scratchy pots Joe Meek VC1Q</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841797-cleaning-scratchy-pots-joe-meek-vc1q.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 30 May 2013 20:39:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello!!  Can anyone recommend the best solution for cleaning pots in an older VC1Q channel strip?  I only have noise on a couple of pots, but will likely give a full once over while I have it open. ...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello!!  Can anyone recommend the best solution for cleaning pots in an older VC1Q channel strip?  I only have noise on a couple of pots, but will likely give a full once over while I have it open.  Thanks!<br />
-e<br />
<br />
Edit: I have searched the forum, but the amount of (mis) information is plentiful.  WD40, Deoxit...</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>e3p0</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841797-cleaning-scratchy-pots-joe-meek-vc1q.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Need a London repair guy</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841664-need-london-repair-guy.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 30 May 2013 09:26:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all. I recently posted on the computer part of the forum about a problem with my EMU 1820m: 
 
<a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all. I recently posted on the computer part of the forum about a problem with my EMU 1820m:<br />
<br />
<a href="!841113!http://www.gearslutz.com/board/music-computers/841113-e-mu-1820m-major-problems.html">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/music...-problems.html</a><br />
<br />
It looks very much like some of the capacitors are the problem. I'm going to open it up later and take a look. But I'm not a tekky kind of guy. I don't even own a soldering iron. <br />
<br />
So I'm looking for someone in the London, England area would could put the new caps on for me, at a reasonable price. I know it's not a very difficult job for someone who's experienced. Just need to find the right person at the right price. <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance for any help!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>JunkpileMat</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841664-need-london-repair-guy.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Passive summing mixer with full metering</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841533-passive-summing-mixer-full-metering.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 29 May 2013 20:46:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Do you think there is any interest in this or is it just me?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Do you think there is any interest in this or is it just me?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Nickbenjones</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841533-passive-summing-mixer-full-metering.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>OBx Service Manual 2nd Edition</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841447-obx-service-manual-2nd-edition.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 29 May 2013 15:25:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Does anyone have the 2nd edition of the OBx service manual I can purchase.  Been looking for ages with no luck.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Does anyone have the 2nd edition of the OBx service manual I can purchase.  Been looking for ages with no luck.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>billdish00</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841447-obx-service-manual-2nd-edition.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Shure SM57 resolder</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841380-shure-sm57-resolder.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 29 May 2013 11:16:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello all, 
 
I have recently braved the second hand market for an SM57. The good news is after all the checks of everything that's supposed to point out a fake, it would appear to be genuine...the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello all,<br />
<br />
I have recently braved the second hand market for an SM57. The good news is after all the checks of everything that's supposed to point out a fake, it would appear to be genuine...the bad news is that whilst doing so my heavy handedness has managed to snap the yellow &amp; green wires where they were soldered as I screwed the casing back together.<br />
Can someone please confirm that the green goes to the plus &amp; the yellow to where it says 'FG' so I can get it fixed, I've hunted the Internet for answers &amp; whilst most places tell me this is the case there are some who say the other way round so I'm doubting myself!<br />
<br />
Thanks muchly<br />
<br />
Andre</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>AndreBenoit</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841380-shure-sm57-resolder.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>ADAT to multiple ADAT interfaces</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841348-adat-multiple-adat-interfaces.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 29 May 2013 06:46:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I dont want to send all my 8 channels audio interface adat out to my "converter A". instead of this i want to send 4 channels to "converter A" and other 4 channels to "converter B". But this is not...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I dont want to send all my 8 channels audio interface adat out to my &quot;converter A&quot;. instead of this i want to send 4 channels to &quot;converter A&quot; and other 4 channels to &quot;converter B&quot;. But this is not possible because the adat light pipe is one cable containing 8 channels. Is there anyway to split them with separate tracks? For example... 1+2+3+4+5+6 OUT into converter A and 7+8 OUT into converter B. some kind of adat router or adat patchbay?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Eq_1084</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841348-adat-multiple-adat-interfaces.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Best option for vertical LED VU or Peak Meter</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841085-best-option-vertical-led-vu-peak-meter.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 28 May 2013 12:24:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Any ideas? 
 
I am trying to find a suitable replacement channel LED VU or peak meters for my Chilton QM1 that I am refurbishing. 
 
I've looked at Velleman kits and they look like they'll do the job...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Any ideas?<br />
<br />
I am trying to find a suitable replacement channel LED VU or peak meters for my Chilton QM1 that I am refurbishing.<br />
<br />
I've looked at Velleman kits and they look like they'll do the job but are there any pre assembled modules that I can just plug and play?  <br />
<br />
I'm new to this so please keep that in mind with your replies.<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance!<br />
<br />
Cheers :)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Mo Facta</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841085-best-option-vertical-led-vu-peak-meter.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>StudioMaster 16-8-2 Refurb Question</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841008-studiomaster-16-8-2-refurb-question.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 28 May 2013 03:41:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi Everyone! 
 
This is a subject that I can only imagine has been beat to death, but... 
 
I can't seem to find any resolution for this. 
 
I have a Studiomaster Series 5 24-8-2 ( it has an added 8...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi Everyone!<br />
<br />
This is a subject that I can only imagine has been beat to death, but...<br />
<br />
I can't seem to find any resolution for this.<br />
<br />
I have a Studiomaster Series 5 24-8-2 ( it has an added 8 channels from the model )<br />
<br />
I really need a schematic for this guy to make some repairs and upgrades.<br />
Also, I'd love to have some suggestions as to the best way to refurb this guy.<br />
<br />
I.E. - fixing bent faders, pots, suggestions for cleaning and deoxidation.<br />
<br />
I'm so new to this side of it, and I'd love to use this board to analog sum.<br />
<br />
I know that you all have so much more knowledge than I in this area, anything would help.<br />
:)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>theamericanjosh</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/841008-studiomaster-16-8-2-refurb-question.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>ART Pro VLA II Output Pots</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840866-art-pro-vla-ii-output-pots.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 27 May 2013 21:12:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Looks like we need to replace some. Does anyone point me towards some replacement options that are reliable? 
 
Unfortunately, ART is taking their time responding and I would really like to start...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Looks like we need to replace some. Does anyone point me towards some replacement options that are reliable?<br />
<br />
Unfortunately, ART is taking their time responding and I would really like to start using this compressor again since we sunk more money into having it hot-rodded than it originally cost.<br />
<br />
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>jkchuma</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840866-art-pro-vla-ii-output-pots.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Why can't my iPad recognize my Tyros?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840811-why-cant-my-ipad-recognize-my-tyros.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 27 May 2013 18:03:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have an iPad mini and a Tyros 2. Today I just bought the lightning to USB adapter to connect the iPad to the Tyros via the USB midi cable. 
 
However, when I opened Garage Band in iPad, it did not...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an iPad mini and a Tyros 2. Today I just bought the lightning to USB adapter to connect the iPad to the Tyros via the USB midi cable.<br />
<br />
However, when I opened Garage Band in iPad, it did not recognize the Tyros.<br />
<br />
Is there anything I can do?<br />
<br />
Thank you for your advice.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>troiontroi</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840811-why-cant-my-ipad-recognize-my-tyros.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>fostex rd-8</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840785-fostex-rd-8-a.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 27 May 2013 16:06:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[hittt.hi all wilmot here kid286@juno.com: bad need a schematic for fostex rd-8 adat..unit comes on led's blink.there is a clicking sound. not shure where to look for problem.possibley in power supple...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hittt.hi all wilmot here <a href="mailto:kid286@juno.com">kid286@juno.com</a>: bad need a schematic for fostex rd-8 adat..unit comes on led's blink.there is a clicking sound. not shure where to look for problem.possibley in power supple or else where. if anyone has schematic please e-mail thanks wilmot</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>wilmot</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840785-fostex-rd-8-a.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Line 6 DL4 help</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840759-line-6-dl4-help.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 27 May 2013 14:05:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all, 
 
I have a DL4 in for repair at the moment but seem to be going round in circles!  
 
Basically I can't switch the unit to preset "C". A,B and tap tempo switches are all working fine but...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all,<br />
<br />
I have a DL4 in for repair at the moment but seem to be going round in circles! <br />
<br />
Basically I can't switch the unit to preset &quot;C&quot;. A,B and tap tempo switches are all working fine but nothing happens when you hit the C switch, it just stays in whatever mode it's in. <br />
<br />
The unit has had the switches upgraded in the past, as per the well known switch mod. I've had the switch itself out and tested it, seems fine. I've also wired switch B (a known working switch) to the relevant pads on the board for C and still nothing. Voltages are correct and the same at all switch pads so as such I guess there's a problem further along the circuit. I've been hunting for broken traces and not found any yet.<br />
<br />
Does anyone know how the unit actually switches? Components to check? Anything really, it can't be that hard as the rest of the unit functions absolutely fine, it's driving me crazy!<br />
<br />
Thanks, hope you can help :)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>StephenHawkwind</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840759-line-6-dl4-help.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>PNP/NPN passing supply current after replacing resistors</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840660-pnp-npn-passing-supply-current-after-replacing-resistors.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 27 May 2013 03:00:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys, I replaced most of the resistors in this circuit and seemed to have landed myself into some trouble 
 
The first half of the circuit (not shown) works fine, but both channel's output op amp...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys, I replaced most of the resistors in this circuit and seemed to have landed myself into some trouble<br />
<br />
The first half of the circuit (not shown) works fine, but both channel's output op amp stage (IC7 and IC8) is outputting a lot of voltage. With no op amp installed I'm reading 15v at c13 and c14. When there is an op amp installed I'm getting around 9v. If I unmute the channels briefly Q3 and Q1 get very hot.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/4631/circwr.jpg" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/4631/circwr.jpg</a><br />
<br />
It seems the voltage is stemming from the PNP/NPN pair. At pin 11 on IC5A the voltage is 6v. The circuit functions normally at r21 and r20. All 3 legs of the transistors vary between 12-15v depending on if there is an op amp installed. I've tried replacing the op amps and transistors to no avail.<br />
<br />
The confusing bit is that both channels are exhibiting the same problem, which makes the me think the schematic is wrong? I have triple checked I installed the correct valued resistors in the correct locations. Definitely at a loss! If anyone could help me in the next steps of troubleshooting or explain to me what is happening, I would be very happy. I seemed to have landed myself in deep water! :facepalm:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>spice house</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840660-pnp-npn-passing-supply-current-after-replacing-resistors.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Ampex 300-3 rebuild/restoration</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840637-ampex-300-3-rebuild-restoration.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 27 May 2013 00:31:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>For anyone who might be interested in following along.....Ampex 300-3 restoration and rebuild project. 
 
Had always wanted one of these and this orphaned 300-3 came my way about a month ago quite by...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>For anyone who might be interested in following along.....Ampex 300-3 restoration and rebuild project.<br />
<br />
Had always wanted one of these and this orphaned 300-3 came my way about a month ago quite by surprise. Originally from Nicholson's Hi-Fi here in Nashville (a long time audio shop that had been in business since the 1940's). I am assume it was a rental, demo machine or the like back in the day. The rectifier cap is dated 1966 so I would think that's about when this guy was parked<br />
It was a mess complete with the expected mice infested housing and dirty grease covered electronics, missing and hacked up parts, etc.... so I had to completely disassemble it down to the wiring harness and start over. Just got the frame back from the powder coater...sort of a light Decca hammertone silver/green. It was supposed to be Amex Blue but that's another story...I still like the color though.<br />
Sat the Sel/Sync unit and what I have left of the transport back in it for photos after a good cleaning/removal of all the motors/everything with a bearing. Got the parts ordered from Mouser and others so I can recap etc. so this should start to go quickly now. The electronics are down with Stephen Haselton (the Jedi Master of all things technical audio) at Shoals Audio in Alabama. The Sel/Sync unit is in very good shape so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will come around. Some pics attached of how I received the unit and where it sits right now. <br />
<br />
Danny</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>16 TON</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840637-ampex-300-3-rebuild-restoration.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Replace Pro Tools Resistor?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840616-replace-pro-tools-resistor.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 26 May 2013 22:57:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all, 
 
Resistor R35 fell off my Pro Tools Core Card. 
 
Apparently it's a very common thing. 
 
Anyways, does anyone know it's part number on Mouser? I do know it's 10k 1/8w surface mount. 
...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all,<br />
<br />
Resistor R35 fell off my Pro Tools Core Card.<br />
<br />
Apparently it's a very common thing.<br />
<br />
Anyways, does anyone know it's part number on Mouser? I do know it's 10k 1/8w surface mount.<br />
<br />
part 2 of this post, anyone know someone that would fix the card with out charging an arm and a leg? Avid charges hundreds of dollars!<br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>knerd</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840616-replace-pro-tools-resistor.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Blown motherboard in mixer?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840457-blown-motherboard-mixer.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 26 May 2013 06:06:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Just bought a brand new Hercules RMX 2 dj mixer, put in the wrong adapter and boom! smokes a little and won't turn on. I opened the mixer and immediately a capacitor fell out. And there is stuff that...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Just bought a brand new Hercules RMX 2 dj mixer, put in the wrong adapter and boom! smokes a little and won't turn on. I opened the mixer and immediately a capacitor fell out. And there is stuff that looks like dead grass where the capacitor used to be. <br />
<br />
I really would love some help on how to fix this so my mixer works again, here are pictures on exactly what I'm talking about<br />
<a href="http://s1351.photobucket.com/user/Perfectionist3/media/IMG_0832_zpsd000ae37.jpg.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">IMG_0832_zpsd000ae37.jpg Photo by Perfectionist3 | Photobucket</a><br />
<br />
I really would appreciate some help. Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Perfectionist</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840457-blown-motherboard-mixer.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Value of an old keyboard I found in my basement</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840393-value-old-keyboard-i-found-my-basement.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 21:15:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi there, I couldn't find a fitting section for this so I just decided to post it here. 
 
So, I found this keyboard from the 80s in my basement. It has been down there in protection for about 5...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi there, I couldn't find a fitting section for this so I just decided to post it here.<br />
<br />
So, I found this keyboard from the 80s in my basement. It has been down there in protection for about 5 years. Its condition is pretty much flawless. The model is &quot;ELKA MK88 Master Controller Keyboard&quot;. I'm a total newbie at this stuff, so I was directed here from /mu/. <br />
Now, I'm wondering what this item is worth. I tried searching the web for someone selling a similar item but I couldn't really find anything, that's why I'm here.<br />
If you know anything about this item I would appreciate to know, but what I'm after is the value.<br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>floeff</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840393-value-old-keyboard-i-found-my-basement.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Europe tells us how loud we can play headphones!!</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840371-europe-tells-us-how-loud-we-can-play-headphones.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 19:09:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I recently purchased a pair of Sony MDR-7520 headphones which have just been discontinued. Given that, in my opinion, they are the best Sony have ever made (reviews have described them as "a new...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I recently purchased a pair of Sony MDR-7520 headphones which have just been discontinued. Given that, in my opinion, they are the best Sony have ever made (reviews have described them as &quot;a new standard in closed back headphones&quot;) I asked Sony why they had been dropped from the current range leaving the less expensive and not so good MDR-7510 as their top model. To my astonishment they told me that the 7520's did not meet Eurpean regulations for volume levels as they are capable of producing dangerous decibel levels!<br />
<br />
Can we now not decide how loud we want to play music? What about the hard of hearing who need it loud? <br />
<br />
Do they not also realize that it is not compulsory to play them loud, we can regulate that ourselves with a simple device called a volume control, but at reasonably high volumes there will be more headroom so less harmful distortion?<br />
<br />
Has the world gone completely mad?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Les Adams</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840371-europe-tells-us-how-loud-we-can-play-headphones.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Funktion One as studio monitors?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840358-funktion-one-studio-monitors.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 18:07:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm moving in a new bigger house and I will invest in new stuff for my home studio. 
 
The biggest question I have now is which studio monitors I should buy as main reference. 
 
I produce house and...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm moving in a new bigger house and I will invest in new stuff for my home studio.<br />
<br />
The biggest question I have now is which studio monitors I should buy as main reference.<br />
<br />
I produce house and techno stuff and sometime mix metal and rock for friendly bands. I use a pair of KRK Rokit 5'. <br />
<br />
I would like to invest in a pair of F1 F81 with a E-15 amp as main reference monitors for mixing production. I had read about them and some producers have good experience with them because they are the reference in club and of course for dance music. <br />
<br />
It is a good idea or I'm totally crazy? Should I invest in other monitors like Adam or Genelec?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>TheShaman</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840358-funktion-one-studio-monitors.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Chilton C25 Compressor Schematic</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840304-chilton-c25-compressor-schematic.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 11:56:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all,  
 
I know there are a few Chilton QM series console owners on here so I am here to ask for a favour. 
 
In short, I am looking for the schematics for the C25 compressor cards found in the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all, <br />
<br />
I know there are a few Chilton QM series console owners on here so I am here to ask for a favour.<br />
<br />
In short, I am looking for the schematics for the C25 compressor cards found in the QM1.  If any of you have the schematics, it would be greatly appreciated if you could send me copy of them.    <br />
<br />
If you don't have them but have working C25s, it would be even greatly appreciated it if you could pull one out for me (it's not difficult) and take front and back pictures for me.  I am going to attempt fabricating replacements for mine.  <br />
<br />
If you can offer any help please reply here or PM me.  <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance!<br />
<br />
Cheers :)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Mo Facta</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840304-chilton-c25-compressor-schematic.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Kawai k1 ii circuit</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840275-kawai-k1-ii-circuit.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 07:52:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi guys looking for a schematic, circuit or whatever for a Kawai K1 ii. 
I have acquired one with an apparent voicing issue. In poly 1 mode every second keystroke is a an overdriven version of the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi guys looking for a schematic, circuit or whatever for a Kawai K1 ii.<br />
I have acquired one with an apparent voicing issue. In poly 1 mode every second keystroke is a an overdriven version of the first. In Poly 2 mode the 3rd and 5th keystrokes are normal and the others produces various distorted or aliased sounds. In mono mode each key stroke produces the desired result. Multi mode reacts the same. Looking at the architecture of the ROMS I don't think the issue is there but more likely a ram/ shift register thing. Trouble is it is almost impossible to trace without a schematic and Kawai no longer supply it. Incidentally if midi'd to another source everything transmits as it should and all controls transmit the correct sys ex</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Soundnavigator</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840275-kawai-k1-ii-circuit.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>simple speaker selector switch question...</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840241-simple-speaker-selector-switch-question.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 02:24:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey tech slutz!.......this is probably a dumb question, but is there any reason that I could not use a high-quality DPDT switch to run audio output from a power amp (60 watts/ch) to two speaker...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey tech slutz!.......this is probably a dumb question, but is there any reason that I could not use a high-quality DPDT switch to run audio output from a power amp (60 watts/ch) to two speaker systems? A box to do just that is $30 for a cheap one. It seems it should be as simple as wiring the speaker outs from the amp like this, with the input being the LR speaker cables from the amp, and the out going to each set of speakers? Are there any issues to look out for? Thanks in advance....</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>concreteblue</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Reprogram prom with Xilinx jtag</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840211-reprogram-prom-xilinx-jtag.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 23:43:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Going to reprogram my lynx autora16. 
Struggling with Xilinx software interface with the jtag cable.  Anyone here done this before?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Going to reprogram my lynx autora16.<br />
Struggling with Xilinx software interface with the jtag cable.  Anyone here done this before?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Louis Bernstone</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Urei 1176 Meter pushbutton switch replaceable with UA?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840076-urei-1176-meter-pushbutton-switch-replaceable-ua.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 14:31:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>The studio where I work in Toronto has a Urei 1176 where the 4-button pushbutton switch for the meters is broken.  The unit still turns on but the meters are inaccessible now.   
 
Anyone know if the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The studio where I work in Toronto has a Urei 1176 where the 4-button pushbutton switch for the meters is broken.  The unit still turns on but the meters are inaccessible now.  <br />
<br />
Anyone know if the switch from a Universal Audio 1176 could be used to replace it?  I've emailed them to see if they sell a replacement part.  Just checking here to see if anyone has info.<br />
<br />
We'd prefer to fix the unit locally rather than ship it across borders, etc.<br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>nambams</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840076-urei-1176-meter-pushbutton-switch-replaceable-ua.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Prophet 5 restoration and repair help needed</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840042-prophet-5-restoration-repair-help-needed.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 10:48:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi everybody, 
 
I recently bought a P5 quite cheap to repair and restore. 
 
I have a problem that i don't understand and need some help to find how to fix it. 
 
When i trigger a note, it keeps...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi everybody,<br />
<br />
I recently bought a P5 quite cheap to repair and restore.<br />
<br />
I have a problem that i don't understand and need some help to find how to fix it.<br />
<br />
When i trigger a note, it keeps playing forever like an infinite release.<br />
( I've checked the J-wires, nothing blocked and even with unplugged keyboard or via cv/gate)<br />
It's doing this on both oscillator and all voices.<br />
<br />
What i found :<br />
<br />
-When the notes are playing forever, i change the envelope with a short decay and short sustain then i play again some notes and it stops doing this as the voices are re-triggered.<br />
<br />
-If i use the filter with cutoff below 11 o'clock and full envelope the problem is like bypassed and i can use the filter envelope like the normal VCA.<br />
Turning cutoff above 11 o'clock is making the infinite release appearing again.<br />
<br />
I was thinking of faulty CEM3310 but i cannot imagine that they're all 10 dead.<br />
I've cleaned the release pot to see if it wasn't sending wrong infos but not better.<br />
<br />
So i think that the problem comes from the VCA circuit but no idea what it could be.<br />
<br />
I'm very bad in problems finding and would really appreciate some help heh<br />
<br />
Other problems:<br />
2 voices on oscillator A are just making a high tone like high resonance.<br />
Are they dead CEM3340 or CEM3320?<br />
<br />
The square wave on both oscillators is very weak compared to others waves.<br />
Any idea?<br />
<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance for any help!kfhkhkfhkhkfhkhkfhkhkfhkhkfhkh<br />
I'm pretty excited having this P5 alive again!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>milouzzzz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840042-prophet-5-restoration-repair-help-needed.html</guid>
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			<title>Soundcraft delta 200 repair- please help me</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840031-soundcraft-delta-200-repair-please-help-me.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 09:39:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
I have a Soundcraft delta 200 for a few weeks now, and now the Master-module has a problem, and as i am not a real techhead i could really need some help! 
The problem is, that the red PFL LED...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
I have a Soundcraft delta 200 for a few weeks now, and now the Master-module has a problem, and as i am not a real techhead i could really need some help!<br />
The problem is, that the red PFL LED is constantely on, but no channel has the PFL or AFL switched on.<br />
If i switch a channel into PFL i can hear it normaly.<br />
<br />
When this first happened the sound of the mixer destorted a bit, and the volume dropt and rised in waves, and the PFL LED also started to glow in waves, until it stayed on forever......<br />
<br />
I have tested the PSU volts which are fine, and i have taken the channels out, but the problem remained, so i think it must be in the Masterchannel...:facepalm:<br />
<br />
I looked at the schematic and looked at the PFL Detector where at R67 a +10 volt should be normal(PFL off) and -0,6 volt should be PFL on,<br />
I measured -0,46 so there is the false voltage.<br />
<br />
Can someone with a better understanding give me some Tips where i should look at to solve this problem? Maybe Jim Williams, the master of Soundcraft Mixers? Has somebody had this problem?<br />
<br />
I would be really really glad if you guys could help me out a bit.<br />
With kind regards,<br />
Manuel</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Waldschwammerl</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Utilise Ensonique Paris 24 bit AD/DA converters / rack ?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/840021-utilise-ensonique-paris-24-bit-ad-da-converters-rack.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 08:51:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm currently running a MOTU 828 mkii on my studio  
And have acquired a mint condition Ensoniq Interface MEC (Modular Expansion Chassis with a to d strip, d to a strip and the mix down / I/o strip...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm currently running a MOTU 828 mkii on my studio <br />
And have acquired a mint condition Ensoniq Interface MEC (Modular Expansion Chassis with a to d strip, d to a strip and the mix down / I/o strip section. <br />
I've read that the components / converters on these were very good <br />
But the pci card computer interface and associated software <br />
Was a bit of a pig to use and mostly incompatible with many other <br />
File types, program's and systems. <br />
Is there any way to utilise the outboard rack and its I/ o strips without <br />
Using the Paris card and package ? <br />
Perhaps the rack could be used as a summing mixer ? <br />
Suggestions welcome <br />
Thanks <br />
Matt <br />
Other kit inc : <br />
SSL 5000 4 mic pre plus 4 eq rack<br />
Snow leopard macs x 3<br />
PC x2<br />
Soundcraft 24 / 8 x 1<br />
Multiple filters / compressors <br />
Teac semi parametrics x2<br />
Ashly parametric x 1 <br />
Akai samplers x 3<br />
Roland MKS80 x1<br />
Etc.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>dreadbizniz</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[Mixer eq mod help & resistor values]]></title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839954-mixer-eq-mod-help-resistor-values.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 00:34:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi Everyone, 
 
I'm planning on lifting the hood on my old phonic mixer and changing the cap values on some of the eq pots to tailor them more towards specific things ie kick drum. 
 
Can anyone...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi Everyone,<br />
<br />
I'm planning on lifting the hood on my old phonic mixer and changing the cap values on some of the eq pots to tailor them more towards specific things ie kick drum.<br />
<br />
Can anyone direct me to info on what frequencies are altered by specific value capacitors?<br />
<br />
Also can anyone point me towards a diagram that shows how to wire a sweep knob?<br />
<br />
Thanks for your time.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>skinslapper</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839954-mixer-eq-mod-help-resistor-values.html</guid>
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			<title>Old Tube Amplifiers, potentially built from a kit?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839936-old-tube-amplifiers-potentially-built-kit.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 22:34:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone, first off this is my first post so if this is in the wrong spot please let me know. I recently picked up 6 tube amps (some might be preamps, I can't really tell) for free on Craigslist....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey everyone, first off this is my first post so if this is in the wrong spot please let me know. I recently picked up 6 tube amps (some might be preamps, I can't really tell) for free on Craigslist. The guy I got them from said they belonged to his father and he assumed they were from the 40's. A few of them have some pretty bad water damage but for the most part the tubes look alright. This one in particular looks to be in the best condition. The guy mentioned that some of the amps worked in the 70's but that they hadn't seen much use since. He also said he thought they might have been built from a kit? I can't really tell one way or the other but if anyone has seen these before and has a schematic that would be awesome.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/attachments/geekslutz-forum/346405-old-tube-amplifiers-potentially-built-kit-img_1180.jpg" target="_blank" title="Name:  
Views: 
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<br />
This is a shot of the underside, I didn't notice any obvious broken wires or anything like that but I wouldn't really be surprised if any of the caps are dried out.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/attachments/geekslutz-forum/346407-old-tube-amplifiers-potentially-built-kit-img_1181.jpg" target="_blank" title="Name:  
Views: 
Size:  ">Attachment 346407</a><br />
<br />
Those 4 tubes on top are 45's, not really sure what the two chickenhead knobs control, and there are two 1/4&quot; input jacks on either side of them.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/attachments/geekslutz-forum/346408-old-tube-amplifiers-potentially-built-kit-img_1182.jpg" target="_blank" title="Name:  
Views: 
Size:  ">Attachment 346408</a><br />
<br />
Looks like a tube socket? a 1/4&quot; jack (maybe for output?) and power.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/attachments/geekslutz-forum/346409-old-tube-amplifiers-potentially-built-kit-img_1183.jpg" target="_blank" title="Name:  
Views: 
Size:  ">Attachment 346409</a><br />
<br />
The front just has this RCA jack and what looks like &quot;in&quot; written below it in red ink, so I assumed this was for input.<br />
<br />
I have 0 experience working with tube amps so even wild speculation is appreciated (encouraged!). It's a little odd to me that what seems to be the power input is female, meaning you would need a male to male power cord? Maybe I've got it all wrong, let me know!</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Gahoo</dc:creator>
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			<title>Alesis RS 150 power amp, right side no workee-- most likely culprit?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839931-alesis-rs-150-power-amp-right-side-no-workee-most-likely-culprit.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 22:12:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[This fine power amp suddenly one day wasn't passing any signal through the right channel... no trauma or other serious injury, just spontaneously quit. 
 
What "probably" is wrong? Best guesses...?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>This fine power amp suddenly one day wasn't passing any signal through the right channel... no trauma or other serious injury, just spontaneously quit.<br />
<br />
What &quot;probably&quot; is wrong? Best guesses...?</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>joelpatterson</dc:creator>
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			<title>Studer D820MCH</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839867-studer-d820mch.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 16:22:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm parting out a Studer D820MCH this week.  This is a 1/2" DASH machine, quite obsolete in this day and age, but just in case anyone is looking for parts... 
 
If you have any interest in...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm parting out a Studer D820MCH this week.  This is a 1/2&quot; DASH machine, quite obsolete in this day and age, but just in case anyone is looking for parts...<br />
<br />
If you have any interest in subassemblies, drop me a line at <a href="mailto:geoff@doane.ca">geoff@doane.ca</a><br />
<br />
I don't think there are too many common parts with the A820 and A827s, unfortunately.  Anything that nobody claims in a week or two, will go to e-waste.  I'm not looking to make any money on this, but would need to have any shipping covered.<br />
<br />
Any questions, ask here, and I'll try to respond so others get the answer too.  It'll be first come, first served.<br />
<br />
Geoff</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>cbc6403</dc:creator>
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			<title>1176 Rev A Clone...external power supply to lower noise?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839686-1176-rev-clone-external-power-supply-lower-noise.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 00:41:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, I've got a couple of Hairball 1176 Rev A clones. I understood when I bought the kits that they were a tad noisier than the Rev D and later, but I guess I just wanted to start at the source....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, I've got a couple of Hairball 1176 Rev A clones. I understood when I bought the kits that they were a tad noisier than the Rev D and later, but I guess I just wanted to start at the source. (Anyway, I've got them now.)<br />
<br />
I love the way these Rev A's sound but I wish they were quieter. It sounds like power supply noise to me (low hum). (I've taken precautions with AC power, racking position, transformer isolation throughout the audio chain, and so on. But, right now, they are the loudest thing in the signal chain.)<br />
<br />
I was considering replacing the power supply with a modern, rack-mounted, high quality +30VDC, -10VDC power supply that will handle the current requirements of a pair of 1176s with ease, and fitting the rears of the 1176 cases with locking Neutrik Powercon connectors.<br />
<br />
My hope is that the power circuitry is, indeed, the source of the noise -- and that this will solve the noise problem. But, I did not know if power supply sag, or some similar phenomenon, was considered a major part of the 1176 sound. Would an &quot;ideal&quot; DC power supply actually be detrimental from the perspective of preserving the special sound I love?<br />
<br />
Thanks for any thoughts, rs</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>ryansupak</dc:creator>
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			<title>FINAL UNI EXAM TOMORROW - CIRCUITS QUESTION... Please help!</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839664-final-uni-exam-tomorrow-circuits-question-please-help.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 22:20:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi guys, 
 
This Q is from a bunch of us. Sorry to annoy you but we are taking our final exam tomorrow and find that one of our questions in too vague!! 
 
 
'Justifying your answers, give...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi guys,<br />
<br />
This Q is from a bunch of us. Sorry to annoy you but we are taking our final exam tomorrow and find that one of our questions in too vague!!<br />
<br />
<br />
'Justifying your answers, give suggestions of the types of circuit that could be used for the:<br />
<br />
`Pre-Amp'<br />
<br />
'EQ'<br />
<br />
'Fader'<br />
<br />
'<br />
<br />
It then gives an examplefigure of a typical channel strip. But we dont have a clue what it refers to when it says 'type of circuit'<br />
<br />
Please help???<br />
<br />
Also we have much more but we are too scared to ask for loads of help!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Michael Lynch</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Does Anyone Here Build Websites?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839625-does-anyone-here-build-websites.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 19:31:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Wasn't quite sure where to post this, I hope I'm in the right spot.  
 
So I recently got a new job (yay!), and one of my first assignments is to redo the company's shop page. The files are .php...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Wasn't quite sure where to post this, I hope I'm in the right spot. <br />
<br />
So I recently got a new job (yay!), and one of my first assignments is to redo the company's shop page. The files are .php extensions and I'm trying to figure out the best way to make the revision. <br />
<br />
Should I download all files to my local disk and edit it that way, and then re-upload to FTP? I'm a little green with .php files but I'm quite used to working with HTML.<br />
<br />
All help is greatly appreciated!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>fastlanestoner</dc:creator>
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			<title>Roland MKS 10 input/chorus mod</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839459-roland-mks-10-input-chorus-mod.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 06:59:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey gents! 
 
So I recently got inspired by how absolutely beautiful the modulation sounds on my MKS-10 module.. And I decided to go ahead and gear up to modify the headphone-out jack to accept a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey gents!<br />
<br />
So I recently got inspired by how absolutely beautiful the modulation sounds on my MKS-10 module.. And I decided to go ahead and gear up to modify the headphone-out jack to accept a single, low impedance mono signal to input and bypass the synth circuit with every intention of running it through the effects section anytime I want to use an outboard chorus/flanger/or tremolo effect when mixing ~<br />
The idea has really got my 'gear juices' flowing! <br />
<br />
Right now my plan of attack just consists of reading through the schematic until I find a node where the synth input is injected into the effects/output pcb and basically running the jack wiring back there to tap into it. It seems simple enough! Although a friendly member that I recently met gave me a HUGE heads up by alerting me to the fact that apparently (as I currently understand it) the midi controls a &quot;gate&quot; of some sort that allows the synth to reach the output; and if you were to preform this mod it would therefore have to be activated, just as if you were sending midi out of your daw to play the unit , concurrently with the input being fed to allow the signal from the converted jack to reach the outputs. He addressed this issue in his own build by incorporating the use of an amtel chip of some sort.. But truthfully the idea of it doesn't really bother me. So Im just going to leave it be at this point! Besides.. I have ZERO knowledge of implementing and designing a fix like that on my own.. And I kind of view it as an extra layer of added control! So - <br />
<br />
Before I get started I just wanted to pick the forums brain and see if anyone else had potentially preformed this mod before/ Or if anyone had any tips, knowledge, ideas or comments they'd like to share!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>uncle muscles</dc:creator>
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			<title>Equidistant rack rail screw holes - four per rack space?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839447-equidistant-rack-rail-screw-holes-four-per-rack-space.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 04:52:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am constructing rack rail with equidistant screw holes, specifically four holes per rack space (allows 1/2 rack and 1/4 rack space spacers and vent strips).  Rounding up from standard 1U (44.45mm)...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am constructing rack rail with equidistant screw holes, specifically four holes per rack space (allows 1/2 rack and 1/4 rack space spacers and vent strips).  Rounding up from standard 1U (44.45mm) / 4 = 11.25mm between each hole.<br />
<br />
I am traveling without my rack gear, so I'm not able to measure the exact spacing to see if all of the gear will fit in all configurations.  Could I please get some of you to see if this would work for you?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>ds11</dc:creator>
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			<title>Advice needed on choosing my first budget oscilloscope for Synth repair/maintenance</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839420-advice-needed-choosing-my-first-budget-oscilloscope-synth-repair-maintenance.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 00:40:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi folks,  
 
First post on this forum but have been reading and enjoying it for a while now. Great stuff! 
 
Ok so here's my plea for help (though my title says it all...): 
 
I'm looking into...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi folks, <br />
<br />
First post on this forum but have been reading and enjoying it for a while now. Great stuff!<br />
<br />
Ok so here's my plea for help (though my title says it all...):<br />
<br />
I'm looking into buying a basic oscilloscope that will do the job without fancy gizmos and will be simple of operation.  I am a newbie at electronics and want to learn this summer.<br />
<br />
<u><b>Objective: </b></u>Repair/maintain/tune vintage synths (Korg PolySix, Poly-61, Matrix-1000, etc...).  Possibly for other small uncomplicated projects, like adding a MIDI retrofit to an old synth, etc.<br />
<br />
<b><u>Budget:</u></b> As less as possible!  :lol:  But I'd like it if I could find a used one under $100.  I imagine at that price, it's either gonna be old, very basic and limited or a really good deal!<br />
<br />
But in reality, it just needs to do the basic essential functions in order to do what I want to do (which... I don't 100% know what it is yet, but will find out in the coming weeks I guess...)  Reading voltages, waveshapes? frequencies?  Cook hot-dogs (if it tends to overheat like an old CS-80...) lol<br />
<br />
If I ever find out I really love doing this and need something more advanced, then I'll just change it or buy a better one later.<br />
<br />
<br />
So... <br />
1) What specs/options should I look for ?<br />
2) Are there reference models you could throw at me to help in my research?<br />
3) Is under $100 a reasonable budget?<br />
<br />
One last thing :<br />
A guy near where I live has 2 up for sale for <b>$45</b> each or $80 for both.<br />
He says they seem to work well (he's not a tech, he got them in a lot with other things and has no interest in them) and and come with probe and book.<br />
<blockquote><font color="Blue"><b>-Heathkit Model 10-18<br />
-Eico Model 460</b></font></blockquote>Would these do the job?<br />
Are they the same or complementary?<br />
(I could buy both, at that price, and test them, keep the best and sell the other, or keep them both if they are complementary)<br />
Is the price fair (from what I can judge, after a quick look on eBay, yes!)<br />
But will they do the job or should I invest in something else? (why?)<br />
<br />
That's it.<br />
I know that's a lot of questions...  Sorry.<br />
I appreciate any comment!<br />
<br />
PS: Hope this was posted in the right section.  Looked carefully and that seemed the best place.  Sorry if not.  Mods can move it if it ain't.<br />
<br />
-SOS</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Synthosphere</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839420-advice-needed-choosing-my-first-budget-oscilloscope-synth-repair-maintenance.html</guid>
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			<title>Strange EQ plot PULTEC build... Help!</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839416-strange-eq-plot-pultec-build-help.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 00:30:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I just finished a Drip Pultec V2.  Checking the EQ curves in spectrafoo I noticed an anomaly. 
 
The 20, 60 and 100hz curves appear as expected but the 30 hz curve is almost exactly the same as the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just finished a Drip Pultec V2.  Checking the EQ curves in spectrafoo I noticed an anomaly.<br />
<br />
The 20, 60 and 100hz curves appear as expected but the 30 hz curve is almost exactly the same as the 100hz curve (differs above about 1.5k).<br />
<br />
Could this be a bad capacitor or a short at the low frequency selector switch ?<br />
<br />
with thanks<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.themightyroars.com/ebay/pultec_low.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>pacealmondo</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839416-strange-eq-plot-pultec-build-help.html</guid>
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			<title>Korg Stage Echo 500</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839390-korg-stage-echo-500-a.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 22:52:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi everyone, 
I have a KORG SE500 on my work bench. 
I found a schematic but can't get a proper service manual. All the connectors have been unplugged, none of the boards are printed... i'd need an...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi everyone,<br />
I have a KORG SE500 on my work bench.<br />
I found a schematic but can't get a proper service manual. All the connectors have been unplugged, none of the boards are printed... i'd need an implementation diagram.<br />
Korg is not responding, i'm not sure such a document exists.<br />
<br />
So... if somebody has one and time to waste, I'd be gratufull for pictures with directions of the inside of theirs!<br />
<br />
THANK YOU!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>die monster die</dc:creator>
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			<title>wood preamp case</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839328-wood-preamp-case.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 18:55:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Okay, so I recently built two bare-bones, ic based preamps to go with a  couple of ribbon mics I also built. (these were my first builds so suffice it to say, I am an uber noob.) The preamps came...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Okay, so I recently built two bare-bones, ic based preamps to go with a  couple of ribbon mics I also built. (these were my first builds so suffice it to say, I am an uber noob.) The preamps came with tiny aluminum cases to house them and when the pcb is outside of the case, there is an incredible amount of noise. When placed inside, the noise is gone. My question is if I built larger wooden housings for these preamps would they provide the same level of noise shielding as the aluminum ones? I feel like this is a pretty stupid question, so if it is please be kind. :amaze:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>essessbe</dc:creator>
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			<title>Problems with my KRK ROKIT 5S</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839294-problems-my-krk-rokit-5s.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 16:23:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[It seems that all I am getting is high frequency at the quietest of quiet volumes. I don't know much about any hardware at all but I cant find this issue anywhere on the internet. The speaker is much...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>It seems that all I am getting is high frequency at the quietest of quiet volumes. I don't know much about any hardware at all but I cant find this issue anywhere on the internet. The speaker is much quieter than the other one even with all the levels turned down. Ive tried using different cables different power chords and different ACs. I havent opened it up. It really has me baffled. I moved and when I got into the new house it didnt work at all. Im getting power and there was no bangs no crazy temperature changes or anything. Id say all my music equipment was priority number one in the move. If anybody has any idea or needs any further information or is having a similar problem and could possibly explain it better please post! thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>bunkydingding</dc:creator>
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			<title>Tascam M3500</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839248-tascam-m3500.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 12:02:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all. I have a tascam M3500, well my friend has it.  His cousin gave him the board and a tascam 85-16B with some outboard gear.  So I have been trying to help him get it all up and running. 
 
The...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all. I have a tascam M3500, well my friend has it.  His cousin gave him the board and a tascam 85-16B with some outboard gear.  So I have been trying to help him get it all up and running.<br />
<br />
The M3500 right stereo out is dead.  This also causes CR out to be dead on the right side.  I do have the manual and have been trying to trace the schems to see what the issue might be.  <br />
<br />
So far I have tracked it back to master PCB C, and U551 and U552.  These are 2 op amps on the board.  <br />
<br />
I was hoping if anyone else here has any experience with these might be able to shed a little light on this or tell me if I am way off.  Or even what a suitable replacement might be for these opamps.  <br />
<br />
Aside from that issue everything else on the board seems fine and is working well.  I have lots of soldering experience but never worked on a board like this before.  <br />
<br />
Anyways, thanks in advance for (any|every)thing.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>sleigher</dc:creator>
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			<title>Simple, transformerless, double balanced mic preamp schematic?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839224-simple-transformerless-double-balanced-mic-preamp-schematic.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 09:08:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm a fan of, and have built, INA217 type mic pre amps and wondered if there was something as simple to build that didn't "unbalance" the output. 
 
Would a similar topology to an instrumentation amp...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm a fan of, and have built, INA217 type mic pre amps and wondered if there was something as simple to build that didn't &quot;unbalance&quot; the output.<br />
<br />
Would a similar topology to an instrumentation amp work, but instead of the final diff amp, you just had a pair of buffers? I'm thinking the CMRR of the output might suffer from the two sides being independent, but it will still be better than unbalanced, and as we're now at line level...</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Kesh</dc:creator>
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			<title>TL084/OP176 replacement op-amp for Xpander synthesizer?</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839093-tl084-op176-replacement-op-amp-xpander-synthesizer.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 20:52:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all, 
 
I know virtually nothing about op-amps, so hopefully you might have some suggestions here. 
 
I am upgrading the TL081 op-amps on my Oberheim Xpander, I was planning to use AD OP176 (as...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all,<br />
<br />
I know virtually nothing about op-amps, so hopefully you might have some suggestions here.<br />
<br />
I am upgrading the TL081 op-amps on my Oberheim Xpander, I was planning to use AD OP176 (as per someone else who used this successfully), but this is obsolete and impossible to find. <br />
<br />
Is there any equivalent op-amp from AD, Burr-Brown or similar? AD suggests that OP184 is their replacement part, but (to me) the specs looks pretty different... the slew rate in particular, which seems to be the key for what I'm trying to achieve (lowering the distortion and grunge inherent to the xpander/matrix-12).<br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/">Geekslutz forum</category>
			<dc:creator>Sir Ruff</dc:creator>
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			<title>Soundcraft Spirit E12 mixer, diagram wanted</title>
			<link>http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/839085-soundcraft-spirit-e12-mixer-diagram-wanted.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 20:09:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Gentlemen, 
 
somebody has a schematic for this Soundcraft Spirit E12 mixer? 
Can’t find it anywhere - urgent need for repair. Thanks for help. 
 
The diagrams of other items in this production...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Gentlemen,<br />
<br />
somebody has a schematic for this Soundcraft Spirit E12 mixer?<br />
Can’t find it anywhere - urgent need for repair. Thanks for help.<br />
<br />
The diagrams of other items in this production series may also help.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
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			<dc:creator>dcvx</dc:creator>
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