Gearslutz.com - Studio building / acoustics

How to reduce noise from the garage

seiyafan — Fri, 24 May 2013 00:03:47 GMT

All three bedrooms are located directly above the garage, noise from the garage such as starting cars and opening/closing garage door can be heard from the bedrooms, how should I go about reducing this noise to a minimum? I am thinking about blowing cellulose into the floor between the two levels because the floor is not well insulated (too cold in the winter), as a welcoming side effect this can cut down air born noise. But what about noise created by opening/closing garage doors? (by the way, the doors are manually opened/closed, 3 years old)

Why are so many studios visually sterile?

bigsbyman — Thu, 23 May 2013 21:17:35 GMT

I'm building a new studio, starting to think about aesthetics. Why are so many recording studios so visually sterile and clinical in appearance?

What's the downside of making a studio that looks artistic?

Sheetrock Ultralight?

John N — Thu, 23 May 2013 20:42:56 GMT

Anyone know if the Ultralight sheets of sheetrock are as good or better than regular sheetrock for sound isolation?

thanks
jn

Non symmetrical room acoustic fix

NizamAziz — Thu, 23 May 2013 19:07:18 GMT

Ive been searching d web about non symmetrical room issues and fix but cant seem to find any. Few years back ive took over a project studio from a friend. Have done quite a lot of projects in that studio but it has always been a struggle when mixing. I end up mixing on d ns10s and headphones back and forth and its taking me a looooong time to finish a mix. i do believe it has got to do with d acoustics of d room. Its gonna cost me quite a bomb to re partition d walls so i was thinking of any other ways to work around d current setup. My current mix area is near wall "A"

Is moving d mix area to wall "B" a better option?
Any other ideas?

Here is d current setup. Not drawn to scale heh

Purchasing an Apollo 16 in conjunction with saffire 56

wootinabox — Thu, 23 May 2013 18:05:32 GMT

Hey all. Had a question that may prove to be worthless but it's worth a shot.

I have a Liquid saffire 56 and i'm looking to get some big boy toys. In the following month i will be purchasing either pro tools hdx or the apollo 16

Before you start making this thread about which interface is better :facepalm:
Please do so after answering my question haha

I dont want to throw away my Saffire 56 because i have grown oddly attached to this piece of hardware. So I am wondering if I can use ONLY the mic pres that are inside the Liquid Saffire 56 through the apollo 16 line inputs. I want my apollo 16 to be doing the conversion not my saffire 56!

Thank you in advance!

speakon to 1/4 ok between head/cab?

bleeding ears — Thu, 23 May 2013 16:21:04 GMT

So when installing my wall box, I neglected to consider the classic 'head in the control room, cab in the live room' scenario.

I'm looking to run a cable thru the walls to allow me to do this. I was looking at just normal speaker cable, but wondered if a long (10m) speakon cable would do the job?

Obviously, some amp heads have speakon outs, but most have 1/4 jacks. If I make up a couple of jack to speakon cables for each end, will this work? Will this be of sufficient quality?

I imagine its +1 to T and -1 to S for the wiring?

New Small Space

mistaD — Thu, 23 May 2013 15:38:50 GMT

Hey guys, I just bought a house and there's a room in the basement that I would like to convert into a studio. It's 11'.42" x 12'.33" x 6'.10" H. Its a pretty low ceiling and isn't it almost a square which isn't good either? I know I should position my desk aiming to the long wall but where would be ideal placement for the traps I have. I have 8 bass traps and 7 other traps. The room will be used for recording vocals, acoustic guitar and mixing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Any New Zealand members out there? / Sourcing Cable

Craig32768 — Thu, 23 May 2013 09:38:53 GMT

Hi All,

Any folks from NZ out there. Looking for a supplier of good quality microphone cable around Auckland. Any suggestions?

At first glance there doesn't seem to be much available along the lines of something like Gotham GAC-3

Cheers
Craig

ringing room

ohadnissim — Thu, 23 May 2013 09:12:20 GMT

hello
just moved to a new place, and designing my new home studio.
this is what ive done so far:

the room/mix position sounds really good.. my only problem is, there is still ringing when i lets say, clap my hand.. it's not super harsh, but it is annoying.
im guessing it might be because of the high ceiling.
my room is:
width - 200cm
length - 420cm
height - 300cm

any one have an idea how to solve it...?
thanks

Garden shed as studio?

djanogil — Thu, 23 May 2013 08:07:44 GMT

I'm planning to build a small project studio in my garden.
I'm going for the garden shed pre built option.
My question is will I be able to get proper soundproofing using wood construction?
The idea is to use the shed structure for the main construction, and to do the room in a room inside of it. Any opinions?

The shed walls will be 10cm thick.

A Bit Of Help For a New User ?

RayBanRex — Thu, 23 May 2013 04:54:19 GMT

Firstly I would like to say thank you to the people who post daily issues and solutions here as I am a new Member , but a pastime reader of the Site's Forums and have worked many issues out with your assistance. Kudos

Now onto the Issue at Hand ... I'm trying to turn my 5FT BY 6FT ( 9 Ft Height ) closet into a Vocal Booth ( Strictly used for Vocals ) and while this may be a heavily attempted Idea with horribly tarnished results I have recorded in a DIY vocal booth with Walmart Bed Topping Material plastered everywhere substituted for Acoustic Foam with Much Greater Than expected results. Close enough to some Studio's I've recorded in that cost near some Ten's of Thousands to Build.

Now My First instinct was to Upgrade to Acoustic Foam being that I could afford it now which in my mind would bare a greater Sound than the Bed Topping , But after reading that Even the Acoustic Foam is Second to Acoustic Panels I've grown Confused ...

My Goal is to Get The Noise out of My Recordings , Hiss , The Air Conditioner , Reverberations ... I want crystal Clear Vocals.

Would a Bunch Of Acoustic Panels be more effective than A Room full of Foam at keeping annoying noises out of my Recordings

or Is the Acoustic Paneling more for Big Instruments being recorded at Disney ?

Studio Builders / Acousticians in Netherlands

UnderTow — Wed, 22 May 2013 16:45:47 GMT

Hi there,

Does anyone have any recommendation for studio builders / acousticians in the Netherlands?

Thanks!

Alistair

HELP! Treatment and place of equipment in this room?

Jradyo — Wed, 22 May 2013 07:53:50 GMT

Hello im looking to treat this room which is 3x3m there is a 2m cupboard and a window that is small and rectangular on the right hand side and a door in the back right hand corner ive attached a shitty drawing ive done with a rough lay out of the room, i am just wondering where i should place my computer desk, my set up is just 2 hs80ms and a desktop, cheers for your help.

Attached Thumbnails

Help me improve an acoustical nightmare

JohnB. — Tue, 21 May 2013 21:38:24 GMT

I recently moved into a new apartment. Its in a great location at a good price, but its perhaps the worst listening environment I have ever been in! I know that there are plenty of threads on all of the topics that I am about to bring up, but it would really help if I could get some direct answers to my specific situation. I will try to keep it concise.

The Specs:
- Wall dimensions are 9 by 11 feet. Hardwood Floors, plastered walls and plastered ceiling.
- My desk is centered along the short wall. I use Mackie MK2's, which are rear ported. The speakers sit on my desk and are aprox 6'' from the wall.

The Problems:
- Massive bass buildup behind the speakers and the corners of the front wall.
- Terrible flutter echo through out the room. (Though, I have purchased acoustic foam to fix this)
- Serious concern about leakage. I haven't had any noise complaints yet, but the isolation in the building almost non existent. I can sometimes make out conversations from the people who live above me. Which leads me to believe that they can surly hear my monitors even at a respectable level.

My questions:
-How can I minimize sound bleed to neighboring apartments?
-Will placing a Bass trap behind my speakers help the bass buildup and also help with sound bleed? I am thinking of putting an Owens Coning 703 fiberglass panel directly behind the speakers. I realize that my rear ported speakers being so close to the wall are greatly contributing to my acoustic problems, but they are about as far away from the wall as they can get. I also can not afford new front ported speakers any time soon. I tried stuffing the ports but found that it greatly compromised the audio quality.

Any insight or advice to improve my situation will be greatly appreciated.

stC rating for wood lath and plaster sought for soundproofing

Haliflats — Tue, 21 May 2013 20:40:50 GMT

Looking to soundproof a wall to achieve a rating of STC 50. Wall is currently plaster on wood laths on both sides of a 2 by 4 wall. Want to take down one side of the wall and leave one side lath and plaster.

I have found a modern assembly refeence to show that the following: (one layer 5/8 drywall one side, with 3 1/2" fiberglass, resilient channel and 5/8 drywall on other side) equals STC 50.

I am looking to prove that leaving the lath and plaster instead of using the 5/8 drywall would also end up with an STC 50.

Anyone know a reference for the STC of wood lath and plaster?

thanks

Placing a Diffuser

opacheco — Tue, 21 May 2013 15:27:00 GMT

Hi all!

I am searching a good lecture (technical and Scientific methods if this exits!!) about the where to place the diffusers in a hall or room??...this can not be done randomly, I am sure of that!, someone must have a scientific method for it.

I will appreciate any comment
Opacheco.

REW: I can't get REW to recognize my microphone input

korejekt — Tue, 21 May 2013 10:16:37 GMT

i hope i don't violate any rules, but i figured that I'd ask the studio building/acoustics/REW professionals as well.

i posted under the subforum "music computers" the following post, and i hope some of you REW users can help me out. i can't get REW to "hear" my microphone.

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/music...r-rew-daw.html

any help is greatly appreciated. thank you.

New Studio Build - Cheshire

3girls1geek — Tue, 21 May 2013 09:09:22 GMT

Hi

I am building a new recording studio in a 19th century coach house within the grounds of my home in Childer Thornton in Cheshire.

End use will be professional recording studio with self contained accomodation, close to motorway network and rail network but removed enough to provide a peaceful and relaxing place to write and record. Details on gear to follow but will be built around a Neve 5116 and pro tools HD.

I have built a blog detailing the construction of the studio from demolition to present day. Construction should be complete early August 2013.

Skyhammer Studio

Avatar/Power Station Studio

NoizyNinja — Tue, 21 May 2013 08:19:50 GMT

Does anyone have any history involving the construction of the big room at Avatar/Power Station? Behind the slats of wood was there fiberglass or rockwool or just fabric on wood/drywall?

Cable option use to conceal inside the wall.

shengzzz — Tue, 21 May 2013 04:29:48 GMT

Hi, please suggest me the cable which use to permanent conceal inside the wall in my studio.
Do i need some high end cable such as Mogami w2534 or w2549 for this? Or is it some decent cable will more than enough?

Btw, for a small recording studio (the recording room is around 20 feet x 20 feet), i need quad star cable or normal balanced cable is good for all?

Thank you.

Bass treatment and VPR advice

Channel time — Tue, 21 May 2013 01:27:15 GMT

Moved thread to bass traps / acoustic panels sub forum.
Sorry - this one wont delete...?

My project thus far.

meneedit — Mon, 20 May 2013 18:45:11 GMT

Hi guys!

Quite a while ago I posted a thread seeking info about setting up a vocal recording area in a fairly narrow rectangular room.

I've spent the last few weeks setting it up and it is almost done but I need to take more steps to soak up some more of the acoustics.

Glenn from GIK recommended that I treat the room as well as the recording area so that is what I am currently working on. For the vocal area I have attempted to create replicas of the GIK free-standing panels. They are quite rough but they should do the trick providing I can take care of the rest of the room.

Here are some photos:

THE PANELS
--------------

As you can see I am one panel short, hence the big gap but eventually I will have a panel wide enough to enclose the whole area.

The panels are empty wooden frames with mineral wool inside and they are wrapped in calico which is quite breathable. The panels do not have any gaps at the bottom except for the door panel which has wheels at the bottom. Should I fill in the gap at the bottom of the door panel?

Here is all the necessary info on the mineral wool (soundscreen R2.0):

http://www.insulationindustries.com...._Datasheet.pdf

I have used 1x thickness in each panel (one and a half batts standing on top of each other but wedged in quite firmly with no gaps between the wool and the wood.

Unfortunately, hanging small panels on the walls won't be an option because the room is already cramped and there isn't much space between the wall and the office chair.

.....However, I could place something on top of the desk in the corner (near the muse poster). There WAS actually a DIY bass trap in that corner but it is now in one of the corners of the vocal area.

THE BASS TRAPS
--------------------

The bass traps could be ineffective due to the design but i'm really not sure. To make the traps I cut some batts down the middle and made a triangular shape out of three halves and stuffed a few odds and ends of wool in the middle.

There is no wood inside the traps, they are also wrapped in calico and I tied string around them in a few places to hold the calico on.

The most important question I have about bass traps is, if designed correctly, can they be used in upright placement in wall corners as opposed to being on roof corners?

THE ROOF
------------

Similar to the bass traps, there was no wood involved in the roof. Just a layer of the wool lying flat with calico wrapped around it. I'm guessing that this could be the most ineffective part of the foundation but I hope it is ok.

THE TABLES
--------------

Both tables in the room have thick blankets on them but this is not an attempt to treat the room, they are just there because I like them. These blankets drape down the front and back of the tables.

Regarding the table that meets up with the recording area, I will be placing an extra thick block of materal underneath at the end, as I imagine that the acoustics would currently be travelling freely in and out of the vocal area.

WINDOWS
-------------

Unfortunately there are 3 of them ....and one of them just happens to be smack in the middle of the far wall, behind the panels. I remember Glenn telling me that windows can cause a 'combing' effect.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Well, that covers as much as I can think of for now.

I realise that I have most likely made quite a few no-no's in this endeavour, so any help would be greatly appreciated :)

Will fiberglass be harmful for my health?

Kruxify — Mon, 20 May 2013 16:40:10 GMT

I'm building my acoustic panel for the first time using these (QuietZone) http://insulation.owenscorning.ca/ecotouch/ and I was wondering, will it be okay if I cover them with linen cloth? Would it be at all any harmful for my health having it outside of the walls? I'm going to make frames and hang them up. Also they smell pretty bad. Any solutions for that? Thanks.

“Best” Monitor-Stand. Decoupling Dynaudio-BM-15a. Vibrations and Resonance.

bluevoice — Mon, 20 May 2013 14:37:50 GMT

Hi there

One week ago I bought a couple of active powered Dynaudio BM-15 Monitors. I need them for Recording/Monitoring and as a hifi speaker. And I’d like to put my monitors not to much far from the floor/ground with the possibility to adjust the angle.

Now I try to find a way to as much as possible decouple and reduce that strong room acoustic effect of the lower frequencies that monitor often uses to cause (especially in acoustically difficult and small rooms like mine). It means to reduce vibrations / resonance and maybe even to increase the definition, fresh- and crispyness of the bass.

I decided to try everything else first before I buy other additional equipment such as EQs, Room-Correctors etc.

So the first thing I will do is putting a descent monitor stand together.

Idea (from the bottin to the top)
- An iron stand or rack, about 10 to 15 inches high, on this
- A concrete slab, three to four inches thick, on this
- A Stand which adjustable angle where the monitor finally is placed on

The third part, the stand holding the monitor, is my biggest concern. I found three possible models so far:

- Iso Acoustic L8R200 and
- Ultimate MS80 (actually a desktop stand)

Do one of them does it’s job better than the other? And:
Of course it would be nice if the angle could be changed without being taken from the stand.
I couldn’t find out, whether this is possible with the Iso Acoustic.
The Ultimate has a screw at it’s front to adjust the angle but I wonder whether this mechanism is strong enough to lift a monitor that weighs 18 kg without taking it from the stand. I’m a bit skeptical whether the Ultimate is generally big, solid and stable enough for the MB-15.

And finally the third model which claims to be a top end product, the Elevation Pro EVP-M1:
Ardan Audio

But with its 500€ or some 600$ it is extremely expensive.

So here my gathered concrete questions:
- What do you think about my plan for the stand-construction?
- What do you think/know about the three stands I mentioned?
- Is the Elevation pro actually so good or that better than the other stands with adjustable ankle that a difference is hearable?
- When I have a good stand: How much must the minimum of the distance from the floor/ground to the bottom of the Monitor be? Is 10 or 15 inches a to small distance?

Thank you and regards

urs bluevoice

Ergonomics/ Cable Storage

citternman — Mon, 20 May 2013 13:57:05 GMT

I am trying to gather some ideas for how folks are storing their mic cables with a couple things in mind: I am a weekend/evenings level of time commitment guy working in a single basement room... and I have some organization problems. I am looking for a good, preferably cheap solution for storing cables in a way that is compact and ins't bad for the shielding.

Drawers? Pegs on the wall? - What kind of diameter? In a pile in a box?

It seems the sort of thing that gets passed over when folks are planning. Not sure if this is the right sub-forum. I know I'm probably over-thinking this.
Thanks.
-T

Turn tiny closet into vocal booth? good idea?

Waterfan — Mon, 20 May 2013 11:07:07 GMT

Hey guys,

I have a tiny closet that I was thinking of turning into a vocal booth. My studio is a tiny bedroom and untreated so any improvement is good.

The size of closet is
Length 90cm
Depth 57cm
Height 180cm
with a sliding door

I'm short enough to fit inside it so size isnt a major issue, my friend gave me some regular egg shaped foam that I could use for the walls and the floor already has carpet.

I'm looking to track vocals and maybe some guitar amps, miked up.
So a few questions.
Is the closet too small?
Will the foam help? Or should I go out and buy some thick blankets?

Thanks for your help,
any tips would be useful, I dont really know what I'm doing, I know nothing. haha.

Soundproofing with limited choice of materials

Gelgamek — Mon, 20 May 2013 07:46:46 GMT

I'm living in Cambodia at the moment, and soundproofing materials are hard to come by over here. A friend of mine is looking to convert the top floor of a bar he owns into a space suitable for band practice sessions and to run as a tiny night club - as such we need to minimise bass leakage.

Three walls are concrete, so they aren't much of an issue, but the front wall and (low) ceiling are almost paper thin and are basically acting like a drum skin. Front wall is effectively a wooden panel, the ceiling is an inch or so thick layer of weird, cheap, light plastic stuff they use for building here, coated with polystyrene tiles.

There is one supplier of Owens Corning stuff in country, but they only seem to stock duct wrap and nothing else. I'll be making inquiries to see if they can get in 703 or 705 for us, but even if they can I reckon the price will be gougingly high.

The only easily acquired alternative will be Roxul rockwool - you can see the available options here. No specifications are given on the website but I'm pretty sure it'll just be their standard, cheapest grade stuff. Highest density available is 60Kg/m3. I'd like to know whether this will actually do anything at all (we have the space to leave a 10 or 20cm air gap), or if it'd just be throwing money down the drain.

Any suggestions of any kind would be greatly appreciated.

Discussion of Common DIY Rockwool Framing Methods

jameson — Mon, 20 May 2013 07:39:34 GMT

Hi all,

I have gone out and purchased some various materials (discussed below), with the goal of building some DIY sound absorption panels, 2' by 4'. At this point, I am stuck on a plan for Framing.

Option 1 (and 1b):

Most of the tutorials and images I have seen suggest a frame like this -- most commonly, without any wood backing, just a fabric back:

My concern is that the rockwool will sag over time -- particularly if the panel is ceiling mounted, in a cloud.

A plywood backing could help with that -- however, the acoustic implications of adding a plywood backing are unclear to me. I would hope to use these panels with an air gap, and not against a rigid backing.

Another popular method is:

In the above, fabric is pulled tightly around bear rockwool, against the wooden backing. There is no side support for the rockwool.

Intuitively, I feel this may have less sagging, due to the friction from the wrapping fabric -- however, it may not look as good, or be as durable (particularly if used as a gobo.)

Another framing method I have seen, that looks very Robust, is shown in this Gearslutz post from zzzxtreme:

I like the look of this construction, and intuitively it seems durable -- however, it involves quite a bit more assembly per panel. I wonder if that level of craftsmanship is necessary to create a lasting panel.

Other notes:

My current goal is to build:

(8) 3 inch 2'x4' Panels
(4) 6 inch 2'x4' Panels

Some will be ceiling mounted, some in the corner, and some as (hinged) gobos.

Here is a cross section of each 3" (or 6") panel's absorption and covering:

I hope to apply them in this room (as discussed on this thread):

Here are the materials I have to date (still haven't bought stuff for frames):

My room treatment plan...Good or Bad idea?

Exis — Mon, 20 May 2013 06:51:44 GMT

Hi All,

I've considered giving my room some treatment for a while now and would like some opinion from you guys here. I've done a fair bit of reading on room treatment and the solution I came up with seems to be most optimal for a room like mine. My budget isn't very high (I don't want to go crazy), my goal is just pretty much to treat the listening position while producing. The only thing I would add is double-glazing the window for a slight improve on sound isolation.

My speakers are JBL LSR2328P

I've attached the images below:

Room Treatment Plan - Bedroom
This is my current room setup. As you can see, it is square, it's not very symmetrical and I can't just put absorbers and traps on the left side because there are doors and wardrobes in the way. Putting the comp+speakers in a different place would still seem to be problematic because of the horrible placement of the door, wardrobe and window.

Room Treatment Plan - Partition Screens
http://www.budgetpartitioning.com.au...g%20screen.pdf

I thought of this idea of using partition screens to divide my room. The partitions will give my space more of a rectangular shape and act as 'new walls' on my left-side. The problem I can see is that these partitions won't be as high as the roof, thus having that bit of gap near the top. I'm wondering how this will affect sound around the room. Essentially, I'm using the partitions to make my producing space symmetrical and make it easier for me to install treatment.

Room Treatment Plan - Room Treatment
With the partitions in place, I can now easily place absorbers and traps around me without having to worry about doors, wardrobes, etc. The other thing I would do is double-glaze the window so the backwall is now more of a wall rather than a window with a ledge.

So my concerns are:
- Is this plan good or bad? Am I wasting my cash?
- Are the partitions going to be useless? (Especially since they're not going to be as high as the roof and only 7.5cm thick)
- Since the partitions are a different material to the other three walls (plaster), is this going to affect the treatment?
- Any other problems you can think of.

I have to make do with this room. Every other room in the house is of similar design so if anyone can give ideas and/or improvements, that would be awesomely great. Thanks and have a great day! :)

Attached Thumbnails

Acoustic Treatment for...Acoustic Guitar?

Simultaneity — Mon, 20 May 2013 05:14:01 GMT

Hey guys,

I've been toying with the idea of new preamps/converters/a new interface/ new mics ETC and I've really come down to the fact that I'll probably get better results with some acoustic treatment than any new gear. This may not be the case, however. I was really close to pulling the trigger on a new LDC for omni & figure 8 stuff but that brought my attention to room sound.....

I've read through all the information on the stickies and taken some time to digest it. However, I record acoustic guitar 95% of the time and the other 5% is spent doing vocals and acoustic. Reading through the forums it appears that most people recommend bass traps first...but my guitar barely does anything below 100Hz. I mean, obviously there's information there...but I don't really feel like it needs to be tamed. I do get some pretty serious room reflections in the midrange however.... I thought about picking up some of the auralex foam mid range absorbers and using them to tame the mid/high mid frequencies...

Can someone with a better understanding of treatment help me out here?

Tl;dr I don't feel as if I need bass traps because I only record acoustic guitar. The biggest problem I notice in my room is mid range early reflections. Would auralex mid range absorbers be a good piece of equipment for me?

Interpretation help

Yora — Mon, 20 May 2013 02:51:08 GMT

Hi all, id really some help interpreting the results of my room test at my new place. I kinda new to room testing, but if im not wrong then these are absolutely terrible right? :facepalm: The room is large (6.5m x 7.3m x 2.8m) and brick.

Anywho, i definitely plan to do some serious trapping but just wanted to check what are the most troublesome areas first.
Thanks !!

***EDIT***
adjust some of the images after finding the sticky

Attached Thumbnails

dont hate me.. monitor positioning question

KEVA — Mon, 20 May 2013 00:39:23 GMT

hello my beautiful gearslutz.. i got some new monitors recently. im pretty new to owning a real professional grade of monitors. so i dont quite know the basics. i took the following photo of the new speakers and im not sure if i should have them faced straight forward or towards me slightly. Also - Im moving out in a month so my situation will be different soon but i want to know how i should position them in my new place.. with that being said, is it bad that they are both next to walls? i assume this is a pretty big issue but I dont know enough.. im still going nuts because everything sounds so amazing and different with these bad boys. hopefully all my mixes / productions will improve immensely. thanks for the help and i apologize in advance if this question is redundant.

KEVA

Attached Thumbnails

Green Glue / MLV - multiple layers of material - best plan?

666666 — Sun, 19 May 2013 22:25:15 GMT

A floor I will be beefing up will have a total of three layers of 3/4" plywood (or I might use MDF for the middle layer instead). Trying to block as much low frequency transmission as possible from the basement to the first floor. Trying to block sound from the first floor to the basement as well.

Should I put Green Glue between EACH layer? Or is adding Green Glue between just one of the layers enough? (I know this has been discussed before, I searched but could not find the answer.) Green Glue isn't cheap, so I'd rather not treat both layers if there is not much performance to be gained by doing so. BUT, if there IS a reasonable gain to be had, I'll gladly spend the extra $.

Also... I have free access to mass loaded vinyl, as much as I need. Another idea.... add Green Glue between one layer and MLV between the other layer...? How might this compare to adding two layers of Green Glue?

Regardless, I may also add a layer of MLV on top of the floor when done, before the carpeting goes down. Or, would this be a waste of time considering that I'll already have three layers of 3/4" ply with GG etc? Perhaps a layer of MLV on top will not add any real measurable gain in attenuation considering...? While I have free access to MLV, I'd still rather not waste time installing it and adding extra weight if it's pretty much not going to help.

Thanks!

Best way to "deal with" standing waves without treatment?

catawbawine — Sun, 19 May 2013 17:55:23 GMT

So, right now my mixing/tracking room is a VERY basic setup, with very little treatment (that was amateurishly done by your's truly). The room is a strange one -- it's essentially rectangular, but with a "nook" at one end. The room is basically an "L" shape. I've covered the two windows with old comforters, and I've put up some absorption panels on the walls, placed where I believe the reflections are occurring (like I said, amateurish). My mixing desk is in the end of the long portion of the L.

Anyway, I've obviously got some bad problems going on in my room, especially with standing waves. But, being an acoustics noob (I slept through physics in high school, and slept through acoustics in recording school shiee ) I had some questions.

There is this AWFUL resonance (I believe it's a standing wave but I could be wrong) right around 175hz -- it's clear as day, and very boomy. But here's the strange part -- it only occurs when I'm mixing my own music. Very rarely does it occur noticeably when listening to professional releases. At first I thought it was because the songs had been recorded in this room, but I get the resonance even with DI'd instruments. It isn't the recording itself -- the problem is non-existent in headphones, and doesn't happen in the car or in the living room.

My questions is, why does it only occur with my music? Is this a frequency I should be cutting in my songs? The reason I ask is because, as I said, professional releases DON'T have this issue. What could it be? Is it even a standing wave? It's RIGHT at 175hz, and there don't seem to be any other noticeable frequencies that resonant so obnoxiously. Why do professionally mixed/mastered songs not have this same problem frequency when played back through my setup?

I plan on getting proper treatment soon and actually getting my room evaluated; I'll be selling my car and I have a beater car I'll be switching to, so I'll have a modest budget of about 2 grand for room treatment. But in the mean time, is there anything I should be doing? Should I just mix with headphones? I hate mixing with headphones!

Anyways, I apologize for the lengthy post, but any advice/answers would be greatly appreciated!

Room Treatment: are Super Chunks Nessiary

JPRich — Sun, 19 May 2013 17:47:35 GMT

I've been building up my studio, my buddy is the money bags, but only likes to spend it on sexy things like his hand wired ac30, etc. I'm trying to make the best of my room. In order to cut costs i think i'm going to stick to Rolux Safe n Safe. My primary question is if i really need super chucks? I'm not really sure how much treatment do i REALLY need? what would be the minimum treatment? I've attached a plan of the room, as well as some pictures. Any and all help/insight would be extreamly helpful. \

Yamaha hs80 How to connect them to a pc?

validcode — Sun, 19 May 2013 16:51:31 GMT

I'm about to purchase Yamaha Hs80. But i have no idea how to connect them to my computer, I'll be glad if you could help me.

Flat studio desk rack furniture pieces?

applecore3401 — Sun, 19 May 2013 16:42:18 GMT

I am trying to find where I can find the desk additions in this studio desk pic. The wood rack pieces that the reference monitors are sitting on. I have a flat desk and want to add these wood pieces to my desk. Check the picture.

Anybody have any idea????

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How to treat my studio? help please

gila — Sun, 19 May 2013 13:03:03 GMT

Could you please help me guys? I have bought some foam panels, I would like to fix them to the ceiling and I have got this bundle

The wall is drywall and the other side is isolated with fiberglass. The floor is concrete with OSB desks. I put a carpet on it

What would you do? Thank you very much

gila

need help with where/how to bass trap/treat these corners by my console...

RandallRecords — Sun, 19 May 2013 09:17:43 GMT

in my space, the way the contractors were able to best build out the rooms in my space....i don't have quite enough space to do traditional superchunk bass traps in the two front corners by the console. other options that any of you guys might have in mind/tricks?? still 45 degree angles, but on one side is a window that starts about 8-10" in so not enough to just trap the corner as i would normally....love to hear from some of you guys that have a bit more knowledge. thanks!!

need studio built on big island! (hawaii)

BattleCatRoots — Sat, 18 May 2013 22:52:47 GMT

i just moved to a rural area of the big island and want to build a project studio in my backyard from the ground up. there r many things to consider of course but the most important thing for me is that it is built in a way which does not allow any sound to escape to my nearby neighbors. the design will be a simple one; rectangular in shape with no plumbing and probably no windows either. thinking of using sand filled concrete blocks as the walls, built atop a concrete foundation with framing and insulation on the interior for more sound damping. roof woll rest on thick wooden posts and will also be heavily insulated. it would be nice to have a way to get a breeze flowing through there as it is the tropics and im not the biggest fan of ac, but that just might not be possible while also keeping the sound inside.

anyway thats the basic idea i have in my head but im not a very experienced builder and although i could spend days and weeks and months researching, designing and building this thing i would instead like to just hire it out to people who already know what they r doing. problem is i just moved to the island and dont know any competent contractors, especially not ne with experience in acoustics.

i saw there was another thread on here about a build on maui, im hoping that op might have some advice for me. also just hoping that someone might know someone on the big island who is capable of doing the job or managing it or whatever. and if there is someone on the mainland who would like to come out here and work on this maybe we could work something out? i have a small and simple but nice vacant cottage on the property with its own bathroom and kitchen that someone could stay in while building this. so whatever u got plz dont hesitate to contact me lets see what we can figure out. work-vacation anyone? im really motivated to do this so i can jam out asap. getting it finished by the end of the summer would be ideal. its not going to be a business just a project studio and i dont plan on getting a permit for it so that makes the process a lot easier.

thanks!

Pine ceiling - smooth or rough side out?

John N — Sat, 18 May 2013 21:07:01 GMT

here's my question: do you think there will be an appreciable acoustic difference between putting the rough side out or the smooth side?

I just bought a load of shiplap pine 1x8, one side is planed smooth the other is 'combed' slightly rough. I feel that the slight layer of fuzz on the rough side will be warmer and less reflections...

just need a reality check
thanks
jn

How to acoustically treat my room - I have no idea what I'm doing

roozor — Sat, 18 May 2013 18:46:49 GMT

Hi guys, first post here!

I've had a rehearsal room for my drums for a while now. Just been through a weeks process of renovation. I insulated and made a plasterboard ceiling and laid oak flooring.

As you can imagine it's very lively now. Sounds like playing drums in a church!

I need advice on how to acoustically treat my room. I have a full recording rig in there which I will use. I know the basic principles of foam and bass traps. Just need to know where to place and how much.

Thanks in advance.

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Gear > Furman > ????

K. Osborne — Sat, 18 May 2013 05:02:07 GMT

Okay, so I just want to get something clarified.

Hypothetical situation, lots of racks of gear, compressors, preamps, blah blah, the usual suspects, all of them plugged into Furmans/Monster power conditioners. Typical studio, right?

Question one: for the cleanest, most stable power, best case scenario, cost is no object, what is the best way to get power to all of the Furmans?

Question two - what is "balanced power" and why is it so expensive? Audiophile marketing crap? Real deal?

I want to debunk some myths and debates I've been having with myself and fellow engineers. Technical responses are welcome.

Sound proof Sheet metal ducts Help

Bladeboy05 — Sat, 18 May 2013 04:11:52 GMT

I've recently moved my studio to the basement. I've added Acoustic Foam to the early reflection points and got rid of a lot of flutter echo, but now I have one big issue! facing the direction of my speakers 8 feet to the left there is a water heater and the sheet metal furnace, also a sheet metal duct on the ceiling about 6 feet directly in front of my speakers. The problem is is that It's catching a lot of the low end bass which is causing a loud reverb on the low end. how can I fix this? Help is appreciated.kfhkh

wall insulation - more or less glass wool

audiotreat — Fri, 17 May 2013 22:54:20 GMT

I'm in the wall building stage of my project - MAM, wooden studs with 30mm Gyproc on each leaf. Wall studs on both sides are being stuffed with Isover Energylite glass wool Batts (600x1200mm density = 47.5 m/2)

The air gap is on average 300mm between the walls

I have just read many posts saying that when it comes to wall insulation "The pink fluffy stuff is best" We have a fluffy pink glass wool product available locally called Aerolite - its 100mm thick and has density of 12kg/m2. Would this in fact be better than the 47.5 batts I am using despite the lower density ?

Or perhaps because of the ample space available between the leafs I could add another layer of Aerolite over the stiffer glasswool to improve overall performance ?

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

lift table/stand for keyboard

JohnnyP702 — Fri, 17 May 2013 19:01:32 GMT

After many attempts at arranging my small studio, I've discovered that I prefer my large 88 key keyboard to be in front of me at all times. I already have a custom desk so I can't really add onto it. So I was thinking that maybe there was some kind of special stand or table that the keyboard can rest on under my desk right under the keyboard tray. I would then roll this stand/table out from under the desk and then up to wrist level where I would be able to play. Does such an item exist? I posted some pics of my desk for an idea.

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Dynaudio BM-15a Problem

bluevoice — Fri, 17 May 2013 18:21:44 GMT

Hi there

Beforehand: sorry for the long thread but I have a real frustrating and tricky problem.

In my little but nice Homerecordingstudio I record my songs (voice, acoustic guitar and harmonica). Files that I like and are important to me I give to a professional studio for the mastering. I don’t know much about studio technique and mastering. I don’t want to spend much time in trying, tuning etc. and therefore normally like simple solutions and uncomplicated handling.

One week ago I bought a couple of active powered Dynaudio BM-15 Monitors. Of course I need them for Recording/Monitoring but at least as much as a (hifi) speaker for listening music. I always used studio monitors to listen musik (from CD- and later also MP-3-Players). So that side of using my monitors is very important to me.

Now I got a problem with my BM-15s:
Whereas I’m quite content with the way the monitor handles the high and middle frequencies I find the bass/deep lows are not what I expected, especially from a monitor at that price. With about half of the music I listen (also good recordings of Jazz and Classic in wav or apple lossless) the bass is rather kind of humming or in an unpleasant way (to much) vibrating / rumbling / booming than crispy, fresh and defined. I found that this is not a defect but how these monitors really are, as I could listen to another pair of MB-15s. Also the stand, filled with sand and the low-filter of the MB-15s make things only slightly better (also because it’s not possible to point out an tune specific problematic frequencies).

My main concern is not to have a “mega bass” being top of the line in reproducing all the lows down do 20 Hz, but I expect a – as I said – crispy, clear and defined bass (even if it goes down to “only” 35 Hz) that also reproduce the wood of the instruments (e.g. I love Contrabass in Jazz.Music). That second thing alone the MB would do o.k., however with this rumbling, booming etc.

Sure, my room has not the best acoustic and has a size of 20m2 only. Therefore I don’t respect the best results. Still: also under the mentioned circumstances the phenomenon is with it’s distinct tendency unusual and not tolerable. Above that it frustrates me quite a lot.

So I tried to learn something about that phenomenon in some forums (gearslutz and others).
I read, that other people in acoustically better and bigger rooms have or had the same problem with these monitors too. It was also mentioned, that they have a hole between the mid and high frequencies (due to the difference in size between the HF- and the LF-Drivers and therefore nothing especially unusual). I anyway don’t care about that point, because I have not a problem with the BM-15s midds and highs.

The most important posts on the described phenomenon are the following ones:
1. The BM-15 has a weakness between 150 and 400Hz. Could this – beside the frequencies between 35 and 100Hz, which I guess could be the real problem – be also a part of the reason?
And two times I read that
2. The BM-15 really needs a lot of constant power. But they say, the built in amplifier of the active version has not the necessary quality/power the speaker needs. So it would be much better to buy the passive version and a good and strong separate amplifier.

Well, but now I still have the active version and I don’t know whether I can give them back (even though I buyed them only one week ago). If I can’t give them back:
Please HELP!!! What can I do???

Different possible solutions:

A. A good analog equalizer for studio/mixing and musiclistening

B. Analog preamp with EQ, Low filters… for the musiclistening. I would connect it then to an MP-3 Dock (which I haven’t yet) and – over an interface – to my macbook (playing wav and apple lossless files).

C. Digital devices such as Interfaces, Processors etc. for musiclistening. Then I’d connect it to my Mac and my future MP3-Dock digitally (over crossing the internal DAC of the player). Of course the device then should have really good DACs and a good digital EQ.

D. Room- / Tone-Correcting-Systems (e.g. KRK Ergo)

There are quite different opinions concerning these solutions. There are people pretending that even analog EQs make things worse or just don’t help.
Others say, these are antiquated ideas and attitudes and that an EQ can do a good job without raping or changing the signal except there, where it’s intended.
On digital equalizers etc. and especially Room Correctors people are even more critical. Most of the time, the results were not satisfying or often even bad or worse than it was before the correction. And - especially room correctors - are often said to be complicated and that It would take a long time to find out how these devices really work and/or to find the right adjustments (contrary to what the manufacturers usually promise). And that’s what people say who have more or much more experience and know more about studio technique than I do.
But nevertheless there are not few people saying, this was an old idea and attitude and that these kind of tools nowadays – even if they don’t work miracles – can be quite useful and could bring a hearable improvement.

As I said, I normally prefer simple solutions. And I have already spent not little money for the monitors themselves and really didn’t expect some further costs.
That means the solution(s) should be
1. not to complicated, and
2. not to expencive

A dealer told me for example that the Behringer Ultra Curve Pro DEQ 2496 was a good and useful (even efficient) device and in the meantime to be found in not few professional studios (even though many of them don’t like to admit it). And it is quite low priced. I know that the expensive stuff is not always the best and stuff with a reasonable price can be very good.
But still: Can this be? So cheap (some 400 ds) and still so good?

For the already mentioned solutions (without the costs for an MP-3-Dock) I’d be willing to spend up to 1’000 maybe 1’500 ds . If the devices cost more, I’d had to look around for them in the secondhand market.

There is one last option, I’d even be willing to pay more for

E) a subwoofer (although I’m normaly not a downright subfan)

Of course it should – in contrary to the amplifier(s) in the BM-15a – have enough constant/stable power and a precise/stable frequenzy response without holes. It should fit my monitors well, take over the frequencies where the BM-15a have problems to reproduce and transmit only what’s over 60, 80, 100 or 120 Hz (preferably selectable) to the BM-15. If everything fitted very well, in the best of all cases, other correction equipment would be absolutely unnecessary. Could it then even be better as a couple of passive MB-15s with a good amplifier?

Objections and misgivings concerning the sub-solution:

By now I often had the impression, that subs tend to bring along a certain “unnatural sound” respectively an “unnatural or strange” spaciousness. Is it possible to avoid that using TWO subs?

What about the size and power of a sub? Very powerful very low frequencies can cause problems especially in not so big rooms. I don’t want to even have an additional problem, which then has nothing to do with the amplifier/monitor anymore at all.
And as I’m not looking for a megabass anyway, a sub with a 10” driver – same size as the LF driver of the MB-15 – could maybe do it.

At a first glance the two models of Dynaudio seem ideal. Same manufacturer, type and Dynaudio pretends the subs were geared for their MB monitor series:
- BMS9 und BX. Or is the BX to big/strong?

But: If in the MB-15s the problem is the amplifier, couldn’t it be, that there is also the same problem in the active subs from Dynaudio? Maybe a sub from another manufacturer?

If a sub was the solution, which wouldn’t only clearly diminish the problems but even outperform passive MB15s with a good amplifier (maybe in connection with a good and simple analog EQ or so), I’d be willing to pay 2’000.- or more for that solution.

You see, I’m quite helpless.

Therefore I’d be really glad about your opinions and advice

ur’s bluevoice

Even worth treating my room?

shakedatthang — Fri, 17 May 2013 18:19:18 GMT

Hi, I'm new here and just read the stickies. Well primarily the "Acoustics/Treatment Reference Guide - LOOK HERE!" thread and three most recommended links. It's a lot to take in, but I noticed that there are just so many things involved in treating my room that I can't even do! So I was wondering if instead of getting a great monitoring setup + treatment, I would be better off buying a headphone amp and a good pair of studio headphones instead. Before you rush to the "post reply" button to say that monitors are better, hear me out a little!

I have a small, 11 square meter room that I'm renting in a student house. And I can't drill holes anywhere. I can hang things off a railing under my ceiling, but I can't do that everywhere because of the way my room is made (obstructing things on the walls, etc). To make matters worse, I have a built in high-bed that I put my desk under. Even that isn't the ideal position, it's the best I can do in my room. I would reposition everything, put my desk against the window, but then the best listening position would be next to my door... that has a mirror installed on it (so I can't put any treatment there).

There are just so many factors that limit any ADEQUATE room treatment, where I don't even think that treating it even an option, and buying expensive monitors wouldn't do them justice. The only thing I would be able to add are bass traps.

So given all of this. Shouldn't I just get decent monitors to produce on, but do my mixdowns on great headphones? I almost rushed in buying a set of Adam A7Xs, reading that full range speakers would still be better in a small room + treatment, than speakers that lack most sub, but buying high quality full range monitors in my position just seems like wasted cash.

If y'all require a picture of my room, I'll take one. If there's still anything I can do to significantly treat my room where I can justify buying good monitors I'll gladly do it.

I've searched the forum before and I got some mixed results on this. But I suppose I'm asking for people to brainstorm along with me in case I've missed something.

PS. If I do end up getting headphones, should I get an amp or is the one that's in my tc electronic desktop konnekt 6 powerful enough?

Treatment for new room build - your thoughts please!

Neurodriver — Fri, 17 May 2013 16:36:32 GMT

I'm putting together a spec for a 5.1 audio edit/mixing room at the moment. It will be built in the corner of an open plan office, against two exterior walls. I've attached a scale diagram showing the plan so far.

My current thoughts are to stick with the usual advice and add 4 "superchunk" corner traps made from Rockwool RW3, and treat the early reflection points with panels of the same material.

I was also planning an acoustically transparent false ceiling dropped by 300mm, with the cavity above filled with loft insulation for more broadband absorption.

I calculated the modes for the dimensions: The lowest mode for this room size is 40Hz, followed by 57, 65, 79 - the spacing is fairly even until about 120Hz where two axial modes and one tangential mode coincide. This happens again at about 200Hz. I expect that the broadband absorption should counter the latter, and hopefully also reach as low as 120Hz, but would be interested in hearing opinions on this.

For the <100Hz frequencies, I'm thinking that some panel traps might be the way forwards so as to catch the sub bass modes without making the room overly dead. Something along the lines of the BBC A10 perhaps.

Thoughts? Any tips would be very much appreciated!

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Most accurate meaurement

jim1961 — Fri, 17 May 2013 15:16:44 GMT

Attachment 345461

Attachment 345462

Attachment 345463

Attachment 345464

As one can see, whether the chair is empty (green), has pillows on it (red) or an absorber (blue), the measurements change noticeably.

So in a broad sense, what is SOP (standard operating procedure) for taking measurements in the first place and is one of these three ways more accurate than the others.

Measurements are taken with BOTH channels driven, mic pointed exactly forward and midway between them.

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Small room acoustic treatment help

Freeformed — Fri, 17 May 2013 12:12:10 GMT

Hi all,

I have a room in my house with no uses, and i thought i maybe could use it as a studio.

Problem is its very small and i dont know if its too small.

Heres a picture i made, my paint skills are not great i know.

I have like 400€ to spend for acoustic treatment, i thought i could cover the entire room with rockwool, even stack it two times, and glue acoustic pyramidal foam over it.

On the corners i would go for real commercial basstraps, i found a seller that sells 100x20x20 (4 pieces) for 70€.

I am not looking for the perfect room, but neither i want spend my money if the result is bad.

Thanks and have a nice day all!

studio construction help asap!!!!!

ryanvegas — Fri, 17 May 2013 08:19:06 GMT

hey guys, need a little help building my studio thought this would be the place to go, (sorry for no sketch up cant get the hang of it yet, have it soon)

it is a garage. about 75 ft from my house free standing not attached, im not too worried about neighbors, on the tighter side of a budget. started a little framing thats about it.

dimensions 24 ft 8 inches wide by 38 ft 10 inches long with a 13 ft ceiling that is in the shape of a triangle (so its 13 ft in the center and gradually declines in height each side)

approx 920 sq ft to work with.

there are 2 garage doors with i know will affect and i do plan to take them down.

i am mixing/recording anything from metal, indie rock to rap. mainly the first two.

i live in fl and yes it is humid.

i want a live room, bedroom and control room.

some questions i have are ....

1. the floors are cement...should i get wood or stain them or?
2. what to insulate the walls with? two leaf vs 3 or 4?
3. leave the ceiling open? (no drywall ceiling, or just leave the live room with the ceiling?)

etc....

here are the pics (some pics are to show distance from neighbors)

i apologize for the mess.

i need help quick because my contractor friend only can help me on his days off and i have to keep dodging him because i dont want to start building the wrong way then tear it down to do it the right way. boing

thanks!

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Control room too small?

ANALogic — Fri, 17 May 2013 05:45:22 GMT

I have a 10 x 18 x 7,20 ft ceiling .

Is too small even if treated?
My monitor is Adam a7

New room, any advice welcome

rkopald — Fri, 17 May 2013 05:09:43 GMT

The gf and I just closed on a new house, and I have a nice big room for my music now.
Alas, I have to use it as an all purpose tracking/mixing room.

But: It's big. Dimensions are below

16X9 feet
8 ft ceilings

Like I said I am going to track as well as mix in here, so..I gotta make do.

That carpet is coming out and I'm putting either new carpet or wood laminate flooring down.

Obviously I will need asbsorption and bass traps.
Also, at this point I don't know how much furniture is going to be in there
I'm thinking at least a couch.

Any advice is most appreciated.
Thanks!

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Building a cloud, any thoughts on this?

madcap99 — Thu, 16 May 2013 23:46:32 GMT

I'm building my studio from the ground up and I am getting ready to design my cloud. I have seen several examples of this picture

and want to know what you guys think. (Limehouse Studios in London) I think this design comes from RA-The Book, but I am not sure. I can't find plans anywhere on the inter-webs for it and I really want to replicate it. Anyone have any ideas how to build it or have any thoughts on doing a regular cloud instead? The control room walls will be very treated and it will have engineered hardwood over floating floor. Side note it looks like they are using this for wall diffusion as well.

Help with this acoustic treatment?

NewAudioEngineer — Thu, 16 May 2013 22:00:08 GMT

Four hundred and sixty eight point nine

Home studio Echo READ FIRST

Bladeboy05 — Thu, 16 May 2013 19:47:02 GMT

Hello, Ask that you read what I have to say first before responding only because I know the forums whats use to use the search tool, and the guides before making a post. But I read them and they have taught me some things, but usually these people don't have the same problem as me.

The issue - Echoes and some loss of low end.
I have recently moved my home studio to my basement to due to us needing the extra bedroom for our baby that is cooking in the oven. Well the problem with this basement is that it is huge! It's not a furnished basement neither. I get tons of Echo and my low ends which i use to hear in my old studio have some what dampened. The room Dimensions are 8ftx18ftx30ft to floor to ceiling this is 8ft and the room is 18ft by 30ft. The walls are full concrete walls the floor is also concrete. I will also post some pics a visual my layout.of the room.

Visual Room Deminsions
imgbox - fast, simple image host

Photos of Room
imgbox - fast, simple image host
imgbox - fast, simple image host
imgbox - fast, simple image host

POLYESTER and ideas for the studio

jovannyaulet — Thu, 16 May 2013 18:39:42 GMT

Hello everybody!
I'm building a small studio for Vox recording and Broadcast and maybe I'll need some ideas on working with some acoustic materials that I have.

I already have built:
2 walls with 1" thick fiberglass (L: 7'3" W: 11'3" - 1" thick)
Complete wooden floor
1 concrete wall (white paint) - with a 4' x 5' window
1 Wooden Wall (on construction)
The ceiling is concrete too (no acoustic treatment yet)

Now...
I have here a large amount of polyester,
sizes are L: 80' (more or less) W: 2' (1" thick)

The question is: How can I take advantage of this polyester? I know that polyester kills Mid-Range frequencies but, I'm dead in the creativity zone with it. Should I use it for the recording cab combined with glass and a bit of the same fiberglass used on walls? Or use a big amount of it to make a good bass trap? Or maybe fill blank spaces on concrete with it? Maybe at the ceiling or whatever...

Critics and opinions are very very welcome!
deth

live room flooring

ryanvegas — Thu, 16 May 2013 18:11:25 GMT

Buidling my studio in my garage and it currently has cement.

I will be recording live drums.

38 ft by 24 ft with 13 ft ceiling.

Hardwood floors? Laminate keep it concrete?

Let me know what you think or links would be great!

Frustrating waterfalls after massive acoustic treatment (with pics:-)

ajneye — Thu, 16 May 2013 17:59:55 GMT

Hi all. This is my first post... but not my first read. Thanks you all for sharing your knowledge.kfhkh

To make a long story short :

I have been helping someone to improve the acoustics of his room (low ceiling, 15m2). LEDE design with the live end that has lot of diffusion to be able to record acoustic guitar mainly.
Being away, I asked for the impulses to be recorded (before treatment). They have been recorded with balloon pop and zoom H4 (no other gear available). Then I studied the original impulses and set up a list of treatment and where to put it in the room, based on all the information I've found other months (Thanks to Ethan, Glenn, Rod's book and a few others...). You can see the result in the pictures attached.
Now I just got the impulses after treatment and I am trying to compare it with the first ones. At first, I have been disappointed by the remaining presence of great peaks and dips in the low end and the comb filtering in the higher frequencies. Thus, resonances have been tamed and RT has been considerably reduced.

My questions to you acoustic gurus are :

- what do you think of those new waterfalls ?
- why does some much comb filtering remain after so much diffusion applied (note : no smoothing applied at all) ? Why does it vary so much from one position to the other, or from right channel to left channel in XY setup ?
- what in the process of recording the impulses (balloon and H4 XY setup) could have influenced the results in a bad way (I know that omni + swept sine is better but what else) ?
- why does recording position affects so much the result, even for modal resonances frequencies in the low end ?
- finally : what would you suggest to make it even better ? Do you think any mistakes have been done ?

This is a lot of questions I know, but I hope it could serve as a good illustrated example for people in the "next step" process like me.

Any help appreciated !

Cheers from France cooge.

Xavier

Note : commercial treatments used (Europe) : EQ acoustics (fiberglass panels, gobos and acoustic curtain 1kg/m2) ; Vicoustic (polycylindrical diffusion and hybrid "varipanels") ; Hofa (QRD diffusors on ceiling and cylindrical bass traps)

Frequency responses :

Before

After : dead side left channel

After : dead side right channel

After : Live side left channel

After : Live side right channel

Waterfalls 30 to 400Hz

Before

After : dead side left channel

After : dead side right channel

After : Live side left channel

Live side right channel

Pictures of result

Room treatment advice 17x13

Melodicmusic — Thu, 16 May 2013 01:38:16 GMT

Hi Everyone,

I need some help with deciding on treatment to use in my living room which is 17x13 (221 sqft). Long story short I had a spare bedroom setup (all auralex) for mixing but we had a new baby and I had to give it up. I am buying some new monitors now Event 2030's and want to make sure I have enough sound absorption to get a good mix that translates good on all systems. Now I know how to make a great mix after many years of practice. Skill is not a issue but getting better is always something I strive for. Not looking at using auralex anymore as I think there are better options for much less than I paid to treat a smaller room before. I did a search on google for acoustic blankets (moving blankets) because I have heard some pro engineers talk about them as a good way of getting sound absorption at a cheap price that is effective. I found this pack and really am thinking about buying it to help with echo and flutter.http://www.vocalboothtogo.com/acoust...-34#ja-pathway

I did the measurements last night and it would be enough to cover all the walls in the living room. I will be getting some bass traps as well to help out in that area as well. I will be installing some huge king size comforters on the ceiling as well. Bare in mind that this is just for occasional mixing of instrumentals and vocals (electronic music). I need a portable solution as I can't leave this stuff up when we have guess come over. That is why I am looking at the Acoustic Blankets in the link above as my option. Do you guys think this will help me have decent sound absorption and allow the mixes to translate well? I'm not looking for a total dead sound and the room is not overly loud as we do have two couches and a TV in here. Any good options out there or will this work? Thanks for the input!!

THe ROOM

zealy — Wed, 15 May 2013 21:25:57 GMT

Tried recording in a 15th century castle in ireland recently

sounds romantic

what a nightmare.

Spiral staircases were designed to inhibit the home-invaders of the time, and lugging a drum kit up same (5 floors worth~) was not fun

We recorded in the biggest room; at the every top of the castle; no heating but an open fire we froze our asses off.

Heres what I learned: the last thing you are going to feel like doing after all that lugging lifting and dragging is playing music; so the performance will suffer...

ended up not using any of the takes, so it turned into some sort of corporate-style team building exercise for the band,

has anyone any experiences of recording in big rooms, churches, warehouses, etc they would like to share, what are the logistics and was it worth the hassle, sound wise?

ps When Zepplin recorded at headley grange were the walls treated?

abduction

Question about bedroom Studio with one brick wall

-kevin- — Wed, 15 May 2013 21:21:43 GMT

I'm planning on making a bedroom studio, with the top priority being acoustic treatment and not isolation. I will be doing both mixing in it and some recording.

Are there any special considerations to be made with the fact that one of my walls is brick like in this picture? https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20804492/room.jpg

Or will it not make any difference because it's just a reflective surface like all the other surfaces?

Acoustics in basement studio with low ceiling

AASIG — Wed, 15 May 2013 21:08:11 GMT

Hello!

I hope that this is the right way to do it, since Im new on Gearslutz but anyway.
I´m in the beginning of planning a studio which will be used for simple recordings of traditional settings (mostly layers), voice overs, and mixing.

One big problem is the low ceiling which is only 2,15 m. I know that the laws of fysics can´t been changed and that Philip Newell states that you at least must have 2,45m after acoustical treatment and isolation but since this is a existing building I dont have much choice so I`m hopeing for advices from the kind and skilled people here at GS, that can make the listening less painfull.

Of course I´m no expert and welcomes any other suggestions on the project.
Anyway, heres a simple design I created in sketchup.

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110 hz resonance mystery

sixfour — Wed, 15 May 2013 19:43:41 GMT

I've been trying to make my home studio more acoustically legit and I've run into a problem with 110 hz spiking. I know I need more bass traps in the room, but before I invest money and effort in that I want to ask some advice. I've already treated the room's reflection points and have the high frequency under a fair amount of control. I already tried moving the speakers to the side wall, and the problem resonance changed from 110 hz to 87 hz. Here are my questions:

-Will enough foam (Foam Corner Kits) in the corners do the trick?

-Regarding the foam in the link above, it's tested down to 125 hz, but can assume that it would be helpful at 110 hz?

-Or should I plan on some other material? I really don't want this to get too expensive. I'm pretty handy and can build some stuff if there are DYI ideas.

-Do I need to be careful about "over-correcting" the problem and causing a null in the bass frequency?

Thanks very much for any advice! I'm getting tired of banging my head against the wall over this.

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Proposed baffle widths and atypical angles - Mastering Room

Corusco — Wed, 15 May 2013 18:12:53 GMT

I'm hoping to get some input on the front end of my mastering room build as I have a few unusual solutions for flush-mount monitors and acoustic treatment.

Below you'll see a few images of my ideas. The monitors themselves are a mild variation of some well-known and respected monitors on the market, and uses the same drivers and volumes. The baffles themselves make up the angled sections of the front wall. Knowing that the baffle itself could become a radiating surface, it will be constructed of 1.75" mdf, will be braced against the box in several points, and the whole enclosure assembly will be bolted to the concrete floor and concrete wall behind with steel members, which will be filled with sand. It's not moving.

The monitors themselves can't be stuffed all the way into the corner as that puts my listening position in the middle of the room. In order to make room for a couple pieces of gear, I'd like to stay away from the usual RFZ approach of continuing the flared wall on the outer edge (1st reflection points will still be treated), so I've returned the wall surface to parallel to the front wall. This is where my knowledge gets a bit fuzzy on implementing this design. Strictly speaking, this isn't the 2? space with further reinforcing angles that we're looking to achieve with flush-mounting. There could be some mild baffle-step on that far side. Does anyone know of research on single-sided baffle step diffraction? Any experience with this in their designs? I've seen Phillip Newell do something like this, but in wider rooms with wider baffle walls.

You'll see that I have two variations for the baffle width, one at 2.5', the other at 3'. Thoughts on how the 6" difference could play into my solution? With the 2.5' baffle, the drivers are offset in the baffle. This won't be an issue until the very low-mids, but given the baffle width and pseudo flush-mount this could pull it into the realm where sound loses its directionality. Again, thoughts? Formulae to calculate the potential affected frequencies and attenuation? I'm considering the narrower baffle because it allows for some rackspace in the wall and I'm hoping to use that as my 'machine room,' as it leaves my gear accessible, surrounded by sound damping, and vented to a small utility room in an adjacent room.

Additionally, the adjoining wall surfaces are intended to be binary-amplitude-type diffusers with heavy bass-trapping behind. You can see a cross-section in the third image. Considering the angle and relative density of the materials (.5 mdf and 3~5lb/Ft2 fiberglass) I'm anticipating that diffraction will keep the low Waves from the speakers skipping across the surface instead of getting sucked behind the wall. Again I'd like to hear thoughts and math.

I appreciate your input. I read the Everest book years ago, and a few perusals therein during my planning process over the recent months hasn't refreshed my memory on solutions to apply to this. It doesn't help that baffle-step, SBIR, and horn effects of angled walls remain topics of current research and discussion. I've read articles by Lachot, King, and others, but can't find anything concrete. I'm hoping you have.

Thanks again.

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Room calisthenics... Help me tighten the flabby low end!

Timjimbaker — Wed, 15 May 2013 16:53:17 GMT

Hello there… I am looking for some advice to help control the acoustics in my recording studio space. I am particularly concerned with the room’s overall low frequency response and stereo imaging in the mix position. The studio has been open and quite busy for two years now. I’ve been getting some decent sounds but as you guys all know things can always be better with some thought, work and money…

The focus of the studio is to record bands “live off the floor”. Rock, jazz, folk, blues… Basically anyone looking to capture their music as they would play it in a live scenario. Everything goes to tape. Ideally it stays there but more often that not it gets dumped into Pro Tools. Tape is expensive. When I was setting up the studio I happened to read Daniel Lanois’ book “Soul Mining”. In the book he talks a lot about “one room recording”. His approach really suited what I was trying to create with my workspace. Being in the same room as the musicians was worth more to me than any benefit I might get from some being isolated from the sound of the instruments I was trying to record. I also figured I might be able to get better drum sounds in one bigger room as opposed to dividing it up into smaller rooms.

The studio is a barn shaped building that stands about 40’ from my house. I live in the county away from the highway so I have never had any issues with out going or incoming noise. It’s 27’ 7” X 17’ measured from the inside of the walls (5/8” drywall one layer). The structure is insulated with R12 pink insulation and a sealed vapor barrier. It has a peaked ceiling that’s 8’ to 11’ with the ridge running the 27’ length. The 2X4 trusses are of standard design and spaced 19.2” OC. They are left open to expose the peaked ceiling, which is covered with 5/8” drywall. I built the ceiling by carefully piecing the drywall around the trusses and then taping and mudding it neatly and tightly to seal it. I covered these joints with 1 X 4’ pine strapping which was sealed in place by acoustic sealant. The whole ceiling was a massive jigsaw puzzle. I’ve done a decent amount of drywalling over the years and this was the most difficult and time consuming. It looks nice though.

The acoustic treatment I’ve tried so far is minimal and fairly uneducated. I’ve put bass traps 2’ X 8’ (4” rockwool hung on wood frames) in 3 of the four corners. The exterior door is too close to the fourth corner to put a trap there. I hung four 2’ X 4’ absorbers made from 2” owens and corning 703 and suspended on wood frames. I placed two on the wall directly behind each speaker and hung two from the bottom of the trusses above each speaker. I hoped these would help the stereo image by combating early reflections.

I’ve just got myself one of those Radio Shack SPL meters with an analog output. I’ve been poking around with the Room Eq Wizard software but I seem to be too much of a knucklehead to figure out how to get the program to work properly with my converters. I am hoping to get it or another program like it working very soon so I can add the data to this post.

The most notable problem in the room is low frequency response. When tracking a band I’ll usually mic the drum kit minimally. I leave the bass amp in the same room mic it with one mic and throw a divider somewhere between the speaker and the drum kit. I like the sound of recording like this. The problem is that if the bass is loud enough that the bleed from it becomes something I have to incorporate into the mix (with low volume bands the bass bleed is negligible). I start getting some nulls and to a lesser extent, peaks. I had a recording a while ago where a 9-piece Afro Cuban band was tracked on my 1” JH 16. The recording turned out well except there was a distinct lack of the bass guitar’s low G on one song in particular. I’ve noticed that octave of G and C can be problematic.

When I am mixing, I find the bass can be pretty mushy. It is hard say with any certainty with out any room measurements but things start to get smeared around 250 Hz and below. It is gradual and seems to get worse the farther you go down the spectrum. The stereo image from the mix position is as good as I would like it to be. The treatment I mentioned earlier helped but not enough.

I realize acoustic treatment of one-room studios is difficult. On one hand you need the room to be “live” enough to record in but “dead” enough to mix in. My studio is jammed with gear and instruments. Wall space is limited. I would appreciate some advice on what I could do with the ceiling. A local mastering engineer told me the biggest built-in acoustic feature in his room was a membrane bass trap spanning the entire ceiling. He noted it really cleaned up the low end. His room sounds excellent. I thought this might be something I could do partially or entirely. Ideally I would like to keep the volume (square footage) of a room with a peaked ceiling but use some of the free space within the trusses to help control the low frequency response. I could also use some feedback on whether this might work for me. I’d also appreciate some thoughts on the speaker placement in my studio, on what I should do with the absorbers I have and on adding additional absorbers/diffusers or other devices with the goal of a better sounding room.

I’ve attached some crappy computer drawings of the basic studio layout, the shape and measurements of the building (the measurements are from the inside) and a drawing of the truss design. Thanks for taking the time read my post. Please let me know if I have missed any information. Best regards, Tim.

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How do I sound proof a bi level house?

seiyafan — Wed, 15 May 2013 16:19:57 GMT

What are some of the ways to sound proof the second level from the first level in a bi-level house? I am thinking of blowing cellulose into the floor gap to reduce air born noise. But some noise in the living room and kitchen can still travel through the stairs and the door leading to the lower level, is it possible to build a glass wall at the top of the stairs to seal off the top level?

Optimum Distance Btw Monitors

radicalgel — Wed, 15 May 2013 13:43:37 GMT

I sit in a treated 11'x21' foot room with my HS80Ms firing down the length of the room. I currently have them 5' apart and 5' away from me. I just want to know what would be ideal for a room this size. What are the advantages/disadvantages of increasing or decreasing this distance? I have heard in several places that putting them farther apart will improve the stereo image so what are the benefits of having them closer together and nearer to me? Having them 5' apart also puts the side wall just 2'6" away from the tweeter. Is this a problem?

Seperating Wal....Kind of

gyrohead — Wed, 15 May 2013 11:56:11 GMT

Hi

I am constructing a small home studio in my attic and have a separating timber stud wall between my noise source room and shower room. Above this wall is a triangular area which I need to separate as well between the studio area which has cathedral ceiling and the open loft space. I have taken a picture to try and help show the area. I need to work out how to construct and separate this section.

My thinking so far would be to construct stud frame off of the roof rafters down to the cross tie and then add mass by fixing up some dry lining boards.
Should I try to keep the stud work for the separating area cushioned off of the roof rafter and cross tie by using rubber pads.

Gyrohead
‘is my head spinning or is the world’

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Headphones or Monitors in untreated bedroom

Amywamy93 — Wed, 15 May 2013 11:33:42 GMT

Hi everyone :-)

I'm going to be buying a Mac, an audio interface, and some other simple stuff. I'm just starting out and my question to you is:

My bedroom is completely untreated, and it will be when I've bought my equipment, would it be better to mix with some good mixing headphones, or buy some KRK Rokits and mix on them? I think it might be better to mix on headphones sine my room is untreated, but I know you should mix on monitors.

Help! :-)

Huge frequency response deterioration with laminate flooring

sonic secrets — Wed, 15 May 2013 08:00:38 GMT

Hello everyone!

Thank you all for posting so much useful info.

I am building a small studio at home. It's in the attic of a wooden house with drywalls. Long walls are angled. Previously there the floor was just wooden planks covered with painted cardboard). Mix position was set according to the 38 percent rule. Imaging was perfect, no low end issues, just needed some mid- and high freq treatment to lower RT-60. Then I installed laminate flooring in order to make things look better, cause the floor was old and uneven.

Immediately I noticed unbelievable bass cut and uncomfortable effect in the mix spot (feels like a phase issue). If I move to the left or to the right, bass appears there. What have I done... I ruined everything. It feels so bad that I don't think acoustic treatment will solve this issue. I moved the speakers and now it is better. However the move was radical (now I sit next to angled wall). Still it is very boomy in the angles and near vertical walls.
I will post some pictures later.
I will appreciate any advice.

I was going to cover walls with 2 inch rigid polyester batting. Should I change approach and fill all boomy spaces with it instead of covering the walls?
Thanks. :facepalm:

Control room advice

Thenewexhibit — Wed, 15 May 2013 02:45:47 GMT

Hello! Long time lurker and first time poster.

I'm trying to evaluate our control room and was looking for some advice as far as setup and treatment goes. I have some pictures included, as well as a pretty terrible :facepalm:, but "should get the point across" DIY drawing of our room. (Please note that those dimensions are approximate, give or take 4-6 inches) The dotted line that says "3 ft." represents an angle in the ceiling that comes forward about 3ft, starting at about 5 ft. up that 14 ft. wall (make sense? wworried.

Right now, the studio is a little messy, but as you can see by the pictures, we're facing the 14 foot wall with the angled ceiling towards us. We were considering placing everything on the opposite 10.5 ft. wall with the window, so that our backs are to the 14 ft. wall with the angled ceiling, utilizing more comfort for the clients (as well as better symmetry for the monitors and listening position?? wworried ).

Would this be a good idea, bad idea, or irrelevant to our situation? From what I've read, symmetry is the key, so that's why we were considering the opposite side, as the monitor's positions aren't equidistant from the walls right now, (making the reflection points and timing off, i.e. right monitor sound buildup by the door and surrounding walls, and, the left monitor hitting the back 10.5 wall... does any of that even make sense? Yikes!!!).

Love to hear your thoughts.
Thanks in advance! :)

Mike.

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My monitors aren't equidistant from the sidewalls, should i move my desk?

musikmaschine — Tue, 14 May 2013 18:36:32 GMT

It's 209" from left wall and 136" from the right wall so is that wide enough to not really worry about reflections?

I'm facing a fireplace with 4" panels on the front wall, 1 angled at about 60 degrees behind each monitor and cause the rooms quite wide i'm going to put an absorber either side of the monitors for early reflections, this improves the imaging quite a bit.

If i moved 32" to the left it would be an off centre to the fireplace which i'm using as a big bass trap and it works well, also it would be an odd setup for my room layout.

Acoustically with absorbers it's pretty good, could be better but i use Arc so i'm trying to get things set up a bit better before i do a new set of measurements. Thanks! :)

Concrete floor confusion

locyedwin — Tue, 14 May 2013 17:33:01 GMT

Hi all, I have been reading through different forums to gain insights for constructing a studio. Concerning floor isolation, I have some general ideas on that, but there are also conflicting ideas which make me confused.

Okay, let's not consider floating floor due to budget and loading concern.

After rejecting the idea of floating floor, I saw many people recommended that if your floor is a concrete (e.g. 4"-6" thickness, then you should not worry too much about it, you should rather worry about flanking noise or wall...etc. Is this statement true in general, or have I misunderstood/misread?

And then another question arised, when one says concrete floor, does that means a concrete slab lying on the ground? But what about concrete floor that is on the second floor? Would they behave differently?

And in some posts, I read that concrete is a medium that allow sound to travel the farthest (or at least very far). Some also said that concrete is excellent medium for sound transmission? mezed

And then I read about flanking issue (Acoustics Forum • View topic - Estimating flanking thru concrete), so can concrete floor form a very efficient flanking route for sound? So for example, two rooms are adjacent to each other, their walls and ceilings are decoupled from each other, but they share the same concrete floor. Would the flanking issue through concrete be a big big problem?

Then if concrete is causing so much trouble, why people would suggested that "if your floor is concrete floor, you don't need to do floating floor [when you are on budget], and don't need to worry about the floor?"

Does it mean that using concrete floor is just "better than those poorly designed floating floor", but it is still very undesirable for attaining isolation between adjacent room, and causing much flanking problem?

And would the sound travel by the concrete floor "excites" all the walls attached to that conrete floor, thus causing the sound to travel everywhere?

Sorry for bombarding you guys with so many beginner's question. Just hope to get things a little bit clear heh

Walk-In wardrobe as makeshift vocal booth?

readaz — Tue, 14 May 2013 15:23:07 GMT

Hey guys
I'm in the process of turning my bedroom into a small home studio. My main issue is that my room is untreated and is particularly playing havoc with vocal recording in the room. However I am considering turning my walk in wardrobe into a small vocal booth.

It's around 2m by 2m and currently has clothes hanging either side of it. I already notice the wardrobe has very little reflections and seems to clear up my recordings. However I also have a huge box of acoustic tiles and treatment which I would place in there to dampen it even more.

I would also place my guitar amp in the room as I could isolate it, keep neighbours happier and be able to get more volume. I'll be recording guitar with an sm57 and an sdc, vocals with an Ldc.

Does this sound like a good idea to get cleaner recordings? I searched but didn't find anyone else in a similar situation.

Thanks.

Awful room.. Need an advice

benjj — Tue, 14 May 2013 13:45:37 GMT

Hi,
my room is the only place where I can spend some time mixing.
It's a very small room, full of stuff that i cannot move, with a small table where i place my macbook and a pair of small studio monitors (5").
Behind the left monitor there's a window, as shown in the drawing.
Is it so bad for mixing? Am I going to have big differences between left/right monitor signals? Any advice? (I cannot change the position of aything!).
Thanks.

Filling hollow floor

leddy — Tue, 14 May 2013 01:33:32 GMT

Quick help...

Building a practice room for my son's drums. The room was an addition put on by a previous owner, who built into the garage. He laid 2x4's and plywood decking over the concrete to build it up to the rest of the house.

As expected, it is quite resonant.

Options:

Drill holes/pry up decking and fill with sand.

Lay more decking, like concrete-like tile backing (not drywall, the stuff designed for bathrooms) - whatever it's called.

Other?

I assume expanding foam would be useless?

Thanks.

Upholstry grade foam

Tommycash — Mon, 13 May 2013 20:45:29 GMT

Hello Gurus. I'm currently demoing a former vocational school and have come across a mountain of foam. They are mostly 2 1/2 ft x 5 ft x 5 inch slabs. Others are cut in various shapes but the thickness is consistantly 5 inches. I took home 8 slabs and was wondering if there is anything I can do with these (bass traps, wall treatment ect.) or did I waste my time bringing this stuff home? Sorry for the newb question but after doing a search all i found was an argument between the OP and some other members. Thanx in advance.

New Bedroom Studio - Advice Needed!

Whatever Will — Mon, 13 May 2013 19:40:39 GMT

I'm in the process of putting together a new bedroom studio and am trying to determine the best placement of my monitors and how to properly treat the room

It's 11 feet wide, 15 feet deep and 8 feet tall with a very wide window on one end and 2 doors on the other

I have Focal SM9's and a basic desk. I need to have a bed placed somewhere in this room

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys freshflowe

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Wall frame construction

AW_music — Mon, 13 May 2013 11:26:50 GMT

Hello everybody,
first of all let me say that this forum is fantastic, great informations and nice people.

I'm looking for some basic tips about sound isolation.

I'm doing this between the control room and the live room. Separating the two rooms there is a brick wall of about 15 "(40 cm)
Do you think this may be a proper framing ? or do you recommend something better to improve STC?

I read the various discussion about the triple leaf problem, but I don't understand how to compare it with this situation becasue the wall is thick.
Maybe you have more experience than me so you can you give me more tips and suggestions.

Thank you for your help.

Nico

vpr kind trap

dor baruch — Mon, 13 May 2013 08:50:52 GMT

hi all:
i am working on building vpr traps...my goal is to

* first find if 120\60cm 1mm or 2mm metal plate is Effective Especially in a "small room" corners.

*second to find how much 200\100 will be Better then 2 120\60cm traps

i have 6 1mm (8000kg\3) 120\60 metal plates and 4 2mm 120\60 metal plates (red and White +guitar pic on one of the 1mm plate)

i have 4 200\100cm +-1.5mm metal plate (8000kg\3) no color

*use them for SBIR with free standing monitors

*use them to redirect the first reflections... first away from the Listener to the rear wall second to Variables first reflections times in ms to 80ms

i will use Finnish pine for the simple Perforated frame (2.5cm on 10cm)

i will use Dayton EMM-6 cross spectrum omnidirectional microphone and calibrated Behringer ECM-8000 with rew 5.01

i will use genelec 8050B and\or custom 40hz-30kh kef masterpiece (3000 cross over freq)

directed to the low Opposite of the room corner (the mic on the Upper Opposite corner) 0 45 and 90 Degrees calibrations (if Necessary)

the room is 3.9m L 3m w 2.6m h
(i will use other room too)

my only Problem is that i Can not decide which type of adhesive to use
3m90? and i have 9000 or 12000 cps Viscosity polymer adhesive.
Can anyone advise me on a specific adhesive

i find some of the room modes but Meanwhile I decided it is less relevant and I am looking for a total change in the freq response of the room.

the room is made from 35 cm Reinforced concrete(the big metal strips type) with acoustic door... this room is made to Stand in Missile attacks deth :)

what more Information to you think i need to Share with you?

first pic will come soon

Monitoring at a Standing Desk

edwardlee — Sun, 12 May 2013 22:31:55 GMT

Hey everyone. I have been lurking for years and as I am transitioning into getting to do this stuff a little bit more full-time, i figured it was time to start participating in the conversations a little more. or any at all actually

Anyways, I do all of my production work at a standing desk, i have back problems and it is essentially not great for my longterm health to sit down, so just getting a sitting desk is not really an option. It also really improves my workflow significantly!

I have been having a hard time finding monitor stands that make sense for these purposes and was wondering if anybody had any thoughts about a good purchase?

I have found things like the Ultimate Support ms80's, but those are not at a high enough position for me, and i need to get them up another foot or so.

Feel free to lambast me, but i am currently using BM5A's that are sitting on mopads on top of milk crates on top of my desk. It is clearly not what i want in a critical mixing situation.

Perhaps getting some taller stands and pulling the desk out is the only way to go, but i have found that to be really expensive and do not really trust 1200 balancing that high off the ground.

Look forward to hearing thoughts from people with much more wisdom than I have.

LA Sound Panels, who uses them?

zephonic — Sun, 12 May 2013 05:29:48 GMT

Their prices are very reasonable and the website looks legit. Only thing is they use Roxul rather than the 703 everybody here on GS raves about.

Anybody bought anything from these guys? Good/bad experience?

Acoustic advice for my HT room (pics inside)

TrueBeliever — Sun, 12 May 2013 03:04:12 GMT

Hi people.

I am trying to make my HT room sounds better.

*Update*
Room dimension is 4.4mx6.0mx2.5m

So, I am planning to do something like this:

Add 4 soffit basstraps (made of rockwool 30kg/m³)

2 front - 45x45cm
2 back - 30x60cm

Add 2 QRD n 13 diffuser on first side reflections (design frequency 600hz)

Add 1 QRD n 31 diffuser behind my couch on back wall (design frequency 800hz)

Add a Skyline diffuser to the ceiling.

One last detail, my walls are made of brick and concrete.

Any suggetions ? I will do everything by myself.
Would you change something ? I am trying to make my room more enjoyable, and my ears are not used to good sounding roons.
So, I have no idea what kind of acoustic design would fits my need.

Two pics of my "project" below:

*Update*
My room sketchup file (click here)

Measurements(rew file) don't include any kind of treatment yeat, just same layout.

Attached Thumbnails

Attached Files

my room measurements.zip (2.98 MB)

Listening space: deciding on absorber thickness (waterfalls)

hifitubes — Sat, 11 May 2013 22:40:10 GMT

Hi all,

I'm settling into our new house and starting down the road of room correction with Audiolense and J. River 18. I think this room has potential, and I cam currently working on some more absorbers. The house is so live with all this tile and a VERY high stairwell in the next room. I actually plan to put absorbers way up on the ceiling in the stairwell to mitigate "family" noise i.e. 3 & 6 year old. Damn it's live in here!

I'm planning to put some absorbers up in the rear wall up high, since I have a standard sliding glass door there. I'm thinking about (3) 4'x4' panels of rockwool that are 2" thick, 2" off the wall on a frame.

I'm also trying to possibly do the same amount on ceiling to finish off RFZ. I don't think it will be overkill since the house is tile and the room is kind of big, and currently quite live. Maybe I only need (2) of these larger 4'x4' squares up there.

Also planning on building a small mini super chunk. I'll take pics of that idea, and the room shortly.

The rockwool I am using is 70kg/m.

I have some tri-corner panels from Primacoustic that are going in ceiling corners, possibly with a little pink fluff behind them.

I think this room has good potential. Curious about the glass windows and sliding doors 7-8 feet behind my head BEHIND curtains; I wonder if there is a glass tinting-like material I could use to deaden the glass, or if the curtains will be enough. I'd rather not have to hang temp. panels up there if possible.

I'm using the MPR1 mic pre and calibrated mic kit. My subwoofer is broken and I have not yet done unique L/R sweeps. These speakers start to roll off at 80hz.

The speakers are 8ft apart and I have a chair I like to put in front of the velour covered couch at about 8ft.

And another waterfall with 1000ms:

And here is the .mdat file: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4DC...BsTnZqRHM/edit

Building a home studio, need hints

Prehoffer — Sat, 11 May 2013 19:06:13 GMT

Ok, im thinking of building a decent home studio for different kind of things.
Gear i owe is pair of KRK vxt6, and imac and some synths, and im looking forward to make and perfect audio interface for a price. The main thing i want to achieve is sound quality. Im having two builds in mind. I already owe allen & heath zed 24 and the main question is, is it better to buy an Avid Mbox pro or similar interface like rme (for around 1000 euros) and simply connect it with XLR cables with zed 24 or getting a fully digital mixer like presonus sl 16.0.2? As i said i the main goal is sound quality and im producing music from live band funk(what musicians use guitars over 5-10.000 euros, drums,keyboards all analogue ofc with cond. microphone and etc) to fully electronic tech house, so im willing to make some good environment. Please give me your advice how is best to spend this money in order to make studio like i described. Thank you very much.:synth:

HobbitHoleStudio - how does it sound now?

jeff_free69 — Sat, 11 May 2013 18:14:39 GMT

I'm happy to say there's only 4 major problems in my basement studio:
- low ceiling (6' 8")
- cement walls
- cement floor
- back wall is ceramic tile on brick in a bay window ( semi-oval) shape

I've made pretty good progress (thanks to this forum!) over the past 6 weeks. I'm not sure how much more I can do, or how much I need to.

The studio is sounding better than ever, but my question is :
"If it sounds so good, why does it still measure so badly?"

I've made literally hundreds of measurements trying all sorts of variations in positioning and treatments. Each step on the way was measured. If it didn't "help" it was undone. This meant basically looking for a couple of db improvement in taming a peak or null. When one thing got better, something else often got worse. Sometimes it was at another frequency or maybe it was the other channel.

Having spent many hours pouring over the overlays, I'm wondering what your experience tells you are reasonable compromises to accept or not. And hopefully figure out how to solve the stubborn ones.

DanDan had some good general guidelines in another thread, so I'll repeat them here:

"I recommend applying priorities.

Globally nulls are more damaging than peaks.

The biggest proportion of energy and defining fundamental tone is at LF. But not all LF is equal.
20-40Hz, rumble, gratuitous bigness, hardly vital, nor audible on smaller speakers.
40-160Hz Musical fundamental notes, crucial.
Kick area 60-70 deserves special focus.

Acoustic music deserves special focus on the 85-105 region. Acoustic guitars resonate, boom, in this band.

160-320, warmth, peaks can be tamed, nulls would be worrying.

4K up is easily dealt with by HF reflection killers and simply adjusting the level or Eq."

I'm going to post some graphs and photos below...stay tuned

Best way to figure out what room needs?

salbinti — Sat, 11 May 2013 17:04:05 GMT

Hi - I have been browsing thorugh this forum for about 1 hr now, and there is just so much info... I was hoping someone could answer this for me.

What is the best way to figure out what I need to do with my room? Currently, it sounds ok - I guess... I have a couple of bass traps up, but wanted to do more - if necessary. How does someone go about figuring out if the room needs more bass traps/acoustic panels, and where? Is REW the best way to go?

Thanks for any insight.

My Garage At The Moment (what do you suggest)

ryanvegas — Sat, 11 May 2013 11:48:30 GMT

This is my 2400 sq foot garage and I would like to know the best ways to go about turning this into my studio.

I am going to be recording live drums.

Any input is helpful

I apologize for the mess
:)

Attached Thumbnails

Recording studio/mixing/bedroom acoustic treatment help

deanmcginnes — Sat, 11 May 2013 09:17:10 GMT

Hey guys,

im new to the form so hello to you all !! Im a music composer for films and TV and I'm about to move house and when i do i want to acoustically treat the room I'm moving into. It will be my bedroom/living spaces as well as the basis of everything i do for music. Would love to have a spare room but just have to work with what i have got just now. So unfortunately there will be a bed, wardrobe, clothes etc but this will help dampen the acoustic and less echo/slap back I'm hoping.

But I would still like to have a basic acoustic treatment for the room so it will help more when mixing and mastering and recording instruments. So im planning on having panels at either side of the speakers one at front and one at the back wall. Plus hopefully one on the ceiling about where I'm sitting. And if i have the space then bass traps at each corner. Just your basic treatment.

I have read lots of great info from you guys and I have made my decision on what to go for/ I hope its ok !!

So for a general acoustic absorber I'm going to be using ROCKWOOL 60kg/M3 75mm.

For the bass traps, I was looking at having the same ROCKWOOL and using two pieces instead of one so I have 4" or even better 6" bass absorbers. I read this is essential for bass traps. Or should I go for higher denser rockwool for the bass traps ROCKWOOL 100mm-thick 100kg/m3 ? Would this be more beneficial ?

Im also guessing for the bass traps I need them to longer so they can go from floor to almost ceiling height ?
Attached is a photo from the room, its a bad photo i know (i never took it !) but it has all the walls of the room. So glad its not square ! Its not small but not large aswell.

My plan is to put my desk where you see the keyboard. As i read its better to go on the smaller wall. Its anoying about the window ! As i hope this wont affect the sound to much, the wardrobe i can move anywhere ! I can really make this room any way i want it, flexible which is good. Anyways I have talked to much !

Any advice is much appreciated !!

hope to hear from you guys

Dean
Dean McGinnes Music Composer

Recording studio/mixing/bedroom acoustic treatment help

deanmcginnes — Sat, 11 May 2013 08:20:58 GMT

Attached Thumbnails

What is a good/decent interface?

AlexTorres — Sat, 11 May 2013 06:04:43 GMT

I've been using a samson c01u condenser mic for the past 2 years. I just recently got a job so I'm looking to upgrade my everything I have. I'm also using M-Audio AV40 monitors which I'm hoping to replace with yamaha hs50m's (unless you guys have a better suggestion). I'm looking to spend around $200 on an interface (maybe a bit more) and no more than $300 on a new microphone. Any suggestions? I will be recording hip hop vocals.

Tracking drums in this garage.Its big and full of tyres

guitar dan — Sat, 11 May 2013 02:33:34 GMT

Ive been looking for a room to track drums in for a while.I have a small bedroom in a chalet with an 8 foot ceiling that i was planning to treat and just make the most of a bad scenario, but my mates dad has a large tyre garage we could possibly use.Its about 30 foot by 60 foot with a 14 foot high ceiling.Its rectangle i shape.The walls are concrete and so is the floor.There's alot of tyres in there aswell.Any thoughts on this room to track drums?

Help with garage tracking room construction?

Simon.LSA — Fri, 10 May 2013 11:44:56 GMT

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some help in the final design for my tracking room, which will be in a concrete garage behind my house. To give some background: I'm a young sound engineer from Scotland and I've been recording music for myself & others for around 7 years. I work from a converted room in my family home and on location, mainly recording solo acts & bands ranging from folk to metal genres. This means recording live drums etc. I also produce my own electronic music, soundtrack work etc from the converted room at home.

More space has been a long-term goal and I've spent the past year researching & planning ways to make this a reality. I have recently had the opportunity to have a concrete garage built at the back of my house and construction finishes any day now! Finally I'll have more space! kfhkh It's not going to be the amount of space that i would have liked as the garage will be shared and therefore has to be split into two halves. Yes, this will unfortunately mean a square room, but i may be able to change that... I'll get to that shortly. :)

Here is the garage just now towards the end of construction:

The dimensions of the garage are: 20ft long & 12ft wide. Walls are 8ft high rising to around 12ft at roof peak.

As i said the garage will need to be split into two sections. The front half (with large garage door) will be a family storage area and the back half (with the side door) will be my tracking room. The space does NOT need to be split 50/50%, but i will need to allow space for the depth of the large front garage door as it will open up and into the garage. This door will be around 7.5ft tall and including the remote control mechanism, will take up around 8ft of the depth of the garage when open fully. This leaves me with dimensions of around 12 x 12ft at the back to work with. The cube dilemma! This isn't helped by the fact that even if i can find a way to extend the length of my section and still allow for the big garage door to open, the window is right after halfway from the back, meaning my options would be: To either sacrifice space and keep the window out of my side or to extend the space and bring the window into my section. However, given that i have to allow depth for the front garage door to open, this could mean that the maximum point i can build my section to is in the middle of the window, which would render it useless to both myself & the family section of the garage. This is not really an option. gruudge

I have done a lot of reading on room ratios and i know the small cube situation isn't good, but i would love to be able to get close to something decent and workable with my dimensions. If i had it my way the big garage door would be another wall and i would have the whole space! heppy

I am going to be building to the 'room within a room' style (for soundproofing as it's residential), with the concrete floor being the only contact between my room & the outer shell of the garage. I will be building a wooden stud 'box' frame, 4 inches away from the side & back walls (enough/too much???). the stud frame & 4 inch air gap to the exterior walls will be packed medium-full with 30-40kg/m3 mineral wool (rigid sheets aren't ready available to me) and then two or three layers of 16mm plasterboard sheet will be attached to the stud frame walls. The ceiling will be built the same as the walls but I'm thinking of laying the double 16mm plasterboard sheet - ceiling on top of my 'box' frame for mass instead of hanging it from the inside of my room. Chime in anyone? is that a good idea? There will be a heavy door built into my 'box' opening into the room to coincide with the exterior side door of the garage which opens outwards. All joins will be silicone sealed, I'll be making sure there will be as few points of transmission (screws, nails etc.) as possible in the construction and the only point of contact between my room & the concrete garage shell will be through the concrete base, which I'll be leaving as bare concrete once the tracking room is finished. I'm not wasting my time even debating about 'floating' floors, tennis balls, rubber de-couplers etc. I have an 8 inch concrete base and the ground underneath is all dense clay. That's a great floor already!

That's my basic idea for the 'room within a room', does anyone have any additional ideas to make it better? i don't have a massive budget to work with on the interior so all efforts need to go into doing it right instead of doing it twice. ;)

Questions! Should i build my rooms corner bass trapping into the walls, removing the right angle corners during construction or should i build the room as normal and trap the corners afterwards using separate, decoupled traps?

I really need help with creating workable dimensions from what I've got. Should i try and get rid of the square shape at the possible expense of sacrificing space? Should i just go with the maximum space, leave it square and then just deaden the room?

I am open to ideas about the shape and the dimensions, here are some ideas based on the maximum area for shapes i have to work with. What can i do with these shapes or build within these dimensions? The ceiling height has to be 8ft, although if the room was narrower and centered between the side walls, the apex roof might allow the ceiling height to go to 8.5-9ft.

I think that's about all i can think of to write/ask just now. I should probably add that this room will be for tracking live drums, guitar vox etc. I might even do some foley work in there. The control room will remain in the house in the current studio room and communication between any persons in the control room and those in the tracking room will be by camera link, with monitors & cameras in both rooms for easy conversation. I will probably set up some kind of remote system for controlling my DAW using the iPad or similar to allow me to control the session in the tracking room with the band, giving pretty good flexibility. I'll be installing a couple of 24-channel multicores from the control room patch bays to the tracking room wall box through 2" PVC pipe running underground, separate from the isolated electricity feed.

My main issues are getting decent dimensions & making sure my soundproofing is adequate. Unless i have more issues i haven't even realized yet? gooof

I haven't even touched on the subject of interior acoustic treatment yet, I'm more worried about building & soundproofing my 'room within a room' as well as i can just now instead of getting it wrong and having to live with my mistakes!

I am sure some of you can help me find a shape/dimensions to get this right! :)

Thanks,

Simon
Little.Smoke.Audio

Needing help treating a square room with a sloped ceiling!

SouthAucklandNZ — Fri, 10 May 2013 11:16:43 GMT

Hey guys,

Just joined up, been real informative reading through the forums, this is my first time posting up in this great community, would really appreciate someone pointing me in the right direction regarding my little home based recording studio setup....

Being a real novice at all this acoustic design stuff, I've read up heaps here on trapping, insulation panels etc which has been great to learn.
I'm just needing guidance on where to start with treating the new space I'm in, predominantly for tracking and mixing hopefully; (Here in NZ we measure up in cm/ mm metrics, so I've just converted the measurements if its easier for y'all hopefully)

The room is just over 11 feet in width and depth (yes, I know it's not at all the ideal shape), and the front wall ceiling is just under 9 feet, sloping down over my head behind me to a wall just over 7 feet in height. I've also read that this isnt the ideal way to face, but it's just that the short wall has a door in its corner.

What should be my priorities in getting the rooms acoustics under control in terms of traps, ideal mixing position, monitor placement, cloud placement, absorption etc?

Would be hugely grateful for any assistance I can get in this matter. Cheers guys*

How are you guys cooling your studios?

Johnkenn — Fri, 10 May 2013 01:21:15 GMT

I have a 22'x12' room that has an a-frame ceiling and two vents for HVAC. The problem - I think - is that I don't have any returns sucking out the hot air. In the summer, my equipment can get it baking in there. I don't have any windows, but I could get one of those standup AC units and keep it on until we track...I guess something like this:

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...d=0CIEBEOUNMAA

I guess I would have to hook up a "vent" hose and run it through the wall to the outside? You think this is a viable option?

Need help!

BellinghamBard — Thu, 09 May 2013 23:08:02 GMT

Hey y'all,

Second ever post. More of a general cry for help. Here's my diagram (desk and monitors are movable). My budget would be $700, I prefer not to build anything, and the ceiling is off limits. The floor is carpeted and the ceiling is popcorn/asbestos type. Not shown is an 88 key keyboard on a stand and a small 4'/4' bookshelf.

How would you treat this room and where would you place the desk and monitors.

Also, I do have monitor stands if need be.

Would gladly accept any advice, other than "find a new room."

Cheers!

Attached Thumbnails

First Reflection Points Absorbers Construction

alecamp — Thu, 09 May 2013 20:09:15 GMT

Hi, folks.

I´m starting to build absorbers to treat the first reflection points of my small room (3.5m x 3m and 2.8m ceiling height).

I already have 2 6" panels on wall corners, so the next step is to treat the main reflection points.

I have 50mm rockwool panels (64kg/m3) and I am going with 4" absorbers.

After reading a lot, I´m still confused trying to choose one of three ways I have in mind.

1 - 4" rockwool with 6" wood frame (with holes), so the frame helps to keep a 2" gap;

pros: I already have the 6" woods, that's why I am asking if there is a big difference between the 3 approaches
Cons: a lot of work to make holes

2 - 4" rockwool with 4" wood frame (with holes), still keeping a 2" gap when hanging

3 - 4" rockwool with no frame at all, still keeping a 2" gap when hanging

cons: it's a little difficult to hang and and aesthetically worse

Thanks again.

Sit or Stand - New Workspace with Trap Cloud

Musicesque — Thu, 09 May 2013 18:16:23 GMT

First off: Hello. My name is Grant. I'm a DJ/producer/promoter, music lover, and hobbyist with a few releases under my belt, etc. etc...

I've been lurking around for years, but decided it was finally time to join GS (along with getting a proper subscription to SOS for bathroom reading).

I'd like to convey my gratitude to all of you that have imparted your patience and wisdom upon countless threads that have enlightened so many others, and helped with many gear and studio related decisions.

For my first post, I thought I would post some pictures of my recent on-going home-studio renovation. The concept is a work environment where the user can either sit or stand, using one set of monitors that can be rotated depending on which activity they're engaged in.

Since my apartment is an unfinished loft with concrete floors and ceilings, and also because I did not want to position the monitors at one end of the longest dimension in the room, I decided to build an array of bass traps to treat the surfaces above and behind the main production position. I haven't taken any measurements yet, but my ears tell me it's pretty good so far.

The room measures:

15.5' wide
11.5' deep
10.0' high

Again, I did *not* set the monitors up at one end of the longest dimension in the room. This is intentional, and done for the ergonomic "feng-shui" of the room to facilitate it's various uses - and also due to door, window, and closet locations, a wall of records, and placement of a couch under the window.

Attached Thumbnails

Bass trapping for door close to corner?

BellinghamBard — Thu, 09 May 2013 16:31:40 GMT

Hey y'all,

This is my very first post. I will be treating my little bedroom studio sometime this summer and need some advice about one corner. It's a square room and the door hinge is in the corner and when opened it is flush with one wall. So, what should I do with such a corner? Triangular trapping obviously wouldn't work, but could I just put a panel on the back of the door or something?

It's a very small room, so bass trapping is the main thing I want.

Any advice is welcomed!

confoosed

Second Floor Drum Booth. Doable? Worth it?

Rufer — Thu, 09 May 2013 15:58:58 GMT

Hello all.

We recently purchased an old (@1890) townhouse here in DC. I want to build an isolation booth. The basement will soon provide rental income so that location is out, leaving only a small (13’x9’) room on the second floor (above our first floor—not the rental unit) to hopefully construct the booth. The primary purpose of this booth will be to play my small drum kit. I’m not a basher but even restrained playing is still too loud for my family and I presume neighbors.

My plan for the booth is modest—7’ x 5’ and 8’ in height exterior dimensions (my kit is small and I am nimble). I will certainly consult with a structural engineer prior to construction. However the wood floor is sitting on 2”x10” joists that span 13.5’ (the width of the house) and are 16” o.c.

The walls and the ceiling would be “inside out”—2 layers of 5/8” drywall on the exterior of the booth, OC703 between the studs with a permeable fabric on the interior. Thinking now, the booth walls would be a good 4" away from the closest room wall. I guess that would be a single-leaf?

To this point does this sound like a good start for decent isolation? Of course, I have not addressed the floor yet.

So as for the floor—what I imagine to be the biggest concern—I just revisited the Rod Gervais book, which I purchased way back during my first project (on a concrete slab) to learn that a floating wood deck is not a viable option. What I envisioned prior to reading that section, were two layers of MDF (thickness to be determined) on a 2x4 deck floating on something. I also assumed I would fill the deck cavity with 703 too. Obviously, Rod’s passage on floating decks makes me question this (to say the least). Yes, impact noise is a consideration for the room below so according to the book it may not be entirely worthless. I do not however want the two layers of MDF to act as a sympathetic drumhead either. Rod also says that sand does have advantages in dampening a wood deck. Don’t know if sand would put me over the weight limit on my second floor but am wondering about a floating sand-filled wood deck?

I should note that I planned on building the walls onto this floating deck.

I am looking to get some input as to whether my initial plan would be effective for a small booth or as Rod’s book indicates would not. It is my unlikely hope that Rod’s note on floating floors only apply to larger rooms—like I said, unlikely.

Once again, I am hoping to be able to play the drums at a moderate volume without disturbing my co-habitators or neighbors.

I know that I have not addressed the door, ventilation, or electricity yet.

Thanks,
Matt

Spray Polyurethane Foam 2, 6, 8 inch Thick -Graphic Absorption Coefficients in Octave

opacheco — Thu, 09 May 2013 14:14:09 GMT

Hi to everyone!

I have been searching the Absorber Coeficient in Octaves Chart for the Spray Polyurethane Foam in thickness of 2, 6 and 8 inches(5.08, 15.24 and 20.32 Centimeters respectively!) and found NOTHING. All I found is a chart for Spray Polyurethane but the thickness is Lower than I need to know!!.

I need this Chart in order to add to the EASE MATERIAL DATA BASE for a better simulation in a study of acoustics in a very large room with this material applyed inside the roof.

Do someone have or know where I could find these data chart in Octaves?

Thanks a lot for any comments,
Opacheco.

Have to demolish my studio!!!

Andre_Espada — Thu, 09 May 2013 00:35:21 GMT

Hello

Hello

My name is André and this is my first post here. The story here is that I have a spare room at home that, since I was 14, dream about making a studio for rehearsals and some recording. Now I am 33 and with some savings and hours reading this forum, and others, I decided join the venture.

I have started from a tiny live room with 5,60 m of length, 2,60 width and 2,28m height. This is a house with neighbors of each side, but this is at street level at a garage, so I needed soundproofing but not at the top of my priorities.

Did all the walls and ceiling with metal studs decoupled from the masonry walls with Rockwool 75 Kgm and drywall, just one sheet to save some space, and money. Did some tests with a pair of 12" cabinets running 200 watts each, playing some loud music and the soundproofing was best than I was hoping for.

Made some acoustic panels (absorbers’, no space for bass trap) to the walls and 4 corner bass traps. Everything was very nice when I came with my 15" bass rig and all the studio resonates like He was screaming. :facepalm:(rattles). My thought was: The structure was not well made.

I asked for a team of friends that work in the drywall business and they tell me that the structures were very well made.
Ok so I started unscrew the drywall and the resonance continues. Unscrew all the structures that have metal, and.......... The noise was there with no metal at see.

It is impossible to record with that noise in the studio and I don´t Know what to do.

I have been reading about modal frequencies and stationary. But I don´t Know if the sound I hear is the modal frequency of the room or some other structural problem in the room. It comes from everywhere.

Today a sound company went to my studio and they assume this is some modal frequencies and the air gap between the masonry walls (no insulation in) that resonates and make that sound.
I am very frustrated with this because I destroyed my studio to know where the sound came from and have no conclusions. I know... If I made the tests with my bass rig earlier.....

Have anyone experienced something like this?

Can anyone help?

I don’t have here my disk, so I will put some photos soon.

Thanks

Diffusion and trapping - at the same time

Rythm'BackStudio — Wed, 08 May 2013 22:58:16 GMT

Hi everybody

So, I have seen quite a few products which both diffuse and absorp. I was thinking of building my own for my Back-wall. The build would be absorption panels and diffusers in front for diffusing the Highs and Mids. The Diffusers would be these:

Hofa Diffusor - Thomann UK

Would it work, or should I go with something else?

Thoughts on my Room?

jazzman121 — Wed, 08 May 2013 19:01:46 GMT

hey! guys just got some treatment done to my room, had a question... when I get my sub levels set so the room fuzzmeasure graph looks flat, to me sounds like there is not enough low end... but when i crank up sub to where i feel like it sounds right, on the graph the low end seems higher, cant figure out if i should trust my ears or the graph...

Changed Duration to 500ms for this one

Good Monitor Position In Room With Irregular Ceiling.

AdamLs103 — Wed, 08 May 2013 17:34:19 GMT

What's Up Guys?

I need a little help deciding where to put my studio set up in an irregular room.

I've been working in an untreated room for sometime but still get some pretty decent results in a mostly hip-hop oriented field. Im not completely blind with this topic of acoustics but I know a bit and I'm looking to make some improvements to my space.

Here is a basic sketch of my room I drew up in Illustrator.

Attachment 343991

Not spot on but basically holds all the information that you need. The lines with a dotted stroke show a vent on my ceiling that was covered with dry wall. This vent makes no noise but is placed in an irregular spot so Im not sure where to move my speakers for the best setup. Im currently trying to add some acoustic panels and bass traps to my room so that will be addressed shortly.

My main issue is not knowing where to place my monitors and set up.

HELP!!! confoosedconfoosed

Thanks guys. kfhkhkfhkh

Attached Files

AdamsRoom.pdf (200.6 KB)

Recording and Mixing Room Finishing Touches

surgica — Wed, 08 May 2013 16:09:10 GMT

Just about done installing DIY acoustics for my new studio. Done with super chunk bass traps, Absorbers at critical listening spots, Portable Skyline Diffusers and a Ceiling Cloud above mix position. Wanted to check on a few things and address a few problems. Now, I'm not a technical guy and have not used software to check my room settings.

Basically used a Snare Drum and Hand Claps to figure out flutter echo as best I can. Played some Low Frequency sounds and the bass traps seem to be doing their job!

The first half of the room (Mixing/ Control/ Dead) Area sounds awesome to my ears. However, there is some annoying flutter echo when there are sounds produced at the live end corners. What would you recommend I do?

More Ceiling Clouds at the LIVE/ Recording end?
Hanging up Diffusers at specific parts of the room?
Bringing the furniture (Sofa, Drum Riser, Kit) and all the equipment and then evaluating the setup?

I have a lot of spare FibreGlass, Wood and Fabric to use. Please suggest what you think will work best for finishing my music studio which has been one of the most pleasurable experiences I've had! All done mostly on this Forum kfhkh

Attached Thumbnails

rectangle room 5.5m x 2.5m (doors in both short walls) for studio (pic included)?

dr3xl0000 — Wed, 08 May 2013 13:35:38 GMT

Hi,

I have read many articles about monitor placement, here I'm out of good ideas though, mainly because I have doors in the both short walls.

I have this rectangle room 5.5 by 2.5m - that's about 18 by 8 feet for the non-metric users (pardon my poor Paint skills):

The walls are concrete. Behind each longer wall there is a neighbour and obviously I would not like to make things too loud anyway. Doors are ~90cm (3 feet) wide.

I also have around 4000 vinyl records, so I want to build record shelves which probably could also act as something against sound reflections (am I right?).

The idea at the beginning was to make a multifunctional room, not just a studio/music room - meaning that I'd possibly need more closets for stuff. Oh and I would invite some friends over for a studio session as well so there should be room for them to sit somewhere. So my question is, what would be the most optimal way to fit a studio corner, the record shelves, and maybe some closets in a room like this?

Basically my studio consists of two JBL 4408A monitors, a desktop computer, 49-key MIDI keyboard, Native Instruments S2 Traktor controller. Maybe I'll consider buying a turntable (or two + mixer) in the future.

Thank you in advance.

DiY Broadband Absorbers

DesmondA — Wed, 08 May 2013 01:38:26 GMT

I was going to build 6" bass traps with Safe n Sound material for my room, but was told I would need broadband absorbers for my room to help for recording by an engineer. What exactly are broadband absorbers?

Monitor placement against the wall -> flatter low freq response?

yetanotherjosh — Wed, 08 May 2013 00:17:32 GMT

This is a bit of newbie acoustics question but it's been puzzling me as I try to setup my studio in a new room. I have a lot of panels and traps in the room in all the standard positions (corners, reflection points, etc), but am still hearing an eerie, deep null in the bass centered around 50hz. I find that if I push the speakers all the way to the front wall, the null gets better, and if I move my listening position off the 38% spot and forward towards the speakers (flattening the equilateral triangle into a squashed isosceles), I can improve it even more. Doing REW software measurements confirms a generally better response across the whole low-mid spectrum in this configuration.

However, the general advice I've read is to keep speakers a well off the walls and the listening position at 38%. So I'm a bit confused.

Here is what I understand is happening (please correct me): the null is caused by reflections off the wall with inverse phase. By moving the speakers closer to the wall, I rotate the phase of the reflected subs so they cancel less. And as I move my listening position further forward, I can further reduce the phase alignment issue in particular at this one hugely problematic frequency.

My question is, why is is generally frowned upon to have speakers against the wall? Isn't closer to the wall going to reduce cancellation issues at lower frequencies, trading them for cancellation issues at more midrange frequencies? And aren't acoustic treatments easier to manage for mids - so you could more easily absorb the reflections and prevent the nulls withs mids as opposed to subs. So, to my newbie thinking, speakers against the wall with treatments to address the midrange reflections is a general win, and my room experiments seem to validate it.

Can someone explain the flaw in my thinking?

Ceiling Cloud Placement

surgica — Tue, 07 May 2013 16:36:05 GMT

Made 3 DIY Ceiling Clouds (4*2). I could actually use these for anything but was looking at the ceiling as many threads suggest on GS. My question is on placement. My room height is 12.5 feet (17 *15).

How much should I bring down the Cloud from the existing ceiling (12.5 ft)?

Should I angle the resultant 6*4 Cloud in some way? 30 degrees or so?

Should I use the panels which I made for something better? Drum Cloud? Room Center cloud?

Thanks,
Jason

Bay Window in Drum Room - How to handle?

never2old — Tue, 07 May 2013 16:26:32 GMT

Hello. I've been reading the forums for a few days and finally joined.

I would like to kindly ask for your help.

The 18 x 16 foot room (9 foot ceilings, fully carpeted floors) I will be practicing drums (and guitar) has a bay window in the center of one wall.

It's not a true bay window of all glass, but rather 3 separate windows; one window on each wall angle with a bit of wallspace in between them. The windows themselves are not floor-to-ceiling but the bay window wall angles are.

Basically it looks like this: \______/

I have been told that a bay window or any curved/multi-angle walls like this will create some specific echo and acoustic issues.

So my question is... should I keep the drums as far away from this bay window space as possible?

Or can it be used to my advantage?

For instance, placing the kit in the bay window floor space, facing out into the room. Could the angles behind me actually be used in a positive way directing the drum sounds outwards into the room?

Or will it just create a giant world of echoes, reverberations and overtones?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you Slutz. :-)

P.S. - I only have a few acoustical treatments to work with in the room so far. I plan to get more when I can afford it. Right now I have 4 GIK 244 Broadband Bass Trap Panels, and 8 2x2 Auralex foam squares panels.

Big room problems?

Cicatrix — Tue, 07 May 2013 14:54:07 GMT

What are the most common acoustic problems with big rooms when it comes to mixing/mastering music. Small rooms usually have problems with low freq, is it the same for large rooms as well? I have the availability to a 12x20 room and am wondering what problems im going to have with it. I'm also wondering if 5 floor to ceiling wedge style bass traps will be enough for that size room. I'm guessing I'll need some diffusion on alot of the walls as well?

Any thoughts are appreciated, thanks.

Music lesson studio - room within a room?

salseez — Tue, 07 May 2013 14:50:32 GMT

I am doing a buildout for my new music lesson/recording studio--very exciting. I hope to be posting more info on the project as a whole and photos as soon as we get underway, but first I need some help deciding what to do for one part

We will be on the second floor of a huge old brick building. The whole floor is 4200 sq ft, and we will have about half of it. The building used to be owned by a dentist who built the floor up by 24" across the entire second story to run some of his equipment cables underneath, above that its 13' to the roof. We found a spot where we could look at a cross section of his floor and it appears to be two layers of very thick plywood subfloor with some kind of adhesive or insulation between them. The actual floor beneath is concrete.

Now in one of the back corners of the building we want to build a room to do band rehearsal type things (drums, singing, loud guitars all at once). We will have neighbors on the same floor and below, as well as our own lessons in adjacent rooms so we need a good amount of isolation. We are trying to decide if we need to go all the way with the complete 'room within a room' plan, or if we can get away with doing it partially:

This is one thing we are considering, the framing along the brick and the outer of the two interior walls is already existing. We would strip the drywall off of the inside of the interior walls, insulate, and build these new decoupled walls next to them, as well as a new ceiling and 2 doors. We could also do the inside of the entire room including ceiling with GG and double drywall.

What we are trying to get a sense of is how drastic the difference would be between this and building a floating floor on U-boats with 4 new walls and a ceiling on top of it. Does our floor cavity below make things better or worse (with flanking)? Would it help to blow insulation down there?

One final thought: I've read about people using GG to put underneath subflooring, does this work to decouple the floor? Would building walls on top of the edges give you a floating floor/u-boat quality of isolation?

Very excited about this project, thank you for your help!!
Alex

Panels on sidewalls for first reflection points

LFO8 — Tue, 07 May 2013 14:39:29 GMT

I almost always see people attach these in their upright position. I there any acoustical advantage to this?

It seems to me that one would cover a wider area (from front till back of head and some forward and backward movement of the head) when they are mounted on their sides.

I myself have them on their sides.

Tempex to create trapezoid at one end of room

MdJ — Tue, 07 May 2013 11:12:45 GMT

Anyone have experience in using Tempex in studios? Interested if it would work to wall mount speakers..

mixmastered

JAZJETSON — Tue, 07 May 2013 07:06:28 GMT

Hey seeing if anyone here has ever used mixmastered acoustic stuff? I saw they had bass traps for 150 shipped on ebay. I seen a pretty reasonable priced bass trap with a stand so wouldn't have to mess up my walls.

also if there is any other brands around the same price.

Thanks

their site
Acoustic Panels and Bass Traps by Mixmastered Acoustics

the ebay add
Acoustic Panels Bass Traps Size 6ft x 2ft x 4inches 24" x 72" x 4" | eBay

Help treating my small room

Deckdaddy — Mon, 06 May 2013 22:18:31 GMT

Hi!

I have my studio set up in the smallest only free room in our flat. Hobby for the most part, listening to records and making plus mixing my own and some friends stuff. Def. tight budget as I don't get much income and don't want to blow it all on acoustics alone.

The room is 241cm from ceiling to floor, both concrete.

Its' 196cm wide, and those walls are particle board (with some fluffy fibreglass i guess). Door in one rear corner almost all the way into the rear wall. I'll get pictures later on.

It's 247cm deep, with a window in the middle of the front with a particle board or similar wall thats thick with lots of fluffy insulation (as the building got updated outer walls last year). This is where I face towards, with my monitors symmetrically set up. I guess some of the bass escapes through the window, luckily, and some through the side walls/door.

The rear is a brick wall (our bathroom behind it) which I have covered almost entirely with 10cm deep dense/compressed glassfibre panels.

I have crammed the room full of gear: record shelves full of vinyl with synths/samplers on top of them, a wall mounted shelf with a record player plus an Avantone MixCube (not operating simultaneously), a Rhodes piano underneath, a bass amp (don't have to be there) and in front a pretty large desk from wall to wall with a 240 venice mixer, an MPC sampler, an iMac and some rack equipment. Prob a lot of comb filterig going on! Plus early reflections from walls/ceiling.

I can apply some (thin-iah) panels to the side/front walls/round my monitors (CMS 65's hung from side walls, generating lots of strange resonances/harmonics I bet) and maybe around the window. And I'm really thinking about lowering the ceiling with 5cm or 7,5cm or even 10cm compressed glasswool panels about 15cm down (so I'll get some air between panels and ceiling). The ceiling is one of the spots I have room for this kind of treatment, and as both the floor and ceiling is concrete I guess a lot of standing bass wawes are going on between them.

What would you guys suggest?

I want to get the desk out, get the monitors on stands and the rack modules in a floor rack with a tilted face, a smaller desk for just the mpc/iMac, and maybe both angle and lower the mixer a little. But for now I can't expect to do it all, but I want a better room as it's a bit frustrating mixing in there, lots of weird stuff going on!

Thanks in advance.

Please Help Me Interpret REW Graph to Guide Room Treatment Options!

thinksyncopated — Mon, 06 May 2013 21:20:07 GMT

Hello All,

Although this is my first post, I've been reading through the forums for a while, as I am building a makeshift studio in one of my bedrooms at home.

Per the advice of many, I purchased an ECM8000 condenser mic to use in conjunction with REW. After using the advice of some members on the HTS forum, I was able to calibrate the soundcard and produce some (I hope!) useable graphs. Unfortunately, even after reading through many threads and FAQs, I am not entirely sure how to interpret the results of the graph.

A quick background of my room situation and objectives. The room is 11'2" (w) x 12'9" (l) x 8' 2" (h). I have positioned myself ~38% deep into the length of the room, and the other specs of the room are fairly standard (4 windows) despite a 4' x 7' or so full sized sliding mirror door closet, which I imagine is not exactly an acoustic dream. I am producing electronic music and while I am using some live instruments, they are going through an interface and I think recording instruments or vocals through mics in the room is unlikely.

I am planning on adding bass traps to the corners, panels to the reflection points, and debating my options for the mirror. Although I could try to work out a solution with panels (build a stand / hang from ceiling), foam may be the easiest option.

I have attached a graph with Left Speaker, Right Speaker, and both Speaker measurements. Looking for the wisdom of those on the forums and can provide additional information as necessary.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Attached Thumbnails

Wiring up my wall panels between control and live rooms/order of inputs

LoRez — Mon, 06 May 2013 18:56:57 GMT

My apologies if this has been discussed before. Crunch time is starting to happen with my studio build, and I'm trying to get all of the pieces in order.

I'm ordering some custom cut-out wall plates from Conquest Audio here in IL. Plates are identical: 32 XLR male, 32 XLR female, 16 TRS, and some other inputs.

My question is regarding the order of inputs. I'm having them labeled by Conquest as well. Is it common practice to do input numbers left to right on both sides, or to do one side in reverse since they are mirrored? I've seen both in different studios over the years. What's the best practice?

Thanks!

DIY Acoustic treatment with LED lighting

PoleCat — Mon, 06 May 2013 18:05:53 GMT

Thanks to forums like these I was able to check out many designs for Bass traps, acoustic panels and triangular corner traps. I chose the best of what I saw and modified these to my own design complete with integrated RGB LED lighting.

Please have look at them on my YouTube channel here...
Polecat201 - YouTube

Feel free to comment.

Thanks to everyone for the great ideas.

~Paul

Need acoustical engineer in Bay Area to build studio in back yard.

tdbajus — Sun, 05 May 2013 23:18:03 GMT

In the process of buying a house in Berkeley, CA that has a utility hut in the back yard that is falling down and ripe for a rebuild. I can pretty much do whatever I want here, as long as I keep it under $10-15K.

I want to do this the right way, hire someone who knows what they are doing to help me design it. Any recommendations?

Ear Training Program Question

DesmondA — Sun, 05 May 2013 22:10:32 GMT

I was thinking about purchasing one of these programs since I have a hard time picking out frequencies (Particularly mixing the midrange). I have monitors and the Mdr-7506 headphones.

I was wondering with the training should I only test myself in the headphones since my room is still totally untreated?

Laying out and Treating First Decent Sized Room

Dplambe88 — Sun, 05 May 2013 20:17:04 GMT

Hey my names Dave, Ive used this forum for years now and it has helped me treat and setup a few different home studio setups of mine. I have finally found a commercial space to rent thats a decent size and I want to set it up the best I can. Its only a tenant at will lease for now so i can feel out the neighbors and road noise. Its on the second floor but most other tenants will be closed when im there. The space will be used to record full live bands playing everything from acoustic to hard rock for personal use mostly but may have a paying client occasionaly. Budget is very tight , trying to spend as little as possible . Any suggestions would be much appreciated , Thanks in advance

ISOLATION is going to be important but im trying to put as little money into it as possible until i sign a full lease, I completely understand true isolation isnt cheap or easy but any suggestions would help. I was considering making some sort of mdf/fiberglass panels to cover windows. Im on the second floor so i know a floating floor isnt an option for me, Ive read that drum risers wont do anything for isolation but im thinking it would help with the direct impact sound.

CONSTRUCTION. To keep it simple im starting with a one room studio idea with mabe one iso booth(whisper room or john sayers vocal booth). Im not opposed to building a wall if it wont hurt the sound of the room too much and can be done for reasonably cheap. All walls are 1/2" sheetrock with standard isulation and plywood/siding on the outside. Trying to avoid constucting anything that cant be taken apart and reused if this space doesnt work out in the long run.

LAYOUT/TREATMENT. If I stick with the one room studio idea Im assuming that the monitors will be opposite the stairs firing the long way down the room. I would really like to try to record drums under the 11.5ft ceiling unless the 7.5ft area is too small to get a decent result as the mix position. I have some rockwool and fiberglass panels/clouds ready to go and i fully understand how to create an RFZ around the mix position. Im considering building some QRD diffusers if the room is large enough to make them work but not sure where the best placement would be. I have room Room EQ wizard and a measurment mic, i will post some measurements as soon as i have a general layout.

Questions
Is there any benefit at all to putting the drums on a solid riser with sorbethane decouping?
Could the lack of symetry where the monitors may be cause any issues?
Would MDF panels with a Weatherseal over the windows help with isolation?
Could the room be divided in two and still have a great sound?
Whats the best way to treat the vaulted ceiling?
Where would be the best place for the mix position,iso booth and live area?
Would the room benefit from QRD/PRD diffusers? Which "N" to build? And where to put them?

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Roxul (Rock/Mineral wool) for wall insulation question

John N — Sun, 05 May 2013 19:33:53 GMT

OK, so I've already posted a few other questions regarding converting my detached garage into a studio but this is about another aspect of the build out.

The garage is a nice structure already, structurally sound and probably less than 15 years old. The only shortcoming is the roof pitch is kind of shallow for a Maine structure, but anyway... The walls are framed with 2x4s and the roof rafters are 2x6. I'm planning on insulating the walls with Roxul rock wool thermal insulation for its benefits over fiberglass: better R value per thickness, water resistance, and keeping sound in - and out. The garage is small enough for the extra cost to not be a budget buster. I'll probably use fiberglass in the ceiling though unless I can be convinced otherwise.

Is the Roxul a good idea overall and will it also have some acoustical (bass trapping) function installed in the wall?

Overall my plan is to remove the overhead garage door, frame up that wall, install 2 non-opening, horizontal, double-glazed Marvin transom windows there for light; Install a Marvin double-glazed, double hung window on each of the other sides - there is already a window in back facing the woods. I plan to sheetrock the walls and the ceiling which will peak to follow the roof line, I plan to use knotty pine tongue in groove.

The interior dimensions are about 14x22x11 at the ceiling peak.

Slat Absrober(not resonator!)??

adrumdrum — Sun, 05 May 2013 19:03:48 GMT

Have built many Slat resonators and understand how they work but i have less knowledge about Slat absorbers.

So the question is how Slat absorbers work?
as I understand it: A frequency as wide or less than slat width will be Reflected. Frequencies that are wider will diffract in to absorber layer?
The slot? Frequencies that are as wide or less than the slot will be absorbed?
And the% open area is the% absorption it gets from the entire surface?

have I understand any thing at all?

Bass trap corner.

ANALogic — Sun, 05 May 2013 16:20:29 GMT

I wonder if putting some bass trap behind my drum is a good idea..
I haven't tack something yet but the room seems to sound very nice..

Any suggestion?

Ceiling is 3,40 to 2,80 m e room is 4 m larger x 6 longer with a slope wall at the end

Attachment 343547 Attachment 343548

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Is acoustic treatment really that necessary?

chazzercooke — Sun, 05 May 2013 07:33:46 GMT

Hey guys...
Before I start, I know how important acoustic treatment is for acoustic recording, monitoring and mixing in the professional studio.
However... If I'm recording via mic and amp, where room acoustics hardly make a difference, is it really necessary? Also, for issues with monitoring, as I am not going to be playing the music anywhere else but my studio, can I just adjust them to work well with the room? I understand this would be a big no for people professionally producing music for the public, but if the sound is going to be staying within my studio, can it be done? Thanks in advance.

Starting Over - Treating a small room

Destaana — Sun, 05 May 2013 04:47:12 GMT

Hello Everyone

I have taken all my furniture out of my room and I'm starting over. I want to do this step by step and I thought I'd start a thread here, considering there are a lot of knowledgeable people on here.

My room Dimensions are

L = 4.3m
W = 3.9m
H = 2.4m

My first step before getting the treatment in is of course choosing where I'm going to position my self in the room. I have posted pictures of all my 4 walls. I'd like some advice on what wall I should sit on, would really appreciate it.

Also, would you suggest getting a workstation desk like this - Midi Controller 88 Note

Or, get a desk with stands? I prefer a workstation, but if that's not such a good choice, let me know.

That's all I need so far. REW file will of course come later on once I've decided on my setup.

Thank you :)

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Strengthen garage door to studio

ronydarippa — Sat, 04 May 2013 14:27:21 GMT

This is the sports enter my studio and outside Is a parking garage and it's on a busy intersection. the door is metal but hollow and has a glass window in it that can be remover. it's letting a lot of sound in. what can I do to strengthen this door up a bit? i cant go too thicker than extra 5/8 or door wont open all the way. sheet of plywood on the inside with a nice stain finish? Sheetrock?

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Serious Null at 150 hz?

Mikeeyb — Sat, 04 May 2013 06:59:22 GMT

Fixing FR vs. Decay Times

imacgreg — Sat, 04 May 2013 06:37:47 GMT

I am going through the process of treating my room (roughly 15'x15'x12') with bass trapping and have been seeing what appears to be significant improvements in low end decay time via waterfall plots. However, I'm not seeing much change in frequency response.

I'm sort of curious, what gets "fixed" first when adding trapping? As I (barely) understand it, bass trapping can address both problems. Is it a matter of "once the decay times are tamed, the FR starts to get in line?"

Or is it more complicated than that?

For reference, I'm including Waterfall (for some reason FR .png isn't showing up) plots for my room. Before is with a few GIK 242s and after is with same 242s but 4x GIK T40s in corners and a single soffit trap (adding another next week).

EDIT: To clarify, I'm fully willing to go further with treatment, I know I have a pretty non-ideal room shape. It just seems obvious that decay times have improved dramatically without FR changing much. I definitely "hear" the difference so far.

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Acoustisorb 2 better than Acoustisorb 3???

thuntley — Sat, 04 May 2013 04:55:48 GMT

I'm in the process of purchasing some acoustic insulation, and I am rather baffled at the following:

Tontine's Acoustisorb 3 @ 100mm is about twice the price of it's sibling, Acoustisorb 2 @ 100mm - yet the Acoustisorb 2 seems to absorb more sound....Am I reading the info incorrectly?

http://www.tontineinsulation.com.au/...isorb_2_DS.pdf

http://www.tontineinsulation.com.au/...isorb_3_DS.pdf

I thought higher coefficients mean more sound/frequency absorption?

Also, can I use the 100mm Acoustisorb 2 for first reflection points? Or should this kind of stuff just be used as bass traps

It does make a difference...

TeamContra — Sat, 04 May 2013 03:37:24 GMT

So I bought some treatment from GiK acoustics and wow. In not trying to puff them up all I'm saying is going from that eBay crap to this wow. I put some of my old mixes and first thing I hear was the lows and mud. I went all out and remodeled my mixing room. And now I'm going to buy some more traps to cover the rest. Go do it buy the good stuff

Adequately treating my modest project studio (pics)

thewhitecascade — Sat, 04 May 2013 03:16:34 GMT

Greetings, this is my project studio. I am looking for a little advice on treatment.

What I want to do: Mixing, ITB electronic music, recording single track vocals/acoustic sounds. No live drums, no terrifyingly loud amps, mostly direct in/amp sims for electric guitars. Mostly mixing and composing.

My expectations for treatment: OC 703 homemade or equivalent value absorbers on first reflection points]. Bass traps where necessary. Whatever else is recommended.

Questions:

1) What should I do about the windows to both improve isolation from the outside and treat first reflection points.
2) Will a sound panel be effective or useless behind my keyboard stand, aka should I move my keyboard stand?
3) If I only put bass traps on the Left side of my room will that cause symmetry problems, in other words, what should I do about the doors in the corners where treatment is needed?
4) I see a lot of hardwood floors in pro studios. Is a rug or carpet frowned upon and will it have any adverse effects to this setup?

Any other suggestions are gladly appreciated. Any tips on the cheapest commercial absorbers would be great. Thanks!

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Help interpreting waterfall graph of my room acoustics?

Mikeeyb — Sat, 04 May 2013 00:50:49 GMT

Hey friends. First post here, looking forward to taking part in the forum with all you guys.

REALLY hoping some of you can help me out here !

My room is about 22x9. 6 inch bass straps straddling almost every corner (some with that Craft FRK covering thing) with OC703 and some auralex to control the high freq flutter echos. Also 6 acoustic panels between 2 and 4 inches in the different listening positions. First time running this software (stupidly) and thing's do not look too good.

I am not sure how to read or interpret them, but for some reason it seems my low end is HORRIBLE! If someone could break down my graphs, tell me what is going on, and what I should do I would appreciate it. Thank you!!!

NOTE: I posted pictures with just the left monitor on, and then just the right monitor on.

Read more: Help understand first graph! - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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REW Room EQ Error?!

Mikeeyb — Fri, 03 May 2013 23:59:50 GMT

Hi guys. I am trying to use the REW to test the freq response of my room.

I attempt to calibrate it, select the profire2626 (interface) and adjust the level so that it is reading a close output and left input level. The mic I am using is the KSM44 sitting in omni in the middle of my room, ear level.

However, when it comes time to calibrate the "headroom" it is giving me a reading of -86 db. My mic is clearly giving an input but is not showing up even though it reads on the db meter. I think this is during the loop phase of the calibration.

I tried to skip it and just analyze the room, (per Glenn's suggestion) but it still does the sweep and tells me the headroom error that something is not connected properly.

I have a 1/4 cable going from the channel 3 output to the channel 3 input on the Profire by the way. Any suggestions on what may be going on here?

Thanks!

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Need Advice on 4th Bass Trap Placement

tlectual — Fri, 03 May 2013 21:28:21 GMT

Hello,

This is my first purchase of bass traps and I really want to get the set up as effective as I can.

I have 4 bass traps to set up, but if you look at my room diagram (attached) you can see that due to the extra rectangular cubby on the upper left side of the room AND the "angled" corner where the door is, my room is less than a perfect square.

So it's obvious where I should put the 1st 3 bass traps, but the 4th one I am still trying to decide where the best place would be.

1) Should I place it in the far right upper corner? My thoughts are it wouldn't have much effect there since that corner is almost past my hearing reference point and pretty far over from the cubby where my set up is.

2) Should I just double up the corner where my sub is sitting and put 2 bass traps there?, which would pretty much almost provide floor to ceiling coverage for that corner.

3) Or should I place it somewhere else on the rear wall of the studio?

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated. :):)

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Acoustic treating my room tomorrow, final tips?

Justin Luke — Fri, 03 May 2013 21:06:43 GMT

Hi guys, hope you've all had a good week!

Today I ordered this kit + 4 extra bass traps -

Auralex Alpha DST (Charcoal)

Tomorrow I'll be purchasing the Adam A7x studio monitors and acoustically treating my bed/studio room for them (having recently rearranged in anticipation).

I have a rough idea of what to do but was hoping to get some opinions and ideas from some acoustic pro's! Please see below for a few pictures. I'll also be purchasing a new desk, it will probably be roughly the same size but a little deeper, will this make any difference to the acoustics?

ImageShack Album - 4 images

The room is essentially 3.4m square however the fireplace protrudes 40cm and the cupboard 70cm (not sure how vital this is..) Ceiling height is 2.5m.

The mix sounds extremely flat at the moment (no definition in low mids/lows). I'd estimate there is a 1 second reverb (clap test).

Thanks in advance,
Justin.

Acoustic Panels .. Pyramid,Flat?

RichGardner — Fri, 03 May 2013 17:51:23 GMT

hey guys.. :)

i wanna build a Vocal Booth for tight sounding vocals..especially for rap!

but the problem is.. there're different acoustic panels to buy, like pyramid,
flat ones, etc...there are also differences in thickness.. it also influences the rate of absorption...

for example... Flat :

Akustikschaumstoffe aus Basotect

Pyramid here :

Pyramidenschaumstoff online bestellen

i know its german... (coz im from germany ;P) but at the bottom.. there's a chart, which shows the different rates of aborbtion...

thx guys for the hopefully upcomin explanation :D ...and sry for my bad english~~

mezed

Building a post production audio studio? Need advice.

asterix2k10 — Fri, 03 May 2013 07:44:26 GMT

My friend and I are looking to build a 5.1 post audio studio for mixing, sound design, etc. with a booth for VO/ADR/Foley. We may have an available space and so we have put together a diagram showing the room and our general plan thus far. (see below)

I have some questions. Are these dimensions usable? How should the room be built to sound good and avoid standing waves? Is it necessary to build angular walls, etc. or is it ok to just use sound treatment like bass traps and foam? There may be some low end rumble from outside traffic. Do I need to build a false floor, double walls? For the recording booth this might be necessary. Are windows usually omitted from sound studios? What kind of budget would I need (roughly) to build the room plus all the gear/software for a pro setup? Is my VO booth a good size and shape? Any books I should read?

Here's the diagram pics:

Studio - a set on Flickr

Thanks!

Studio and/or Performance Space - CR Size (and other questions)?

12ax7 — Fri, 03 May 2013 03:22:51 GMT

I have struck a deal with a fellow who has bought a building to use as a performance AND recording space, which will have a dedicated Control Room.

I'm moving my gear into the control room, and he's buying all the other gear for the live sound and the stuff it takes to interface with my stuff.

He has re-roofed the building and repaired the exterior, and is now working on the interior. (Only the outside walls are built as of now, but we're getting close to building the walls for the CR.)

My main question (at this point) is how much space should we "eat up" with the CR?

I want the CR to be as large as it takes to avoid problems, but of course we don't want to waste space either.

...And at this point, we're pretty much free to choose the dimensions and shape of the CR, so what do you guys think about this issue?

...Also, should we use ALL the overhead space we can, or maybe use some sort of false ceiling?

Room dimensions of the raw space are kinda hard to get a grip on, because it is a VERY old building (with much settling), built on a hill with a raked floor that rises by at least a couple of feet from one end of the building to the other, and so things are not really very consistent in height over the whole space.

...However, the inside space measures about 95' in length and 50' in width. The side walls are about 8' on the high end of the space, and about 12' on the low end.

As you can see, the ceiling is open (and will remain so, at least in the big room), and measures between 14' and 18' at the center ridge (depending on where you measure it).

Here are some pictures (click on 'em to enlarge):

Attachment 343177
Looking toward where the stage will be.

Attachment 343179
The ceiling.

Attachment 343180
The other end (where I want the Control Room to be).

Please ask any questions you wish, as I have tried not to make this OP any longer than it has to be.

I have other pictures if you want them.

(Thanks for looking.)

Attached Thumbnails

Help with treating my room

toasterjoey6 — Thu, 02 May 2013 19:33:09 GMT

Hey,

I'm posting a picture of my bedroom studio so someone experienced can give me a proper verdict of my room's situation, and how I can improve it for recording and mixing.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../photo%201.JPG

The problem is, it's a small enough square room, with one side mostly covered in sliding glass mirrors, as shown in the picture. I'm taking the picture from my bed in the corner across from the lava lamp.

I know already that the room resonates at about 125hz, and obviously there's some slapback from the mirrors. Would hanging a layer of some sort of carpet down over the mirrors help at all or will I need to go with proper acoustic treatment to get any worthwhile results?

Thanks in advance,

Joe

My DIY Studio Desk Build!

poopynuggeteer — Thu, 02 May 2013 16:19:52 GMT

First I'd like to say that if it wasn't for all the studio desk build threads on here I would not have been able to do this. I spent a month just searching and planning before I started building and it worked out great. So thank you!

There are more detailed pictures of the build here on my website
My DIY Studio Desk Build | Jack Daniels Recordings

I don't have any plans for this desk but if you have any questions I'd be happy to try and answer them!

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Determine The Place For drilling holes

LFO8 — Thu, 02 May 2013 14:33:23 GMT

Here's something that I have had a very hard time with at the time:

Locating and marking the drillholes on the ceiling for placement of the hooks that my ceiling clouds can hang from.

I know where the clouds need to be ideally and I need them as centered as teh mixing location in relation to the monitors.

But measuring this out from wall to spot on the ceiling is a very hard thing to do solo. And my room isn't even that big.

How did you guys do it exactly? Any handy tips to make it as accurate and painless as possible?

All tips welcomed and appreciated.

garage to studio floor - interlocking gym mats

John N — Thu, 02 May 2013 11:57:25 GMT

I'm converting a detached one car garage into a personal studio. It will have very moderate traffic with occasional outside clients - mostly used by my wife and myself.

For budgetary as well as ease of installation I am considering using good quality interlocking 3/8" or 1/2" gym mats (EVA foam). The kind I am thinking of using claims to be able to withstand trade show traffic, high heels, etc. Just wondering if anyone has tried these?

There's also all manner of 'coin top' and 'diamond grid' garage floor tiles but these are more expensive and made to hold up to parking on top of.

My garage floor is poured concrete with a lot of pock marks. I know I could put sleepers on it and cover with plywood, but for around the same cost and much less work, I could just lay these out and get some insulation and moisture barrier in the deal, not to mention a softer feel underfoot. Add a couple of area rugs...

cheers
jn

QRD Diffuser for drums - raising design freq and HF cut-off ... ?

666666 — Thu, 02 May 2013 08:47:10 GMT

Been working with QRDude, trying to dial in a QRD diffuser for a very small drum recording room.

I have not officially "measured" the room but have been tuning it by ear, based on assorted recordings / mixes.

For drums, in this room, I had found myself pulling lots of 150 - 400Hz in mixes (no surprise), and I have now added traps appropriately for this and it's helped.

But I also often find the need (depending on the mix) to boost some degree of upper end on the drums, such as 8k - 10kHz. I was now hoping to build a QRD diffuser for the "far" wall to help send some of these frequencies back, diffused, as opposed to completely absorbing it all.

So far a QRD design that seems to work well logistically for this room is the following:

Overall size of diffuser, approximately 4' (120cm) wide by 3' (90cm) tall. This is the max amount of free wall space I have for this and is the farthest wall from the drums, about 6' (180cm) away. The wall is only about 11' (335cm) wide and less than 8' (240cm) tall, and I have over 2' of trapping in all corners, sides, top and bottom... plus there are some other obstacles on the wall. But a 4' wide by 3' tall QRD will fit just right in roughly the dead center of this wall.

N37
Well widths 1" (25mm)
Depth 6" (15cm)
Fin thickness 0.25" (7mm)
Period width 45" (115cm)
Minimum distance of seating position: 3' (90cm)

The design freq is 1103Hz, true diffusion occurs at points between 1103 and up to 6618Hz and the HF cut-off is 6880Hz

My concern is that this design is not diffusing in a high enough freq range. It would seem that it might be more helpful if I could have diffusion up to at least 8k - 10k or so... based on how the recorded drums seem to behave in mixes. Or might I be off base here?

After playing with QRDude for quite a while, I can't seem to design a diffuser that will offer true diffusion as well as a HF cut-off much higher than the diffuser design mentioned above (roughly 6800Hz max). Of course making the well widths more narrow (less than 1") does bring the freq zone up higher, but doing so is not recommended due to "viscous losses" (says QRDude / Cox and Antonio).

If the diffuser stops diffusing at say 6.8k, then I suppose it will simply "reflect" above that point. Thus it will still send 8k+ energy back towards the source, but not diffuse it. Then I have to wonder if this is a good thing or bad thing. Again, this wall is 6' away from drums and microphones, wonder if this is too close to have direct reflected hi-freqs happening.

By the way, I do intend on making the fins and well bottoms very thin (about 0.25" in thickness) and filling the backside of the diffuser with 703 with the intent of diffusing / reflecting above say 500Hz, and absorbing below that. Seems that in small rooms you can never have enough absorption in the below 500Hz range.

Regardless of my understandings here, in general, do you feel that my N37 design as listed above would be good for a small room where a drum kit to be recorded sits about 6' away? If not, how might this diffuser design be improved? Anything important that I'm overlooking here?

Thank you.

The time has come, check it out (could use some help!)

BeatsByJP — Thu, 02 May 2013 08:19:46 GMT

Hey guys!

First off, I'm so stoked to finally participate in this place. I have been a lurker for years just browsing from time time (gear threads etc) but today is different! I'm excited to say, the day has come that I need to upgrade and dedicate a space for my music/studio. This studio I plan to use for mixing & vocal work mainly however I plan to make have enough open floor space in the mixing room to serve as a dual purpose for micing and tracking a drumkit, rhodes etc...

The space i've been given to work with is 24ft long by 10ft wide. I wish I had something bigger to work with(really wider is all!) however, since this space has been provided to me without charge I have to make the best of what's been given, and I'm sure whatever I'm able to build will be better than my living room setup.

Here are my initial draft's of the room I came up with just tinkering around. I apologize if this is a horrible design as I don't really have much background in building studios(hence why I've come to you!). Any tips & pointers would be much appreciated!

6x4ft Mixing Desk & Monitor Setup (note: each graph sq. = 1ft):

Acoustic Treatment, Diffuser & Vocal Booth Positioning (note: each graph sq. = 1ft):

Thanks,
JP

New Studio Design Help!!

Jimbguitar — Thu, 02 May 2013 04:49:41 GMT

hi all! my name is Jim, I would like to thank all the moderators, posters and contributors for this great site! Between reading some of Ron's book and researching on here I believe I'm getting close to getting a game plan for my studio build, but first some background…

My wife and I (kids too) were lucky enough to buy our dream home last June here in Florida. apart from all the other things we love about the house, it came with an unfinished 850 ft.² building at the rear of the property with a gravel driveway. we are out in the country away from any trains, but we are 1 mile away from a busy interstate highway that I can hear from my porch and inside the building, somewhat (along with the crickets) which will house the studio.
here are the dimensions:
Studio size
Ceilings 10’10’’
Sides 28’4’’
Front to back 29’5’’
[attachment=0]garage 4.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=1]garage 3.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=2]garage 2.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=3]garage 1.jpg[/attachment]

we are on an acre and a quarter lot with an empty lot behind us. I currently have my studio in the front home with a drum set, three panel vocal booth with reflexion filter using ProTools 10 with the TC konnekt 48 and some decent out board preamps, Mic's etc.,

in the new studio I will be tracking loud live drums, recording and reamping loud guitar amps, recording live rock bands, having loud band practices , mixing with mackie monitors hr624 and a sub... things will be busy back there... I numbered the questions below, these are the things I can't seem to find out with my research..

when looking at the picture named garage 1 there is a door in the corner to the right which is set about 2 feet back from the front where the white garage doors are. looking at the picture named garage 3 you can see the other door at the back of the building which is also pictured in garage 4 from the outside. I have the sprinkler system equipment to the right of that door and in considering putting the machine room for storage in that corner. with all the commercial lawn cutting that goes on in this neighborhood and nearby interstate I am wondering whether to go for the double stud wall room within a room concept in order to keep it quiet in there,

the other option would be to install insulation in the walls and ceilings
1. would I still need to insulate the walls and ceilings if I was building a room within a room like that??

1.5 (would be tempted to blow insulation in to seal any potential spots air and sound could leak from} and use the genie or whisper clips or whatever, tracks and drywall/green clue/drywall. thoughts??

2. If I didn't go for the double walls and used insulation, clips and drywall would I be able to put additional windowpanes (laminated) along the studs that house the current Windows?

the benefits of this would be more square footage, not sure about cost, I can help a craftsman with the buildout but would need to pay for labor as I haven't done anything along these lines before. but I would still have to do something about the front wall which has those three metal garage doors which I don't plan on taking out although I would cut the tracks out on the inside and build a stud wall (or 2) if necessary across the front. Concerned about sound leakage mostly on the front, left and back sides, the right side has a long way to go to the neighbor's property, across our property and through some natural landscaplng. was considering putting the control room in the back right corner pictured in garage 3 as I would have a separate entrance/exit in case the main room was being used for a rehearsal.

I would like to have a control room, a small vocal booth that can double as an amp isolation room and leave the rest as open as possible for full bands to play together. There are concrete floors which I plan to strip of the paint and acid etch/stain.

3. There are two windows which provide natural light, might be hard to keep if I do the double stud walls??

4. I was planning to build a wooden drum riser possibly with the rubber U-boats to decouple it from the floor (is this necessary??)

need HVAC and electric, there is a panel in there now, run from a 90 W breaker from the house panel which is 200 Amp total

5. would I need to upgrade to a 300 Amp service? We have a pool pump that runs a few hours each day and ac in the house of course which runs a lot here in Florida ; )

The budget is $10,000 to $12,000 or more if i have too....any help or suggestions are much appreciated and thanks in advance to everyone who contributes!

Attached Thumbnails

Gearslutz.com - Studio building / acoustics

How to reduce noise from the garage

Why are so many studios visually sterile?

Sheetrock Ultralight?

Non symmetrical room acoustic fix

Purchasing an Apollo 16 in conjunction with saffire 56

speakon to 1/4 ok between head/cab?

New Small Space

Any New Zealand members out there? / Sourcing Cable

ringing room

Garden shed as studio?

A Bit Of Help For a New User ?

Studio Builders / Acousticians in Netherlands

HELP! Treatment and place of equipment in this room?

Help me improve an acoustical nightmare

stC rating for wood lath and plaster sought for soundproofing

Placing a Diffuser

REW: I can't get REW to recognize my microphone input

New Studio Build - Cheshire

Avatar/Power Station Studio

Cable option use to conceal inside the wall.

Bass treatment and VPR advice

My project thus far.

Will fiberglass be harmful for my health?

“Best” Monitor-Stand. Decoupling Dynaudio-BM-15a. Vibrations and Resonance.

Ergonomics/ Cable Storage

Turn tiny closet into vocal booth? good idea?

Soundproofing with limited choice of materials

Discussion of Common DIY Rockwool Framing Methods

My room treatment plan...Good or Bad idea?

Acoustic Treatment for...Acoustic Guitar?

Interpretation help

dont hate me.. monitor positioning question

Green Glue / MLV - multiple layers of material - best plan?

Best way to "deal with" standing waves without treatment?

Room Treatment: are Super Chunks Nessiary

Yamaha hs80 How to connect them to a pc?

Flat studio desk rack furniture pieces?

How to treat my studio? help please

need help with where/how to bass trap/treat these corners by my console...

need studio built on big island! (hawaii)

Pine ceiling - smooth or rough side out?

How to acoustically treat my room - I have no idea what I'm doing

Gear > Furman > ????

Sound proof Sheet metal ducts *Help*

wall insulation - more or less glass wool

lift table/stand for keyboard

Dynaudio BM-15a Problem

Even worth treating my room?

Treatment for new room build - your thoughts please!

Most accurate meaurement

Small room acoustic treatment help

studio construction help asap!!!!!

Control room too small?

New room, any advice welcome

Building a cloud, any thoughts on this?

Help with this acoustic treatment?

Home studio Echo *READ FIRST*

POLYESTER and ideas for the studio

live room flooring

Frustrating waterfalls after massive acoustic treatment (with pics:-)

Room treatment advice 17x13

THe ROOM

Question about bedroom Studio with one brick wall

Acoustics in basement studio with low ceiling

110 hz resonance mystery

Proposed baffle widths and atypical angles - Mastering Room

Room calisthenics... Help me tighten the flabby low end!

How do I sound proof a bi level house?

Optimum Distance Btw Monitors

Seperating Wal....Kind of

Headphones or Monitors in untreated bedroom

Huge frequency response deterioration with laminate flooring

Control room advice

My monitors aren't equidistant from the sidewalls, should i move my desk?

Concrete floor confusion

Walk-In wardrobe as makeshift vocal booth?

Awful room.. Need an advice

Filling hollow floor

Upholstry grade foam

Sound proof Sheet metal ducts Help

Home studio Echo READ FIRST