Gearslutz.com - Bass traps, acoustic panels, foam etc

VPR panel construction

Johnny Dance — Sat, 18 May 2013 02:03:44 GMT

Hi all...

I have been doing a lot of reading on VPR panels, and am impressed with the results.... couple of questions

1) Does anyone have any photos of the construction process? I am still finding it hard to find any

2) What are people doing in terms of framing them

3) does anyone in HK know of any suppliers of Basotect Foam?

Any help would be great!

Is this the same as Rockwool RW3?

Dug Wolfsohn — Fri, 17 May 2013 13:48:48 GMT

Cavity Slab Insulation 10cm - Constructional Insulation - Insulation -Building Materials - Wickes

Thanks :)

Diffusion & absorption question for experts!

gnomebottom — Thu, 16 May 2013 21:33:00 GMT

Hi folks,

I'm working on my solid wood floor control room, dimensions - 15' x 9' x 7' (ceiling). The room has three alcoves, two in the front corners, and one in the rear, the other rear corner is the door. I've filled the three alcoves with rockwool, so the three corners are now massive broadband traps around 2 feet in depth. I've covered the rest of the front wall with 4" of 45kg / m3 rockwool and curtained off the length of that wall from floor to ceiling (including the two corner alcoves) for aesthetic reasons. I'm placing 4' x 2', 8" thick rockwool panels to cover side reflections, and two 4' x 2', 4" thick panels on the ceiling just forward the mix position.

The mid section of the room has some Vicoustic Wavewood panels on the side walls, and as yet nothing on the ceiling. First question is, should I place some absorption or diffusion on the ceiling around this mid section?

Second and most important question. I'm going to be doing lots of recording in my control room so I'd like the back of the room to sound great. Don't care if that's dry great, or bright great, or whatever kind of great, as long as it sounds KILLER! I'll be recording lots of Orchestral instruments, especially strings, but also percussion and other instruments. So my question is what should I do to the back of the room. My initial idea was to place two 4' x 2', 8 inch rockwool panels in the centre of the back wall, and some skyline / qrd diffusers on the ceiling and side-back walls to broaden the sound field in that recording zone. Is the 7' ceiling simply too low for diffusers? Would I be better off placing diffusion on the back wall and absorption on the ceiling?

Any ideas welcome!

IS this broadband bass trap good?

hamurabi — Mon, 13 May 2013 15:19:09 GMT

Hello guys i found in a good price a broadband bass trap called "Pro-coustix Kumi F96 Professional Bass Traps" with this profile:

"Kumi F96 Fibre glass bass traps are a professional grade acoustic bass traps that will power through bass nodes in your mixing room, home theater, studio or listening room.
Our high quality panels are made for industrial grade fiberglass with a density of 96K/m3 which is twice as dense as ordinary fibre glass found in building merchants. The high grade of fibreglass packs an extra punch into these bass traps making them effective down to frequencies once thought impossible to tame.
The bass traps are truly ground breaking and will not only introduce style and colour into your studio but will also give you the professional edge to take your audio content to a commercial level.

Unlike other substitutes these panels have resin hardened edges which drastically reduces the weight of these panels enabling you to easily mount them on your desired surface. Panels can be mounted using our flat and corner impalers or can be glued using tradefast glue also available from our store.

With a performance range right down to 65 Hz even your primary modes will not escape these bass traps other modes which give your room boom instead of bass rooms will not like the sight of these fellas.

Dimensions: Each bass trap is 3ft x 2 ft x 100mm"

Do you think this is reliable?

i have already ordered some GIK acoustics monster bass traps and now i am looking for a few panels for the side reflections.

If this doesnt look reliable i will continue shopping from GIK acousics.
It's just that i found these in a very cheap price.

Corner Trap and Diffusion questions/ideas

John Mor — Sun, 12 May 2013 19:25:57 GMT

Hi all,
this is my first ever post here and i would like to thank everyone that has shared their knowledge,you guys have helped a lot.

Reading through threads,i have some questions mostly because acoustics isn't something i've studied and English isn't my native language,so sometimes it is difficult to follow.Also,i have some ideas related to these questions and i hope they are a bit reasonable.

i haven't done any REW measurements yet,but i will,as soon as i buy a measurement mic.Here are my awful room specs:

Room dimensions: L:3.6m W:3.2m H:2.9m
Listening position at 38% of length
Focal cms 40 monitors

So,here goes:

1)Regarding corner bass trapping,should i go with superchunks with no air gap at all,or just pannels placed diagonal,leaving space?

I've read threads about both but still i am not sure.For the superchunks i was thinking of stacking triangle shaped 50kg/m3 rockwool all the way up.
(i actually have purchased that allready but i can buy something less dense if needed)

1a)Another approach i thought on the corner treatment is to put 2 smaller superchunks,one in each tri-corner and a slat type resonator inbetween (or the exact opossite).Would that be effective?

2)Could this hybrid work?a skyline diffuser combined with a helmholtz pannel resonator in the back for the back wall?

More specifically,i thought of replacing the 0's in the pattern of the diffuser with holes and build the box behind it in the right dimensions.Or will that ruin the diffuser's efficiency?Has anyone done that?Would love to see some pics. :)

I hope i'm not missing or overlooking something.
Well,that is all for now,anything else regarding the rest of the treatment is understood (at least i think so) and it will be more specific when i do my measurements.

Thanks a lot.

John.

Craigslist dealing got some generic oc 703/705, question.

jiggitysmith — Sun, 12 May 2013 02:58:42 GMT

I got these from a nice engineer guy for a nice price off craigslist who bought a truckload of the stuff at one point, said it was for building cubicles, I think. It is open/soft on one side, the other side has a vinyl covering that peels off and below that a really firm/rigid yellow piece that seems like super compressed fiberglass that helps it keep its shape.

For use for trapping/etc, I assume the vinyl isn't breathable and should probably be removed if I were to have a gap behind the trap, but what to make of the firm portion of the insulation? Is this how normal 703/705 comes? Btw, I believe he mentioned he measured it when he did his build at between 703/705 so im just guessing it's probably @ 4 pcf.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk

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Helmholtz Resonator Calculator

icor1031 — Fri, 10 May 2013 02:12:12 GMT

I was directed to this forum, from here:
Helmholtz and affect of heavy absorber - MusicPlayer Forums

In any case,

Does any one know if this calculator is correct?
Or, do you know of a calculator which is correct?

mh-audio.nl - Acoustic

Thanks!

Are these really 'corners' - GIK 244 placement question

never2old — Thu, 09 May 2013 20:27:11 GMT

The 18 x 16 foot room (9 foot ceilings, fully carpeted floors) I will be practicing drums (and guitar) has a bay window in the center of one wall.

It runs almost the whole length of the wall, but still leaves small corners on either side.

Very small corners. As you can see from the photo, the GIK 244 panels just barely fit on either side. They are 2 feet wide.

My questions for you smart guys... are these still considered true corners?

Will the low frequencies still gather in these spots? Or do the connecting angled bay walls change the whole dynamics of everything?

Would those 2 bass traps be better in another location within the room?

Notes:

- I already have a GIK 244 panel in each of the other two corners of the room across the room.

- The drum set is now (after bay window placement failed) near the center of the room, away from walls.

Thanks for any input or advice.

question for DIY bass traps

hamurabi — Wed, 08 May 2013 19:02:58 GMT

Hello guys, i want to try make a few bass traps to put behind my speakers.

1)what dimensions should they have? as big as my speakers is?

2)also, this material (i cant remember how it is called in english) is ok for a bass trap?
Acousone ULTRACOUSTIC 60mm 1200 x 600 ??????? ??????????????

3)covering it with a sound absorbing fabric is it enough for the bass trap? or i need another layer of something?

4)6cm depth is enough or should i go for 10? remember it's only for the back side of my speakers.

thank you guys

Will my DIY panels/traps be worth the time and effort?

Stump909 — Wed, 08 May 2013 18:37:55 GMT

Hey Everyone,

I'm new here, but I promise I've read up on the topic as much as I can. I know how annoying newbie posts can be sometimes. I've sought assistance in other forums, but you guys (based on my reading) seem to be the most knowledgeable.

Over the last couple of weeks, I've been experiencing an issue with my receiver's auto-calibration and center channel in general (3.0 setup). It turns out the receiver issue is something I must live with, but the center channel was improved with some slight readjustments. During the whole ordeal, I was lead in the direction of sound panels and bass traps. Despite the fact it won't do anything to resolve my receiver issue, I'm still very much interested. I initially wanted to purchase some panels, but you probably understand why I chose the DIY route.

Currently my setup is less than ideal, so I'm hoping the inclusion of panels will resolve some issues. My living room is 12x14x9 (pic attached) with my equipment unfortunately forced to the awkward wall (only cable outlet). Even with spacing issue I was able to get a good 12" of space behind my speakers, but my couch might as well be backed up against the rear wall. My goal is to resolve as many issues as I can, without confirming the insanity level my friends' believe I have reached :lol: (probably no corner bass traps shiee). With that option off the table, I was thinking four 24x48 panels with 4" of 1260 material (Maybe 1280?) spaced across the back-wall might be my best bet. I plan on giving them about an inch and a half of airspace by mounting them via french cleats.

So, as I asked in the title, will it be worth the time, money, and effort? Is there something else I can do that would be more beneficial short of turning the room into a recording studio? I really just want to clean up the overall clarity, but 100% perfect isn't required. Thanks, and I look forward to any input!

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placing panels and traps

hamurabi — Tue, 07 May 2013 22:58:06 GMT

Hello guys.
1)My sofa is right on the rear wall... I will treat the first reflections with gik 242 panels on the side walls and I want to treat the first reflections right behind my head, should they also be 242 or maybe 244 should I place there?

2)exactly behind the front speakers what kind of treatment should i place? Some kind of foam is enough?Or I need panels?
3) when I buy goo 242 panels for the first reflections on the side walls, can one panel be placed horizontal to face more than one speaker or I should buy one panel for each speaker on each side?

Thanks in advance

Help for treating my room

hamurabi — Mon, 06 May 2013 21:28:53 GMT

Hello guys. I am married ( you know what this means!) and i have made my living room a home theater.
I am uploading a design to show you how it is.

On the ceiling over the sofa there is my projector.
All the other things can be seen i guess.

I don't have good ears or knowledge about the audio section but my main problem is my bass are booming. Especially in the dialogs.
The center speaker is on the top of the av rack.
and the subwoofer next to the front left speaker.

The distance from the front speakers to the wall is about 40cm.
I Have them all pluged in the bass reflex.
I opened the bass reflec of the center speaker and the dialogs are now clearer but still boomy.

My sofa is exactly on the rear wall.

the first move i will do to make the audio and picture better is to put velvet curtains from the one side of the projector's screen to the side of the sofa and the same on the other.

next i was thinking of protable absorbing panels to the first reflections with stands so i can take them away whener i want.
Also i guess i need bass traps but i am trying to find a solution for something with some nice look for a living room.

please advice me for whatever you want.
if you need a photo let me know.
thanks in advance

The design of my room

is it possible to predict the frequency range of the bass trap i wanna build?

mr. harrison — Mon, 06 May 2013 19:39:40 GMT

i´m about to build my whole back wall with bass absorbers about 30 cm thick, filled with glas or rockwool - is it possible to predict the frquency range this will affect? my room is 3,5 m x 5,5 m and 2,5 m high.

it seems to me that the main problem is around 100 hz. the acoustics guy (proper one) suggested this as a cheap first aid solution. although he recommended another way of building it: a wooden frame filled with layers of 2 cm wood and then 6 cm footfall isolation in a 30 degree angle downwards on the back. from the bottom to the ceiling.

thing is this would cost way more and also would be way more heavy - so if i move out of the room it would probably have to stay there. way more work too ;)

setting up new room with imperfect shape

kwhubby — Sat, 04 May 2013 23:17:52 GMT

Hello,
I have been fortunate in the last couple years to have symmetrical rectangular rooms that were easy enough to decide on how to arrange my monitors and homemade panels. I'm now in a new place where the room isn't exactly symmetrical, and I'm trying to decide on how I should arrange everything.
Here is a to-scale image I drew.

I have 3 locations I think are good candidates: orange, purple and green mark.
What do you think? Any recommendations on placement? Any advise on where I should likely target my available panels, or build more? I currently have OC 703 panels I built: 4 * 4” with FRK, 3*4” no FRK, and 3 *2” no FRK, as well as 8 of the Auralex-style black-foam corner "bass traps", a bed and other available furniture.

PS. the region near the window has a ceiling that is lowered by 6" (cumbersome area to mount to), and I don't mind covering part of the window with a panel.

@ GIK monster trap users

agonist — Sat, 04 May 2013 16:37:25 GMT

i am interested in DIY'ing a couple of these (because i cant afford the real thing, plus i've enjoyed making my own treatment so far). i've read good things about the Monsters'. Is there any information about the density of the material used in these traps? the test information on their website shows that they are doing a lot more than their 244 traps on the low-end, i wouldn't mind seeing if i can make my own.

any info much appreciated. ;)

google sketchup

Ilsenhab — Fri, 03 May 2013 19:09:12 GMT

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Sound dampening for practice space

TWU_Chapel — Fri, 03 May 2013 18:27:47 GMT

Hello,

I facilitate music rehearsals for our school's chapel programs, and am researching sound dampening options for our rehearsal space (a school portable). Our music teams consist of the usual pop/rock instruments (bass, drums, electric guitar, keyboard, acoustic guitar, and vocals). Because we use acoustic drums and electric guitar, everything needs to be amplified.

GOALS:

To decrease the overall dB level within the rehearsal space as much as possible (sound bleed outside the rehearsal space is not a major concern).
To improve the overall sound clarity and balance. Right now things are just loud and muddy.

REHEARSAL SPACE DETAILS:

Location: Langley, British Columbia, Canada
Structure: School portable with corrugated metal siding on the outside and drywall on the inside. Like most portables, the floor sits about 2.5 feet off the ground.
Width: 15 feet, 5 inches
Length: 24 feet
Height: 8 feet

PROPOSED ACOUSTIC TREATMENT:
(Detailed diagram attached to this post)

3 "super chunk" corner bass traps (a 4th is impossible due to doorway obstructions).
7 2'x4' acoustic panels on the right wall.
6 2'x4' acoustic panels on the left wall.
2 2'x4' acoustic panels on the back wall.

Attachment 343287

QUESTIONS:

I know sound plays no favourites and the ceiling is just another surface, but affixing panels to the ceiling is problematic due to restrictions. Will wall panels be sufficient?
Is there a better strategy for panel placement and/or number? In the diagram, panels are mounted in a "zig-zag" pattern vertically, alternating a foot from the ceiling then a foot from the floor. Horizontally, they are spaced approx. 9" apart.
I will build the panels and traps myself. Is alternating panel depth recommended? I was going to do all the panels 4" deep for broadband bass absorption, but in reality, relatively even sound absorption across the frequency spectrum with just a bit more dampening for the bass is desirable. Would a pattern like 2'x4'x4", 2'x4'x6", 2'x4'x2", etc. better achieve this?
Finally, given the dimensions of the room, what would you recommend for speaker placement (2 speakers)?

Any assistance you can provide will be greatly appreciated! If more details are needed, just let me know and I'll do my best to supply them.

With thanks,

Jared

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Need advice on room layout and treatment

Nostrap — Fri, 03 May 2013 15:23:05 GMT

I have a pretty small room which I have to also use as a bedroom. I have attached a diagram of how I was considering laying the room out.

I am mostly looking for advice on how to place the acoustic panels. I am having trouble deciding what to do because of the giant window on the left speaker side, which I would feel weird about covering up with an acoustic panel.

I can't mount anything to my ceiling because it has asbestos :(

How does my current layout look? If I were going to add more treatment where would I start? I currently have two 4-inch bass traps and three 2-inch 2x4 acoustic panels. I don't have a huge budget but I could definitely add a couple panels if it would help.

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Entire Back Wall A Bass Trap?

Thefife — Thu, 02 May 2013 14:36:38 GMT

I am planning to expand a room in my basement to convert it to a one room studio. (The room will be approximately 15' x 28'.) I would like to make the entire back wall a giant bass trap. The purpose would e for acoustics and etter room sound and NOT soundproofing. However, I don't know quite how to go about it. I have 12" of total depth to work with. The back wall will separate the studio from a living room. So, a standard framed wall with drywall will be on the "outside" of the wall in question. However, the "inside" of the wall can be whatever will work best. I would like to keep the room as lively as possible, so something that will reflect back some mid/high frequencies would be ideal. The last requirement is I need to incorporate electrical outlets in the wall.

I don't know a lot about this concept, but I am assuming the elements I will need to consider are the following:
1. A frame. My guess is that I will really need 2 frames. One will be for the wall in the living room behind the studio, and the other frame will be for the inside back wall of the studio. The frames would likely be separated by just a few inches.
2. A Fabric Outer Covering. I would likely use Guilford of Maine, as I have GIK products that use this, and it seems high quality. If the frame were built like a standard wall frame, I could just staple the fabric to the studs. But I'm not sure how to best hide the edges.
3. Reflective Material. I have read about thin pieces of wood to reflect som mid and high frequencies back in the wall. I dont know what material is actually best for this purpose, but I would love some suggestions. I also am not sure how to attach it to the frame.
4. Insulation. I want the best absorption I can get in the space I have available. I believe that Owens Corning 705 is what I would want to use. If there is something better please let me know.
5. An Air Gap. I have read that an air gap is useful between the back of the absorptive material and the actual back wall (in this case the drywall of the living room behind the studio). However, I don't know how much value the gap adds. Assuming I have 12" to work with, should I just fill the entire space with insulation, or should I use 6" of absorption and 6" of air gap? What is the best solution for trapping low frequencies.

Once all the above elements have been sorted out, my big question is how to actually build something like I'm describing. I have seen lots of wall hanging bass traps and corner standing bass traps, but I don't know anything about a full wall bass trap. How would the fabric be attached and still have it look clean? How would electrical outlets be incorporated without causing a problem with the fabric? Does anyone have links to a similar project? I have googled, but came up with nothing.

Thanks in Advance,
Brad

My Finished Bass Traps with pics

e.mann30 — Thu, 02 May 2013 13:45:31 GMT

I made these over the weekend . I've read through multiple threads on how people made theirs and this is what I ended with. I followed the frame design from the Metu Coner Trap Metu™ CornerTrap.avi - YouTube , then I filled the inside with Fluffy R19 insulation ( not compressed ) and placed a membrane on the front. Attachment 342990

Attachment 342991

Attachment 342992

Attachment 342993

Attachment 342994

Attachment 342995

Attachment 342996

Attachment 342997

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Reflection specs of assorted materials / thicknesses?

666666 — Tue, 30 Apr 2013 16:02:56 GMT

I'm pretty sure that data / tables exist on this subject, for some reason I just can't seem to find it this morning.

I'd like to know the point, in terms of frequency, where certain materials, of certain thicknesses, stop reflecting sound waves (and the waves just pass through the material).

For instance, say a sheet of 3/8" thick furniture grade plywood: my guess is that such a material will reflect up to say maybe 1kHz or so, then all frequencies below that will pass through it. I'd like the actual specs on this... for common materials, especially plywood and similar.

A related question: can someone suggest a common, easy to obtain and easy to work with material, that will reflect only above roughly 1kHz? Preferably some type of plywood, masonite, etc (something that can be found at Home Depot, easy to cut, etc). What thickness???

I realize that some materials (like sheets of plywood) may also absorb at the low-end and also a bit at the high-end. I'm less concerned with the absorption properties at the moment.

Basically looking for an easy to work with "membrane" that will only reflect roughly 1kHz and up and allow all frequencies below to pass through.

I apologize in advance, I know this info exists here someplace, I just can't seem to find it.

Thanks. jkthtyrt

Odd Shaped Ceiling Clouds

~RW~BootyStackr — Tue, 30 Apr 2013 04:21:53 GMT

Good day slutz! howdy

A friend of mine asked me to help him build his studio. The framing was already done by the time I got there, but he did follow my suggestion of using Roxul in the walls. It's a small layout, one control room, and one vocal/drum room each 11' x 8' x 8' approximately. To throw off the appearance of a very square room, he wanted some odd shaped ceiling clouds. I simplified it a little from the original design, but we pretty much just figured it out as we went.

First step was a quick design in Adobe Illustrator. This way I can get it right visually, and measure the edges when it's looking right. In retrospect, I might use SketchUp next time.

Second, we bought the wood and the fabric. We took a sample of the wall where we installed his custom panel, and matched the colour as close as we could to the new fabric that would cover the clouds.

Third, we cut the 1x4 pine lengths to the measurements from the Illustrator mockup. We had to estimate the angles to ensure a good fit (another reason to go with sketch up I think) both on the inside piece, and the outside point so they are flush horizontally and vertically. We did one frame at a time.

Forth, we had the luxury of construction grade glue, and a brad nailer (air compressor driven mini nails). Because of that, we didn't need corner braces, the weird angles kept us from that even being an option without a few special tools. Turned out really solid with generous glue and 5 nails on each corner.

5th, I ironed the fabric, to make it as flat as possible, and we did a rough, over-sized trim of the fabric. We bought 5.5 meters thinking it was too much, and it ended up being just a little more than we needed. Good thing! kfhkh

6th, We stapled the fabric along the edge, pulling tightly along the way. The thing we learned from the girl at the fabric store, was folding the fabric over once when you staple it. The times we didn't do that, it seemed like the fabric would rip easily. I suppose the friction from both layers made it stronger. Good tip! Took a few tries to get the edges clean without an obvious fold or wrinkles along the edge. But worth the extra effort. We're the clean police! :cop:

7th, Cut the Roxul to fit. Probably the easiest step, that stuff is simply the easiest to work with. Be careful not to squish it too much, it loses sound absorption qualities.

We'll be hanging them in a few weeks, I have some cool ideas for that too! Send your thoughts, looking forward to hearing some feedback.

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2 Quick questions -- Are these foam panels good to buy? And how much should I use?

linanne1012 — Sun, 28 Apr 2013 01:53:00 GMT

I am going to buy some more foam panels to put in my new mixing room and practice room... (two seperate rooms, mixing room is going to be smaller, about 10'x10', and practice room is about 200 sq. feet)(I haven't made the rooms yet, I am moving into a new house and am going to use part of the basement and finish it into these two rooms, otherwise I'd post pics)

I'm on a budget, and I found these were cheap, but I don't want to sacrifice sound quality just to save some money. Just wondering if anyone knows if they're good enough quality, as much as or close to auralex or other more expensive brands.

sound proofing deadening, acoustic insulation foams, echo elimination, home studio soundproofing foam,

Amazon.com: 2x12x12 (12 Pack) RED/CHARCOAL Acoustic Wedge Soundproofing Studio Foam Tiles: Musical Instruments

Also, considering the room sizes and what I'll be using them for (practicing and recording) how much should I buy? How much of the room should I cover? I am also going to build in bass traps in every corner, and hang them on the ceilings.

Thank you

How do I remove my studio foam off of the wall?? (Without damaging the foam???)

linanne1012 — Sat, 27 Apr 2013 20:52:47 GMT

How do I remove my studio foam off of the wall?? (Without damaging the foam???)

I am moving, and would like to bring my studio foam to my new house and reuse what I can from it. The people that are moving into my house are going to repaint anyway, so it wont matter if the wall is a little damaged..

How should I remove my foam so that I can salvage the foam panels for reuse?? The only info I've found so far on this is that you should nail the foam in the wall instead of using the adhesive, however I've obiviously already did it with the adhesive!!

Thanks in advance!

air gaps or not in real wall absorber?

Lakeside — Fri, 26 Apr 2013 20:46:37 GMT

Hello!

I am putting together a new control room. I have gotten quite far and now its time for a portion of the rear wall. I have 12 95mm thick 560x1160mm rockwool panels that I am planing to use to cover an area of 1160mm wide and ? 2400 high. Since I have concrete walls in this apartment I am building a free standing "cage" of wood. This way I can move it out from the wall when I feel like it. In other words I will stack 4 panels in 3 layers and get a 3x95mm thick absorber that I will cover with spaced slats on the front.

My questions is:

Will I benefit if I add about 50 mm of air between the panels and thereby get a 385 mm deep absorber? It would be easier to construct if I just layered them of course. I still have the option to add space between the wall and the back of the absorber.

Thanks!

Rockwool densities

jtones — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:32:58 GMT

Just a quick question:

If you had the choice between rockwool board at 40kg/m3, 60kg/m3 or 80kg/m3 densities, which would you choose?

Thank you.

How do you see my "decay time" ?

powerestudio — Wed, 24 Apr 2013 20:12:31 GMT

I need advice from the experts.
My small room is 3.90m x 2.37 m x 2.20 m , isolated with gypsum board, traps, diffuser, and resonators.

In general my listening it´s very good but sometimes I feel some mid frecuencies bother me. Even the next day I feel my ears more sensitive to mids and highs as if fatigue.

Do you think I have too much absorption on mid zone?

Here a pic of RT. and bob golds results:

Computed Information:
Room Dimensions: Length=3.9 m, Width=2.37 m, Height=2.2 m
Room Ratio: 1 : 1.07 : 1.77
R. Walker BBC 1996:
- 1.1w / h < l / h < ((4.5w / h) - 4): Fail
- l < 3h & w < 3h: Pass
- no integer multiple within 5%: Pass
Nearest Known Ratio:
- "24) A worst case scenario calculated by RPG" 1 : 1.075 : 1.868
RT60 (IEC/AEC N 12-A standard): 185 ms
- ±50ms from 200Hz to 3.5kHz = 135 to 235ms
- ±100ms above 3.5kHz = 85 to 285ms
- <+300ms at 63hz = 485ms
- 300 RT60 (ITU/EBU Control Room Recommended): 146 ms
- ±50ms from 200Hz to 4kHz = 96 to 196ms
- <+300ms at 63hz = 446ms
- 200 Absorbtion to achieve ITU RT60: 240 sabins
Volume: 20 m^3

thanks.

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Rolled up/stacked Auralex as corner Bass Traps?

Gefell — Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:36:38 GMT

I've been given 10 free sheets of 2"x 2' x 4' Auralex wedges foam. I already have DIY 4 inch 703 fiberglass traps I built in place but am scheming how to possibly use this foam as corner bass traps.

Seems like there are 3 options:

1. Roll it up into a tube shape and place it in the corners.

2. Cut the panels sideways into different sized strips and reassemble them in a DIY LENRD type shape.

3. Keep the panels as is but stack them 3 thick with the wall side two facing each other. Then mount to a backing board and straddle the corners.

thoughts?

Help Treat NEWBIE Room...Thanks!...Pic included!

Just Started — Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:40:33 GMT

Hi everyone! I'm brand new to the forum and to the pro audio scene.
Here's a quick breakdown of what I have:
OS: PC 8gb RAM, Windows 7 Home Premium
Interface: Focusrite Scarlett USB 2i2 w/ built-in preamps
DAW: For now is the Ableton Live LITE (I think it is 8 or 9) that came with the Focusrite (Can upgrade to something better on the cheaper end of DAWs?)
Monitors: Yamaha HS80M
Headphones: ATH M50
Microphones: Shure SM7B (LDD) and AT4040 (LDC)
Genre: Hip Hop, R&B, Reggae/Island music, Rap
Goal: Making my own studio to make my own music, trying to be a succesful musician, but still would be a fun hobby.

I have done some research, but I still am not sure how I should set up my room.
I'm a poor guy (just about broke now, hah!), so I can't afford much, so I have to work with what I got/is cheap.
I have the basic know-how on where to place most absorbers, but I just don't know where it would be best to place my monitor speakers.

I attached a bad layout of my room. Would appreciate any advice and would really appreciate it, if you could "finish" the drawing with placed objects, bass traps, acoustic panels.

I will be using one of the dressers as my workstation table (will get a actual comp desk sometime). Also the other in the near future (maybe in a week) to place a MIDI keyboard and pad controller on it, so it would be nice if the other dresser could be near the other to create one tight work zone using the same monitors (or could use headphones?).

Wall is laminate flooring, but I have the carpeting still (no padding, but is shaggy thick) from when I removed it (long ago), so I can lay some down at the work area if it helps with floor reflections.
The window is rather small, only 4 ft wide and 2 ft tall.

MATERIALS: I decided to use UltraTouch denim insulation (I am sure this is what I want to use).
I am using this stuff in 6 inches thick for bass traps. (No reflective backing or face, but can add if needed)
For High-Mid freq. absorbers I am using 4 inch thick of this stuff.
For the ceiling I might just use thick movers blankets and possibly behind vocalist depending on budget.
What dimensions should the panels be? (is 16 inches wide enough? or just 24?)
My bass traps that I plan on making will be 45* stradling the corners.

As I said, I am familiar with first reflection points and height and distance set-ups. But I learned from symmetrical rooms, and my room is not too symmetrical.
I mainly just am unsure of where to place the monitor speakers aswell as bass traps.
Remember I need access to my doors haha, which is why I am unsure of bass traps near those areas. Are ceiling corner traps do-able? Or just stradle a panel on the back of the door or one wall?

Honestly, I was wanting to keep my whole work area in one side of the room (from the 5'-4" wall to the back wall). I was thinking of just paneling off that side of the room. So the work desk/monitors at the 5'-4" wall or on the other end against the 12'-8" wall, but still in the rectangle section from the 5'-4" wall (hope it's not confusing.)
Would this really be that bad having my work area crammed into the corner (still even space from monitors to the walls) compared to monitors in the center of the room
Now if I basically made a absorber wall from the 5'-4" half of the room, would I need the bass trap in the corner of the work area, or still of the whole actual room?

Again, just need to know where I should place my monitor speakers and bass traps for the main part.
What I am trying to accomplish is to set-up my room in the best way to get the flattest sound from my monitor speakers.
I know center is best, and I might try it, but I don't know how to treat the "un-even/dipped" wall, (won't you get a un-even "soundstage"? is that the right term or is it imaging?), also don't know if it is actually not a problem placing the rest of my stuff comfortably if the work desk is centered.

Thanks in advance for the help!

WOOPS! Almost forgot...I need help where to place my vocal booth! Would be nice if I could benefit/use the existing treatment that is also treating the acoustics from the monitors aswell.

Hope it's not too much for you guys to take in at once. :lol:

I can play around moving the set-up around, but would be nice if I could get it great in one shot.

So with all that gibberish said, just finish the drawing, placing where things should go or try to say/describe where.
Thanks, again.

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corner bass trap fiberglass density

salomonander — Mon, 22 Apr 2013 23:21:55 GMT

sorry for opening up another thread...
if i have 25cm deep and 60cm wide panels that i want to straddle across corners for bass trapping (with about 50cm air gap to the center of the corner) what would be a good density for my fiberglass? the panels have open backs.
from what i have read low density fluffy fiberglass will work best. is this correct?
what would be a good density roughly?

My N29 2D QRD :)

Vank — Mon, 22 Apr 2013 12:34:02 GMT

It was one hell of a lot of work but here's the result of 2 weeks of sawing, sanding, planing, glueing and such!

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Controlling reverberation in a small hall with a glazed wall.

john_s — Sun, 21 Apr 2013 20:59:39 GMT

I've been looking at the design of the Robert Blackwood Hall. It seems to me that the designer has controlled reverberation partly by angling the segmented south wall away from the stage. Is my understanding correct? (see:*http://www.monash.edu/mapa/rbhfoorplan.pdf
*)*
We're looking at constructing a small hall design to be used mainly for public speaking purposes and therefore want reverberation to be low. We also want extensive glazing down one side wall.*
Does anyone know whether we could successfully control the reflection of sound off the glazed wall by inclining it towards the ceiling (approx height 3 metres) so that most of the sound reflecting off the glass would be absorbed by the acoustic ceiling tiles?*
Note that acoustic drapes are not a solution. We want the audience to be able to see out through the wall.*

my broadband absorbers take out too much mids and highs

salomonander — Sun, 21 Apr 2013 17:21:52 GMT

hey

i have a small live room. see:
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/studi...p-me-room.html

i feel the absorbers take out too much highs and mids. i now placed the absorbers across the corners and that did help regarding the low end. i also drilled holes in the frames and opened their back. i think this helped as well.

but i feel that the absorbers still take out too much highs end mids. when i talk directly into them it sounds as if id talk into a pillow. i do have some professional bass traps by gik that dont do that.

the panels are 24cm thick filled with rockwool. the frames have open backs and lots of holes on the sides. so everything is really exposed. is there anything i can do to get back some life? i heared of people placing a small layer of plastic before the rockwool are even placing slats on the frame.

please help :-)

Poplin Polyester Fabric?

Dizzy — Sun, 21 Apr 2013 01:44:17 GMT

As some of you probably know I've been in an out of Joann's, and today decided to try out a bunch of different random fabric outlets. What did I come up with? Poplin polyester, it seems like this would work perfectly and is ridiculously cheap @ $2/yard/60" wide. Just wanted to see if anybody else around here has used this stuff for their panels, or get an opinion on it before I committed to it tomorrow. The other option there was broadcloth, which I believe the lady said was a mixture of cotton an polyester - it was a bit thinner I believe, almost like a super super cheap pillow casing, not sure how it would look wrapped on the panels but looks isn't priority right now I guess. The poplin would look pretty solid, though.

Bass trap behind flat screen tv

Photony — Sat, 20 Apr 2013 22:42:24 GMT

Hi,
In some instructions a low band bass trap is inserted behind the listening position. See e.g.: http://gikacoustics.co.uk/wp-content...-Kit-1-sq1.jpg

Now, for a reason, that some of you might imagine, I can't hang a huge bass trap behind the living room couch. I was thinking if I could instead place the bass trap behind my flat screen tv, which is close to the front wall of the room. There it would be nicely out of sight. My room dimensions are about 5x4 meters, so the dimensions are close to the wave length of 80Hz sound.

My question is if there would be a notable benefit in placing a bass trap on the front wall of the listening room? If there is, does the flat screen tv in front of the trap reduce its functionality significantly? I remind that my hope is to enchange the quality of the very low frequencies in my room.

-Tony

Which rockwool panels to buy? Density vs Thickness

aristidesfl — Sat, 20 Apr 2013 14:42:29 GMT

I've got 2 panels of rockwool available with different densities and thickness:
- LR S/PAP PN40 - 1350X600X40mm @ 3,75€
- LR S/PAP PN70 - 1350X600X30mm @ 4,75€

Which one is more cost effective, and which thickness should I make the traps for best bang/buck?

Thank you

New Studio Need Advice for Bass Traps

mistermike — Fri, 19 Apr 2013 01:33:47 GMT

Hey guys! I've recently upgraded to a pair of Event 2030's and a Krk 10inch sub. I make a lot of music that demands some serious low end and even though the Event's produce really clean low end, I still need to feel that deep sub range. I've done tons of research all over this forum and quickly realize that I have lots to learn in the world of proper acoustic panelling, etc.

My room is
22'x13' but then after six feet from the front wall the room widens to 15'. I have the equilateral triangle going on at 5' from speaker to speaker and mixing position. The monitors are about 2 feet from front wall and mixing position about 6 feet. The sub is setup in the corner of the front wall port out towards back wall. This is obviously giving me, what feels/sounds like, the cleanest and loudest low end. However I definitely need some bass traps. My questions are: Is this speaker/sub placement ok with the measurements of my room? If I make bass traps for the front corners, should I move the sub in front of the trap or can I put the trap on top leaving the sub tucked in the corner? With the pictures below, how big do you think I should go?

For now I just have a bunch of 2 inch thick foam hung around to help dampen reflection points. I know theres a lot of you on here with tons more experience than myself in this field. Would love to get some conversation going as well as any input/advice.

Thanks! kfhkh

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