why would a preset dump be random? surely there would be some type of schema to their format right?
dump preset batch #1 to tape or audio file, change your presets on the juno and save them to the juno which we can call preset batch #2, if we then load the dump from preset #1 back to the juno the #2 is wiped out and the first batch restored. this clearly shows, at least to my brain, that there is nothing random at all with a preset dump, if it were random you would not be able to dump and load the sounds back and forth at all
now figuring out their format and schema and all else related to decoding that dump along with converting that data to a chart to display parameter values readable by a human might be quite a tedious task, i would not be up for that challenge
it is possible, that i have completely misunderstood the initial question though
I'm thinking if you save the same patch to all 56 presets a Sysex reader should show the same text repeating 56 times. A clue for how to translate into patch sheets.
Alesis Freeloader doesn't seem to work on Win7. Was it discontinued?
The patch dump starts with a pilot tone, but after that I'm not sure what happens. There might be a marker block just before every patch starts but the dumbest (and thus cheapest and most surefire) way possible is to dump all parameters sequentially so that after a certain number of parameters (arpeggio on/off and rate are not stored) a new patch -must- start. Ideally, the parameter count is say, 8 possible values per slider and that times a number that's in the series of the powers of two. 32 would be enough. If there are only say, 22, then the last block could be padding (e.g. only there for the microprocessor to skip).
However, the hardest part is to figure out what encoding they used. Hard in "this requires signal analysis and knowledge of how these patterns are stored". Chances are that it's not really reusable either because a JX3P and a TX81Z also store to tape but have a completely different order of storing parameters, and some kind of compression might be used so that you only need like, 1 8-bit value to denote both LFO auto/man, VCF env up/down and VCA env/gate.
So, anyone figuring this out needs a Juno-60 themselves anyway, and a background in DSP as well as programming because you want to analyze the actual output wave file, and a willingness to spend a few nights on figuring out the algorithm.
Trust me, it's cheaper and faster to borrow someone's Juno or find someone, ask them if they can load your patch dump, then figure the setting of each patch out by tweaking the slider a little bit until you're back at the original value.
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However, the hardest part is to figure out what encoding they used. Hard in "this requires signal analysis and knowledge of how these patterns are stored". Chances are that it's not really reusable either because a JX3P and a TX81Z also store to tape but have a completely different order of storing parameters, and some kind of compression might be used so that you only need like, 1 8-bit value to denote both LFO auto/man, VCF env up/down and VCA env/gate.
So, anyone figuring this out needs a Juno-60 themselves anyway, and a background in DSP as well as programming because you want to analyze the actual output wave file, and a willingness to spend a few nights on figuring out the algorithm.
No way should it be that hard. Once you get the audiofile into text, all you need to do is find out which line relates to which Juno parameter. That can be done by programming test patches and saving them in a dump. When you can recreate the 1st patch from the text, you're basically 95% done.
No way should it be that hard. Once you get the audiofile into text, all you need to do is find out which line relates to which Juno parameter. That can be done by programming test patches and saving them in a dump. When you can recreate the 1st patch from the text, you're basically 95% done.
Your assuming every parameter value is 8 bit.
Some values are 1 bit, some are 7 bit, some are 2 bit.
So looking at the text is not going to help.
Looking at the binary may... But you'll be doing a lot of looking.
Honestly you should be able to make any sound you want on a Juno is 15 seconds - it's a really simple synth... Play with the sliders that's what they are for...
Plan to buy a Juno 60, anything I should pay attention for?
Title nearly said it all, I'm going to watch out for a local (Berlin) Juno 60 in the next weeks.
Are there any things I should ask for / check?
Which popular mods / extensions exist, and which of them are absolutely safe so I can decide for a model with it?
I don't need a modification, my priority is a good condition of the synth, but if I get something with midi (which I'd consider a big bonus), I'd like to be sure it's all safely done.
Also, since it's gonna be my first vintage piece, should I treat a Juno 60 more carefully than say, a Blofeld Keyboard or a NordLead?
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Check if the keys don't double-trigger. All the lights should work. Faders are (last time I checked) hard to get, so test them over their full range. Could be that the volume pot crackles a bit when changing the volume, that's not that much of a deal breaker. I'm sure other people can come up with more.
I've got an Engineers@Work MIDI modification; the DCB connector is replaced with MIDI-I/O, giving me basic note on/off. However, Minerva's supposed to be a lot better.
I don't think there are any widespread problems with the Juno-60. About the only thing I've heard of is excessive noise from the chorus on some units.
When I bought my Juno-60, both the seller and I thought it had a defect. There was distortion on some of the patches no matter how low I turned down the main volume. It turned out to be a result of the VCA slider being too high on the distorting patches. Once they were reprogrammed with lower VCA levels, the distortion went away.
Took a chance on a Juno 6 on an out-of-town deal and had the guy ship it to me. When it got here it looked like it had come back from the Mint 400 motorcycle race - meaning it was a little..ahem..dusty.
So after cleaning it - wiping down with pledge wipes and opening it up and blowing out the dust in the circuit board, I fired it up and am having these issues:
- a lot of the lower register keys are double triggering
- most sliders are cutting out at their maximum value towards the top
- some of the lights on the buttons stay lit even when disenganged.
- some sliders have scratchiness
- the felt that protects the switches from dust has is brittle and cracked
I'm a little reluctant to go crazy with the Deoxit on the sliders, so just wondering what any of you synth geeks might recommend I do to alleviate any of this - as usual, any help is greatly appreciated!
I've also includes some pics of the outside post cleaning - At least the exterior now looks nice!
Check your wallet to make sure you can afford the price these things go for now.
Yeah i don't find it all that useful of a machine for the price. I got one for under $300 a while back.... I wouldn't pay $800 though (unless you really want those quirky Passion Pit electro vibes). The noisy chorus is my favorite thing about it honestly--Sounds 1000% cheap analogue.
Looks very dusty. There is a guy here called "dougt" who was lots of parts for all types of synths.
Seems to me you need new bushings. Get the dust off the inside and out.
Looks like it could be quite a job.
Is the double triggering the only malfunction?
It has nothing to do with the vcf/vca chips. Only the chorus is crackling and when you turn it off, the crackles stop.
I have the exact same problem and I noticed a significant improvement by calibrating the chorus bias as explained in the service manual. Now the crackles only appear when I play very large chords with both hands.
Now, my options are :
- recapping the jack board
- replacing the 1115 & 2603 transistors
- replacing the MN3009 BBD's
I think I'm gonna do the 3 of them, but I'll let you know who was guilty
I've been fixing a lot of double triggering issues on old keys lately. It's pretty easy to fix when you first get to the contacts. I'm thinking the Juno 6 have the type of contacts that has a rubber strip that presses down on the contacts on a PCB. I've used a cotton swap with a bit of denaturated alcohol on to clean those. Some synths has a thin metal leaf toughing a wire for contacts (i think this is an older type) - i've some very fine sandpaper to gently polish/clean those.