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How I built my bass traps...
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#91
11th October 2006
Old 11th October 2006
  #91
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Cojo...

i have read that the more the bass traps you put... the TIghter your freq response
will be ( more flat )

you did make just 4 traps... ? or more ?
you can try with 6 or 8

Greets
Rolo.

BTW NICEEEE SETUP mAN!!!
you rulezzzzzz
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#92
11th October 2006
Old 11th October 2006
  #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolo95 View Post
Cojo...

i have read that the more the bass traps you put... the TIghter your freq response
will be ( more flat )

you did make just 4 traps... ? or more ?
you can try with 6 or 8

Greets
Rolo.

BTW NICEEEE SETUP mAN!!!
you rulezzzzzz
Hi and thanks man!

There is so many different brands and types of mineral wool therefor I wanted to start with a few traps just to see if the mineral wool that I used would really work.

I have already done some more traps; two 4" to put on each side of the mix position and a 2" cloud. The plan is to do two more 6" for the back corners and a 2" or maby 4" for the back wall.

So when I'm done I will have six 6", three 4" and one 2". That's ten traps, hopfully it will be enough. Otherwise I'll just do some more!

/Cojo
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#93
17th October 2006
Old 17th October 2006
  #93
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Cojo, thanx for your detailed report! I'm going to build a good number of traps the same way.

Question: You did use 3 slabs. Would it make a difference if I would use 2 bigger or one big slab? Would be a little bit cheaper and faster to build.

It has been mentionted there should be holes on the top and bottom of the frame. How big should they be and where should they be placed? Should there be holes on the sides also?

What kind of fabric should be used if there are going to be many traps in a small room (to not kill the highs too much).

Thanx guys for all the information.
#94
17th October 2006
Old 17th October 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Dreq View Post
It has been mentionted there should be holes on the top and bottom of the frame. How big should they be and where should they be placed? Should there be holes on the sides also?.
It's not quite as scientific as that. The idea is to expose as much of the rockwool/fibreglass to the surroundings as possible. So you need as many big holes as you can without weakening the structure of the panel.

There was some traps pictured on GS recently which had loads of 2" holes drilled in the sides/top/bottom, or check out the realtraps ones. This should give you the general idea.

my insprirations for DIY basstrap builders
#95
17th October 2006
Old 17th October 2006
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I have no idea on this other than i know i should do it for good recordings.. does it make a difference if you have say 4 big ones in each corner as opposed to say 10 smaller onces spaced out around the room?
#96
17th October 2006
Old 17th October 2006
  #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Docmattic View Post
I have no idea on this other than i know i should do it for good recordings.. does it make a difference if you have say 4 big ones in each corner as opposed to say 10 smaller onces spaced out around the room?
It is not going to matter as far as absorption goes. The more of the over all area that you expose on the sides the more sound will get into the panel. Don't over think it.

Glenn
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Built in Slat design (Scattering/Diffusion) on all Bass Traps click here
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#97
17th October 2006
Old 17th October 2006
  #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Dreq View Post
Question: You did use 3 slabs. Would it make a difference if I would use 2 bigger or one big slab?
No. I just used three layers because they didn't have 6" panels at the store.

Quote:
It has been mentionted there should be holes on the top and bottom of the frame. How big should they be and where should they be placed? Should there be holes on the sides also?
As orange said. Make them as big you can without weaken the frame.

Quote:
What kind of fabric should be used if there are going to be many traps in a small room (to not kill the highs too much).
Don't worry to much if you are not going to cover half the room. I went with a cheap IKEA fabric that had some small stretch.

/Cojo
#98
17th October 2006
Old 17th October 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfipie View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Docmattic
I have no idea on this other than i know i should do it for good recordings.. does it make a difference if you have say 4 big ones in each corner as opposed to say 10 smaller onces spaced out around the room?
It is not going to matter as far as absorption goes. The more of the over all area that you expose on the sides the more sound will get into the panel. Don't over think it.

Glenn

Glenn, I think Docmattic might be asking about general basstrap placement rather than specifically about 'the holes" ???????

Basstrap placement is important, it's important to treat corners (as bass 'collects' round the corners and you'll get maximum absorbtion) and first reflection points from the speakers to your ears.
#99
17th October 2006
Old 17th October 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cojo View Post
Don't worry to much if you are not going to cover half the room. I went with a cheap IKEA fabric that had some small stretch.

/Cojo
I used the same fabric from IKEA


Be aware that I don't think that this fabric is flame ******ent - it might or might not be an issue for you.
#100
17th October 2006
Old 17th October 2006
  #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orange View Post
Glenn, I think Docmattic might be asking about general basstrap placement rather than specifically about 'the holes" ???????

Basstrap placement is important, it's important to treat corners (as bass 'collects' round the corners and you'll get maximum absorbtion) and first reflection points from the speakers to your ears.
boy you are totally right. I read the post super fast. Sorry about that.
#101
17th October 2006
Old 17th October 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfipie View Post
boy you are totally right. I read the post super fast. Sorry about that.
Slow down Glenn, your sounding like me!
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#102
17th October 2006
Old 17th October 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orange View Post
I used the same fabric from IKEA


Be aware that I don't think that this fabric is flame ******ent - it might or might not be an issue for you.
Small world isn't it!

Thanks for telling me. I don't know if it's fire proof or not? When I'm at the garage I'll test a bit to see what's going to happen.

/Cojo
#103
17th October 2006
Old 17th October 2006
  #103
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Thanx for your answers, guys! I assume the Ikea fabric you used is the one called "Ditte"?
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#104
17th October 2006
Old 17th October 2006
  #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Dreq View Post
Thanx for your answers, guys! I assume the Ikea fabric you used is the one called "Ditte"?
Ha, ha... Yes!
#105
18th October 2006
Old 18th October 2006
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you guys mention speakers in this? do these work effectivly in a vocal booth where just headphones are used? IM preety sure they would.
#106
18th October 2006
Old 18th October 2006
  #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orange View Post
Glenn, I think Docmattic might be asking about general basstrap placement rather than specifically about 'the holes" ???????

Basstrap placement is important, it's important to treat corners (as bass 'collects' round the corners and you'll get maximum absorbtion) and first reflection points from the speakers to your ears.
Totally agree. Just make sure that the bass traps are 4" or more thick and straddling corners. For the reflection panels you can get away with 2" panels.

Glenn
#107
18th October 2006
Old 18th October 2006
  #107
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Here is a suggestion on how to construct the frame out of wood and leave a lot of the sides, top and bottom exposed. You still have a sturdy frame for mounting. You can mount spacers on the rear to get them say 2" off of the wall.

1) cut a piece of fabric about 64" X 42"
2) lay the fabric on a flat surface
3) lay the frame face down on the cloth
4) using a staple gun, staple one of the long edges of the cloth onto the rear of the frame
5) while pulling and stretching the other long side staple it on the rear of the frame
6) then do the same for the top and bottom, you will have to fold the corners
7) lift up the frame and make sure the cloth is pulled tightly with no wrinkles
8) put the frame back on the floor face down and put the mineral wool into the frame
9) if you want to (which I do) get some 1/2" air filter material meant for paint booths from an air filter supplier (they are in every town). Put the filter material into the frame so that it will cover all exposed mineral wool. Put in thge mineral wool and then cover the rear of the mineral wool with the filter material.
10) You can stretch some material across the rear of the panel for looks if you wish to.

Note: If you want to use the best fabric available both for looks, durability, streatchability and fire rating, use Guilford of Maine F701 -2100 available in many colors.

I enclosed a pdf with a suggested method of building the frame
Attached Files
File Type: pdf bass_trap.pdf (22.2 KB, 5050 views)
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#108
18th October 2006
Old 18th October 2006
  #108
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thats motivation for me right there !!!! that room is nice!!
#109
11th December 2006
Old 11th December 2006
  #109
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hey cojo...
how is now your room...
did you have any specs or graphs ?

Greets
Rolo.
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#110
12th December 2006
Old 12th December 2006
  #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolo95 View Post
hey cojo...
how is now your room...
did you have any specs or graphs ?

Greets
Rolo.
Hi rolo.

I'm progressing slowely!

Have had a lot of other things to do and I havn't yet done all traps. In total I have seven traps now of different thickness. Regarding th egraphs I have not been able to get reliable messurements. If I sweep a tone in EFT I don't get the same curve if I do it twice!?

Anyway it sounds much better then before and that was the main goal. Not to plot graphs!

/Cojo
#111
12th December 2006
Old 12th December 2006
  #111
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love the trap design .....
i would be careful with the facing cloth that the weave is not too tight as this will have a reflective response i have heard this in action and its not pretty .....also the fire aspect safety first... im gonna be building some too
#112
12th December 2006
Old 12th December 2006
  #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cojo View Post
Hi rolo.

I'm progressing slowely!

Have had a lot of other things to do and I havn't yet done all traps. In total I have seven traps now of different thickness. Regarding th egraphs I have not been able to get reliable messurements. If I sweep a tone in EFT I don't get the same curve if I do it twice!?

Anyway it sounds much better then before and that was the main goal. Not to plot graphs!

/Cojo
Are you moving the mic at all when you are testing? You will get different curves and the best thing to do is test about 5 to 10 times (not moving the mic) then take the adv of them. In the lab when testing products they will do 100 tests.

Glenn
#113
14th December 2006
Old 14th December 2006
  #113
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So if I've understood so far... tight weave fabric will reflect high freqs, whereas loose weave will allow high freqs to pass... and bass freqs also??

Just moved house and studio.
Need to section off kitchen from living room to make my control room.
Due 2 injury I can't build the wall I wanted, or traps for the moment.
Decided 2hang a custom made duvet (13.5 tog) as a wall betweeen the two.
It completely covers the width X height of the room (108" X 92")
I'll need to make a duvet cover 2keep the kitchen fumes from destroying it.
But what fabric would anyone recommend for the broadest absorption?
Becaue until I recover I have just 2 traps as my only acoustic treatment (which will go in front oif me in either corner, with the duvet behind me)
Any help greatly appreciated
Cojo
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#114
14th December 2006
Old 14th December 2006
  #114
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Hi.

My original answer got lost in space somewhere near iss I believe... so here is a new one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by myfipie View Post
Are you moving the mic at all when you are testing?
No, I have been very carefull not to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by myfipie View Post
You will get different curves and the best thing to do is test about 5 to 10 times (not moving the mic) then take the adv of them. In the lab when testing products they will do 100 tests.
Ok, that's explains it. Thanks!

If I get some time left in the future I'll sit down with a good bottle of the finest single malt and do on hundred tests then when the bottle is half empty I'll bring all the traps out of the room and I'll do a hundred more. By that time my bottle is probably empty and bringing back the traps will be real fun.

/Cojo
#115
14th December 2006
Old 14th December 2006
  #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bendybones View Post
So if I've understood so far... tight weave fabric will reflect high freqs, whereas loose weave will allow high freqs to pass... and bass freqs also??

Just moved house and studio.
Need to section off kitchen from living room to make my control room.
Due 2 injury I can't build the wall I wanted, or traps for the moment.
Decided 2hang a custom made duvet (13.5 tog) as a wall betweeen the two.
It completely covers the width X height of the room (108" X 92")
I'll need to make a duvet cover 2keep the kitchen fumes from destroying it.
But what fabric would anyone recommend for the broadest absorption?
Becaue until I recover I have just 2 traps as my only acoustic treatment (which will go in front oif me in either corner, with the duvet behind me)
Any help greatly appreciated
any kind of open weaved fabric should be fine. If you can blow through it then it should be ok.

Glenn
#116
14th December 2006
Old 14th December 2006
  #116
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Thanks alot Glenn
#117
16th December 2006
Old 16th December 2006
  #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjuodenas View Post
Here is a suggestion on how to construct the frame out of wood and leave a lot of the sides, top and bottom exposed. You still have a sturdy frame for mounting. You can mount spacers on the rear to get them say 2" off of the wall.

snip

I enclosed a pdf with a suggested method of building the frame

This frame would make for minimal masking of absorbent - if you get a nice fabric and your upholstery chops are up to the task I bet they come out looking sweet... down right furniture grade if you sewed the corner seams [like a slip cover]. It also would be light weight compared to some of the other designs above [they look nice put I'd hate to have to carry em up a ladder].

If you don't mind a less sharp edged panel a simple rectangular frame [like the lower section of the design above but dimensioned so its outside edges matched the size of your mineral fiber panels] will have even less masking [not that I really fear it would matter a great deal] - just stack 4" or more of mineral fiber on the fabric, cover the MF with the wood frame, and wrap the fabric around to the backside and staple.
#118
18th December 2006
Old 18th December 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cojo View Post
Hi.


If I get some time left in the future I'll sit down with a good bottle of the finest single malt and do on hundred tests then when the bottle is half empty I'll bring all the traps out of the room and I'll do a hundred more. By that time my bottle is probably empty and bringing back the traps will be real fun.

/Cojo

I like the way you guys from Sweden think.

Glenn
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#119
18th December 2006
Old 18th December 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfipie View Post
I like the way you guys from Sweden think.

Glenn
You are very welcome to join me!
#120
18th December 2006
Old 18th December 2006
  #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cojo View Post
You are very welcome to join me!
Next time I am over your way I will take you up on that one!!

Glenn
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