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How I built my bass traps...
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#1141
20th April 2013
Old 20th April 2013
  #1141
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aristidesfl is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott R. Foster View Post
Yes standard wall insulation will work, but you have to get it pretty thick for standard pink fluffy insulation to work well low in the band. Its not really about density but a related physical property called gas flow resistance that has a linear relationship [of a given material the higher the density, the higher the GFR].

Going from 4" to 24" thick with a higher GFR material like 705 or dense flavors of rockwool gives little reward for all the extra expense. About 4" is the "sweet spot' for efficeincy with such materials.

Using only 4" of a lower GFR material like roll insulation will not work on LF - but 24" of it will perform superlatively all the way across the band.

Mineral wool is not a health risk - but it is a nasty irritant - any breathable fabric cover will do to keep you away from it and vice versa - use the poly film if you want to reject HF as described above.

I've got 2 panels of rockwool available with different densities:
- LR S/PAP PN40 - 1350X600X40mm @ 3,75€
- LR S/PAP PN70 - 1350X600X30mm @ 4,75€

Which one should I buy and what's the thickness which is going to be more efficient?

Thank you

Last edited by aristidesfl; 20th April 2013 at 02:48 AM.. Reason: Mistake in numbers
#1142
22nd July 2013
Old 22nd July 2013
  #1142
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DIY Corner Bass Traps

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#1143
11th August 2013
Old 11th August 2013
  #1143
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Here are two 6" bass traps I built. I designed them so that I can move them between the control room (for mixing) and the sound booth (for tracking). My booth is not totally sound proof, so I they would not do much good in the control room. My design is a 2’ X 4’ oak frame glued to peg board. The peg board gives support to the insulation while allowing some areas to allow waves to pass through, a sort of diffusor. I then wrapped the insulation with burlap and fastening it to the oak frame on the backside. I then added wood corner to allow support, allowing the sides to remain open. I attach rails on the back for mounting them on the wall. Between the wood frame and the rails I have about 2.5” between the peg board and the wall. I then attached the hanging rail along the wall. I did one in the control room and two smaller ones in the booth. I did not realize that the inside of the support wood was going to show, so I did not paint them… a job I still have to do.
Attached Thumbnails
How I built my bass traps...-1.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-2.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-3.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-4.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-5.jpg  

How I built my bass traps...-6.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-7-control-room.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-8-booth.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-9-booth.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-10-booth.jpg  

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#1144
16th August 2013
Old 16th August 2013
  #1144
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That trail was a very neat idea!
#1145
16th September 2013
Old 16th September 2013
  #1145
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Alfo is offline
Hi everyone,

Just wanted to ask a quick question.

I bought myself some rockwool (acoustisorb 3) and am about to build my panels, and was wondering what you guys thought about a possible way I had planned to do it.

I was planning to cut the rockwool to size (1.2 x 600m x 50mm) and glue them directly to masonite sheets, then put fabric over them. I would then just hang them like a picture frame to the wall.

The practicality of this is that masonite is cheap, lightweight and it saves time building frames etc.

Just wondering what the possible issues of going about this way might be.

Cheers.
#1146
17th September 2013
Old 17th September 2013
  #1146
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stevenkelby is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfo View Post

I was planning to cut the rockwool to size (1.2 x 600m x 50mm) and glue them directly to masonite sheets, then put fabric over them. I would then just hang them like a picture frame to the wall.
The main problem with that is that is won't work as effectively as it could if it had an air gap.

Your 50mm of rockwool will be much more useful if it's hung 50mm away from the wall.

You can accomplish that with small 50mm sticks in the corners, to space the panel off the wall, but then the masonite is blocking the back of the rockwool, wasting it.

It's best to expose as much surface of the rockwool as possible.
#1147
18th September 2013
Old 18th September 2013
  #1147
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make a frame so that the basstrap looks solid
it looks something like this.
also with frames like this you can easily hang those traps on the wall


Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfo View Post
Hi everyone,

Just wanted to ask a quick question.

I bought myself some rockwool (acoustisorb 3) and am about to build my panels, and was wondering what you guys thought about a possible way I had planned to do it.

I was planning to cut the rockwool to size (1.2 x 600m x 50mm) and glue them directly to masonite sheets, then put fabric over them. I would then just hang them like a picture frame to the wall.

The practicality of this is that masonite is cheap, lightweight and it saves time building frames etc.

Just wondering what the possible issues of going about this way might be.

Cheers.
Attached Thumbnails
How I built my bass traps...-.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-b.jpg  
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#1148
18th September 2013
Old 18th September 2013
  #1148
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Cheers for the assistance stevenkelby and sl4zhz.

I figured something wasn't right since no-one else had done it the way I planned.

Building frames seems like the way to go.
#1149
18th September 2013
Old 18th September 2013
  #1149
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#1150
18th September 2013
Old 18th September 2013
  #1150
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Yeah same here. I also built the frame 15cm.. so two rockwool @5cm x 2 = 10cm
there are 5cm air gap for hanging and air gap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenkelby View Post
No worries Alfo Hanging them on the wall is good, but hanging them off the wall is even better

This thread has a link to a graph showing the effect of an air gap behind a trap:

Acoustic wall panels - air gap or thicker panel?...

Steve.
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#1151
2nd October 2013
Old 2nd October 2013
  #1151
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lucid life is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by bpape View Post
That'll work.

If you want to expose a bit more to the world, try drilling some holes in the sides, top and bottom.

Bryan
What do you mean?
#1152
28th October 2013
Old 28th October 2013
  #1152
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andow is offline
My absorbers are finished!!

After two months of building on weekends, I finally have my first absorbers finished!

Front:


Back:


It was a lot more work than I expected (most of all the holes on the sides and the covering with fabric) but I think for my first panels they came out really nice!
Unfortunately I didn't make any pictures of the process, but I used 100mm Knauf TP 432 B panels and two layers of IKEA fabric (can't recall which one exactly right now).

Let me know what you think!
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#1153
28th October 2013
Old 28th October 2013
  #1153
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andow is offline
Oh, and the design is based on the panels from jaykay, who posted his pictures earlier in this thread! Thanks
#1154
31st October 2013
Old 31st October 2013
  #1154
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JxCx is offline
Loving these ideas, a lot of inspiration for my own build. Particularly liking Jason's attention to detail, nice work.

Another Jason.
#1155
31st October 2013
Old 31st October 2013
  #1155
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JxCx is offline
...
#1156
7th January 2014
Old 7th January 2014
  #1156
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jeid is offline
Hello, wonder if someone can help. I'm going to be building corner traps/superchunks this week. I've done a little bit of reading and I'm needing a wee bit of advice.

I want to chunk 2 corners in my room. It's not a very wide room 242cm(around 8ft wide) by 333cm(around 11ft) long. I plan to cut the slabs I have into 8 chunks which would make them 60cm on the longest face and 42cm on the two shorter sides(2ft by 1.4ft) Is this going to be too small or should I be ok?

My only other option would be to make traps to straddle the corners, which wouldn't be a huge problem I guess. Any info would be great. Thanks
#1157
11th January 2014
Old 11th January 2014
  #1157
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Photony is offline
Hi,
A couple of pictures of my new bass trap. As the latter picture shows there is still some finishing left to do.





The trap is 140cm wide, 50cm in heigh and some 40cm in depth at the thickest point.


This trap is used behind tv and the idea is that it absorbs the low freq sound wave that the speakers emit omnidirectionally. In practice using the trap preliminary measurements shows improvements in the 100-200hz or so range. Listening music also confirms a nice improvement in bass reproduction. Me likey =)


-Tony
#1158
12th January 2014
Old 12th January 2014
  #1158
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emearg_s is offline
LOOKs like bath tub LOL But if works I say yeah !!!!
#1159
19th January 2014
Old 19th January 2014
  #1159
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Photony is offline
Emearg, yes it is "tad" big =), but I think that once it is behind the tv it actually is quite unnoticeable and nice looking. I'll take a picture of how it looks there sometime and post it here.

I'm next considering to make some kind of curved corner bass trap, though my vision of that isn't perfectly clear yet. It's going to big, that I know =)

-Tony
#1160
19th January 2014
Old 19th January 2014
  #1160
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emearg_s is offline
Is there resin for the curved ends as they seam lot work and I can't work out if they would make any acoustic difference from square box other than you be able to pivot the tv left and right ?

But As the wise man said if works and fits what you want then good on you !
#1161
19th January 2014
Old 19th January 2014
  #1161
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Photony is offline
The arches are made by gluing and bending thin slides of wood together, and yes making those took a lot of work. I needed first to make a mold for the arches.

Square box would probably work as well if not better, but I liked to put in the extra effort for the looks.


-Tony
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