How I built my bass traps...
#1141
5th January 2012
Old 5th January 2012
  #1141
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RafDigital's Avatar
 

Starting my DYI Bass traps next month

Hello everyone! Thanks to everyone for their pictures and room analysis data.

Also, I would like to thank Ethan, Glenn and the countless others who share their vast knowledge of this topic. It is truly the most awesome thing! I tip my hat to you gentlemen.

I just bought a house and I close on it next month. I picked a room that was roughly 12x10 with an 8ft ceiling. I'm buying a test mic before I do anything to properly test the room. My budget is $600 (US). I have been doing some rough sketches and what not and I have come up with some preliminary designs mainly because I want to price out the materials. I know all of that WILL change once I get in there and start measuring the freq response of the room but at least I have an Idea of the cost. I will document the whole entire process for everyone. I just wanted to get myself out here and Introduce myself. My name is Rafael from Buffalo, NY. Knowledge is power!
#1142
6th January 2012
Old 6th January 2012
  #1142
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RafDigital's Avatar
 

This is a preliminary design. I think I might have to just use 1 2x4 first reflection panel on each side instead of a 2x4 and a 1x4 in order to stay within the 38% ratio for mix position. I wont know until I get in there for sure but this is a brainstorm to start. Thickness all around is yet to be determined but I am thinking, fill in the corners with triangle pieces all the way up and then cut 705 frk panels as front panels to go in front of the filled corners ( of course with frk side facing the room all the way up the wall as well). right in the middle of the fill should be like 8 inches thick. this is for all 4 corners. I plan on using 4'' for the first reflections and the cloud ( which is not in the design but is going to go in , i wanted you to see in the room) also the left wall is missing so you can also look inside. the left wall will be identical to the right. there is a door on both left and right walls in the rear of the room with a foot of space before the back wall. I was thinking of using 4'' on the back absorbers and space them 4" of the wall. this is a huge project in progress. I just wanted to get something out there and maybe get some feedback on the design so far. As soon as I get into the new house, i will start testing the room and going from there. Thank you
Attached Thumbnails
How I built my bass traps...-room-design-2012.jpg  
#1143
6th January 2012
Old 6th January 2012
  #1143
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RafDigital's Avatar
 

different angle. thats a closet in the back
Attached Thumbnails
How I built my bass traps...-raf-room-2.jpg  
#1144
7th January 2012
Old 7th January 2012
  #1144
Gear maniac
 

Question for y'all... I see one guy painted the material that covered the panels. This doesn't impact the performance of the panels?

I was actually thinking of paying to do some canvas prints and using those on my treatment pieces. I don't want to do this if it would impact the performance... I don't want to paint the pieces themselves, would rather print.

Any input would be helpful, thank you.
#1145
7th January 2012
Old 7th January 2012
  #1145
Quote:
Originally Posted by chezballs View Post
Question for y'all... I see one guy painted the material that covered the panels. This doesn't impact the performance of the panels?
Paint will have an effect on the performance in absorbing high frequencies as it makes the material less 'breathable'. Low frequencies will still penetrate through the paint.

GIK dye the fabric rather than paint it.
#1146
7th January 2012
Old 7th January 2012
  #1146
Gear maniac
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adlen View Post
Paint will have an effect on the performance in absorbing high frequencies as it makes the material less 'breathable'. Low frequencies will still penetrate through the paint.

GIK dye the fabric rather than paint it.
Ya, got it... but any idea if the canvas printing you can have done at say Costco would do the same thing?
#1147
7th January 2012
Old 7th January 2012
  #1147
Quote:
Originally Posted by chezballs View Post
Ya, got it... but any idea if the canvas printing you can have done at say Costco would do the same thing?
Probably, I have never felt one though so I'm not certain.
#1148
10th January 2012
Old 10th January 2012
  #1148
Gear maniac
 

A question regarding most builds from the last 10 pages or so...

Most of these pictures look like you built 20cm (or 8") deep panels, or are these just 15cm (6") and 10cm (4") panels?
#1149
11th January 2012
Old 11th January 2012
  #1149
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trafficarte's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister Fox View Post
A question regarding most builds from the last 10 pages or so...

Most of these pictures look like you built 20cm (or 8") deep panels, or are these just 15cm (6") and 10cm (4") panels?
Mine are 5cm and 12cm deep, the smaller are removable from the walls so I can use them as gobos.
#1150
11th January 2012
Old 11th January 2012
  #1150
Gear maniac
 

So you put 6-8cm holes into the 12cm frame, am I getting this right?

Personally I'm interested in the sizes of the absorber from Nervrem (I do like the design) and Jason Baliban since they look more like 20cm frames (8") rather than 10cm ones (4").
#1151
12th January 2012
Old 12th January 2012
  #1151
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trafficarte's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister Fox View Post
So you put 6-8cm holes into the 12cm frame, am I getting this right?
I've done the holes to make the structure lighter and to improve the total exposed surface, but after some calculation i discovered that the latter is minimal ( less than 10%...)
I've also found some spots in the studio with impressive bumps in the bass range, one of them in a niche behind a pillar. With some experiments I've found the right quantity of absorbent material to be put there.
VoilĂ ! All major issues in the bass range almost resolved with a minimal effort.
#1152
17th January 2012
Old 17th January 2012
  #1152
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mtbdudex's Avatar
 

Been reading gearslutz for almost 1 year, kinda new at posting here.
I made these movable SSC for the rear of my Home Theatre, sharing here.
(I need access to the rear so these can't be built into place)
This was before I knew that for these big/deep ones pink fluffy was better than the OC705 I used.

removable lower corner superchunk bass trap made with 1/2-13 thd rod and OC705


Each stack is (6) sheets of 2" thick 2' x 4' OC705 panels, cut 24" x 24" x 34".
The 24 triangles stack just over 48" high, I've decided to make them removable "corner tables".

fwiw: I have some Star Trek stuff to display, the 3D chess set, some ST:TOS replica phaser and tricorder, etc, collected over 20+ years.
So, the top will be nice wood, while the bottom possible mdf or even some leftover OSB I have. The 1/2 thd rod comes in 72" size.

Now, above that display zone, which will get light w/o shadows via the sconces, will either be a 17" x 17" x 24" superchunk as shown on LH side, or a more visually pleasing triangular patch as shown on RH side, tbd.

(the boys and I watched a movie last night, sorry for the clutter)

Regarding cutting the superchunks out of the 2' x 4' sheets, I started with the big bread knife, did 4, then tried the electric turkey knife.
My experience, the manual knife was MUCH easier to get dead straight and perpendicular lines cut, the electric knife seemed to walk on its own slightly, giving a wavy edge, not style points.


Here you can see what I'm talking about.
The bottom 4 were cut by hand/bread knife, the next 4 by electric knife.
It's not that much more time for hand/bread knife, 1st pass with edge guide sets the line, then 4 more passes holding the knife at a low 15-20 degrees gives perfect straight and perpendicular edge.
I suppose a jig could be made to ensure the electric knife is straight and perpendicular, but this manual method worked for me easily.


in the garage, via makeshift paint/infra red warm booth I'm painting the thd rods......and the attach nuts/washers


-final cut/paint the OSB base.
I added a 1 1/4 perimeter of 3/4 OSB so the thd rod/nuts won't be resting on the floor directly. Painted green, same as walls.


-Final cut/sand/stain the birch top board


Maybe tomorrow these "Mikes Mondo Corner Bass traps" might get assembled and put into the room.
Each will weigh 50+ lbs, looking back at my original plan of 1 huge removal bass trap.....nope that's 100+ lbs of weight, glad I went "1/2 size" then an additional trap in the top corners

Good progress made today on these beasts, they are huge, big, and sturdy
(YouTube video clip will show that)

Layout the cut big triangles, cut back corner 3" x 3" 45 deg for clearance to rear thd rod


Stack 'em, trying to keep the leaning tower straight/aligned as it gets higher...


Me next to my the 4' stack, showing size of this beast.
However, mistake I made was NOT putting the rods in 1st before loading the triangles, so I had a PIA to get the rods in...lesson for #2
After fiddling here are the rods installed



I did NOT pre-cut the thd rod in the garage, had no way of knowing how much the OC705 would compress.
I actually can compress easily 1", more than 2", but the 1/2" birch ply top flexes too much at 2", I settled on 1" of compression, it felt very sturdy and solid.
Green tape for cutting spot, my wife held the rod top while I used a Dewalt 18v buzzsaw.
Load in room, check for ingress/egress of loading the trap etc.
No other issues appeared to prep for fabric covering time


Cut the mid-hi freq blocker (kraft paper here) for the front face, install and hold with simple 1 3/4" craft pins


Cut the 56" wide fabric (roll size), for this first one I cut just 3/4" extra top/bottom (to 50", compress size is 48.5 "), it worked but for the 2nd one I increased that to 1" top/bottom extra for wrapping safety.
I should say this is a GLUE-LESS/PIN-LESS build for the fabric, I just use pins for the top to start, put the top birch ply board down and compress/tighten, keeping fabric not attached, and tuck the fabric in at the bottom.


1st one "done", front face side


cont....

Backside looks good, needs covering


Now, the 2nd one went much quicker and smoother!
Make a 3 rod frame with base and top, gave 5" extra for loading.
This worked best for aligning the loose big triangles for flatness.


Kraft paper installed on 2nd bass trap:


Close-up showing 1" of extra material on the top before clamping down the birch ply.


2nd one done, and backside covered


Loaded into the HT room, RH side one is the 2nd one made, it came out a little better.


YouTube video showing how these can be moved around.
#1153
19th January 2012
Old 19th January 2012
  #1153
Gear Head
 

Ive done 6 pcs of 60cmx120cm panels out of 10cm rock wool that has density of about 100kg/m3 .

I was wondering, if i stack Rockwool Flexi Batts-bales in their wrappings to the corners of my room (floor to seiling) will they work ok as a bass trap? The density is about 31kg/m3



Flexi-Batts vuorivilla 570x1170x100 4m2/pkt - Rautakauppa Taloon.com
#1154
20th January 2012
Old 20th January 2012
  #1154
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mtbdudex's Avatar
 

Part II Upper corner superchunk bass trap using 1/2-13 thd rod.
Note: Made these 1 year ago, this was before I knew that for these big/deep ones pink fluffy was better than the material I used.
Still, this 1/2-13 thd rod method could easily work with pink fluffy.


Starting from here:


Plan out the cuts to maximize material usage....I had an image on how to do this and just sketched it out like this.
Each sheet I used as fully as possible.


Using newly made templates for the 23 1/8" x 47 1/8" sheets I have, start cutting and stacking, cut in reverse order, ie, the big one first and smallest last.
This is big template........................Smallest template showing placement


This cotton product is much harder to cut thru than OC703/705, so I bring out the turkey knife. Still cuts came out not nicely, determined my blades were dull and sharpened them, much better after sharp blades.



2 traps cut and stacked! I will use those "extra" pieces shown, part of my material usage plan.


I was not 100% satisfied with how the lower corner bass traps edges looked, so decided to tryout using drywall edging. I picked the white paper covered ones to minimize any issue with shiny reflection being seen thru the fabric. If need be, I would have painted them green, but that was not needed.


I used fishing line to secure the the bottom side and screws the top side.


1 done with material stacking, added loose pieces with sticky spray, worked great.


Putting on the Kraft paper to block mid-hi frequencies:


1st one wrapped and done!
Those drywall edges made all the difference, I'm going to add those as lesson learned to lower bass trap post. Much crisper look.




Installing into the HT room.
I used a 30+ year old hydraulic bottle jack as 3rd hand...


The upper bass traps are just sitting on (2) L brackets each, gotten from Lowes in the outside deck building area, painted them green.
By simple geometry they are trapped up there, not even attached screws to lower wood piece.
I did put 3/4" round felt on the top/ceiling piece to space it off the ceiling and ensure no vibrations.
Also on the wood edge to space it off the back/side walls, no issue with vibrations at all.




Both installed


Detail LH side....................................RH side


That completes the Rear wall broadband bass treatments.
#1155
24th January 2012
Old 24th January 2012
  #1155
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kasmira's Avatar
 

Uh, that looks freakin' AMAZING Mike! Good work!!

More importantly...how does it sound?

And if you did test the room, you should post the results up!

Again, congrats on the build. The drywall definitely helps give a sharp, great looking edge. Also love the odd shape of the ceiling/wall/wall corner traps.
#1156
27th January 2012
Old 27th January 2012
  #1156
Gear Head
 

My contribution

Sorry, not allot of detailed pics for you. I built these after lurking on these forums. Frames are 1"x8" pine, 83" tall and 23" wide, stained. 6" (2 layers) of Roxul Safe n' sound. Lots of pricey black fabric that breathes, held down by 5/8" quarter round molding.





Thanks to EVERYONE in this excellent community, I swear my mixes are slowly improving/translating better.
#1157
27th January 2012
Old 27th January 2012
  #1157
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Mike - beautiful room!

Is the kraft paper on your bass traps your "limp membrane" to reflect some highs and increase low freq absorption a little?
#1158
27th January 2012
Old 27th January 2012
  #1158
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mtbdudex's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by kasmira View Post
Uh, that looks freakin' AMAZING Mike! Good work!!

More importantly...how does it sound?

And if you did test the room, you should post the results up!

Again, congrats on the build. The drywall definitely helps give a sharp, great looking edge. Also love the odd shape of the ceiling/wall/wall corner traps.
Thx kasmira - I had to dig for some before charts, taken so many measurements over the years, start/stop, some uploaded to picasa web, some in folders......

How does it "Sound"? - subjectively night and day, truly I can feel a pressue wave come over me, when guest come over love to demo some LFE movie clips. (Kung Fu Panda Ska-doosh is favorite)
The 2nd row now has consistent seat-seat response - and room gains clearly shows, the 1st row still some nulls to work out.

The problem with taking data - or maybe just my problem, when I get data/analysis, then I know the issues in my HT. Nobody else, I mean nobody else hears them.
Everyone is overwhelmed because it is so much better than what they have in their home.
Anyway, guess OCD comes with the HT hobby.


For reference, here is the HT layout/other info:


Before, these are from Jan-2009 timeframe, 2nd row seat #6 only shown here.
There was seat-seat variation in 2nd row back in 2009.
These are from when I was trying different PEQ filters.
The purple is before any filters, the middle green is after 2 PEQ filters.




after, these are from July-2011 time frame:
These are all via the Ext In, no Audyssey EQ applied,no PEQ applied either, raw IB sub <> room response.
1st row has seat-seat variation, yet the modal ringing is decent and bass sounds very clear.




Here is 2nd row, these are the "money seats" for LFE!
Room gain shows itself clearly.




Hopefully not TMI....if so I can edit out some charts.....
For fun, heres a video clip of KFP "skadoosh" made back in 2009....be kind to me
#1159
27th January 2012
Old 27th January 2012
  #1159
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mtbdudex's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by nquit View Post
Mike - beautiful room!

Is the kraft paper on your bass traps your "limp membrane" to reflect some highs and increase low freq absorption a little?
Exactly, advice from Ethan W is thick kraft paper works fine for mid/hi freq reflection, and you should adhere it to the porus material via spray ashesive for some limp membrane effect.
Others have said use 6mil plastic, my wife has lots of the 3' wide thick kraft paper, so I used that.
#1160
5th February 2012
Old 5th February 2012
  #1160
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Shilla's Avatar
 

ok....

i am NOT really capable of making these myself; i'm sure I'd end up messing them up and wasting money!

you guys are driving me crazy with these awesome bass traps.

anyone want to build 4 for me????? just kidding .. no seriously????
#1161
7th February 2012
Old 7th February 2012
  #1161
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Metatron One's Avatar
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shilla View Post
i am NOT really capable of making these myself; i'm sure I'd end up messing them up and wasting money!
How to make rockwool acoustic panels - YouTube



Above is a two minute youtube video that will walk you through the construction of something that is basically like what you find in this thread. The extra holes in the sides of some of the models endorsed by members here represent a "next level" that you don't have to hit in order to benefit.

The standard panels will still help you out and can be made with

cheap lumber

cheap fabric

relatively cheap rockwool insulation

Staples, screws and you're done.

Very little for you to mess up.
#1162
16th February 2012
Old 16th February 2012
  #1162
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kasmira's Avatar
 

Hello slutz,

I really wanted to post a new thread because this is awesome, but I decided it'd be better to just post this in a general thread instead.

So yesterday I was at work, and had to go above some of the offices (some of our rooms are built into our warehouse, so we store stuff above the rooms) to put some boxes up there. While I was up there, I found a goldmine. An almost full 100' x 47" roll of Johns Manville Linacoustic RC, as well as a 4' x 8' sheet of CertainTeed rigid fiberglass. As we are renting the place, we obviously didn't leave it up there, so my boss let me take it home. In the process of cutting it up now.

Unfortunately, both are faced and are only 1" thick, so I'll have to spend some time ripping off the facing. But, looks like my panels will be finished by this weekend! I'll be quadrupling the JM up to make 4" thick panels. It doesn't look like much of it at all was used, so I should be able to build around 10 panels with the insulation. **** yeah, life is good.
#1163
18th February 2012
Old 18th February 2012
  #1163
Lives for gear
 

Guys, one noob question. I want to build bass traps, but I wanted to know, if I put fiberglass or rockwool in a thin plastic bag and than some fabric around to make it look nicer, will this work regarding absorbing lower freq's? I asked that because everywhere I see and hear that fiberglass is not good for health and I plan to spend a lot of time in that room, so....
#1164
18th February 2012
Old 18th February 2012
  #1164
Gear interested
 

Bass traps out of clothes?

Hi there and thumbs up for the great contructions!

I am looking for alternatives to rockwool/fiberglass and came up with the acoustical cotton solution while surfing. Then I thought, would it be possible to construct a 4'' width frame and fill it in will unwated clothes made of cotton/various fabrics etc?!

Would that work? About how many kgs would a 4'x2'x4'' trap need to weight?

Thanks
Costas
#1165
19th February 2012
Old 19th February 2012
  #1165
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#1166
24th February 2012
Old 24th February 2012
  #1166
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Hi,


I have a question regarding to the normal panels. The normal measurements of a panel is about 47 to 21 inch, is this the standard? Will a smaller panel placed on the reflecting-point work or is it in the measurement?

Thanks!
#1167
26th February 2012
Old 26th February 2012
  #1167
Gear interested
 

Quote:
I have a question regarding to the normal panels. The normal measurements of a panel is about 47 to 21 inch, is this the standard? Will a smaller panel placed on the reflecting-point work or is it in the measurement?

Thanks!
Please stop sending me inbox-messages. My account can't handle the amount of reactions that you all provided me with. Pffffff you are so helpfull, slutz!
#1168
26th February 2012
Old 26th February 2012
  #1168
Gear maniac
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by rowlow View Post
Please stop sending me inbox-messages. My account can't handle the amount of reactions that you all provided me with. Pffffff you are so helpfull, slutz!


there is no standard. so smaller or bigger could be fine either way.
I guess most people stick to the size of the rockwool.

The biggest panels in my studio are 1.40 x 1.00 x 0.17 (in meters)
The smallest 0.85 x 0.25 x 0.08.

not sure if this helps.... but as anything else in audio, there is no standard.

cheers,
Mark
#1169
26th February 2012
Old 26th February 2012
  #1169
Gear interested
 

Dankje!
#1170
3rd March 2012
Old 3rd March 2012
  #1170
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mtbdudex's Avatar
 

Use ETC as a tool for size and placement of your RFZ panels. Threads here, search.
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