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How I built my bass traps...
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#1141
20th April 2013
Old 20th April 2013
  #1141
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aristidesfl is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott R. Foster View Post
Yes standard wall insulation will work, but you have to get it pretty thick for standard pink fluffy insulation to work well low in the band. Its not really about density but a related physical property called gas flow resistance that has a linear relationship [of a given material the higher the density, the higher the GFR].

Going from 4" to 24" thick with a higher GFR material like 705 or dense flavors of rockwool gives little reward for all the extra expense. About 4" is the "sweet spot' for efficeincy with such materials.

Using only 4" of a lower GFR material like roll insulation will not work on LF - but 24" of it will perform superlatively all the way across the band.

Mineral wool is not a health risk - but it is a nasty irritant - any breathable fabric cover will do to keep you away from it and vice versa - use the poly film if you want to reject HF as described above.

I've got 2 panels of rockwool available with different densities:
- LR S/PAP PN40 - 1350X600X40mm @ 3,75€
- LR S/PAP PN70 - 1350X600X30mm @ 4,75€

Which one should I buy and what's the thickness which is going to be more efficient?

Thank you

Last edited by aristidesfl; 20th April 2013 at 02:48 AM.. Reason: Mistake in numbers
#1142
22nd July 2013
Old 22nd July 2013
  #1142
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DIY Corner Bass Traps

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#1143
11th August 2013
Old 11th August 2013
  #1143
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Here are two 6" bass traps I built. I designed them so that I can move them between the control room (for mixing) and the sound booth (for tracking). My booth is not totally sound proof, so I they would not do much good in the control room. My design is a 2’ X 4’ oak frame glued to peg board. The peg board gives support to the insulation while allowing some areas to allow waves to pass through, a sort of diffusor. I then wrapped the insulation with burlap and fastening it to the oak frame on the backside. I then added wood corner to allow support, allowing the sides to remain open. I attach rails on the back for mounting them on the wall. Between the wood frame and the rails I have about 2.5” between the peg board and the wall. I then attached the hanging rail along the wall. I did one in the control room and two smaller ones in the booth. I did not realize that the inside of the support wood was going to show, so I did not paint them… a job I still have to do.
Attached Thumbnails
How I built my bass traps...-1.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-2.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-3.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-4.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-5.jpg  

How I built my bass traps...-6.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-7-control-room.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-8-booth.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-9-booth.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-10-booth.jpg  

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#1144
16th August 2013
Old 16th August 2013
  #1144
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That trail was a very neat idea!
#1145
16th September 2013
Old 16th September 2013
  #1145
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Alfo is offline
Hi everyone,

Just wanted to ask a quick question.

I bought myself some rockwool (acoustisorb 3) and am about to build my panels, and was wondering what you guys thought about a possible way I had planned to do it.

I was planning to cut the rockwool to size (1.2 x 600m x 50mm) and glue them directly to masonite sheets, then put fabric over them. I would then just hang them like a picture frame to the wall.

The practicality of this is that masonite is cheap, lightweight and it saves time building frames etc.

Just wondering what the possible issues of going about this way might be.

Cheers.
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#1146
17th September 2013
Old 17th September 2013
  #1146
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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stevenkelby is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfo View Post

I was planning to cut the rockwool to size (1.2 x 600m x 50mm) and glue them directly to masonite sheets, then put fabric over them. I would then just hang them like a picture frame to the wall.
The main problem with that is that is won't work as effectively as it could if it had an air gap.

Your 50mm of rockwool will be much more useful if it's hung 50mm away from the wall.

You can accomplish that with small 50mm sticks in the corners, to space the panel off the wall, but then the masonite is blocking the back of the rockwool, wasting it.

It's best to expose as much surface of the rockwool as possible.
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#1147
18th September 2013
Old 18th September 2013
  #1147
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make a frame so that the basstrap looks solid
it looks something like this.
also with frames like this you can easily hang those traps on the wall


Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfo View Post
Hi everyone,

Just wanted to ask a quick question.

I bought myself some rockwool (acoustisorb 3) and am about to build my panels, and was wondering what you guys thought about a possible way I had planned to do it.

I was planning to cut the rockwool to size (1.2 x 600m x 50mm) and glue them directly to masonite sheets, then put fabric over them. I would then just hang them like a picture frame to the wall.

The practicality of this is that masonite is cheap, lightweight and it saves time building frames etc.

Just wondering what the possible issues of going about this way might be.

Cheers.
Attached Thumbnails
How I built my bass traps...-.jpg   How I built my bass traps...-b.jpg  
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#1148
18th September 2013
Old 18th September 2013
  #1148
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Alfo is offline
Cheers for the assistance stevenkelby and sl4zhz.

I figured something wasn't right since no-one else had done it the way I planned.

Building frames seems like the way to go.
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#1149
18th September 2013
Old 18th September 2013
  #1149
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#1150
18th September 2013
Old 18th September 2013
  #1150
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Yeah same here. I also built the frame 15cm.. so two rockwool @5cm x 2 = 10cm
there are 5cm air gap for hanging and air gap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenkelby View Post
No worries Alfo Hanging them on the wall is good, but hanging them off the wall is even better

This thread has a link to a graph showing the effect of an air gap behind a trap:

Acoustic wall panels - air gap or thicker panel?...

Steve.
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#1151
2nd October 2013
Old 2nd October 2013
  #1151
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lucid life is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by bpape View Post
That'll work.

If you want to expose a bit more to the world, try drilling some holes in the sides, top and bottom.

Bryan
What do you mean?
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#1152
28th October 2013
Old 28th October 2013
  #1152
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andow is offline
My absorbers are finished!!

After two months of building on weekends, I finally have my first absorbers finished!

Front:


Back:


It was a lot more work than I expected (most of all the holes on the sides and the covering with fabric) but I think for my first panels they came out really nice!
Unfortunately I didn't make any pictures of the process, but I used 100mm Knauf TP 432 B panels and two layers of IKEA fabric (can't recall which one exactly right now).

Let me know what you think!
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#1153
28th October 2013
Old 28th October 2013
  #1153
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andow is offline
Oh, and the design is based on the panels from jaykay, who posted his pictures earlier in this thread! Thanks
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#1154
31st October 2013
Old 31st October 2013
  #1154
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JxCx is offline
Loving these ideas, a lot of inspiration for my own build. Particularly liking Jason's attention to detail, nice work.

Another Jason.
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#1155
31st October 2013
Old 31st October 2013
  #1155
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JxCx is offline
...
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#1156
7th January 2014
Old 7th January 2014
  #1156
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jeid is offline
Hello, wonder if someone can help. I'm going to be building corner traps/superchunks this week. I've done a little bit of reading and I'm needing a wee bit of advice.

I want to chunk 2 corners in my room. It's not a very wide room 242cm(around 8ft wide) by 333cm(around 11ft) long. I plan to cut the slabs I have into 8 chunks which would make them 60cm on the longest face and 42cm on the two shorter sides(2ft by 1.4ft) Is this going to be too small or should I be ok?

My only other option would be to make traps to straddle the corners, which wouldn't be a huge problem I guess. Any info would be great. Thanks
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#1157
11th January 2014
Old 11th January 2014
  #1157
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Photony is offline
Hi,
A couple of pictures of my new bass trap. As the latter picture shows there is still some finishing left to do.





The trap is 140cm wide, 50cm in heigh and some 40cm in depth at the thickest point.


This trap is used behind tv and the idea is that it absorbs the low freq sound wave that the speakers emit omnidirectionally. In practice using the trap preliminary measurements shows improvements in the 100-200hz or so range. Listening music also confirms a nice improvement in bass reproduction. Me likey =)


-Tony
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#1158
12th January 2014
Old 12th January 2014
  #1158
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emearg_s is offline
LOOKs like bath tub LOL But if works I say yeah !!!!
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#1159
19th January 2014
Old 19th January 2014
  #1159
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Photony is offline
Emearg, yes it is "tad" big =), but I think that once it is behind the tv it actually is quite unnoticeable and nice looking. I'll take a picture of how it looks there sometime and post it here.

I'm next considering to make some kind of curved corner bass trap, though my vision of that isn't perfectly clear yet. It's going to big, that I know =)

-Tony
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#1160
19th January 2014
Old 19th January 2014
  #1160
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emearg_s is offline
Is there resin for the curved ends as they seam lot work and I can't work out if they would make any acoustic difference from square box other than you be able to pivot the tv left and right ?

But As the wise man said if works and fits what you want then good on you !
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#1161
19th January 2014
Old 19th January 2014
  #1161
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Photony is offline
The arches are made by gluing and bending thin slides of wood together, and yes making those took a lot of work. I needed first to make a mold for the arches.

Square box would probably work as well if not better, but I liked to put in the extra effort for the looks.


-Tony
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#1162
1 Week Ago
Old 1 Week Ago
  #1162
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Joining the party.

Got a local chap building these as I'm not good with such things.

12 panels to start a 3.4L x 2.9W x 2.8H meters personal mixing and production room in a spare bedroom we have here.

They're all 1.20 x 0.60 (meters), all 10 cm thick. Brazilian brand of rockwool, 64 kg/m³ density.

How I built my bass traps...-img_0987.jpg How I built my bass traps...-img_0988.jpg

Now with the cover, which is a local synthetic fabric. Cheap and works for now:

How I built my bass traps...-10509516_10152230912246821_1240945209947219368_n.jpg How I built my bass traps...-10547520_10152231145201821_7195037776489409768_n.jpg How I built my bass traps...-10151293_10152231145306821_1248808876456210112_n.jpg

Sorry for the lo-res phone pics. Better pics next week when I hopefully get to install them.

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#1163
1 Week Ago
Old 1 Week Ago
  #1163
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ellisr63 is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by andow View Post
After two months of building on weekends, I finally have my first absorbers finished!

Front:


Back:


It was a lot more work than I expected (most of all the holes on the sides and the covering with fabric) but I think for my first panels they came out really nice!
Unfortunately I didn't make any pictures of the process, but I used 100mm Knauf TP 432 B panels and two layers of IKEA fabric (can't recall which one exactly right now).

Let me know what you think!
Would the holes in the sides be good for Absorbers other than for bass traps... ie first reflection panels?
#1164
1 Day Ago
Old 1 Day Ago
  #1164
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Joined: Jul 2014
Location: SE TN

jcjr is offline
Been nerding out reading lots of GS acoustics threads for awhile. Many of the trap designs are ingenious. Inexpensive in materials, easy to assemble, good-looking, etc.

Desiring to use cheap Roxul Safe'n'Sound, which is somewhat floppy and fragile, I wanted a trap rigid enough to protect the rockwool, but as light as possible. Neither over-built nor under-built, and preferably using scraps already in my wood rack. Get rid of a bunch of pieces too small for most projects but too big to discard, "Gee I might need a scrap that size some day."

The first corner-straddle trap, internal dimension 9" deep, 70 1/2" tall, 22 1/2" wide. External dimensions 10" deep, 72" tall, 23 1/2" wide. Except for a bottom plate of 3/4" plywood, all made of 1 1/2" wide sticks cut out of half-inch plywood on the table saw. Assembled mostly with titebond III glue and finish nailer, 1.25" 18 gauge nails. Skinny little nails.





I usually fit pieces together with the glue, clamp temporarily if necessary, and waste enough airgun nails that it can't move til the glue dries, then remove clamps and move on. No glue-up then wait for hours.

It is open on front, back, both sides and top. Burlap fabric. 7" opening on sides and top, about 20" opening on front and rear. I didn't like making the vertical ribs 1 1/2" wide, but half-inch plywood strips are bendy, and having never made this, didn't want it too wobbly, though fixing two strips at right angle on each corner increases the stiffness.

The 1" horizontal braces, was worried that they might not glue in firmly without extra support, or taking the time to cut splint inserts, so added the little triangle reinforcements on each side of the horizontal braces "just in case".

The batt size is 47" X 15" X 3". So the box is filled with three layers, 1.5 batts tall and 1.5 batts wide. First layer, on bottom, 1 full batt beside a half batt cut vertically. On top, a half batt cut horizontally, aside a quarter batt cut both horizontally and vertically. Electric bread knife cuts the stuff trivially easy.

The second layer of rockwool puts the big pieces on top, swapped left-to-right, so that seams don't go all the way thru front to back. Then the third layer has the same layout as the first layer. Was thinking perhaps the overlapping would also help support the insulation in the box.

Assembly sequence-- Made the open top out of sticks, cut the solid bottom piece, then attached to the top&bottom, vertical supports for front and sides. Attached the horz supports.

Then stapled in one big piece of burlap for front and both sides, and a small piece of burlap for the top opening. Discovered that Titebond III glues burlap to wood GREAT! After stapling in the fabric, ran a bead of the glue down each side, then use finger to dab/spread the glue down thru the fabric along the staple line. As the burlap wets with glue it lays right against the wood and glues to the wood firm after an hour drytime.

Burlap looks real likely to unravel, so I didn't trust mere occasional staples to keep it from unraveling around the edges over time. With every horz and vert strand glued firm to the edge struts, seems that as long as the fabric strands don't start breaking in the middle, it ought to stay in place fairly well over time.

After installing the rockwool, I stapled in the back burlap. Ran beads of glue over the fabric and smoothed the glue in, then nailed on the back sticks. So that the back burlap is hard-glued in a sandwich between the side sticks and back sticks.

One hazard with this method-- Because the unit is somewhat floppy until all pieces have been assembled, it is easy to mistakenly pull the back burlap too tight while stapling, and bow-in the rear sides. Which will somewhat fix itself when the back sticks are nailed on, but better to avoid the issue by not pulling the fabric so tight.

Ran masking tape around all exterior fabric edges and used router 1/4" round-off bit to round all edges that had not been previously rounded off. The tape helps keep sawdust out of the fabric, and obviously makes the box easier to paint without painting the fabric.

Filled a zillion tiny nail holes with elmers white wood filler. Final sanding.

One of my favorite paints, perhaps usa-only, is a Glidden water-based primer called Gripper. Gripper will stick to anything, is tough as nails, very difficult to scratch or even sand off, and dries incredibly fast. Smells kinda nasty as water-based paints go, but not an intolerably bad smell, and the smell doesn't linger after dry.

Post-Mortem


Good-- The box is fairly light, easy to pick up and move. It is fairly rigid. Easily able to support the rockwool and itself. Inexpensive, about $20 of rockwool, less than a half sheet of half-inch plywood, plus burlap, staples, nailgun nails, glue, filler, paint.

Indifferent-- The box is does have some torsion, twisting wobble if you pick it up in such a way that the box is twisted along the long dimension. But it is not necessary to twist the box to pick it up and move it. Torsion problem most obvious getting it off the workbench and into the office, with just one person (me). Not a problem for a box that is only moved occasionally, but would need to be stronger to go on the road.

Not so good-- It took too long to assemble. Building the front and sides, then stapling the fabric inside, it was annoying to stretch and staple the fabric down inside the box. A little crowded stapling inside the almost-complete box.

So the next trap was made the same size and overall appearance, but with modified construction to see if it could be made faster and a little more rigid, with bigger openings and smaller struts.
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#1165
1 Day Ago
Old 1 Day Ago
  #1165
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Joined: Jul 2014
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jcjr is offline
The next bass trap has near-identical dimensions and appearance, but different construction details.





Made almost entirely out of 1" strips of half-inch plywood. This one is about the same weight as the first, but has larger openings and a bit more rigid. Unfortunately it took about as long to assemble as did the first trap.

Also used up some quarter-inch plywood scraps from the wood rack. I didn't want to use metal reinforcement angle brackets (cheap per piece but lots of them get expensive). And didn't want to spend lots of time cutting numerous dado or splint slices to make all the pieces lock firmly together.

So this trap was assembled similar to how one would assemble a balsa model airplane. Cut lots of 1" strips out of both half-inch and quarter-inch plywood, so that the total dimension of each assembled member is 3/4" X 1".

For instance on the horizontal struts, the half-inch stick was cut to fit between the vertical pieces, and its corresponding quarter-inch stick was cut 2 inches longer. Both pieces were glued and stapled together to make a 3/4" stick with quarter-inch thick tabs extending 1" out each end.

Then the horizontal stick is glued to the vertical struts and stapled thru the 1/4" overlapping tabs. Then short pieces of 1/4" sticks glued atop the vertical struts "filling the gaps" between attachment points. Yielding a final result of a flat frame made of 1" wide, 3/4" thick members, the frame members locked together very rigidly.

I built five flat frames, one each for front and back (identical) and both sides (identical), and top. Bottom a solid piece of 3/4" plywood. Then used the router to round-off all edges, and finally stapled/glued the burlap to each frame. It was much easier/quicker to staple burlap to each flat frame, compared to the first experiment's stapling burlap inside a mostly-assembled box.

After having completed fabric-lined flat frames for all sides, I first glued-nailed both side frames to the top and bottom pieces. Then glued-nailed the front frame to the top, bottom and sides.

Filled with rockwool, then glued-nailed the back frame to complete the box. Then final routing, filling, sanding, paint.

Each 1" X 3/4" stick, when assembled to the final box, makes struts about 1 3/4" thick in one dimension and 1" in the other dimension, a fair amount of wood cross-section for stiffness, while obscuring a minimum amount of the rockwool.

And each piece of burlap gets mounted in a glue-strut sandwich all the way around, so if the burlap doesn't start breaking strands in the middle, seems unlikely to unravel from the sides.

A shame that it is what I would consider a fairly labor-intensive design for a simple box full of insulation. Oh well...
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#1166
1 Day Ago
Old 1 Day Ago
  #1166
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Joined: Apr 2012
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andow is offline
Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
Would the holes in the sides be good for Absorbers other than for bass traps... ie first reflection panels?
Actually no. The holes just have an influence on soundwaves arriving on the sides of the panel, where the holes are located. This means they just affect the diffuse sound field in the room and not the first reflections, which usually arrive more or less perpendicular to the front surface.

Although the traps look pretty good, I'd never do it again this way. The holes are just too much work and it takes very long to drill, sand and paint. They don't make that much difference on the panels performance anyway...
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