How I built my bass traps...

[SaSi_SiDi]

It is likely that the free hanging limb mass will have an unsuitably low resonance frequency and that my mounting it at both edges (with some tension) tunes the sheet into a usable frequency range. Something like tuning the strings on a string instrument.

More things to think about. Need to find a way of experimenting and measuring. Perhaps by hanging some weight from each sheet.

Perhaps a long, 8ft, sheet of bitumen isn't a bad idea. The topmost part, tensioned by the weight of the material below will have a higher resonance frequency while the lower portion will tune lower in the spectrum. Question is what the range will be.

Would it be a reasonable measurement to hang 3 to 5 sheets, each 8ft long at a distance of 1" from the wall and measure with REW before and after each sheet is mounted?

[nosebleedaudio]

Just built 4 custom bass traps for a client..
Fit very nice in the corners.

[SaSi_SiDi]

Nice looking. Is the light coming through the trap what it appears to be? Light coming through pidgeonhole windows in the back of the trap? If so, then the trap must be pretty thin. A 4" thick panel would not allow light to be seen through.

Can you describe the trap?

[stoneagejim]

sweet traps!

im off down to diy store this weekend! just moved into a new flat and i need to tune this horrible BOOOMY room!

again.... very nice traps

jim

[mikethebike]

Hi All

I have been lurking around this great thread seeing how folks have been getting on with their projects - I am just about to do some corner experiments myself and was loking for the right Rockwool to use. For the UK folks, I came accross this place that has some info on the products and seems to be the cheapest going.

rockwool flexi | universal slabs | rockfibre insulation | various densities | rwa45 | rw3 | rw4 | rw5 | rw6

The RW3 or RW4 (60 Kg/m3 and 80 kg/m3) seems to be the right stuff to use and comes in 100mm (4 inch slabs) - Any comments as to which is best?

Regards

Mike

[Finnish]

My story so far!

Bass trapping!

[Finnish]

Some updates to situation:

More bass traps

[mikethebike]

Hi all -

a question about the correct stuff to use in the construction of these absorbers.

In the UK we have stuff called Rockwool which is made from "volcanic ash" - .i.e. it is neither fibreglass or mineral wool (or is it?). It comes in 60/80 and 100 Kg/m3 densities. Which would be the most appropriate to use for these absorbers?

Thanks

Mike

[PaulP]

Originally Posted by mikethebike

In the UK we have stuff called Rockwool which is made from "volcanic ash" - .i.e. it is neither fibreglass or mineral wool (or is it?). It comes in 60/80 and 100 Kg/m3 densities. Which would be the most appropriate to use for these absorbers?

In this thread alone there are 79 references to rockwool. A search of the
forum turned up 500 hits.

Search is your friend.

Paul P

[johndykstra]

Paul, did you REALLY count?

In terms of the question, use the denser stuff for 2-6" thick traps, less dense for 6"-12", and go with standard builder's grade fibre batts for anything over a 1' thick.

[mikethebike]

ooooops

[Finnish]

All bass traps (and material) on the wall, I'll do some measurements with Room EQ Wizards tomorrow if I have to time.

Traps on the wall

[Finnish]

Ok, here's the latest info

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/5214813-post18.html

[Finnish]

And my final setup, at least for a while.

Setup

[Adlen]

Got 3 different designs for traps I've been working on. One I totally forgot to photograph, the other two will be built this weekend and I will document properly with build photos and PDF design sheets...

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

Hope its cool to do this. Sorry if I'm in error posting this here.

My Panels & Bass Trap build

Small mixing room progress

[4 the Max]

I purchased OC703 without the FRK/FRS (paper/mesh/foil) mentioned here.

1. Where is it possible to buy it separately?
2. How can I make my own if it can't be purchased?

3. Does the paper or foil side face the front?

Thanks.

[acoustimac]

Nice build! those trapps look slick?
What style and fabric type are you using?
Got any pics?

I hear a lot of folks are using that guilford of maine FR701, but i think it's overpriced burlap if you ask me.. Theres some nice guilford fabrics like Auster and Here & Now, but those here & nows look like the herculon on my dad's old couch back in the early 80's.. and theyre a bit pricy for my blood.

E-Chuuta!

[Smurf_Rocks]

Hey do you have old shelves or cabinets?
On the shelves... take off the back.
Stuff them with PILLOWS!!!
Set them in the corners of the room.

THIS SHOULD NOT BE PERMANENT... i used this until i had time/money to build better ones.

Hope this helps guys!!

[Adlen]

Built myself a pair of these babie

[johndykstra]

Originally Posted by Adlen

Built myself a pair of these babie

nice work! what are they tuned to? is that perf plate a pre fab?

[Adlen]

Originally Posted by dykstraster@gmai

nice work! what are they tuned to? is that perf plate a pre fab?

Haven't done any tests yet but they've added quite a bit of clarity to this room.

The front plate was a pre fab yeah, managed to get 2 for free.

If anyone wants a guide to making these I can post some more pics.

I'll be building a couple of smaller traps soon to look decorative because I have a lot of leftover Rockwool :P

[Kertbert]

First I'd like to say how helpful this thread has been for me. A lot of great ideas and designs here. I decided I was going to copy the 1x1 stick frame design that has the notches in the insulation to hold it in.

Before I start building, has anyone tried or thought through doing a friction fit on this design instead of cutting notches. The idea would be to have the front and back flush with the wood and the frame would hold it in by being ever so slightly tighter than 2'x4'. Once the frame is built you'd just squeeze in the insulation.

My much handier than me Father in law suggested this as a way to save cutting tons of notches and it also frees up a bit of frontal/rear surface area at the expense of the sides.

[johndykstra]

Originally Posted by Kertbert

First I'd like to say how helpful this thread has been for me. A lot of great ideas and designs here. I decided I was going to copy the 1x1 stick frame design that has the notches in the insulation to hold it in.

Before I start building, has anyone tried or thought through doing a friction fit on this design instead of cutting notches. The idea would be to have the front and back flush with the wood and the frame would hold it in by being ever so slightly tighter than 2'x4'. Once the frame is built you'd just squeeze in the insulation.

My much handier than me Father in law suggested this as a way to save cutting tons of notches and it also frees up a bit of frontal/rear surface area at the expense of the sides.

That will work fine. I did my wall panels this way

[Kertbert]

Originally Posted by dykstraster@gmai

That will work fine. I did my wall panels this way

For what thicknesses did you do this? I'm thinking it would work well for 4" and above but for 2" the spacers would only be about 0.5" which seems too small to me.

[johndykstra]

Originally Posted by Kertbert

For what thicknesses did you do this? I'm thinking it would work well for 4" and above but for 2" the spacers would only be about 0.5" which seems too small to me.

I don't understand, sorry. what spacers. I did 2" thick fiberglass. I surrounded it with wood that's 2" thick... in my case not 2x4's, but hard wood. Both sides are covered with fabric, and trim applied to the front to hide staples, back is raw... cheap painters cloth. I then spaced those complete panels from the wall using wood scrap. I think I ended up with a 3/4" gap... using plywood scraps. These we cut as "feet", and attached to the corners of the back of the frame.

[Kertbert]

Originally Posted by dykstraster@gmai

I don't understand, sorry. what spacers. I did 2" thick fiberglass. I surrounded it with wood that's 2" thick... in my case not 2x4's, but hard wood. Both sides are covered with fabric, and trim applied to the front to hide staples, back is raw... cheap painters cloth. I then spaced those complete panels from the wall using wood scrap. I think I ended up with a 3/4" gap... using plywood scraps. These we cut as "feet", and attached to the corners of the back of the frame.

The design I'm talking about is the stick frame on pg.17 (posts 491-494). I was thinking about making it a friction fit instead of cutting notches but still keeping the stick frame so the sides are exposed. By spacers I mean the smallest sticks in the stick frame design that give it depth.

[johndykstra]

I get it now. Look at it again though. That is a 2" thick piece of absorbent. The outer and inner frame are outside of the material, so for a 2" thick trap, the spacers are 2" thick. To use this design, I would just follow it. Making the frame smaller and snugging is no easier than notching the corners of some insulation. Having the insulation flush with the wood frame on the face... I see no benefit to this. Depending on the insulation you use (rockwool for example) the surface can be quite irregular. Also, this design strikes me as having limitations to how deep you will be able to go. That stick frame will only allow so much weight, I'd think.

This design seems rather labor intensive to me, and it doesn't allow for an easy air gap against the wall... there is also no fabric on the back side. Are you doing corner traps or wall traps?

Here's my favorite wall panel. Frame is a 1x2". This creates a 2" airgap to the wall. To the front of that frame you attach a very cheap fabric (tan in this picture. This fabric is sandwiched between the frame and your insulation...in this case 2" thick. You then wrap that whole package in your finish fabric. Assembly is easy. Lay down the finish fabric (good side down). Lay your insulation on top of that. Then lay the frame down, with crap fabric touching the insulation. Pull the good fabric around the edges and staple it to the frame. Nice gift wrapping style corners. THe exposed frame on the rear makes hanging a breeze.



my 2 cents.

[Agurvitz]

Hello everyone...
I would like to build a rounded or curved corner bass trap like the following image:

Sorry if the picture is small but if you get closer you can see the rounded foundation of this bass trap.

Somebody know the techniqe to construct it and cover it without slants out in front of the fabric?

Thanks

[hasamatt]

Originally Posted by zoff

Thanks for replying. I hope I'm not hijacking the OP.

The wood is 2 inches wide and about 1.5 inches deep, so the 703 is 1.5 from the wall (I'm using these on the corners of the room).
Am I missing something?
Thanks.

Great thread! Just what I have been looking for to commence the construction of my bass traps.
Regarding the placement of these traps in the corners of your room - would it be worthwhile to mitre the top and bottom ends to 45 degrees so that the finished box fits snugly into the corner of the wallspace? (I hope that my question is not too vague).