How I built my bass traps...

[fcorl]

Finally finished the first couple wall reflectors/absorbers.... I haven’t mounted them yet, (need to build about 8 more). Then I will start on the corner traps. Here are some photos. I used Cojo's method of cutting out the holes in the frame, but covered the entire frame in burlap, then covered the insulation in a second color of burlap. The round molding finishes them off nicely, although I suck at cutting the coped angles of the molding. These are 3" thick insulation in 28"X48", 1"X4" frames. I will take some shots of the "upholstering work" and add to it next time around....


Frank

[fcorl]

FInished traps.....

[Cojo]

Originally Posted by fcorl

FInished traps.....

Very nice! Like the finish you got to them!

[dim light]

fcorl - nice work man!

I am known as the straight saw man in my country - thank good there is a rear and front on my Cinder Block Stands (trademark) -

I destroyed two saws and my arm got very tired!

Here they are - I will paint them and make them sexy when the cinder is dry.

[xmostynx]

oh yea dim... (.) (.) nice blocks buddy

[dim light]

Thanks man - I love my saw lines - I made them very gay - not straight!

almost forgot

( .)(. )

[Cojo]

Originally Posted by dim light

fcorl - nice work man!

I am known as the straight saw man in my country - thank good there is a rear and front on my Cinder Block Stands (trademark) -

I destroyed two saws and my arm got very tired!

Here they are - I will paint them and make them sexy when the cinder is dry.

HARDCORE!!! thumbsup

[Glenn Kuras]

Originally Posted by dim light

Thanks man - I love my saw lines - I made them very gay - not straight!

almost forgot

( .)(. )

Tell me you where sobor when you did this.

[A27Hull]

Hello all,

I really enjoy this thread .

Here's my dilema:

A guy in town has a [garage] he wants to convert into a studio. It has an existing structure of about 24'x24' with several modifcations already made.

-Pat's Floorplan shows the structure as is.

-Pat's proposed floorplan shows what I'd like to do with it, namely, reinsulation the stud gaps with rockwool, and modify the extisting inner walls to be "soft", i.e., 4" thick frame with 4" rockwool/wire mesh/fabric construction.

-Pat's ceiling is a diagram of the existing ceiling space, which I would also like to modify it in a similar fashion as the internal wall structure. My thinking is that the pyramid attic space could serve as a band variable 'bass trap' of sorts for the entire structure.

-Pat's wall construction is a diagram of the basic wall/ceiling construction.

Other than cost, what fatal errors have I overlooked. I know that reintroducing controlled 'hard' surfaces will help with the building being anechoic in nature, and I am considering addtional DIY absorbers within the particular rooms.

Any comments would be much appreciated!

[A27Hull]

Here are the .jpg versions:

[dim light]

Originally Posted by myfipie

Tell me you where sobor when you did this.

HAHAHAHA!

YOU SMUCK!

[xmostynx]

hahhahahaha


dim whats in your pipe

[dim light]

My pipe: fisherman's friend and old news and a mad indian who tells me to lay low.

(|) <- ?

[dim light]

Get Ready

[xmostynx]

Originally Posted by dim light

(|) <- ?

hahahaha

[Cojo]

Originally Posted by dim light

Get Ready

Nice picture!

I think you're on to something... you can call them Ready Stands! thumbsup

[A27Hull]

bump

anyone?

[rolo95]

Originally Posted by Cojo

Nice picture!

I think you're on to something... you can call them Ready Stands! thumbsup

Hey Cojo!!!
you rulezz man...

and let me see all this thread slowly to apreciate others nice traps i also see
but tooo fast.,. that i dont know who made them....
anyway man.. i know you started this....

love your traps man...
( an Mix Engineer admirer of real nice DIY Work...)

Rolo.

[Scott@RealTraps]

Originally Posted by A27Hull

bump

anyone?

I haven't really had time to look carefully at your diagrams (and I'll probably be up all night trying to finish up a project in my studio that I've got a tight deadline on), but the first thing that occurs to me is . . . is isolation between the different rooms at all a concern?

Because if isolation is a concern, the fabric walls aren't going to help you at all with that, and also what you seem to be suggesting for the attic is going to make isolation impossible as well.

Soundproofing and acoustic treatments are two completely separate things, and what works for one purpose doesn't necessarily work for the other purpose.

If you need isolation, I recommend that you spend some time reading the articles on soundproofing on the Green Glue company's site (http://www.greengluecompany.com/a-So...ofingTopic.php)

To understand some of the things I mentioned about regarding isolation, read up on decoupling and also on flanking noise (that will explain what I'm talking about with the attic). But seriously I would read all of the articles linked there if you want to learn about isolation for a studio.

Once you've got that sorted, then you'll want to focus on building the 703-based broadband traps, to get things sounding good *within* the rooms.

[Scott@RealTraps]

Originally Posted by fcorl

FInished traps.....

Fcorl . . . nice work, man! Those look GREAT! Now that's craftsmanship. I really like what you did with the two different fabric colours.


* * * * * * **


Dim! You are a madman! LOL.

I looked in here earlier today to find that not only had you run out and bought some cinder blocks, but you've sawed them in half . . . by hand, no less! All within, what . . . 12 hours or so of the time I had posted the suggestion? Hardcore indeed. You're hilarious. I love it.

If you glue MDF to the top and bottom to avoid scratches, that should be fine, as long as you aren't extending it out over the edges on the top. Another option could also use some hard, dense rubber pads underneath the bottom, maybe anything up to 1 cm thick or so. I would keep the top part, where the speaker will sit, as solid as possible, so there isn't any give at that point. Hard, dense rubber at the bottom might serve to decouple the stand from the floor a bit, but wouldn't create a situation that would allow for enough movement of the stand from the vibration of the speakers to cause any problems.

Another option, aside from painting the stands, would be to find some nice fabric that fits in well with your room's decor, and artfully draping it over the stands. Though I'm sure whatever you come up with will probably look great, as you seem to have a bit of a talent for design, etc.

( . )( . ) <--

[dim light]

Thanks Scott!

Yeah now I'm speeding fast in the fast lane - I have a big mix project this spring so I want the room to be candy mint.

The MDF is 4 inch bigger on all sides - like a hat on top of the cinder block - I suspect it's better to go with rubber pads - mouse pads work good for this. Thanks again for the advice - I agree and it makes sense.

Actually I read your thread in the morning I was on my way to buy MDF but then changed my mind after reading your post. Thanks!

I'm going to move the console a maybe 3 - 4 foots away from the front wall - I suspect it will improve the graph. Also remove the bass trap on the right side - I should have moved it long time ago - it's from the old studio design. I need to get symmetry on both sides. I have my Rhodes and synth on one side and the computer on the other side so I will see what works best - try to find a good L/R image etc. I think Room EQ Wiz will show the way to glory and honey!

[dim light]

Originally Posted by Cojo

Nice picture!

I think you're on to something... you can call them Ready Stands! thumbsup

Heavy Stands!

[Scott@RealTraps]

Originally Posted by dim light

Thanks Scott!
The MDF is 4 inch bigger on all sides - like a hat on top of the cinder block -

That's not such a huge deal, actually -- the main thing is not to set the monitors out on a shelf. Sorry . . . didn't mean to confuse you! I was just suggesting options! And there would be no problem with MDF being 4 inches bigger on all sides at the *base* of the stand -- the larger concern is what's on *top* of the stand.

Whatever you do, it's probably best to be able to set the speakers to the front edge of the stands (so the face of the speaker is basically in a straight line with the front surface of the stands), so that you don't have an extra little "shelf" sticking out the front there for high/mid frequency reflections to bounce off (see my comments to for reflections to aapee about his NS-10s -- same thing applies for your monitors . . . try to set them up to avoid unwanted reflections as much as possible). If you could cut the MDF down so that it is exactly the size of the top of the stand, you'd be fine.

I suspect it's better to go with rubber pads - mouse pads work good for this. Thanks again for the advice - I agree and it makes sense.

Actually, I was talking about really HEAVY, DENSE rubber, like the kind of rubber they use to make mud flaps for trucks, or the rubber floor mats in cars.

Mouse pads, not so good. Too soft -- too much give. It would probably be OK to use the mouse pad-type rubber *underneath* the stands, because the weight of the stands will compress the rubber there. But I wouldn't put that kind of rubber between the speaker and the stand, especially with smaller speakers like yours, because there is too much give -- it will allow for very small movements that could cause time smearing (as I described in my earlier post).

If you drape the stands with some fabric, that should be enough to protect the speakers from scratches. Or another thing you could use between the speakers and the stands is blu-tack -- four little blobs of blu-tack oughta do it.

The main goal here is to set this up so there is NO movement of the speakers. Since your speakers are a bit small and relatively light (but they still put out some pretty decent low end for a speaker that size!), the material you use between your speakers and stands is a bit more critical in your case, because they don't have the weight to compress things like spongy rubber.

(Hehe . . . sorry to be a little redundant in my explanations, but I just want to make sure that I'm being clear in my explanations!)

[Cojo]

Originally Posted by dim light

Heavy Stands!

Yep, there you have it! A cool name is half the success!

You rock dim!

[Cojo]

Originally Posted by rolo95

Hey Cojo!!!
you rulezz man...

and let me see all this thread slowly to apreciate others nice traps i also see
but tooo fast.,. that i dont know who made them....
anyway man.. i know you started this....

love your traps man...
( an Mix Engineer admirer of real nice DIY Work...)

Rolo.

Wow, thank you so much! Your words mean alot to me!

[dim light]

Hi Scott!

Thanks for all the help. I need to find heavy dense rubber - that's what I want. Some of my older mouse pads are fairly heavy but I'm going to look for heavier rubber. That would also work well for protecting my floor.

Think I'll skip the MDF - it's just more work to glue it to the cinder, rubber is easier to install.

Awesome man - thanks a lot!

Cojo - man, we should start a company! I think my heavy stands will be perfect to ship to America - cheap and easy to install. Feedex will love us.

[neon]

Please somebody can tell me which fabrics are good to wrap the Owen Corning panels? and how much would cost a yard?

Thanks!

[Glenn Kuras]

Originally Posted by neon

Please somebody can tell me which fabrics are good to wrap the Owen Corning panels? and how much would cost a yard?

Thanks!

Any fabric you can blow through should be fine. I have seen costs from $2.00 per yard up to $12.00 per yard.. Go to a local fabric store and see what they have.

Glenn

[neon]

Originally Posted by myfipie

Any fabric you can blow through should be fine. I have seen costs from $2.00 per yard up to $12.00 per yard.. Go to a local fabric store and see what they have.

Glenn

Yes I heard about any fabric you can blow thru..but can you please name some well known good fabrics?

Thanks!

[dim light]

Originally Posted by neon

Yes I heard about any fabric you can blow thru..but can you please name some well known good fabrics?

Thanks!

I bought sheets from IKEA - White ones that work flawless in my modest home. If it feels good then it's good.