How I built my bass traps...

[rolo95]

Originally Posted by Cojo

Nice picture!

I think you're on to something... you can call them Ready Stands!

Hey Cojo!!!
you rulezz man...

and let me see all this thread slowly to apreciate others nice traps i also see
but tooo fast.,. that i dont know who made them....
anyway man.. i know you started this....

love your traps man...
( an Mix Engineer admirer of real nice DIY Work...)

Rolo.

[Scott@RealTraps]

Originally Posted by A27Hull

bump

anyone?

I haven't really had time to look carefully at your diagrams (and I'll probably be up all night trying to finish up a project in my studio that I've got a tight deadline on), but the first thing that occurs to me is . . . is isolation between the different rooms at all a concern?

Because if isolation is a concern, the fabric walls aren't going to help you at all with that, and also what you seem to be suggesting for the attic is going to make isolation impossible as well.

Soundproofing and acoustic treatments are two completely separate things, and what works for one purpose doesn't necessarily work for the other purpose.

If you need isolation, I recommend that you spend some time reading the articles on soundproofing on the Green Glue company's site (http://www.greengluecompany.com/a-So...ofingTopic.php)

To understand some of the things I mentioned about regarding isolation, read up on decoupling and also on flanking noise (that will explain what I'm talking about with the attic). But seriously I would read all of the articles linked there if you want to learn about isolation for a studio.

Once you've got that sorted, then you'll want to focus on building the 703-based broadband traps, to get things sounding good *within* the rooms.

[Scott@RealTraps]

Originally Posted by fcorl

FInished traps.....

Fcorl . . . nice work, man! Those look GREAT! Now that's craftsmanship. I really like what you did with the two different fabric colours.


* * * * * * **


Dim! You are a madman! LOL.

I looked in here earlier today to find that not only had you run out and bought some cinder blocks, but you've sawed them in half . . . by hand, no less! All within, what . . . 12 hours or so of the time I had posted the suggestion? Hardcore indeed. You're hilarious. I love it.

If you glue MDF to the top and bottom to avoid scratches, that should be fine, as long as you aren't extending it out over the edges on the top. Another option could also use some hard, dense rubber pads underneath the bottom, maybe anything up to 1 cm thick or so. I would keep the top part, where the speaker will sit, as solid as possible, so there isn't any give at that point. Hard, dense rubber at the bottom might serve to decouple the stand from the floor a bit, but wouldn't create a situation that would allow for enough movement of the stand from the vibration of the speakers to cause any problems.

Another option, aside from painting the stands, would be to find some nice fabric that fits in well with your room's decor, and artfully draping it over the stands. Though I'm sure whatever you come up with will probably look great, as you seem to have a bit of a talent for design, etc.

( . )( . ) <--

[Scott@RealTraps]

Originally Posted by dim light

Thanks Scott!
The MDF is 4 inch bigger on all sides - like a hat on top of the cinder block -

That's not such a huge deal, actually -- the main thing is not to set the monitors out on a shelf. Sorry . . . didn't mean to confuse you! I was just suggesting options! And there would be no problem with MDF being 4 inches bigger on all sides at the *base* of the stand -- the larger concern is what's on *top* of the stand.

Whatever you do, it's probably best to be able to set the speakers to the front edge of the stands (so the face of the speaker is basically in a straight line with the front surface of the stands), so that you don't have an extra little "shelf" sticking out the front there for high/mid frequency reflections to bounce off (see my comments to for reflections to aapee about his NS-10s -- same thing applies for your monitors . . . try to set them up to avoid unwanted reflections as much as possible). If you could cut the MDF down so that it is exactly the size of the top of the stand, you'd be fine.

I suspect it's better to go with rubber pads - mouse pads work good for this. Thanks again for the advice - I agree and it makes sense.

Actually, I was talking about really HEAVY, DENSE rubber, like the kind of rubber they use to make mud flaps for trucks, or the rubber floor mats in cars.

Mouse pads, not so good. Too soft -- too much give. It would probably be OK to use the mouse pad-type rubber *underneath* the stands, because the weight of the stands will compress the rubber there. But I wouldn't put that kind of rubber between the speaker and the stand, especially with smaller speakers like yours, because there is too much give -- it will allow for very small movements that could cause time smearing (as I described in my earlier post).

If you drape the stands with some fabric, that should be enough to protect the speakers from scratches. Or another thing you could use between the speakers and the stands is blu-tack -- four little blobs of blu-tack oughta do it.

The main goal here is to set this up so there is NO movement of the speakers. Since your speakers are a bit small and relatively light (but they still put out some pretty decent low end for a speaker that size!), the material you use between your speakers and stands is a bit more critical in your case, because they don't have the weight to compress things like spongy rubber.

(Hehe . . . sorry to be a little redundant in my explanations, but I just want to make sure that I'm being clear in my explanations!)

[Cojo]

Originally Posted by dim light

Heavy Stands!

Yep, there you have it! A cool name is half the success!

You rock dim!

[Cojo]

Originally Posted by rolo95

Hey Cojo!!!
you rulezz man...

and let me see all this thread slowly to apreciate others nice traps i also see
but tooo fast.,. that i dont know who made them....
anyway man.. i know you started this....

love your traps man...
( an Mix Engineer admirer of real nice DIY Work...)

Rolo.

Wow, thank you so much! Your words mean alot to me!

[neon]

Please somebody can tell me which fabrics are good to wrap the Owen Corning panels? and how much would cost a yard?

Thanks!

[Glenn Kuras]

Originally Posted by neon

Please somebody can tell me which fabrics are good to wrap the Owen Corning panels? and how much would cost a yard?

Thanks!

Any fabric you can blow through should be fine. I have seen costs from $2.00 per yard up to $12.00 per yard.. Go to a local fabric store and see what they have.

Glenn

[neon]

Originally Posted by myfipie

Any fabric you can blow through should be fine. I have seen costs from $2.00 per yard up to $12.00 per yard.. Go to a local fabric store and see what they have.

Glenn

Yes I heard about any fabric you can blow thru..but can you please name some well known good fabrics?

Thanks!

[Glenn Kuras]

Originally Posted by neon

Yes I heard about any fabric you can blow thru..but can you please name some well known good fabrics?

Thanks!

Burlap and Guilford of Maine seem to be the 2 biggest. I am not a big fan of burlap because of the looks, but it will work pretty well for you.
Go to www.fabric.com and take a look around. Anything opened cell should be fine.

Glenn

[Cojo]

Originally Posted by dim light

Cojo - man, we should start a company! I think my heavy stands will be perfect to ship to America - cheap and easy to install. Feedex will love us.

Heavy stands and Heavy traps Ltd. We can offer Heavy deals and Tons of products

[Cojo]

Originally Posted by dim light

I bought sheets from IKEA - White ones that work flawless in my modest home. If it feels good then it's good.

I used IKEA fabric too.

[r0ck1r0ck2]

yep...ikea is a pestilence in europe..

found my material in the dumpster...right behind ikea.

[Cojo]

Originally Posted by r0ck1r0ck2

yep...ikea is a pestilence in europe..

found my material in the dumpster...right behind ikea.

[r0ck1r0ck2]

a joke...

sorry.

More Photo's!

more Wine!

[fcorl]

Thanks for all of the comments and all of the information! This thread has been great. I'm sure I'll have some more basic construction questions when I build the corner traps. I've learned a lot and there is so much info w/ the sound wave science.... it makes my head spin.

Originally Posted by neon
Yes I heard about any fabric you can blow thru..but can you please name some well known good fabrics?

Thanks!

Also, I used plain old Burlap from Joanne Fabrics. $2.99 a yard. It comes in about 8 colors. I agree it's not the greatest looking stuff, it kind of looks like 70's furniture......

[Cojo]

Originally Posted by r0ck1r0ck2

a joke...

sorry.

More Photo's!

more Wine!

Yes, I know that and I thought it was very funny. I should have put a smiling face beside the . he, he!



Here's an extra to use freely in this thread!

[r0ck1r0ck2]

no no.. things seem a bit tense on GS so i'll just add..



hail satan y'all

[Sensater]

Originally Posted by myfipie

Any fabric you can blow through should be fine. I have seen costs from $2.00 per yard up to $12.00 per yard.. Go to a local fabric store and see what they have.

Glenn

I will be making some traps this weekend. How do I attach the burlap to the rigid fiberglass? Some sort of spray adhesive on the back? I don't want to interfere with the absorptive properties of the fiberglass. Staple gun? I don't really want to disturb the fiberglass like that, but I will if I have to. Is it rigid enough to hold a staple? And how would I hang these? I will likely build frames at some point but I really need to get some treatment in asap and for now I will just prop these up in the corners.

Glenn, Scott, and the others...thanks for all your posts, this has been a very informative and instructive thread!

-S

[Glenn Kuras]

Originally Posted by Sensater

I will be making some traps this weekend. How do I attach the burlap to the rigid fiberglass? Some sort of spray adhesive on the back? I don't want to interfere with the absorptive properties of the fiberglass. Staple gun? I don't really want to disturb the fiberglass like that, but I will if I have to. Is it rigid enough to hold a staple? And how would I hang these? I will likely build frames at some point but I really need to get some treatment in asap and for now I will just prop these up in the corners.

Glenn, Scott, and the others...thanks for all your posts, this has been a very informative and instructive thread!

-S

I guess you could just use the spray. Our stuff is not just a fabric wrapped panel, so I might not be the one to give you the best way to build it. BUT if you need help on where to put them, please ask away!! Problem I can see with just wrapping the panel or stuffing in a bag is it would sag over time and look really bad. If you are good at cutting wood I would make frames..

Glenn

[fcorl]

Originally Posted by Sensater

I will be making some traps this weekend. How do I attach the burlap to the rigid fiberglass? Some sort of spray adhesive on the back? I don't want to interfere with the absorptive properties of the fiberglass. Staple gun? I don't really want to disturb the fiberglass like that, but I will if I have to. Is it rigid enough to hold a staple? And how would I hang these? I will likely build frames at some point but I really need to get some treatment in asap and for now I will just prop these up in the corners.

Glenn, Scott, and the others...thanks for all your posts, this has been a very informative and instructive thread!

-S

I simply wrapped my burlap around the front and stretched it tight and sewed it up in back with string.

[Scott@RealTraps]

Originally Posted by fcorl

I simply wrapped my burlap around the front and stretched it tight and sewed it up in back with string.

Yep, I'd agree that's a good way to do it.

I would say, as a general rule for this kind of trap, it's probably better NOT to glue it, as you risk impeding the gas flow through the fibers if you use too much glue, or the wrong kind of glue, etc.

Also, to answer the other question asked above about stapling, 703 is not so rigid that you could staple something to it.

[Glenn Kuras]

Originally Posted by Scott@RealTraps

Yep, I'd agree that's a good way to do it.

I would say, as a general rule for this kind of trap, it's probably better NOT to glue it, as you risk impeding the gas flow through the fibers if you use too much glue, or the wrong kind of glue, etc.

Also, to answer the other question asked above about stapling, 703 is not so rigid that you could staple something to it.

I am sure if you nailed a full can of spray glue on the front it may hurt it, but a little bit will not and I would think that is all it would take.. But if nothing else the sewed idea is not to bad.

[A27Hull]

Originally Posted by Scott@RealTraps

Soundproofing and acoustic treatments are two completely separate things, and what works for one purpose doesn't necessarily work for the other purpose.

If you need isolation, I recommend that you spend some time reading the articles on soundproofing on the Green Glue company's site (http://www.greengluecompany.com/a-So...ofingTopic.php)

To understand some of the things I mentioned about regarding isolation, read up on decoupling and also on flanking noise (that will explain what I'm talking about with the attic). But seriously I would read all of the articles linked there if you want to learn about isolation for a studio.

Thank you for the response Scott!

The building is mostly just a shell already, just a hard exterior really. He's got the inside filled with junk, else-wise its just a frame inside. The walls, as they are, are basically standard stud frames with pink insulation and wood panel exteriors. The attic space opens up into the ground floor rooms.

I think that, given the state of the building, isolation would be impossible (as is).

So, I take from your explanation that the 4" mineral wool based walls (with out any rigid exterior covering) will fail to isolate the rooms from eachother. I am (as you say) wishing to make a connection between bass trap ideas and studio design. Thank you for pointing out this flaw.

I'll read up on the link you posted, it is much appreciated.

To take it in a different direction, if this was one room, and intended for mixing only, would the proposed ceiling design work (practically) for bass absorption on the vertical axis?

[A27Hull]

Mine aren't as pretty as Cojo' or the rest' but here they are.

I built these to fill a hole in a small mix room in my townhome.

These are very bulky and heavy too...I should've used smaller wood.

[A27Hull]

Here's where they were placed.

[neon]

Hi!
Ok so beside burlap which other fabric is good to cover the OC panels? I mean any fabric that is good and looks good and that you can buy at Joann fabrics for example,