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What do you think of this Bass trap design?
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Old 17th August 2012   #1
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What do you think of this Bass trap design?

These traps will go (almost) floor to ceiling in the corners I can see (front) from my monitoring position. There will be 2 on each sidewall/ceiling corner - 8 feet long (total wall length is 13 feet). There will be one that is 4 feet long top center of the front wall.

What do you think of this Bass trap design?-basstrap.jpg

There will be fabric stretched across the entire front and around the sides of the 3/4 plywood. The outside 1/4 will then be attached to that so I can screw it to the wall. The pinkish area is the solid top/bottom, but you can use the front line of that to imagine the line of fabric (except the fabric will cover the front of the 3/4 plywood).

The screws are 16" from the corner, and the 1/4 panel across the front is 20" wide. I can play with this dimension a bit, move the screws to 18" or so - as you can see I will have to trim the corners of the 15" rockwool at this dimension.

My thinking is that the 1/4 ply panel will act as a low freq. absorber, or transfer the energy, and the rockwool behind it will dampen it. I am also thinking that using a hard surface here would help to not over do the broadband (of which there will be (8) 2'x4' panels around the room).

I am not certain if the 1/4 ply is too much. Should I look for a thinner material? I'll need at least (4) 4'x8' sheets as is. I think these will look really good installed, I just want to make sure they are functional, too.

Someone told me I could further 'tune' these by cutting holes in the panel. Any truth to that? I know you can increase absorption on a broadband panel by cutting holes in the side of the frame. But this guy was talking bass traps. He had equations he said he could use to determine how much % of surface area should be removed to affect a particular freq. He said it was based on the Helmholz resonator... but I thought that had to have a tube with volume involved?

Thanks for any feedback.
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Old 17th August 2012   #2
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Velocity based vs. pressure based absorbers
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Old 17th August 2012   #3
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One trouble of this design is secure mounting. You can't just have screws on one side of the mass. Doing it the way you propose will result in a loose coupling which won't transfer as much force to the panel, as well as possibly vibrate against the wall at high SPL. There needs to be screws on both the inside and outside of the trap's furring. While it might seem unnecessary, consider imperfections of both the wall and the furring, where the amount of pressure on the surface is unequal along the length. Where it is loose the trap might vibrate against the wall, and gravity will lever around the screws which also causes less coupling on the inner side of the furring.
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Old 17th August 2012   #4
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Thanks for the link, and the installation shortcoming. I've been wracking my brain to come up with a solution to mount these in the corner. I'd love to be able to screw in from behind, but how? The only thing I can think of is to build the frame, install it, put in the insulation, cover a panel with fabric and attach that to the frame.

What do you think of this Bass trap design?-basstraprevised.jpg

Any better ideas?

From the linked thread & the links within that thread, it seems like I should consider doing away with the solid panel front, maybe using perforated panels or maybe just an open frame, and make the rear panel solid. Then tune for specific freq's along the walls. Did I get that right?
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Old 17th August 2012   #5
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4m x 5m x 2.5m room - modal resonance problem
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Old 17th August 2012   #6
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I don't think it is going to work how you think it will. For one something 100% tuned needs to be flat on the wall and 100% sealed. Also wood, IMO is no the best membrane to use for pressure traps (tuned traps). I have done a lot of testing and can say that if you do not understand pressure based trapping 100% then I would stick with velocity based (broad band). You can use FRK or thin card stock on the front of normal rigid fiberglass that will reflect upper frequencies and act as a membrane to absorb more low end.
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Old 17th August 2012   #7
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Your revised design is better. But Glenn is correct and if you really want a solid panel trap, do some research and read a few books. The design as it is now will work well as a perforated panel.
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Old 17th August 2012   #8
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Thanks, guys. Since this is my first experience with treatment of any kind I don't have any frame of reference as to its potential, other than people saying it is one of the most important things you can do.

With Jens' links, and sublinks conveniently referenced in this thread, I have a good amount of leads to read through this weekend.
What Glenn said is pretty much what I was afraid someone was going to say, which is good, and exactly why I posted.

Edit: Good to know, Opus.
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Old 18th August 2012   #9
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I have a question. If one were to switch the wood to a membrane, as Glenn said. Would putting another piece of 1" foam behind the main 3" piece with an air gap between the pieces of foam as well as between the small piece and the corner of the walls increase the LF absorption?

All of the literature that I have read on the subject has mentioned this, but I have never seen or heard of anyone doing this. Then again, I do not know much about the design of many of the products out there.

Last edited by DemonWithAHalo; 18th August 2012 at 06:06 PM.. Reason: Missed a crucial word.
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Old 19th August 2012   #10
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foudn the answer to that in another post.... this forum is huge.
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