Best way to mount bass trap with air gap? (What to use as spacer?)

[Lights]

Hey folks:

Building 4" thick bass trap panels with Knauf Ecose 703-equivalent fiberboard and a simple wood frame this weekend and would like pointers to the best hardware/spacers to mount them off the wall by 4" -- should we just put blocks of wood in the corners? Is there something better? These will NOT be mounted in the corners--flat on the side and back walls.

Thanks in advance!

[jimmys69]

Easiest way I found was to hang from the ceiling. Anchors and chain link.

And the panels are great for hanging headphones on. :D

[Lights]

I would prefer to not do that if I can avoid it. Although a cheap track mounting system might add some flexibility...?

[jimmys69]

I actually tried a curtain track for a corner absorber that has a door in the way. The track/hardware I bought was $50 for medium weight. I should have gone with the heavy duty version. Mostly because the size of the hardware I purchased, would not allow for a large enough anchors/mounting screws. The track idea would work if there was sufficient backing to mount to.

[Lights]

That's way too expensive. Each of these panels costs about $25-30 to make. Spending $50 to mount one or two sounds like spending my cash in the wrong place

[jimmys69]

Tell me about it! I was just trying to solve the problem with the door intrusion. Fail. Now I just lean it against the corner. lol

[Lights]

I have a door one foot from a corner that is critical to treat. Instead of a corner trap I am building two fabric-wrapped boxes to fill the gap behind the door that's 1ft x 3ft x 4ft filled with OC Ecotouch R30 insulation (they stack to the 8ft ceiling).

I'm doing several corners with this soffit-style trap. But I still need panels for several other locations and need to space them.

[mtbdudex]

I made this post in avsforum, this could work for you.
Mine were 2" thick so I spaced 2" air gap, however for 4" thick panels just adjust in accord.

Hanging 101 for DIY framed 2' x 4' acoustic panels:

I used alum "z" from ats acoustics, Acoustic Panel Installation Hardware


They were set 3" in from each frame edge to have invisible look and the frame sorta just float there.

Note:
Wall to frame spacer/holders were pre-made, pre-drilled (each then acts as its own drill jig for holes into the wall), and painted wall color prior.
Mine were 19" wide and 3 1/2 tall, and 1 1/2 inches thick, basically scrap stuff I had lying around.

Measure twice, use blue tape for visual markers, locate top holder, mine was a 1 1/2" thick piece so the panel would have 2" air gap.
Hold with hand, drill into drywall with 3" deck screw, mini-level assures level, Locate bottom holder, drill into drywall with 3" deck screw.



Remove, use drilled holes to locate the 50lb plastic dywall anchors------Re-attach top/bottom holders, using 3" deck screw.


If measurements done correctly slight tweaks to get level----


this shows 2" air gap

[Lights]

It looks like you actually achieved the spacing through 2" thick wood braces across the back, and not the specific mounting hardware, am I correct? The hardware itself doesn't look to provide more than a centimeter of spacing.

[mtbdudex]

Originally Posted by Lights

It looks like you actually achieved the spacing through 2" thick wood braces across the back, and not the specific mounting hardware, am I correct? The hardware itself doesn't look to provide more than a centimeter of spacing.

Yes, the 1 1/2" thick wood block on the wall + the 1/2" gap having the OC703 mounted centered in the pine board gave me 2" air gap.
The 3 point mounting z clip gave robust, non vibrating mount.

If I had the room for 4" thick panels and 4" air gap, I would have done that, but it constricts my HT space too much for walk around egress/etc.

Good luck with your project.

[Lights]

Thanks. I have some similar mounting hardware and I'll just have to use some wood spacers on the frame, similar to what your installation looked like, although since the traps will be lighter than t one you designed (less framing) I don't think I need to run a board all the way across. A couple of blocks of wood on the top for the mounting hardware and one in the center on the bottom just as a spacer should be sufficient attached to some molly anchors and screws.

[RJHollins]

another idea ...

use a 1x3 mounting piece ... to that you can add a wall hook.
Attach a chain to your panel.

then use PVC tube cut to 4" lengths, and place them between wall and panel.

[BriHar]

A twelve inch length of web belt (the kind you can buy by the yard - similar to car seat belt) fastened to the back of the panel (about 1/3rd from the top) using a metal strip or washers and screws. At the other end punch a hole and stamp a metal grommet. This will hang on a single hook in the wall (the heavy duty picture frame hanger are ideal as these distribute the stress between the nail or screw angled into the wall and the pressure against the wall by the length of the hook) .

Spacing provided by tubular foam insulation (the kind used for insulting pipes) about 3 inch diameter cut to required length (@ 6") and glued to the back of the panel at each of the four corners. A breadknife is perfect for cutting these foam tubes, and don't forget to remove the edge tape along the seam to close the gap.

[darkbuddha]

Am I being dense by thinking you could use picture hanging wire and hooks to hang the panel from the wall, with enough slack to allow you to put 2" (or thicker) thick wood block spacers (or door stoppers, or whatever) mounted to the back of the panel to space it out? That was my plan unless there's a good reason not to.

[BriHar]

That is exactly how I did mine!
I just mentioned using the belting as it would be stronger for heavier panels. My panels were quite light being 4 layers of rigid (600mm x 1200mm) fiberglass glued together (using spray contact adhesive) and mounted on a frame backing then covered in fabric. I hung them using picture hanging wire fastened to screw in eyelets. Two I hung as clouds using chain and larger hooks in the four corners of the frame.

[darkbuddha]

Excellent. And thanks for my new absorber build plan.