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| | #1 |
| Gear Head Joined: Jul 2010 Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 47
Thread Starter | Unfaced R-30 (Pink Fluffy) for Soffit
Would R-30 Owens Corning Pink Fluffy work for soffit bass traps? If I framed out with small lumber in the upper soffit's of my small room and layed in the fluffy, would that give some good trapping/absorption? Or should I double up the same soffit with 2 layers of fluffy to get better results? I've been reading some of the other threads regarding the fluffy @ 12 inches thick being a good/ample alternative to 4 inch compressed material. Thanks, Nate |
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| | #2 |
| Gear Head Joined: Jul 2010 Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 47
Thread Starter |
More specifically here's what I'd build... Rectagular/box soffits around the entire upper perimeter of the room. They'd measure 15in deep x 10in high. I'd fill the space with R-30 pink fluffy and cover with fabric. My room is small and the floor space is very limited. Room is 9x7x7 give or take an inch. |
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| | #3 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Athens, Ohio
Posts: 1,263
|
I guess it depends on what you are trying to achieve in your room. The r-30 does a really good job way down low. You can even 'squish' it a few inches and save yourself some space that way if you'd like. Have you decided those sofits around the ceiling are a good place for trapping a problem frequency? What is that frequency? It's best to know the problem you are having to resolve with a solution. Neil
__________________ My Recording Studio Build Thread: http://www.gearslutz.com/board/photo...hens-ohio.html Photobucket Page with TONS more studio photos: http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ding%20Studio/ www.myspace.com/amishelectricchair www.gcrecords.com |
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| | #4 |
| Gear Head Joined: Jul 2010 Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 47
Thread Starter |
I'm having issues in the low end (around 100hz area). I don't have any graphs to show this, since my REW test's have failed since I don't have the correct mic (the Radio Shack is useless I was informed), but I know that the common objective is to trap as much low end as possible in the corners...and the soffits are the best/free space for me to deal with this. And I've moved around the room and notice that the build up in the corners is pretty huge. |
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| | #5 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Athens, Ohio
Posts: 1,263
|
I'm glad that you have done a little bit of research into this before getting too into the construction. My advice is to get an accurate measurement of the room first, find the actual frequencies that are causing problems, and then while those frequencies are playing in the room, find the places where build up is most. If your worst problem is 100Hz, then you are lucky. My money says you have issues lower than that. Those will be much harder to control. If it turns out that 100hz is your biggest problem, then You'd be fine just using 4" of 703 or equivalent. 100 is easy. Take your time, and do it right. Get REW to work. Neil |
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| | #6 |
| Gear Head Joined: Jul 2010 Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 47
Thread Starter |
I retried the test with a small condenser mic. Here's my newest REW graph. First Measurement - REW Thanks for the help. |
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| | #7 |
| Gear Head Joined: Jul 2010 Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 47
Thread Starter |
I've decided to start building some soffit bass traps. I'm trying to catch as much of the 60hz area as I can. My room has it everywhere. My question: Would a 9x15 rectangular soffit trap equal the same as a 12x12 rectangular soffit trap. If the total amount of area is the important thing, than I've answered my own question. If it's more specific as far equal sides, than that is what I'm trying to understand. Maybe the more important question before I start building, will the r-30 pink fluffy @ 15wide x 9deep be sufficient at dealing with 60hz and a little below. I've read the 40hz go to hell thread and he was using and 18inch depth. Thanks for the continued help here, Nate |
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| | #8 |
| Gear nut |
Im actually curious about this aswell. I posted a thread on here about a week ago asking this same question but no answer. How come in this case you wouldnt do the triangluar shape? Why square? Also Amish, the studio build looks beyond sweet
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| | #9 |
| Lives for gear Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Athens, Ohio
Posts: 1,263
|
Thanks Cegor, The square shape does a couple things. For one, they look more like hvac sofits, and people are kinda used to those being in rooms all the time, so it looks more natural. Second, it allows you to double amount of material in the trap compared to the triangular shaped trap. The amount of material is important. In a square design that is 12"x12", you must realize that your trap is deeper than 12" to anything that enters at a non 90* angle to the face. Actually, your trap is close to 17" deep if measured across the corners, although only a narrow sliver is actually that deep. So, to answer the question, I wouldn't worry about making it square. It can be rectangular, triangle, round, whatever. There are different designs for different aesthetic requirements, ergonomics, acoustic needs, etc. A lot of times in DIY, it's just whatever the builder has lying around. You should do some positive damage to those low end rings, whichever size you decide on. Good luck! Neil |
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| | #10 | |
| Gear Guru Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 11,994
| Quote:
__________________ Glenn Kuras GIK Acoustics USA GIK Acoustics Europe 770 986 2789 (USA) +44 (0) 20 7558 8976 (UK) See the NEW Scopus Tuned Trap | |
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| | #11 |
| Gear nut Joined: Jan 2011 Location: In the mitten, US
Posts: 140
| Remember you're not really limited to one batt thickness! If you have 9" thick batts you would probably want to build something 12 to 16 inches thick and stack two batts for maximum effectiveness at the 60 Hz.
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