Small mixing room progress

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

Hi all, just throwin up some pics of my progress.
Comments are welcome......

[DanDan]

Great finishes. Come over here I have work for you!
An air gap behind the wall panels would greatly enhance their effect. A free lunch.
DD

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

Thanks Dan!

Originally I was going to make my wall panels 2 inch thick with a 2 inch gap behind em. I then decided to just put 4 inches of OC 703. Do you still think i should put a gap? i was hoping i wouldn't need to. but i'm sure I can figure out a way to make a gap. How much of a gap should I give them?

Thanks again.

Ron

[DanDan]

The 4 inch panel is slightly better than 2+2. If you have the space, a 4+4 is as good as 8. You could measure. If you have strong sideways mode it would be worth trying the gap. Your 4 inch will totally work for HF RFZ purposes though.
DD

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

sweet! Thanks for the help!

Peace!

Ron

[Glenn Kuras]

If anything else I would place it a few inches. But as Dan said you can space it up to 4" and be fine.

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

Quick question guys...

I have about 20 inches on each side of my door at the back of the room. Would it be useful to make QRD's in these spaces?

Basically 2 QRD's 20inches wide by 4 feet long...

Would this work? and if so how many wells per QRD? I'm thinking about 10 wells in each QRD...

Any help would be awesome.

Thanks in advance.

Ron

[Dange]

Are you designing for a certain ISD gap? (Intial Signal Delay gap) -Acoustics and Psychoacoustics Applied - Part 1: Listening room design | Audio DesignLine

The ISD is the basis of the concepts of LEDE and the RPG/RFZ control rooms.

The general idea is that you have a period of time after the direct signal arrives in which no early reflections are present (or at a significant level)

#

The ideal termination for the ISD is a diffuse sound field. Therefore if you've put absorbers at the early reflection points, ceiling, side walls etc, then the ISD terminating reflection is going to come from the rear wall. Therefore putting diffusers here is a good idea. In the graph above the ISD (sometimes ITD) terminating 'reflection' is the decaying reverberation tail.

But you can't have 10 wells in a QRD, needs to be a prime number of wells, 11? Have you seen QRDude? QRDude: Quadratic Residue Diffuser calculator

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

I don't know much about the science but maybe these details will help.

1) I have full ceiling coverage with 3 inch OC703 with a 3 inch gap above it.

2) I have 2 bass traps in the wall/wall corners at the front of the room.

3) I have floor/wall corner traps on the front wall and 1 bass trap on each floor/wall corners on the side walls.

4) I have two 4 inch panels on each of the side walls.

5) I have 36 inch polys in each corner of the back wall that are stuffed with r-19 fiber glass. Acting as a poly and a bass trap.

6) I have a 6 inch bass trap glued to my door at the back of the room.

7) My floor is tiles. (No Rug)

My room is 12 wide X 14 long X 8 feet high.


I used QRDude but I am unsure how to use it. I put a prime number of 11 and got these results.



Do I build to these specs or do I have to fill in the frequencies and stuff...

Sorry I'm just learning all of this.

Thanks for the help.

Ron

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

anybody?

[Dange]

You'd base which frequencies you want the diffuser to diffuse at on the size of your room. The dimensions of the room set at which frequecies sound behaves modally (room modes, areas of high and low sound pressure) and specularly (sound bouncing around like rays, i.e. reflections). There is also a transition region between these two states.

Someone with more experience needs to take this further.......what are your room dimensions?

Also have you done any response measurements, frequency or impulse/ETC responses? You need to start doing some of these if you're going to get serious about making your room a reflection controlled one. You are well on your way to doing this already, having absorbers on the side walls and ceiling. An ETC measurement will show if your absorbers are in the right place and working correctly. An ETC will give you a real world version of this:



Room EQ Wizard is free and will do these measurements. Other software is also available.....

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

200+ holes and I think I've had enough!




Heres my Bass traps


5.5 inches thick and 4 inches away from the wall

[4 the Max]

I can understand doing a few holes with a hole saw, but how did you do so many and also get them aligned so neatly?

After just finishing my Eldorado stone and brick veneer for an addition to my studio, I was thinking of using casing bead. It looks like Niles No. 66-X Expanded Flange Casing Bead, except that instead of the J bend, it's flat.

Corner Beads and Casing Beads

There's no need to drill holes because of the open wire lathe, the casing bead has pre-drilled holes. 2 of these could run parallel on a side and held together by whiteboard slats or 2x2 pcs at the corners.

[johndykstra]

Ronnie,

I think you are doing one helluva job sir!

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

Originally Posted by dykstraster@gmai

Ronnie,

I think you are doing one helluva job sir!

Thanks man! I wouldn't mind taking a shot at makin some of those polys you made. They are phenomenal! It must have taken you a while to make em...

[DanDan]

Great Work Ronnie. Some of the Pro quality (or better) DIY we see around here is an inspiration.
DD

[johndykstra]

Originally Posted by Ronnie LeBlanc

It must have taken you a while to make em...

in terms of time, MUCH more went into the planning, set-up, and trouble shooting. The thread would save anyone looking to do it a LOT of time.

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

Originally Posted by 4 the Max

I can understand doing a few holes with a hole saw, but how did you do so many and also get them aligned so neatly?

After just finishing my Eldorado stone and brick veneer for an addition to my studio, I was thinking of using casing bead. It looks like Niles No. 66-X Expanded Flange Casing Bead, except that instead of the J bend, it's flat.

Corner Beads and Casing Beads

There's no need to drill holes because of the open wire lathe, the casing bead has pre-drilled holes. 2 of these could run parallel on a side and held together by whiteboard slats or 2x2 pcs at the corners.

Hi max,

It took a lot of drilling with a holesaw. I had to draw two virticle lines at 1.5 inches from the edge on both edges and then horrizontal lines every 2.5 inches. And then I drilled a hole where the virtical & Horrizontal lines meet. A lot of drilling.

If done right your idea will work just fine.

Thanks for the kind words guys. I'm workin on my last 2 bass traps and last two absorbers. I'll post em asap...

Peace!

Ronnie

[nixoblivion]

very beautiful ronnie!

looking forward to seeing more!

[JSilver]

What do you think is better? A few big holes (first pics) or more smaller holes (second pics)?

[dainja]

I'm considering putting 2 inches of rigid fiberglass on my ceiling (a bit like you did). How did you end up covering your ceiling? (fabric?)

PS: Your traps look great!

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

Originally Posted by JSilver

What do you think is better? A few big holes (first pics) or more smaller holes (second pics)?

Hi JSilver!

Well I would say it depends on the thickness of your panel. I went with the small holes on the bastraps because it would allow for more absorption. You can put more holes this way. But either way it will work. The Black speaker fabric was 9$ per yard. I bought it at fabricville. Its really nice too. I used it on all my traps and absorbers... Good Luck!

I'm considering putting 2 inches of rigid fiberglass on my ceiling (a bit like you did). How did you end up covering your ceiling? (fabric?)

PS: Your traps look great!

Hi dainja,

I put a T-Bar ceiling and then added the 3" OC703. I then purchased some speaker fabric and then I ordered some "Earth Magnets". I used the magnets to hold up the fabric. If you go this route make sure you buy magnets that can hold 10 or so pounds and put them a few feet apart. I used roughly 80 magnets... It was hard to do alone, so have a friend help...

Hope this helps

Peace!

Ron

[dainja]

Wow - thanks!

I will probably do that with mine

[johndykstra]

Originally Posted by Ronnie LeBlanc

Hi JSilver!

I put a T-Bar ceiling and then added the 3" OC703. I then purchased some speaker fabric and then I ordered some "Earth Magnets". I used the magnets to hold up the fabric. If you go this route make sure you buy magnets that can hold 10 or so pounds and put them a few feet apart. I used roughly 80 magnets... It was hard to do alone, so have a friend help...

Hope this helps

Peace!

Ron

very clever solution!

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

Originally Posted by dykstraster@gmai

very clever solution!

Thank you!


Here is the last absorber for this room. Only two Bass traps left for the back wall!!!

Sorry about the dirty lense! lol, I can't seem to get it clean








Final touches









I was given a SONOTUBE! It was 12 feet long. 36 inch diameter. It a dang huge beast. I cut it in half and placed a polly in each corner of my back wall. I'm gonna ram as much R-19 Fiberglass in them as I can fit. After I have done that I'm gonna suspend each poly about 8 inches off the floor. If anyone has any input on this idea you are more than welcome to advise away. Constructively please. I'm not sure how I will put a finish on these polys but perhaps I could cover them with a fabric.

Here they are




I thought of painting them but i would have to plaster them and sand them after. It would work but if ever I had to move em and stuff they would probrably crack.

Peace!

Ron

[DanDan]

Hi Ronnie. I am not sure at all about that SonoTube idea. A loose fill of fibre is probably better than ramming it. But you are losing two very valuable corner absorption spots. SSC's are well proven, we have no idea what your plan will achieve. My sense though is that you are losing valuable bass trap.
DD

[johndykstra]

perhaps perforating the surface could gain more lf absorption.

it's my understanding that a poly scatterer is most effective with 1/3 of the circumference, rather than half.

JHBrandt is a big proponent of polys in corners. This is a question I would direct to him.

[johndykstra]

I would cover them with contact paper.

[Ronnie LeBlanc]

Originally Posted by DanDan

Hi Ronnie. I am not sure at all about that SonoTube idea. A loose fill of fibre is probably better than ramming it. But you are losing two very valuable corner absorption spots. SSC's are well proven, we have no idea what your plan will achieve. My sense though is that you are losing valuable bass trap.
DD

Hi DD!

I see.. makes sense. I thought by stuffing them they would become bass traps as well, dang! lol... So I'd be better off just putting bass traps in those corners eh? I figured the polys would give me back some of the life in the room. Once I added them it did just that. It was dead in there. But the more I read stuff the more I feel like going totally dead. Theres a theory on this right? I forget what its called but I think it is some sort off "Dead Room" thing . I actually liked my old room cause the room was dead and I felt there was no anomalies and that I was getting direct sound from my monitors. Any thoughts on that? I don't mind dead. I have a bigger room for livelier stuff. This room is only 12ft x 14ft x 8ft.
I know I know! its not a worthy room lol...

dykstraster

Hi man!

everything you said above is awesome advice! I'll be doing that with them for sure. If they don't compliment the feel of the room, I'll use em somewhere else.
Thanks for the advice!

Peace!

Ron