super-duperchunks and hanging wall

DaVinci · 30th March 2010

haha stupid thread title, but just wondering... everything I've seen on here about superchunks shows them being used in corners filling vertically from floor upwards...

If they truly are superior at lf, what about using them to fill in the ceiling to wall corners as well?

For instance, I was about to run a 2 foot by 10'7" 4"thick trap all along the front wall where it meets the ceiling at a 45degree angle, but if the superchunk is better along where the backwalls meet, wouldn't it also be better where the front wall meets the ceiling... and where the backwall meets the ceiling, etc...

I'm getting a good deal on the 4lb mineral wool, so... is it really better to have bass trap with big triangular gap behind it along all those surfaces? Or would all those places benefit from supertrap treatment?

Also... looking at hardware today to hang broadband traps a few inches from back wall, and I was thinking... since most of wall will be covered with these hanging traps... what about connecting them all together so the whole wall hangs as one... suspended from the ceiling... wouldn't that caus greater dispersion since the energy at any one point would be transferred through an entire wall of mineral wool... all of which is still completely detatched from the back wall... wouldn't that be better than attatching individual traps to the wall?

Bubbagump · 30th March 2010

If you can swing the build hassle and cost of super chunk style traps in the ceiling/wall corners go for it. You may want to search for "soffit" traps on here. I remember seeing someone doing a similar thing with soffits and fluffy fiber glass.

The reason gaps are typically used are to optimize effectiveness with a limited amount of material. If material cost is no object, then forget gaps and make the traps ridiculously thick. However, you are limited to how effective a deep trap is by the material's density. The deeper the trap, the less dense the material should be.

I took a sort of "half way" approach with my room as I put up 4" traps in the wall/ceiling corner, but back filled that with fluffy insulation to get some more low end extension while trying to keep costs under control.

As for your great wall of traps, they don't all resonate together like a giant drum head if that is what you are asking. So long as the treated surface area is equivalent, there is no reason I know of to join them into a single sheet of sorts... assuming I am understanding that correctly. I wouldn't agonize over say a 1/4" gap between traps versus absolutely joined at the edges.

DaVinci · 31st March 2010

didn't think it would be a big difference... just thinking of, say, the way kevlar works... dispersion over large area... that's all. I understand difference would be minimal either way.

As for superchunks... yeah, my other consideration was backfill with other material, but Id like to avoid fiberglass.

Still trying to figure max size for superchunks I can get away with. It will either be 17x17x24 or 24x24x34... re arranging stuff right now to see if I can do the bigger, but doubt it... in either case, the four lb stuff would be appropriate, tho... unless I'm missing something.

30th March 2010	#1
DaVinci Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 1,538 Thread Starter	super-duperchunks and hanging wall haha stupid thread title, but just wondering... everything I've seen on here about superchunks shows them being used in corners filling vertically from floor upwards... If they truly are superior at lf, what about using them to fill in the ceiling to wall corners as well? For instance, I was about to run a 2 foot by 10'7" 4"thick trap all along the front wall where it meets the ceiling at a 45degree angle, but if the superchunk is better along where the backwalls meet, wouldn't it also be better where the front wall meets the ceiling... and where the backwall meets the ceiling, etc... I'm getting a good deal on the 4lb mineral wool, so... is it really better to have bass trap with big triangular gap behind it along all those surfaces? Or would all those places benefit from supertrap treatment? Also... looking at hardware today to hang broadband traps a few inches from back wall, and I was thinking... since most of wall will be covered with these hanging traps... what about connecting them all together so the whole wall hangs as one... suspended from the ceiling... wouldn't that caus greater dispersion since the energy at any one point would be transferred through an entire wall of mineral wool... all of which is still completely detatched from the back wall... wouldn't that be better than attatching individual traps to the wall?

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30th March 2010	#2
Bubbagump Gear addict Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 445	If you can swing the build hassle and cost of super chunk style traps in the ceiling/wall corners go for it. You may want to search for "soffit" traps on here. I remember seeing someone doing a similar thing with soffits and fluffy fiber glass. The reason gaps are typically used are to optimize effectiveness with a limited amount of material. If material cost is no object, then forget gaps and make the traps ridiculously thick. However, you are limited to how effective a deep trap is by the material's density. The deeper the trap, the less dense the material should be. I took a sort of "half way" approach with my room as I put up 4" traps in the wall/ceiling corner, but back filled that with fluffy insulation to get some more low end extension while trying to keep costs under control. As for your great wall of traps, they don't all resonate together like a giant drum head if that is what you are asking. So long as the treated surface area is equivalent, there is no reason I know of to join them into a single sheet of sorts... assuming I am understanding that correctly. I wouldn't agonize over say a 1/4" gap between traps versus absolutely joined at the edges.

31st March 2010	#3
DaVinci Lives for gear Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 1,538 Thread Starter	didn't think it would be a big difference... just thinking of, say, the way kevlar works... dispersion over large area... that's all. I understand difference would be minimal either way. As for superchunks... yeah, my other consideration was backfill with other material, but Id like to avoid fiberglass. Still trying to figure max size for superchunks I can get away with. It will either be 17x17x24 or 24x24x34... re arranging stuff right now to see if I can do the bigger, but doubt it... in either case, the four lb stuff would be appropriate, tho... unless I'm missing something.