Bass trap a 9V

[layez]

That's right. My room is shaped like a 9 volt battery. Like many of us around here, we use what is at our disposal. Since it is all I have, any input on how to maximize the utility of this awkward space would be much appreciated.

Here is what she looks like:



Aint she a beauty? The real anomaly is that the ceiling slants from 7' 7" on the left wall to 6' 7" at the right wall. This row house was built right after the Civil War, and used to house immigrants working at a clipper mill across the street. If they could have only foreseen the artistic necessity of my room 100+ years later they would not have built the room like this .

Bass trapping is first and foremost: I plan on sticking rockwool or 703 everywhere this weekend. The "9 volt" portion of the back wall is stumping me. The green thing is the door, so I am thinking that i might have to build a stand to slide bass traps there after the door is closed. Suggestions for the back part to fill in those 15" gaps?

Also, I dont really know what to make of the ceiling or what to do about it. I thought of making a a cloud over the monitors but am not really sure what to do without negatively altering the stereo imaging. I have my A7's about 18" off the back wall on some mopads. Any input here would also be very much appreciated.

[Ethan Winer]

Treat the left back corner as usual, then either have a trap on a stand as you suggest or put one trap on the door and another on the wall. This way you at least have TWO traps NEAR the corner. Space those off the wall a few inches and it will be great. Photo below.

--Ethan

[layez]

Thanks a lot Ethan. Hopefully my 2 cats will have the manners your cat has when I install my traps

[Glenn Kuras]

The green thing is the door, so I am thinking that i might have to build a stand to slide bass traps there after the door is closed. Suggestions for the back part to fill in those 15" gaps?

I myself would go with stands.

Also, I dont really know what to make of the ceiling or what to do about it. I thought of making a a cloud over the monitors but am not really sure what to do without negatively altering the stereo imaging.

The cloud will help the stereo imaging.

[Weasel9992]

At least the uneven back wall works in your favor.

Frank

[Ethan Winer]

Originally Posted by Glenn Kuras

I myself would go with stands.

I like stands too because then you can straddle the corner. But if the door is used constantly, picking up a heavy trap and stand gets old very quick.

--Ethan

[Glenn Kuras]

Originally Posted by Ethan Winer

I like stands too because then you can straddle the corner. But if the door is used constantly, picking up a heavy trap and stand gets old very quick.

--Ethan

BUT with the stand you can use it for other things when recording.

[Ethan Winer]

Yep.

[layez]

I am wondering if I should be using FRK 703 since my room is pretty small?

[layez]

I finished my first 4 traps! These things are labor intensive - much more than I thought. I know for sure that the room tightened up and I like the initial results. I do not have an SDC (yet) to provide accurate measurements, but could you estimate how many traps it will take to tame a room the size of mine? I saw Frank has around 20 in his room.

[jwl]

The more you add, the flatter the room will get. Generally I'd say 8 traps are a minimum, with many more even better.

[layez]

8 more 4" traps or 2" traps? i guess i should be buying the FRK before i deaden the room.

[Glenn Kuras]

Originally Posted by layez

8 more 4" traps or 2" traps? i guess i should be buying the FRK before i deaden the room.

There really is not a good number. The real number is what makes your mixes translate well. But 4 to 8 4" panels in the corners is a good start depending on the room. As far as 2" panels you want to cover the early reflection points What Are Early Reflection Points. SPOTLIGHT:Bob Ebeling - Revolution Studio and any flutter echo in the back of the room on the side walls. If you think the room is going to absorb to much high end with the panels on the back side walls then go with diffusion. Oh and don't forget about the back wall. THICK ABSORPTION back there (I like 6").

[bpape]

While you have the room oriented as normally recommended, the ceiling slanting unevenly from side to side is going to cause you problems IMO. I'd turn to face the lower of the ceiling ends and straddle bass panels to cover the wall/high ceiling end.

The room isn't significantly different length and width and I think this would give you more benefit. You'll also want a couple of pretty thick panels on the wall behind the seated mix position.

Bryan

[layez]

There really is not a good number. The real number is what makes your mixes translate well. But 4 to 8 4" panels in the corners is a good start depending on the room. As far as 2" panels you want to cover the early reflection points What Are Early Reflection Points. SPOTLIGHT:Bob Ebeling - Revolution Studio and any flutter echo in the back of the room on the side walls. If you think the room is going to absorb to much high end with the panels on the back side walls then go with diffusion. Oh and don't forget about the back wall. THICK ABSORPTION back there (I like 6").

Thanks Glenn, I was reading that article yesterday. I have 4" traps in each corner - you recommend 6" in the back corners?

While you have the room oriented as normally recommended, the ceiling slanting unevenly from side to side is going to cause you problems IMO. I'd turn to face the lower of the ceiling ends and straddle bass panels to cover the wall/high ceiling end.

Im not sure I follow - but I think you mean trying to make the ceiling level above the mix position?

[Glenn Kuras]

Thanks Glenn, I was reading that article yesterday. I have 4" traps in each corner - you recommend 6" in the back corners?

I like 6" in every corner if you can swing it.

[bpape]

Yes. You'd like to have the ceiling symmetric left to right in the room as you're oriented. As long as you're doing it, you also face the lower ceiling. This allows reflections to be pushed behind you much like splayed walls will do.

The bass control at the higher portion of the ceiling will also then be symmetric left to right and give you a good chunk in the rear.

Bryan

[layez]

I was playing looping a drum part yesterday, walking around the room and listening to the kick drum, and i noticed in the back corner with the lower side of the ceiling had the sub range of bass frequencies piled up back there. I wonder if thats because of the slant?

Looks like i'll need a good bit more trapping

[Glenn Kuras]

Originally Posted by layez

I was playing looping a drum part yesterday, walking around the room and listening to the kick drum, and i noticed in the back corner with the lower side of the ceiling had the sub range of bass frequencies piled up back there. I wonder if thats because of the slant?

Looks like i'll need a good bit more trapping

Hard to say but put traps there.

[layez]

Originally Posted by Glenn Kuras

Hard to say but put traps there.

Wow that was some poor english in my last post. I cant believe you could even read that Glenn you are truly a master!!

I was just trying to indicate how much the sub 100 range had magically accumulated into the corner. It was a very strange and eye opening experience.

[layez]

will it be alright to put two traps in the corner where all those sub frequencies are, though the other corners have 1? I felt like I read somewhere that bass trapping should be symmetrical.

[Ethan Winer]

Low bass is non-directional, so symmetry is not totally required. But I'd still aim for symmetrical placement. The best solution is to have more traps, rather than take some away from another place.

--Ethan