4" Thick Bass Traps vs. 6"... and how far from the wall..

Umlaaat · 22nd May 2008

ok.. i've spent like 3 days reading Cojos building thread (good job, man..) and i'm a bit curious to the differences btw a 4" bass trap and 6".. What i've gathered so far is the 6" is better, but I want to know how much better, real world application-wise.

And how far should they be from the wall after you built them...?

Do you leave an air space when making bass traps?

Is there a difference from having it got from floor to ceiling or is it better to leave it as 4 feet?

Umlaaat · 22nd May 2008

so upon FURTHER reading, i'm finding out the difference btw 4" and 6" using OC 703 is (according to bob golds data), negligible... Its actually better...

703, plain 4" (102mm) on wall 3.0 pcf (48 kg/m3) 0.84 1.24 1.24 1.08 1.00 0.97 1.15
705, plain 4" (102mm) on wall 6.0 pcf (96 kg/m3) 0.75 1.19 1.17 1.05 0.97 0.98 1.10

But what about the space from the wall.. Is 2" ok for a 4" thick trap?

jwl · 22nd May 2008

Umlaut, those specs are both for 4" panels, with one made from 703 and one made from 705.

6" panels will have better performance at lower frequencies, all else being equal. However, bass trapping is also about coverage area, so if you have a certain amount of material you're better off covering more corners with 4" panels. If you still have material left after all the corners are covered and you have your RFZ, then you can start making the bass traps thicker.

As far as spacing, a good rule of thumb is to have the space be the same as the panel thickness, ie, 4" panel 4" from wall, 6" panel 6" from wall.

Glenn Kuras · 22nd May 2008

Quote:

6" panels will have better performance at lower frequencies, all else being equal.

Just to clarify, it gives you more sabins (better performance) on all frequencies if they are made with the sides open. Part of the reason our Monster trap (6") out proformas our GIK 244 (4") so well. Every thing else you said though I totally agree with. thumbsupthumbsup

Glenn

bpape · 23rd May 2008

If you're going to have them mounted flat parallel with a surface like on the rear wall of the room, then you can gap them up to 6" (assuming 6" thick panels). It's diminishing returns to have more gap than absorbtion (2" go to 2" gap, 4", go up to 4", etc.)

Corner mounting builds in the gap so to speak when you straddle it. You get a variable depth cavity.

Bryan

Jason West · 23rd May 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glenn Kuras

...if they are made with the sides open. Part of the reason our Monster trap (6") out proformas our GIK 244 (4") so well.

Are the sides still open if the Monster trap has the optional wood frame like your photo shows? The photo is a little small so I can't see if there's holes in the side of the wood.

Glenn Kuras · 23rd May 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason West

Are the sides still open if the Monster trap has the optional wood frame like your photo shows? The photo is a little small so I can't see if there's holes in the side of the wood.

That picture is the GIK 242 elite (wood frame) with a wood stand. The Monster would have the wood stand but the sides would be open.

Glenn

erich · 23rd May 2008

whats the best way to space a homemade bass trap intended to hang from a wall? i can think of a couple ways, like cutting the wood with a couple "legs" on the back of it or hanging it from the ceiling an appropriate distance from the wall, but i'd like to hear if anyone has any better, simpler suggestions.

Glenn Kuras · 24th May 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by erich

whats the best way to space a homemade bass trap intended to hang from a wall? i can think of a couple ways, like cutting the wood with a couple "legs" on the back of it or hanging it from the ceiling an appropriate distance from the wall, but i'd like to hear if anyone has any better, simpler suggestions.

If you are hanging it like a picture you could cut a piece of PVC pipe to 4" and slip that between the panel and the wall. I like your idea of making little legs for the back though. Maybe a stopper for a door would work the same.

Glenn

erich · 24th May 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glenn Kuras

Maybe a stopper for a door would work the same.

Glenn

thats a great, great idea. not sure how the pvc would work; maybe i'd just need to see it.

time to go wander around the hardware store and see what develops. what about the walls themselves? i worry about supporting that much weight.

Glenn Kuras · 25th May 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by erich

t what about the walls themselves? i worry about supporting that much weight.

Welcome To OOK's!!! the pro picture hangers. Can be found at any major hardware chain.

Glenn

erich · 4th June 2008

i actually came up with a solution that im really psyched about. as soon as i can get someone with a camera over, i'll post up some pictures of my space.

22nd May 2008	#1
Umlaaat Lives for gear Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 1,107 Thread Starter	4" Thick Bass Traps vs. 6"... and how far from the wall.. ok.. i've spent like 3 days reading Cojos building thread (good job, man..) and i'm a bit curious to the differences btw a 4" bass trap and 6".. What i've gathered so far is the 6" is better, but I want to know how much better, real world application-wise. And how far should they be from the wall after you built them...? Do you leave an air space when making bass traps? Is there a difference from having it got from floor to ceiling or is it better to leave it as 4 feet?

22nd May 2008	#3
jwl Lives for gear Joined: Jul 2006 Location: southern Maine Posts: 1,309	Umlaut, those specs are both for 4" panels, with one made from 703 and one made from 705. 6" panels will have better performance at lower frequencies, all else being equal. However, bass trapping is also about coverage area, so if you have a certain amount of material you're better off covering more corners with 4" panels. If you still have material left after all the corners are covered and you have your RFZ, then you can start making the bass traps thicker. As far as spacing, a good rule of thumb is to have the space be the same as the panel thickness, ie, 4" panel 4" from wall, 6" panel 6" from wall. __________________ The acoustic treatment experts

23rd May 2008	#5
bpape Lives for gear Joined: Jul 2005 Location: St. Louis(Wildwood), MO Posts: 764	If you're going to have them mounted flat parallel with a surface like on the rear wall of the room, then you can gap them up to 6" (assuming 6" thick panels). It's diminishing returns to have more gap than absorbtion (2" go to 2" gap, 4", go up to 4", etc.) Corner mounting builds in the gap so to speak when you straddle it. You get a variable depth cavity. Bryan __________________ I am serious, and don't call me Shirley Bryan Pape Lead Acoustical Designer GIK Acoustics

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23rd May 2008	#8
erich Gear nut Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 86	whats the best way to space a homemade bass trap intended to hang from a wall? i can think of a couple ways, like cutting the wood with a couple "legs" on the back of it or hanging it from the ceiling an appropriate distance from the wall, but i'd like to hear if anyone has any better, simpler suggestions.

4th June 2008	#12
erich Gear nut Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 86	i actually came up with a solution that im really psyched about. as soon as i can get someone with a camera over, i'll post up some pictures of my space.