15th May 2008
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#1 | | Gear addict
Joined: Sep 2007 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 386
Thread Starter | How I built MY bass traps...
Thanks to everyone for the help during this! I built 6 Traps (so far) and I couldn't be happier with them!
Here are the materials for 2 corner traps.
One frame put together, the other being assembled.
Both frames put together.
Chicken Wire.
Stuffed with R-30.
Wrapped with Fabric, 2 Corner Traps Finished.
Materials for 2x4 panels. |
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15th May 2008
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#2 | | Gear addict
Joined: Sep 2007 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 386
Thread Starter |
All wood cut for panels.
All panels built!
Fiberglass in one.
2 panels wrapped.
Method I used to hang them.
Pannels and corner traps hung!!! |
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15th May 2008
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#3 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Oct 2007 Location: Houston
Posts: 855
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Sweet. What did you use to fasten the fabric? I'd suggest stapling the fabric a little tighter and folding the loose ends over the back. It helps to keep a cleaner appearance. Welcome to the R-30 club!!!
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15th May 2008
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#4 | | Gear addict
Joined: Sep 2007 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 386
Thread Starter |
Thanks, I stapled it to the frame. May need to redo some like you said. But the R-30 works fantastic! It's like a no-brainer, it's cheap, and incredibly useful.
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15th May 2008
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#5 | | Gear Guru
Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 14,275
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Great job sir!!!
Glenn
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15th May 2008
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#6 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Nov 2007 Location: Sydney
Posts: 747
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Great job!
One suggestion is to use plenty of cable ties to hang to fixings on the wall to keep the traps suspended from the wall a little padding.
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15th May 2008
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#7 | | Gear addict
Joined: May 2008 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 477
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This is my first post in gearslutz, after reading the forums for a while 
I was gonna build some bass traps this weekend, almost exactly the same way, except I didn't even plan to use chickenwire, but just use burlap and staple it really tight.
On your 2x4 panels, do you have enough strength in the middle, or should I maybe add 1 or 2 boards for additional support (so the 4' boards don't get pulled to the inside too much) ?
Peter
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15th May 2008
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#8 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Oct 2007 Location: Houston
Posts: 855
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I didn't use chicken wire on mine. The only one that sagged was the one I hung horizontally. It was more from the placement of the screws and wire than from the frame. It's such a negligible sag that I didn't bother fixing it. acdctom92: how did the chicken wire look under the fabric? Did it show through?
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15th May 2008
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#9 | | Gear addict
Joined: Sep 2007 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 386
Thread Starter |
Thanks everyone! I also forgot to add this whole project cost me roughly 175$. I had originally planned to buy the GIK room kit, but I wouldn't have been able to get that for another 4 months due to budget limits, so I had to go the DIY route. Quote:
Originally Posted by peteblues This is my first post in gearslutz, after reading the forums for a while 
I was gonna build some bass traps this weekend, almost exactly the same way, except I didn't even plan to use chickenwire, but just use burlap and staple it really tight.
On your 2x4 panels, do you have enough strength in the middle, or should I maybe add 1 or 2 boards for additional support (so the 4' boards don't get pulled to the inside too much) ?
Peter | You dont NEED wood in the middle to support it. The wood I used was actually quite strong, and I don't the fabric would actuallly cause the wood to bend in noticeably. Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarwes I didn't use chicken wire on mine. The only one that sagged was the one I hung horizontally. It was more from the placement of the screws and wire than from the frame. It's such a negligible sag that I didn't bother fixing it. acdctom92: how did the chicken wire look under the fabric? Did it show through? | Some parts of the chicken wire(the parts that were originally sticking out of the frame where I tied both ends of the wire together) stuck out. The fabric did it's best to pull it into the trap, but it's still sticking out very mildly.
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18th May 2008
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#10 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Apr 2007 Location: Eastern Ozarks
Posts: 4,320
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How tight did you stuff the fiberglass? I mean, did you just push it in until the frame was full or really pack it down?
To you gurus, how would loose cellulose insulation work in a frame like this? It's cheap and easier on the lungs (and environment, I suppose) Any reason not to build frames to fit floor to ceiling with a 2' front, line them with cheap fabric, and shovel them full?
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Last edited by Old Goat; 18th May 2008 at 02:44 AM..
Reason: add question
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18th May 2008
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#11 | | Gear addict
Joined: Nov 2006 Location: Taichung, Taiwan
Posts: 462
| rockwool
If you use rigid rockwool you dont have to worry about chicken wire or extra supports. Just sandwich it in there and you're good to go. I used 100kg/m3-so easy.
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19th May 2008
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#12 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Oct 2007 Location: Houston
Posts: 855
| Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Goat How tight did you stuff the fiberglass? I mean, did you just push it in until the frame was full or really pack it down?
To you gurus, how would loose cellulose insulation work in a frame like this? It's cheap and easier on the lungs (and environment, I suppose) Any reason not to build frames to fit floor to ceiling with a 2' front, line them with cheap fabric, and shovel them full? |
If the frame is the right size, the sheet should plop right in and the tight upholstery would vertically compress it.
As for cellulose, I dunno... check the Bob Gold's page for that info. Probably the Ultratouch stuff would be better. The fiberglass isn't too bad, especially with the Pink brand. I have bad allergies and have more breathing trouble from a dusty house than a cramped studio filled with fiberglass.
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19th May 2008
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#13 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Apr 2007 Location: Eastern Ozarks
Posts: 4,320
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Originally Posted by guitarwes If the frame is the right size, the sheet should plop right in and the tight upholstery would vertically compress it.
As for cellulose, I dunno... check the Bob Gold's page for that info. Probably the Ultratouch stuff would be better. The fiberglass isn't too bad, especially with the Pink brand. I have bad allergies and have more breathing trouble from a dusty house than a cramped studio filled with fiberglass. | Thanks, but the OP has triangle frames filled with R-30. I just wondered if the cellulose would be as good.
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20th May 2008
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#14 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Oct 2007 Location: Houston
Posts: 855
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Originally Posted by Old Goat Thanks, but the OP has triangle frames filled with R-30. I just wondered if the cellulose would be as good. | Ah, yeah for the triangle frames, I think we both did the same thing... jam 2 sheets of R-30 in until it fit!!
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20th May 2008
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#15 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Apr 2007 Location: Eastern Ozarks
Posts: 4,320
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My thought after reading the gas-transmission thread is that fluffier is better in the filled corner traps. Does that sound right?
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20th May 2008
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#16 | | Lives for gear
Joined: May 2004 Location: Hamilton, On Canada
Posts: 4,448
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Originally Posted by Old Goat My thought after reading the gas-transmission thread is that fluffier is better in the filled corner traps. Does that sound right? | Yes it is right.
Andre
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23rd May 2008
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#17 | | Lives for gear
Joined: Apr 2007 Location: Eastern Ozarks
Posts: 4,320
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Thanks. |
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25th May 2008
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#18 | | Gear addict
Joined: Jan 2008 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 329
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I'm in the process of building a new booth, and I am really liking those corner trap. I am actually thinking about building them into the corners as I construct the booth... |
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25th May 2008
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#19 | | Gear addict
Joined: Sep 2007 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 386
Thread Starter | Quote:
Originally Posted by bino_5150 I'm in the process of building a new booth, and I am really liking those corner trap. I am actually thinking about building them into the corners as I construct the booth...  | Thanks! They were SUPER cheap and SUPER easy. Need any tips you know who to ask!
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