another bass trap build.

[giraffe]

well, broad band traps really.

what's new here, well........ not a lot really it's well trodden ground but i think this design has a few advantages of others that i've personally seen.

the sides of the 703 (or whatever you use) are exposed, so that you get slightly more absorption for your buck then if you use closed side trap design.

there is very little wood needed for the frame, so they are light and cheap to make, but they are still plenty sturdy.
there is a cavity in back of the trap, extending the low end response slightly.
ultimately, it's just a combo of a few things i've seen.


simple.
take a bunch of 1X2 's and cut them 4 ft long (or eight) and some more cut to be 1ft 10.5 inches (better to be a little small here then big)

take some 2X4 's and cut squares. (actually 3.5 X 3.5)
pre-drill small holes in the 1X2's then attach them to the (3.5X3.5) squares. with dry wall screws, or whatever. (see pict)
if i makes you feel better, throw a couple small finish nails in there too.
i did, but it's probably not nessessary but i did. i also pre drilled these holes cause i'm anal like that. (and the wood is so small)
here's a 8 ft one.

then


lay your insulation on this frame (what i'm useing here is some stuff i got at a yard sale for 50 cents a piece. i'm not sure exactly what it is but my room already has a bunch of trapping, and i figured more couldn't hurt, whatever it may be)

then take some large (are they called lag?) screws, put a washer on them and poke them through the insulation and screw them into the squares underneath at the corners.
you may want bigger washers then i used, but i'm not sure that it's necessary

close up of the center of the 8 ft trap


then......


lay your trap on your thrift store material and start stapling it to the back of the frame.


i didn't cover the back of my traps, but you can if you want.
then...


(i'm using 4" on all these by the way)
this trap is currently hanging in the wall celling corner behind the mix position.
another nice thing about these is that you can screw hangers into the squares (very sturdy), or just hang the trap off the 1X2 frame from some screws or something.

hope you like.
(and hope i don't exceed my photobucket bandwidth)

-me

[giraffe]

hmmmmmm, maybe i can get those picts to show.........

[giraffe]

well, guess i'm not savvy enough to get those picts to show up.

hope you don't mind the click through.

[Ethan Winer]

Originally Posted by giraffe

hope you like.
(and hope i don't exceed my photobucket bandwidth)

Nice job! And I only clicked each link once.

--Ethan

[jwl]

Good DIY solution. I like how the frame design means that the absorptive material is spaced from the wall (if mounted flush). That's a good design and will yield better results.

[Glenn Kuras]

Originally Posted by giraffe

well, guess i'm not savvy enough to get those picts to show up.

hope you don't mind the click through.

Great job on the traps.

If you have some more left I bet that stuff would work well if cut into triangles and stacked floor to ceiling. You can then build a fabric wall in front of it.

BTW the "low end forum" does not let you post pictures only attach them as a file.

Glenn

[giraffe]

thanks a lot guys!!!

[giraffe]

hey look, i just bumped my own old thread. just because i could.


and these traps are still looking good.

[btroberts]

I like these. My ceiling is a few inches shy of 8ft so I'd need to make it slightly less tall, which rockwool slabs would be best for cutting neatly?

Thanks

[johndykstra]

Right on. Consider this next time:



roughly the same concept, but I used a cheap fabric between the frame and insulation. Not only are you fully wrapped for particle reasons, but you could then ditch the lag bolts and corner bracing.

Traps drawn show 2" thick fiber, but clearly, you can make this any depth you want... so long as it doesn't get so deep the fabric can't support the weight of the fiber anymore.

[giraffe]

i have some with no blocking. that's why my newer ones have blocking.
it's a design entirely about practically. it's not the prettiest one, admittedly.

though it wouldn't insult me if the backs were enclosed, in the end i just said f*&k it, i don't care that much, and they never move.

[giraffe]

Originally Posted by btroberts

I like these. My ceiling is a few inches shy of 8ft so I'd need to make it slightly less tall, which rockwool slabs would be best for cutting neatly?

Thanks

cutting the stuff sucks. there's no real good solution....
use gloves, and wear a mask when you do it.
get one of those cheap razor knives you can extend like 4inches.
someone, or many someones will have more experience then me....

[recordinghopkins]

Originally Posted by giraffe

cutting the stuff sucks. there's no real good solution....
use gloves, and wear a mask when you do it.
get one of those cheap razor knives you can extend like 4inches.
someone, or many someones will have more experience then me....

Just use a long, sharp, straight edged (not serrated) kitchen knife and run it over the sharpener a couple of times between cuts. It has a great handle, and it'll go right through with very little tearing and few airborn particles. Watch out for occasional rock slag in the middle of rockwool if you care about the knife. It's no big deal, just stop to pull it out if you hit something with your knife.

[btroberts]

Record> Thanks for that, luckily I do have aknife sharpner handy! What about the forms of rockwool, are they different to cut, some more suitable?eg RWA45 RW3 etc?

Thanks

[johndykstra]

base the density of rockwool you choose on how deep your traps will be, not how easy it is to cut.

Oh, and I used a carpenter's saw to cut mine. Worked really good.

[SAC]

As John stated, the material is easily cut with a saw, an serrated bread knife, a hacksaw...(the latter 2 can be picked up at WalMart for less than $6!)

And you can use just about any straight edge for a guide - if you need it.

Just find a comfortable place to do the cutting outdoors.

For all those still sitting on the fence obsessing over whether they can manage such a 'complex' construction project:

I really think that far too many folks are over-thinking these panels and convincing themselves that their manufacture is prohibitively difficult - when in fact there are few DIY projects that are simpler.

[giraffe]

Originally Posted by recordinghopkins

Just use a long, sharp, straight edged (not serrated) kitchen knife and run it over the sharpener a couple of times between cuts. It has a great handle, and it'll go right through with very little tearing and few airborn particles. Watch out for occasional rock slag in the middle of rockwool if you care about the knife. It's no big deal, just stop to pull it out if you hit something with your knife.

yea, actually i've never had to cut rockwool, all my traps are oc703 equivalent/ fiberglass stuff.

[takman]

Originally Posted by giraffe

cutting the stuff sucks. there's no real good solution....
use gloves, and wear a mask when you do it.
get one of those cheap razor knives you can extend like 4inches.
someone, or many someones will have more experience then me....

[SAC]

Everything is so melodramatic here.

Cutting fiberglass or rockwool is a very routine and simple process.

Use a sharp cheap knife.

A double sided razor carpet knife works great depending upon the depth of the cut. Otherwise a longer blade works fine. And a serrated bread knife works terrifically.

Does anyone imagine using the knife for some other purpose when they are finished?

How DO those construction workers do it???

geesh...

I can just imagine, if the fiberglass or rockwool doesn't kill you, the knife will! Anyone know of any 'safe' knives other than butter knives? Oh, and the mercury in the batteries of the electric carving knife! Those folks in Japan have it easy compared to the perils that constructors of absorptive panels face!

[btroberts]

Originally Posted by SAC

Everything is so melodramatic here.

Cutting fiberglass or rockwool is a very routine and simple process.

Use a sharp cheap knife.

A double sided razor carpet knife works great depending upon the depth of the cut. Otherwise a longer blade works fine. And a serrated bread knife works terrifically.

Does anyone imagine using the knife for some other purpose when they are finished?

How DO those construction workers do it???

geesh...

I can just imagine, if the fiberglass or rockwool doesn't kill you, the knife will! Anyone know of any 'safe' knives other than butter knives? Oh, and the mercury in the batteries of the electric carving knife! Those folks in Japan have it easy compared to the perils that constructors of absorptive panels face!

Lol, fair play.

[recordinghopkins]

Don't forget to empty your traps often, or they'll begin to overflow and you'll really have a mess on your hands. I don't think insurance covers bass floods.

ha! so here's the bottom line, minus the sarcasm and tongue in cheek wisecracks:

If it has a sharp edge, it'll cut rockwool or fiberglass. It's easy stuff.


OP: good lookin panels you've got there!

[jtbullet]

Agreed, I just did a trap yesterday. Kitchen knife went through it great, very precise cut too, due to the density of the stuff! In fact, i accidentally made my frame a little too small, so i put it on top of the 703, and used it as a cutting guide...it slid in perfectly tight!

[Torea]

Originally Posted by SAC

I can just imagine, if the fiberglass or rockwool doesn't kill you, the knife will! Anyone know of any 'safe' knives other than butter knives? Oh, and the mercury in the batteries of the electric carving knife!

For those who aren't allowed to use the big-boy knives