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Bass Traps that do just that!

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Old 25th March 2010   #31
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Power of ten

bwo you are wrecking heads here. cm is centimetre. Your plastic sheet is clearly one millimetre 1mm.
The sheet needs to be bonded to the fibre batt using Spraytac glue or similar.
The LF absorption bump is pretty broad.
DD
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Old 25th March 2010   #32
bwo
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Sorry for the confusing. Not sure what I was thinking. I meant 1-3 mm (millimeters) of course.
Will plastic (1-3 mm!) differ much from FRK when it comes to reflection of frequencies?
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Old 26th March 2010   #33
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FWIW, thin plastic is what is used on the front of Real Traps.

-R
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Old 26th March 2010   #34
bwo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RKrizman View Post
FWIW, thin plastic is what is used on the front of Real Traps.

-R
Aah. So the great secret is revealed.
My guess is that it works better then FRK when it comes to reflections of frequencies above bass then.
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Old 26th March 2010   #35
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Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by bwo View Post
So the great secret is revealed.
Not a secret at all. This video shows pretty much everything that goes into making our products:

Made in Connecticut

BTW, the plastic we use is very thin.

--Ethan
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Old 26th March 2010   #36
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How thin?

How thin Ethan? Less than 1 cm?
DD
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Old 26th March 2010   #37
bwo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethan Winer View Post
Not a secret at all. This video shows pretty much everything that goes into making our products:

Made in Connecticut

BTW, the plastic we use is very thin.

--Ethan
Great video! Too bad shipping to Norway is ridiculously high. Do you need a retailer in Norway?

You mentioned in the video that you use fiberglass that have four times higher quality then mineral wool. Can you eleborate?
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Old 26th March 2010   #38
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bwo,

those traps look pretty good.

if I were you, next time I'd just cut a sheet of plastic the size of the face, and spray tac it to it. don't bother with folding it around the edges. any high freq bouncing around in that 45 degree nook between the wall and the trap, you're gonna want to get rid of that anyway.
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Old 26th March 2010   #39
bwo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dykstraster@gmai View Post
bwo,

those traps look pretty good.

if I were you, next time I'd just cut a sheet of plastic the size of the face, and spray tac it to it. don't bother with folding it around the edges. any high freq bouncing around in that 45 degree nook between the wall and the trap, you're gonna want to get rid of that anyway.
Thanks for the advice. The way the pictures show are a very easy and a cheap way. They also become very light. I'm also considering building them with a visible frame. They will look better with a frame, but become much heavier.
What's the best way to tighten fabric and membrane if I build a frame? Use only spray tac/glue or tighten it with some plywood on the inside of the frame?
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Old 26th March 2010   #40
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Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by bwo View Post
Do you need a retailer in Norway?
How many do you think you can sell, and how little markup are you willing to accept?

Quote:
You mentioned in the video that you use fiberglass that have four times higher quality then mineral wool. Can you eleborate?
I said the 705 rigid fiberglass we use costs us four times more than mineral wool.

--Ethan
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Old 26th March 2010   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethan Winer View Post
How many do you think you can sell, and how little markup are you willing to accept?
As a humble Viking I'm willing to accept a very small percentage. A large portion of demo models are important though for a good sale.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethan Winer View Post
I said the 705 rigid fiberglass we use costs us four times more than mineral wool.

--Ethan
Perhaps you need a retailer that actually understands english. Hehe.
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Old 29th March 2010   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwo View Post
As a humble Viking I'm willing to accept a very small percentage. A large portion of demo models are important though for a good sale.



Perhaps you need a retailer that actually understands english. Hehe.
bwo:
I would be your fisrt customer!!
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