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#1
6th July 2007
Old 6th July 2007
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mounting acoustic panels

so in the next few weeks i am going to be building some acoustic panels using owens corning 703 and all that jazz.

i was wondering for people that have built these, how did you mount them in different spots? did you use wire and string them up or did you build brackets to mount them on?

any input would help a lot.
#2
6th July 2007
Old 6th July 2007
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I'll throw in a bump for ya'.

I'm going to do the same next month, provided I can find some time between sessions.

I've heard of measurement tables that will help select the appropriate distance from the wall and thickness of plywood underneath if you're thinking of using them as broadband absorbers.

There's a little info in Jeff Cooper's "Building A Recording Studio", but I'd like to see something more comprehensive, if anyone out there can make a reccomendation.
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6th July 2007
Old 6th July 2007
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I'm assuming you guys have taken a look at Ethan Winer's personal site as well as his company's site?

Ethan Winer's personal site with info about bass traps
http://www.ethanwiner.com/basstrap.html

RealTraps:
http://www.realtraps.com/howto.htm

Also, have a look at ReadyAcoustics stuff. If you're willing to spend a few bucks, the ReadyBags look like a great DIY alternative. For the ease of installation and finished look they're a pretty good value.

ReadyAcoustics ReadyBags:
http://www.readyacoustics.com/index....roducts&cat=10

ReadyAcoustics also has a section on their site that shows a really cool, inexpensive way to mount a panel.

Wall / Ceiling Mounting of Ready Acoustics panels:
http://www.readyacoustics.com/index....g&viewall=true
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6th July 2007
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i have seen the readyacoustics bags, but i am thinking of mounting these on plywood. i will definitely check out those other sites though.
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6th July 2007
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check out the ready acoustics stuff. you can buy the bags from them and put them together yourself. really easy and it came out cheaper than building my own. just humg them with string and zip ties. follow link to see pictures of finished product.
How should I treat this room?
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7th July 2007
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Dont mount them on plywood - build frames.

Also, with the open-backed frames, putting them across the corners will help smooth out the bass response of the room.



-tINY

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7th July 2007
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I built mine out of 1 x 4 pine and owens corning 703. SPI (just do a google search for SPI acoustics) sells 703 and 705 in 2 x 4 pre-cut panels. If you want to glue two together to make a 4 inch thick panel, you can just use liquid nails for foam board around the perimiter of the 703 and glue the two pieces toether back to back. Don't coat the panels with glue though, just around the edge.

Its best to hang them from the ceiling on wire (I used suspended ceiling wire at H.D.) and eyelet screws (also for suspended ceilings). Then you can space them off the wall, which will help your bass response. Mine are 4 inches thick and are 4 inches off the wall.

You can also find fabric on E-bay. Be careful with fabric through, you want something that you can blow through so sound will pass through as well. Some fabrics will be reflective, which defeats the whole purpose.

Good luck.
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#8
8th July 2007
Old 8th July 2007
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tINY is right on the money. Frames to keep things looking nice, no backs to allow them to absorb deeper. Address the corners where you can.

Bryan
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#9
8th July 2007
Old 8th July 2007
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6" 703 will has a sabins COA pretty flat down to 60hz. Burlap makes a great covering and is dirt cheap.

I mounted mine with a wood bracket 45 degree receiver screwed into the wall and a matching 45 mounted to the panel. The panels simply hang there and can be removed at any time by lifting. Here's a crude drawing.

dave
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#10
10th July 2007
Old 10th July 2007
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When building the frames, do you want the 703 to stick out just a bit so that the sound hits that first? and not the plywood frame?

Stupid question I know, but I want to make sure I'm getting the most out of my work.
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10th July 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gutsofgold View Post
When building the frames, do you want the 703 to stick out just a bit so that the sound hits that first? and not the plywood frame?

Stupid question I know, but I want to make sure I'm getting the most out of my work.
If you are talking about the side frames you really don't need to worry about that. You can cut holes in the sides to let more sound in if you want.

Glenn
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#12
10th July 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gutsofgold View Post
When building the frames, do you want the 703 to stick out just a bit so that the sound hits that first? and not the plywood frame?

Stupid question I know, but I want to make sure I'm getting the most out of my work.

A "reveal" (say, 2" sticking out on the front, away from the frame) might be really nice looking actually and will certainly add to your frontal (and perhaps side) absorption.

Nice idea, I like it!


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Ready Acoustics
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