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vitreouswindows · 9th November 2009

One frugal way to go is to purchase high quality drums (and/or vintage drums) that may have had a thing or two altered - this affects their perceived value (especially in the vintage market) but not how they perform musically. Cosmetics too can diminish a kit's value (mis-matched finishes, etc.) but not how it sounds. Make sure the bearing edges are good and that the drums are not out of round, that the lugs all function correctly, and then it's just about head selection and tuning.

Old-school heads/tuning would find Remo Ambassadors on tom (typically coated) and clear Diplomats on the bottom (for a heavier sound - coated Emperors on top and clear Ambassadors on the bottom) - but there are a plethora of options with heads. Tuning you might begin with tuning them appx. an interval of a third apart - the top head lower; or tune them about the same. Again, there are a host of tuning techniques that all work differently, though exploring them is often tedious for a non-drummer. Most drums have a range they enjoy - ie. too tight and they choke, too loose and they're drab - but with a little experimentation you'll find each drum's zone.

One of the better 'deals' on older kits would be Slingerland drums from the 70s - these were really well-made drums, but they're often not expensive on the used market. Gretsch can get expensive, as can Rogers, though they're often very nice kits (Gretsch round badge kits are pricey, and Rogers kits made in Dayton in the mid-to-late 60s are some of their nicest and not always priced much differently than other periods). Many of the Ludwigs after the 'Beatle boom' suffered from quality issues, but by the late-60s they were nice indeed (when Ludwig was sold to Selmer in the 80s there was a not-so-great stretch, but they rectified that and many of the current drums are excellent). There are many small makers that make fine drums as well, so many so that the choices make it complex to make a decision. Everything makes a difference, but head selection, tuning and the player have much to do with how a kit sounds; and for recording, the room plays a significant role in how it translates.

Best of luck with your search, and I'd encourage you to stay on the pathway of acoustic drums.

9th November 2009	#16
vitreouswindows Gear maniac Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 240	One frugal way to go is to purchase high quality drums (and/or vintage drums) that may have had a thing or two altered - this affects their perceived value (especially in the vintage market) but not how they perform musically. Cosmetics too can diminish a kit's value (mis-matched finishes, etc.) but not how it sounds. Make sure the bearing edges are good and that the drums are not out of round, that the lugs all function correctly, and then it's just about head selection and tuning. Old-school heads/tuning would find Remo Ambassadors on tom (typically coated) and clear Diplomats on the bottom (for a heavier sound - coated Emperors on top and clear Ambassadors on the bottom) - but there are a plethora of options with heads. Tuning you might begin with tuning them appx. an interval of a third apart - the top head lower; or tune them about the same. Again, there are a host of tuning techniques that all work differently, though exploring them is often tedious for a non-drummer. Most drums have a range they enjoy - ie. too tight and they choke, too loose and they're drab - but with a little experimentation you'll find each drum's zone. One of the better 'deals' on older kits would be Slingerland drums from the 70s - these were really well-made drums, but they're often not expensive on the used market. Gretsch can get expensive, as can Rogers, though they're often very nice kits (Gretsch round badge kits are pricey, and Rogers kits made in Dayton in the mid-to-late 60s are some of their nicest and not always priced much differently than other periods). Many of the Ludwigs after the 'Beatle boom' suffered from quality issues, but by the late-60s they were nice indeed (when Ludwig was sold to Selmer in the 80s there was a not-so-great stretch, but they rectified that and many of the current drums are excellent). There are many small makers that make fine drums as well, so many so that the choices make it complex to make a decision. Everything makes a difference, but head selection, tuning and the player have much to do with how a kit sounds; and for recording, the room plays a significant role in how it translates. Best of luck with your search, and I'd encourage you to stay on the pathway of acoustic drums.