Terry, you wrote:
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Originally Posted by terry j  I had a bit of a shock when you said you were going to stain it after assembly. Been there, done that. cause after staining comes finishing too. Made that mistake myself, so 'never again' is my catchcry. |
For sure, if you have the room to spread out about 200 fins, 200 faces, 32 frame members, stain 5 times with spray, while flipping each part, then drying without too much dust, and storing it all (and we do have rain here in the tropics!) ... You see the problem? As a unit, we are compact, easily maneuverable, and portable. That is we avoid the nightmare of hundreds of separate parts. And then, what if they get scratched in handling, what if you need to trim something?
The one issue is that white glue
occasionally gets on to a fin, and we're talking a little bit. What I really need is something (paint thinner doesn't work) to remove the glue drop and clean the wood. I'm just too lazy to research it! As we are using a dark stain with multiple coats I'll hope for the best.
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Originally Posted by terry j Re the glue, I ws only responding to some comments you had made, was not particularly recommending anything Yikes, 7kg of it!!! At least PVA is cheap. |
Gotcha. But for sure, something like liquid nails in a caulk tube would be perfect for dabbing the top/center/bottom of faces, I think. Yeah
7kg, and we're just a bit over half done. The cost is about $5.50 USD for a 3kg tub. It will pour if you coax it (from the tub to the squeeze bottle). Well it's working out fine. Except for the frame members, which are nailgunned together and the 2.5mm back, staplegunned to supports, the entire unit is glued. Nary a nail or screw to be found. It's all about white glue and $0.30 3cm plastic spreaders.
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Originally Posted by terry j I too noted the description in alton eversts book of the width of those diffusors and the corresponding depth. Mentioned it in my thread actually. [saw that] So I kinda agree with you, maybe at times we do get bogged down in the minutiae. looks kinda a strange way to go about it! A less wide diffusor sitting in front of a bank of 'deeper' diffusors. Heck, just design one to do it all! like a di or tri fractal haha. |
Yes, it's interesting to see the various creative solutions. That Italian studio looks to be in the multi-millions of $$$. A few years ago I was in on a mastering session at Capitol Records (in L.A.) with
Robert Vosgien -- the room was fairly small, and acoustically perfection (imho). Treatments were complex wall curves and partial stone walls (you can see part of the room
here) -- I've seen a number of stoneworks in older rooms (off topic, but on the topic of amazing rooms).
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Originally Posted by terry j Good find. Very much backs up Jasons comments on how (or at least one way) to implement the barker code. That is enough to 'settle' it for me. I accept that you may get even better performance by using a true inverse panel, but that is as close as I could expect as coming from the horses mouth, ie RPG. Am pretty certain almost that exact wording comes out of alton everest's book. And, as RPG seem to be the consultant in that book on matters diffusion, again a pretty reliable source on the face of it. |
Though I think Collo's point is that with a near symmetrical period, merely flipping it upside-down isn't going to create the 'opposite' (-1 to the +1) in Barker, right?