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Old 19th August 2009   #759
johndykstra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Moore View Post
A few questions to the DIY'ers:

Do your bass traps have to be filled to the corner?

If using panels for corner bass traps:
A) How thick should they be? B) Do you have to cover from floor to ceiling?

When using corner panels to cover areas where wall meets ceiling how thick should these panels be?

When using wall panels:
A) How thick should they be? B) should they be a certain distance from the wall or can they be flush?

Does anyone know what is inside Realtraps?

Also just to get a reaction. How much of a difference does using OC703 made panels make over using Auralex products?

Thanks and I'm looking forward to all of your answers,

Keith Moore
Must the bass traps fill the corner? no

the type that does fill the corner is typically called a "super chunk". Take a 2' x 4' sheet of rockwool or OC703 or OC705 and cut it in half (2' x2'). Now cut that sheet diagonally forming a 90 degree equalaterial triangle. repeat. Stack the sheets into a corner and cover with fabric. Keep in mind, with 2" thick product (typical), you will need 12 full sheets to make a single bass trap 8' tall.

re: panel "straddle type" bass traps

How thick should they be?
4" - 6" is typical, however, the thicker you can afford, fit, and manage, the better.

Do they need to run from floor to ceiling?
Short answer, no. But as with thickness the same answer applies, the more coverage the better.

re: wall panels

How thick should they be? 2" is typical, but as with bass traps... thicker = better

Should they be a certain distance from the wall or can they be flush? They can be flush, however an air gap, (generally not exceeding more than half the thickness of the panel), helps to lower the effected frequencies...but... thicker material will always trump air. Example:

2" thick flush to wall .... good
2" thick material with 1" of air gap .... better
3" thick flush to wall .... best
3" thick with 1" air gap ... better than best
4" thick material flush .... bester than best....etc....

Does anyone know what's inside Realtraps? yes

Difference between 703 and Auralex? significant, and this is speaking from experience with both products, in the same room. Clearly, night and day. A more interesting debate is that of Rockwool v 703 v 705... For me, it was a matter of cost. OC is so more expensive here, that while 703 would have out performed it on a sq. inch to sq. inch test, I could have only afforded half the material. Given that formula, Rockwool's 2" to 703's 1"... Rockwool wins. But generally speaking, Rockwool works good in traps that have an enclosed frame, because it is a bit more crumbly. 703 LOOKS better with exposed edges, because it holds it's shape a bit better. Speaking of frames...

Odds and Ends

Frames are purely for looks and mounting...they aren't even really necessary, and in fact, the less of your absorption you have touching a wooden or metal frame, the better it preforms.

Fabric is only for looks and keeping the absorption fibers encased. Breathability is the key here.

Sq. footage of coverage trumps cubic footage of thickness. Example:

you are better off with 16 linear feet of 4" thick traps, than you'd be with 8 linear feet of 8" thick traps

Anytime you take chunks of fiberglass or mineral wool insulation and stuff it into the corners and line the walls of your studio, it is going to make the room sound better than it did when it was bare or covered with foam. Period. The more material you can afford to buy, the better your results will be. Obviously, placing it willy nilly is not a good idea, hit the corners first (all 12 of them), hit the early refectioins at listening position, and sprinkle in some more on bare parellel surfaces, including the floor and ceiling if applicable (uncarpeted floor)
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