Quote:
Originally Posted by cleantone  As far as I know the gate is only used when you have the toggle in the "automatic" setting.
Also it is unbalanced but is configured to use balanced cables, in case anyone wanted to know.
I would be interested in seeing the dsub connectors you rigged up. Can you take a pic by chance? Or link to the parts you used?
I also realized last night that my splitters have 20db pads on a switch.
I still think I want a 3 way switch or variable resistors on a rack panel above the unit. |
The chances of me figuring out how to post a pic are slim. I'm a total noob with regards to posting attachments. But let me spell it out for you...
The dsub connector is a 15 pin connector available for 99 cents at Fry's etc. There are also matching metal cases to take the strain off the large cable that would usually be sprouting out of the back of these for remote control, or for other apps like printer cables etc. But since we're just jumping back into the unit, the case is for handling and protection. Kind of like a printer cable minus the cable. Just the molded end, except in metal. Nice and clean and secure.
The wiring is simple once you decipher the manual. (Page 17, bottom right hand corner) Each corner pin gets jumped to it's adjacent pin. Each corner pin corresponds to a pre in the four pre module. Then, the middle three pins on the shorter row get jumped together for ground. I used stranded wire with the three ends being soldered together. Taped it. Encased it. Marked it with resistor value and it's corresponding gain in dB.
So, 1+2, 7+8, 9+10, and 14+15, all get jumped with with either straight wire or a resistor, depending on your needs. 1 to 2, 7 to 8, etc. I used the 330 ohm for 25 dB of gain. 11+12+13 all get tied together for ground (obviously, no resistor here). I used stranded, insulated wire here and solder they're loose ends together and taped off.
1---------8
00000000
9-------15
0000000